Advice on steel 1x10 from scratch
#1
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Advice on steel 1x10 from scratch
Last week, my 2006 Cross Check was stolen. It was a 2x9 with 105 derailleurs and STI, Ritchey Pro cranks, XT hubs and Salsa Delgado rims. It was my first real bike. I loved it and it served me well. Now I need to replace it. I’m already talking to my LBS, but I thought I’d look for input here as well.
I think I want to build a steel 1x10. I'll be using it to commute, get around town, and ride the occasional New Mexico trail or singletrack.
I’m 6’5” and 170 lbs. Here’s what I’m thinking so far:
Any ideas about a wheelset? I’m looking for something mid-range on durability and weight that doesn’t break the bank.
Thanks in advance.
I think I want to build a steel 1x10. I'll be using it to commute, get around town, and ride the occasional New Mexico trail or singletrack.
I’m 6’5” and 170 lbs. Here’s what I’m thinking so far:
- Surly Cross Check frame and fork, 60 cm
- Sram Rival compact double cranks, 180 mm
- Wolf Tooth cyclocross chainring, 38T
- Sram X7 Type 2 rear derailleur, mid cage
- Sram 11-36T mountain cassette
- [strike]Retroshift CX1 shift levers[/strike] (removed due to compatibility comments below)
- Sram Rival shift lever on the right, 900 single-speed brake lever on left
Any ideas about a wheelset? I’m looking for something mid-range on durability and weight that doesn’t break the bank.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by tallest; 04-14-14 at 12:03 PM. Reason: adjusted due to comments below
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New Mexico, besides being beautiful, has more than a few mountains. Why 1 x 10 say rather than 2 x 9, 10, 11 etc.?
#3
cowboy, steel horse, etc
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I'd go with 11-42 cassette, myself.
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Maybe I am just following the latest trend in wanting to build a 1x. I liked the idea and I'm not ashamed to say it's partially just because it sounds nifty. I don't think I'm losing much range if I go with a mountain cassette, but I'm certainly increasing the step between consecutive gears.
[edit] An 11-42T even more so. [/edit]
[edit] An 11-42T even more so. [/edit]
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I don't think Retroshift has a Sram version just yet. But you could easily substitute a Shimano rear der and it would work fine.
Look at the All-City Macho Man, too. It comes both as full bike and frameset. Soma Double Cross another option.
Look at the All-City Macho Man, too. It comes both as full bike and frameset. Soma Double Cross another option.
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Sorry to hear your bike got stolen.
if you go 1x10 is it a hassle to switch to a double crank and add a front derailleur if you change your mind? If you can afford to change later, I think giving it a shot is a good idea.
i once bought a singlespeed and found that I really liked the fit of the frame and wanted to go further on the bike...but was limited on the hills. So I later added the gearing as the fame had the bosses, etc. good to have options and try new things.
if you go 1x10 is it a hassle to switch to a double crank and add a front derailleur if you change your mind? If you can afford to change later, I think giving it a shot is a good idea.
i once bought a singlespeed and found that I really liked the fit of the frame and wanted to go further on the bike...but was limited on the hills. So I later added the gearing as the fame had the bosses, etc. good to have options and try new things.
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I do worry that the chainring alignment won't be great with the double crankset though.
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#10
just keep riding
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You can use a 9 speed XT Shadow rear derailleur, but not the newer 10 speed Dynasis type. The 9 speed is compatible with Shimano 10 speed road shifters, the 10 speed Mtn stuff from Shimano uses a different pull ratio and requires 10 speed Mtn shifters.
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I'd send Retroshift an e-mail explaining what you want to do. They're not too big to offer individual support yet, and I know they're interested to hear about what people want to do with their products.
FWIW, I know there are some people around here racing 1x10 with Wolf Tooth rings and Retroshift BURD derailleurs who report good results.
FWIW, I know there are some people around here racing 1x10 with Wolf Tooth rings and Retroshift BURD derailleurs who report good results.
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#13
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Doesnt SRAM have a 10 speed bar end shifter ? AFAIK retroshift uses bar end shifters .
Seems Gravel grinders want to ride the hills , CX racers would run the hill, if it's faster..
Seems Gravel grinders want to ride the hills , CX racers would run the hill, if it's faster..
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Retroshift does not support attaching SRAM shifters yet, but they say it's on their to-do list. I like the Burd derailleurs, but they're currently out of stock. Plus, if I can I'd like to run a mountain cassette.
I think my new plan is to stick with the Sram X7 derailleur and pick up [strike]some[/strike] a Sram shift lever[strike]s[/strike].
Thanks for all of your help so far. You've been very helpful. Can anyone recommend a hub and/or rim? I was considering an XT hub, but I have no idea about rims. I'd be glad to hear about recommendations for either.
I think my new plan is to stick with the Sram X7 derailleur and pick up [strike]some[/strike] a Sram shift lever[strike]s[/strike].
Thanks for all of your help so far. You've been very helpful. Can anyone recommend a hub and/or rim? I was considering an XT hub, but I have no idea about rims. I'd be glad to hear about recommendations for either.
Last edited by tallest; 04-14-14 at 07:58 AM.
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I'm setting up my new CX bike 1x10. Before going 1xN, make sure to think about how you want to use the bike. 1xN works well for CX racing because you generally don't need a huge gear range. Really low "granny gear" stuff you just hop off and run. Fast straights are few, and usually short enough only the pros can take advantage of big gear inch ratios. So an 11-28T with a 38 to 44T chainring (depending on your strength and typical course) and you're set. It turns out that this setup is also not bad for road use in non-mountainous areas.
MTB 1xN setups will use a wider range cassette and a smaller chainring. This means bigger jumps between gears and a lower top-end, but that's not a huge concern when mountain biking. On the road, big jumps between gears can be really frustrating. And your 38-11 combo is going to need a 110 cadence to hit 30 MPH. Maybe not a big deal for commuting; could be more of a concern for training or group rides. No harm giving it a try, but understand the compromises.
MTB 1xN setups will use a wider range cassette and a smaller chainring. This means bigger jumps between gears and a lower top-end, but that's not a huge concern when mountain biking. On the road, big jumps between gears can be really frustrating. And your 38-11 combo is going to need a 110 cadence to hit 30 MPH. Maybe not a big deal for commuting; could be more of a concern for training or group rides. No harm giving it a try, but understand the compromises.
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Thanks for the warning. Everyone's been very helpful so far. I realize that I'll be putting my bike in an odd place, especially on the road.
The spacing between gears will be annoying for extended rides on road and my top speed is certainly limited. I'm becoming more aware of the compromises and aware that I may change my mind and need to switch back to the original chainrings and buy a left shift lever, new cassette, and front derailleur (probably a longer cage rear derailleur too). I'm willing to take the risk.
The spacing between gears will be annoying for extended rides on road and my top speed is certainly limited. I'm becoming more aware of the compromises and aware that I may change my mind and need to switch back to the original chainrings and buy a left shift lever, new cassette, and front derailleur (probably a longer cage rear derailleur too). I'm willing to take the risk.
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I'm running a Rival rear shifter with an X9 Type 2 short cage, 11-36 cassette and a 40t RaceFace Narrow/Wide chainring. My drivetrain is silent. In your case, the Wolftooth ring and rear derailleur will be enough to keep the chain on. You could drop to a short cage, but I'm not sure about the availability of the X7 type 2 in that config. If you decide to add a front derailleur later however, you'll be fine with a medium cage.
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Using the FSA Omega PF30 crank that came stock. Removed the double chainrings (compact) and swapped the Narrow/Wide into the outer position. Chainline is less than perfect down around the 11 and 13t cogs on the cassette (still looking into this), fine through the midrange and about as good as it can be near the upper 36t.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
#20
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Can anyone recommend a hub and/or rim?
and low enough cost that if you crash and damage the wheel , you go and buy another one , No BFD.
and just get on with riding the bike ..
or a fancy premium parts hand built wheel ..
#21
Riding like its 1990
left off a few details: Are you planning to ever run it single speed? Are you looking to go huge fatty size tires?
Any interest in disc wheels in the future?
I sold my cross check and then wanted it back. I then found a deal on a SOMA Double Cross disc. I still have cantilevers on it but it fits fat 'enough' tires, the rear dropouts are vertical for easier fender use and no risk of pulling a wheel on rough stuff, discs for the future and 29er wheels that will swap with my MTB for ease of use...
Light, responsive, comfortable. I really like it. I rode on some things that shouldn't have been ridden on 32s and it was great.
Any interest in disc wheels in the future?
I sold my cross check and then wanted it back. I then found a deal on a SOMA Double Cross disc. I still have cantilevers on it but it fits fat 'enough' tires, the rear dropouts are vertical for easier fender use and no risk of pulling a wheel on rough stuff, discs for the future and 29er wheels that will swap with my MTB for ease of use...
Light, responsive, comfortable. I really like it. I rode on some things that shouldn't have been ridden on 32s and it was great.
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I did run 32s most of the time on my old Cross Check, but I like the ability to run something bigger if I'm planning for the possibility of sand. It's pretty much this reason that I've chosen the Surly. I don't know of anything else like it with as much clearance for tires.
#23
Riding like its 1990
Soma can do 38 but without fenders i think. my 32 fit fine with feners.
But the CC can fit stooopid fatties
I'd love to see just the frame from this one as its a knockoff of the CC and complete for $369 free shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicy.../dp/B00ET962N2
But the CC can fit stooopid fatties
I'd love to see just the frame from this one as its a knockoff of the CC and complete for $369 free shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicy.../dp/B00ET962N2
Last edited by thenomad; 04-15-14 at 10:15 PM.
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Well, it's done. Some inexpensive (slightly blemished) Velocity A23s, a Gary bar, and a few other components in addition to the ones above. I tried to remove as many logos as possible and I'm pretty happy with the results.
The photos below aren't the greatest, but you get the general idea.
Thanks for all the help. I couldn't be more pleased with my new bike.
The photos below aren't the greatest, but you get the general idea.
Thanks for all the help. I couldn't be more pleased with my new bike.