toe-clip overlap
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5
Bikes: Trek 6500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
toe-clip overlap
I have been riding a Trek 6500 for years. I just got a Jamis Nova, which I love. Question: Is toe-clip overlap common? On a turn my toe hit the wheel and it startled me, never had that happen before. I'm 5'10" and it's a 53. The fit feels excellent except for this overlap. Is it something I'm supposed to accept and adjust to or is it bad. I mean, it seems like it could be very dangerous. The Dealer said, "just adjust." Comments?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
In the UK, toe clip overlap is not permitted on manufactured bikes (but is on custom bikes).
For fast road racing it is not a problem,since you can't rotate the bars that much at speed. For controling the bike at slower speeds it is a problem. It is difficult to do track stands and slow technical sections with overlap, and it prevents you from fitting fenders.
The 53cm Nova frame has a 53cm top tube, and 73.5 head tube angle. This is pretty standard geometry, so it may not be built to those specs. It could be that they have just raised the bottom bracket from their standard road bike without figuring out the consequences, which is a stupid thing to do.
What size cranks are you riding and what shoe size are you? Are you using clipless pedals (properly positioned?) or toe-clips (what size?)
Check out the US consumer legislation and get this sorted out. There is no excuse for it on a mid-sized bike.
Let us know how you get on.
For fast road racing it is not a problem,since you can't rotate the bars that much at speed. For controling the bike at slower speeds it is a problem. It is difficult to do track stands and slow technical sections with overlap, and it prevents you from fitting fenders.
The 53cm Nova frame has a 53cm top tube, and 73.5 head tube angle. This is pretty standard geometry, so it may not be built to those specs. It could be that they have just raised the bottom bracket from their standard road bike without figuring out the consequences, which is a stupid thing to do.
What size cranks are you riding and what shoe size are you? Are you using clipless pedals (properly positioned?) or toe-clips (what size?)
Check out the US consumer legislation and get this sorted out. There is no excuse for it on a mid-sized bike.
Let us know how you get on.
Last edited by MichaelW; 07-05-02 at 06:00 PM.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
You may want to check the rake of your fork. If it is a 40, you might consider a 43 or 45 which puts the wheel a little further away from the frame. Steering won't be as quick though.
__________________
ljbike
ljbike
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5
Bikes: Trek 6500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks MichaelW and Ijbike,
Serious spec/geo is new to me - but let me give it a shot.
*It's a Shimano Tiagra Double Crankset - FC-4400.
*I'm using clipless pedals, my shoes are size 43 - I wonder if a different shoe would help... I got Specialized's Rockhopper, kinda bulky...
*not sure how to determine the rake of the fork... ?
Serious spec/geo is new to me - but let me give it a shot.
*It's a Shimano Tiagra Double Crankset - FC-4400.
*I'm using clipless pedals, my shoes are size 43 - I wonder if a different shoe would help... I got Specialized's Rockhopper, kinda bulky...
*not sure how to determine the rake of the fork... ?
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,049
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
The rake is the amount of curve at the bottom of the fork. You might find it listed on the spec sheet for your bike. Some forks have more curve than others. The more curve, the further the wheel is from the frame and hence more toe clearence.
I don't think changing shoes will help.
I don't think changing shoes will help.
__________________
ljbike
ljbike
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: England
Posts: 12,948
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 7 Times
in
7 Posts
Average shoe size should fit OK
The crank specs that matter are the length from the axle centre to the pedal centre, 170mm is the standard size, but sometimes up to 175mm.
Either should fit.
It may be that the angle of the head-tube is too steep (ie the frame is bad). More probable that the fork is wrong. Rake is the offset from the steering axis generated by bending the fork blades. Usually the wheel is placed a few cm forward of the steering axis, the exact amount varying. Too little rake and you may get interference.
Something is wrong and needs to be put right, so dont accept the bike shops excuse.
The crank specs that matter are the length from the axle centre to the pedal centre, 170mm is the standard size, but sometimes up to 175mm.
Either should fit.
It may be that the angle of the head-tube is too steep (ie the frame is bad). More probable that the fork is wrong. Rake is the offset from the steering axis generated by bending the fork blades. Usually the wheel is placed a few cm forward of the steering axis, the exact amount varying. Too little rake and you may get interference.
Something is wrong and needs to be put right, so dont accept the bike shops excuse.
#8
Oh God, He's back!
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 1,021
Bikes: Paramount
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have an older Paramount with the same thing. I have to pay close attention when manuvering at slow speeds that my toes don't get trapped between wheel and frame.
But lord, is that old bike quick. At speed it can still turn on a dime and get me out of places that I had rather not be. In the group rides I can go around the pothole and not disturb the riders beside me.
But lord, is that old bike quick. At speed it can still turn on a dime and get me out of places that I had rather not be. In the group rides I can go around the pothole and not disturb the riders beside me.
__________________
I can't ride and Frown!
I can't ride and Frown!
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Chicago
Posts: 5
Bikes: Trek 6500
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies,
I'm going back to see if I can find a similar bike with a better frame (longer top tube)
I'm going back to see if I can find a similar bike with a better frame (longer top tube)