Jake the SSnake Weight Weenie Analysis
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Jake the SSnake Weight Weenie Analysis
I generally try not to be a weight weenie, but the urge is there. This month two things came together: (1) I decided to build a singlespeed cyclocross bike, and (2) I bought a new scale. Obviously resistance is futile with that combination, so I just went with it. For the most part I didn't choose components on the basis of weight, but I did weigh everything, including the cables.
My bike didn't end up particularly light (by CX weight weenie standards), but it has been fun seeing where the weight is coming from. I thought I'd share. Feel free to ignore if you don't enjoy the ridiculousness of this project.
Let's start with the end product.
This is a 2013 Kona Jake the Snake frameset with an eccentric bottom bracket. As shown it weighs right around 19.1 pounds.
Whenever people on Bike Forums ask, "How can I make my bike lighter?," I typically respond with some comment about the weight being distributed all over the bike. While that's broadly true, it turns out there are a few obvious places even (maybe especially) in a simple build like this.
Here's the component breakdown.
[table="width: 500, class: grid"]
[tr]
[td]Component[/td]
[td]Choice[/td]
[td]Weight (g)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Frame[/td]
[td]Kona Race Light 7005[/td]
[td]1686[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Fork[/td]
[td]Kona Full Carbon CX[/td]
[td]549[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brake Levers[/td]
[td]SRAM S500[/td]
[td]270[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brakes[/td]
[td]Avid Shorty 6[/td]
[td]331[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Pedals[/td]
[td]Crank Brothers Egg Beater 2[/td]
[td]274[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Crankset[/td]
[td]FSA Gossamer w/ 39T Salsa chainring and BBG bashguard[/td]
[td]811[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Bottom Bracket[/td]
[td]Problem Solvers E46[/td]
[td]169[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Chain[/td]
[td]Shimano HG-50[/td]
[td]280[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Cog[/td]
[td]Forte 18T + spacers[/td]
[td]83[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Wheelset[/td]
[td]Ultegra/A23[/td]
[td]2022[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tires[/td]
[td]Michelin Mud2[/td]
[td]644[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tubes[/td]
[td]Bontrager 28/38[/td]
[td]251[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Saddle[/td]
[td]Specialized ATB[/td]
[td]337[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Seat Post[/td]
[td]Thomson Elite[/td]
[td]187[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Stem[/td]
[td]Ritchey Pro[/td]
[td]141[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Handlebar[/td]
[td]Salsa Bell Lap[/td]
[td]291[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Bar Tape[/td]
[td]SRAM SuperCork[/td]
[td]60[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Headset[/td]
[td]Cane Creek 40[/td]
[td]128[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brake Cables[/td]
[td]Jagwire Ripcord[/td]
[td]67[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Misc[/td]
[td]compression plug, cable hanger, spacers, etc.[/td]
[td]109[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
A few explanatory notes... The fork weight was with the uncut steerer. I ended up having around four inches cut off, so the actual weight there is a bit less. The wheelset weight includes skewers and rim tape. The frame weight includes eight accessory bolts and the lower cable guide.
Looking over this list confirms what you'd have probably guessed anyway. The biggest source of weight bloat here is the wheels. I could easily save a pound by getting lighter wheels, and another half pound or so if I switched to tubulars while I was at it.
I was a bit surprised how heavy the frame is (3.7 pounds), but the fork was a bit lighter than I expected. A full carbon frame could cut another pound.
Beyond that, I could maybe save another 100 grams each at the crankset and the saddle, and maybe 30 grams or so each from the chain, cog and compression plug.
I have no intention of doing most of that, but I could.
Yes, I have too much time on my hands.
My bike didn't end up particularly light (by CX weight weenie standards), but it has been fun seeing where the weight is coming from. I thought I'd share. Feel free to ignore if you don't enjoy the ridiculousness of this project.
Let's start with the end product.
This is a 2013 Kona Jake the Snake frameset with an eccentric bottom bracket. As shown it weighs right around 19.1 pounds.
Whenever people on Bike Forums ask, "How can I make my bike lighter?," I typically respond with some comment about the weight being distributed all over the bike. While that's broadly true, it turns out there are a few obvious places even (maybe especially) in a simple build like this.
Here's the component breakdown.
[table="width: 500, class: grid"]
[tr]
[td]Component[/td]
[td]Choice[/td]
[td]Weight (g)[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Frame[/td]
[td]Kona Race Light 7005[/td]
[td]1686[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Fork[/td]
[td]Kona Full Carbon CX[/td]
[td]549[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brake Levers[/td]
[td]SRAM S500[/td]
[td]270[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brakes[/td]
[td]Avid Shorty 6[/td]
[td]331[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Pedals[/td]
[td]Crank Brothers Egg Beater 2[/td]
[td]274[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Crankset[/td]
[td]FSA Gossamer w/ 39T Salsa chainring and BBG bashguard[/td]
[td]811[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Bottom Bracket[/td]
[td]Problem Solvers E46[/td]
[td]169[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Chain[/td]
[td]Shimano HG-50[/td]
[td]280[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Cog[/td]
[td]Forte 18T + spacers[/td]
[td]83[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Wheelset[/td]
[td]Ultegra/A23[/td]
[td]2022[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tires[/td]
[td]Michelin Mud2[/td]
[td]644[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Tubes[/td]
[td]Bontrager 28/38[/td]
[td]251[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Saddle[/td]
[td]Specialized ATB[/td]
[td]337[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Seat Post[/td]
[td]Thomson Elite[/td]
[td]187[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Stem[/td]
[td]Ritchey Pro[/td]
[td]141[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Handlebar[/td]
[td]Salsa Bell Lap[/td]
[td]291[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Bar Tape[/td]
[td]SRAM SuperCork[/td]
[td]60[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Headset[/td]
[td]Cane Creek 40[/td]
[td]128[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Brake Cables[/td]
[td]Jagwire Ripcord[/td]
[td]67[/td]
[/tr]
[tr]
[td]Misc[/td]
[td]compression plug, cable hanger, spacers, etc.[/td]
[td]109[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
A few explanatory notes... The fork weight was with the uncut steerer. I ended up having around four inches cut off, so the actual weight there is a bit less. The wheelset weight includes skewers and rim tape. The frame weight includes eight accessory bolts and the lower cable guide.
Looking over this list confirms what you'd have probably guessed anyway. The biggest source of weight bloat here is the wheels. I could easily save a pound by getting lighter wheels, and another half pound or so if I switched to tubulars while I was at it.
I was a bit surprised how heavy the frame is (3.7 pounds), but the fork was a bit lighter than I expected. A full carbon frame could cut another pound.
Beyond that, I could maybe save another 100 grams each at the crankset and the saddle, and maybe 30 grams or so each from the chain, cog and compression plug.
I have no intention of doing most of that, but I could.
Yes, I have too much time on my hands.
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Very nice build.
Here's my opinionator: Why bashguard? Surly stainless steel ring and cog is money and weight well spent. For my SS 29er I went the tensioner route (Soulcraft Convert) and highly recommend (if you ever have problems with your EBB). Chain tension looks spot on, with a bit of sag.
Here's my opinionator: Why bashguard? Surly stainless steel ring and cog is money and weight well spent. For my SS 29er I went the tensioner route (Soulcraft Convert) and highly recommend (if you ever have problems with your EBB). Chain tension looks spot on, with a bit of sag.
#5
Riding like its 1990
On my limited budget I have acquired used goodies for my 2000 Redline Conquest Team Scandium that I consider my weight weenie build: CF crank, light FSA Wing bars, light stem, CF fork, CF seatpost, race type saddle, but the real difference is always the wheels. I dont have light wheels but one set is light-er than my OpenPro/Ultegra wheelset and with 25c tires I notice a difference. I have considered an eccentric rear hub to make it SS.
Other than that its all vanity... or maybe every single thing is vanity...
Building a vintage SSCX/commuter on a '83 Univega Gran Turismo frame now... not lightweight
Other than that its all vanity... or maybe every single thing is vanity...
Building a vintage SSCX/commuter on a '83 Univega Gran Turismo frame now... not lightweight
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I'm using a triple crankset for chainline and convenience reasons. I intend to build a set of wheels with All City's 130mm flip-flop hubs, and those have a 45mm chainline, which exactly matches the middle ring on the triple that I had on the parts shelf anyway. So the bashguard is there to occupy the outer chainring spot. It only weighs about 30 grams. I also think it looks good. I suppose if I used a compact double the outer ring position would probably be close enough to work. If I wanted to go full weight weenie I could grind the granny gear posts off of my crank, but I'm not yet hopeless enough to ruin a perfectly good crank to save 50 grams.
The Salsa ring I have on there now is aluminum. If it wears out quickly I may switch to steel. The cog I've got is absurdly cheap, in the worst ways. I planned on getting a Surly or maybe even Chris King once I have a better idea what gearing combinations will work for me.
I raced it Wednesday night at Alpenrose (mostly flat, just a couple of gradual climbs). I spun it out in one place (long paved stretch) and my legs were aching on the longest incline by the last lap, so I figure that's about right for that course.
The EBB gave me no trouble in this first race and it's very easy to adjust.
My geared CX race bike is a 2008 scandium Major Jake. With gears and similarly heavy wheels it only weighs about half a pound more than this one.
I've got a 2013 Jake with an aluminum fork that I use for commuting. With fat tires (I'm using 700x35 Marathon Supremes) it doesn't seem to be a big deal, though most of my commute is on pretty good pavement. That said, I do have a Whiskey 7 carbon fork for it on my wish list. If I can get somebody to buy my LeMond, I'll probably use the proceeds for that.
The Salsa ring I have on there now is aluminum. If it wears out quickly I may switch to steel. The cog I've got is absurdly cheap, in the worst ways. I planned on getting a Surly or maybe even Chris King once I have a better idea what gearing combinations will work for me.
I raced it Wednesday night at Alpenrose (mostly flat, just a couple of gradual climbs). I spun it out in one place (long paved stretch) and my legs were aching on the longest incline by the last lap, so I figure that's about right for that course.
The EBB gave me no trouble in this first race and it's very easy to adjust.
I've got a 2013 Jake with an aluminum fork that I use for commuting. With fat tires (I'm using 700x35 Marathon Supremes) it doesn't seem to be a big deal, though most of my commute is on pretty good pavement. That said, I do have a Whiskey 7 carbon fork for it on my wish list. If I can get somebody to buy my LeMond, I'll probably use the proceeds for that.
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That's my setup ... I commute on mine too (wanted to race this year but it's just not in the cards), one year older than yours but just bought it on clearance earlier this summer
My commute has some iffy spots, some rough patches on a MUP and some sketchy roads, so the CF fork could mitigate some "buzz" in my hands (24 mile round trip). I'm running 700X35 Kenda Kwick Tendrils and I'm pleased with them for the most part, just know from experience a CF fork would be a nice to have
My commute has some iffy spots, some rough patches on a MUP and some sketchy roads, so the CF fork could mitigate some "buzz" in my hands (24 mile round trip). I'm running 700X35 Kenda Kwick Tendrils and I'm pleased with them for the most part, just know from experience a CF fork would be a nice to have
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So true. I came across a "tip" recently that suggested you could save weight by removing the compression plug after adjusting the headset and tightening your stem.
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No way! The bars would weigh like 0.00000000000001% more down low like that.
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Cool bike. I've been thinking of building up something a little more weenie for singlespeeding on next year. Curious how the EBB works out.
Definitely go tubular if you have the patience. You don't have to go carbon or low spoke count to drop significant weight.
Definitely go tubular if you have the patience. You don't have to go carbon or low spoke count to drop significant weight.
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Very nice set up. Actually, a sub 20lb bike is pretty light by Cyclocross standards. My rig is 20.5lbs - I shaved off a full pound by going to the Velocity 23mm wheels/hubs (28 spoke) from an older pair. The difference in climbing was very noticeable.
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Oh sure, by normal across-the-board CX bike standards this thing is pretty light. But by CX weight weenie standards, it's a pig.
References:
https://plusonelap.blogspot.com/searc...l/Weight%20Tip
https://www.cxmagazine.com/cyclocross...ll-sample-data
References:
https://plusonelap.blogspot.com/searc...l/Weight%20Tip
https://www.cxmagazine.com/cyclocross...ll-sample-data
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Little bummed after reading this. Im switching to a 2014 Jake the Snake from a 2012 Crux only so I can race for a bike shop that I really love. I was hoping these Jake's wouldnt be this heavy, especially since the 2014 Jake the Snake is disc making it even heavier.
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Seriously though, I just read something claiming that a 2012 Crux E5 frameset weighed 2586 grams (or 2640 for the disc version). If those numbers are accurate, the 2013 Jake the Snake frameset comes in over three quarters of a pound lighter than the non-disc version. More likely those figures for the Crux include the bottom bracket or seatpost or both.
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Haha the Super Jake is way way more.
My Crux Expert is 18.13 without pedals and 18.9 with Shimano M540's. It also has Mavic Ksyrium Elites. Magnesium TRP EuroX's as well as a carbon seat post and stem. With full 105 drive train. Oh well im sure Ill upgrade the Jake the Snakes wheelset eventually.
My Crux Expert is 18.13 without pedals and 18.9 with Shimano M540's. It also has Mavic Ksyrium Elites. Magnesium TRP EuroX's as well as a carbon seat post and stem. With full 105 drive train. Oh well im sure Ill upgrade the Jake the Snakes wheelset eventually.
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Yeah, bear in mind that I've got like 6.5 pounds just in my wheels, tires and tubes.
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