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  1. #1
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    so i splurged and bought a 200 dollar bike

    I know alot of you guys suggested buying a 500 dollar used bike but i had to use best judgment here. So i went ahead and bought a 200 dollar 18" olpran aluminum bike, with some nice starter features to it. Only thing now i need is to mount the new seat i just ordered since the stock one is disastrously uncomfortable, and find a kick stand. But im not sure where to look, i suppose i could prowl around walmart for a universal one unless you guys have another suggestion.

    * Frame: 6061 Aluminum With Replaceable Dropout
    * Fork: Rigid
    * Wheels: Alloy Quick Release Front and Rear
    * Freewheel: Shimano MF-T07, 14/28T 7 Speed
    * Shifters: Shimano RevoShift 21 Speed
    * Brakes: Linear Pull
    * Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-TZ30
    * Rear Derailleur: Shimano Tourney
    * Cranks: Prowheel Black 170mm, 42/34/24T
    * Pedals: 9/16 with Boron axle/Steel cage
    * Bottom Bracket: Cartridge
    * Tires: Innova 26"x1.95"




    just got done putting it together, and it rides great. were gona be takin the bike path in our town for riding on weekends so i didnt need anything fancy. My brother is using my dads 10 year old huffy, i got on that thing last week and was like hell no, it was so uncomfortable and rode like crap.

    heres the seat i just ordered



    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...egory_ID=10051



  2. #2
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    Congrats! Now ride it like you stole it!
    Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you're probably right

  3. #3
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    oh yeh i have, and its been raining all day so... :rofl: curious question though, is it better if the seat is higher then the handlebars or lower, im not sure what the best position is.

  4. #4
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    went down to walmart and bought a universal kickstand for 4 bucks







  5. #5
    Rabbit Habbit! Jerry in So IL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spawne32 View Post
    oh yeh i have, and its been raining all day so... :rofl: curious question though, is it better if the seat is higher then the handlebars or lower, im not sure what the best position is.

    Depends on how you want to ride. If the seat is higher, then you might be in a more agressive riding position with your body weight more forward and you are in more of a racing position. If the seat is lower, you might be in a more relaxed and upright riding position.

    Nice bike BTW! I love buying used.

    Jerry
    I'll be needing that for squirels and such....

  6. #6
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    I am looking at your Buell Cyclone, I used to have one till a girl pulled out in front of me, loved that bike. Christian

  7. #7
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    I'm not a fan of kickstands, but since you have one, be careful clamping it to the aluminum frame. It's VERY easy to tighten it too much and collapse a tube. You might also consider taking it off and putting a few wraps of tape around the stays to protect them--if you nick that aluminum, you'll create a stress riser that may fail eventually.
    In the picture you posted, the seat is set with the nose up quite a bit. Have you tried leveling it out? I know I couldn't ride 10 feet with it set the way it is. And at least for me, the saddle you ordered probably wouldn't help. Soft, padded seats feel fine in the garage, but they rub and chafe after just a few miles. Probably OK if you're not going to spend more than half an hour at a time on the bike, though.
    Finally, the seat-vs.-handlebars question should always be resolved in favor of the seat: Adjust the saddle height so you have the correct leg extension when you're riding, no matter where that is in relation to the bars. Once that's done, then you can fiddle with the stem to get the bars where you want them. That's a quill stem, so you have more latitude than you would with a threadless one. My preference is to have the bars level with the saddle or slightly above, but many people like them an inch or more lower. There's no one right way.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hartness53 View Post
    I am looking at your Buell Cyclone, I used to have one till a girl pulled out in front of me, loved that bike. Christian

    lol thats my little brothers buell blast actually, hes already almost gotten hit 3 times, and hes only been riding one month, im actually lookin at a harley 883 or a XR1200

  9. #9
    Ben totoroben's Avatar
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    The bicycle looks much slimmer when stacked against the motorcycle. We could draw a parallel here.

  10. #10
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    took it out for its first ride today on the bike path by my friends house, front wheel was out of true so i went and bought a tool for the spokes and aligned it up, much better now, not perfect, but this is a science im still getting used to. The brakes are bothering me immensely, they are litterally hovering right over the rim and you have to pull the handle all the way to the bar still, i cant really pull the cable any tighter. So much that the left side doesnt move barely at all, its mostly all the right. I need to look up how to adjust these better and fix it. We hit some water on the trail too and i got it all over my brand new hoodie right up my back :rofl: so i ordered a rear fender for it.

    SKS X-Blade Rear Bicycle Fender



  11. #11
    His Brain is Gone! Tom Bombadil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spawne32 View Post
    oh yeh i have, and its been raining all day so... :rofl: curious question though, is it better if the seat is higher then the handlebars or lower, im not sure what the best position is.
    The best (and should be only position) for your seat is exactly where it allows your legs to achieve the optimum knee angle as you pedal.

    http://bicycletutor.com/adjust-seat/

    Then you can decide the height of your handlebars, or at least where your hand grip position is, by altering the stem and/or changing out the stock handlebars for ones that are taller or flatter.
    "Too often I would hear men boast of the miles covered that day, rarely of what they had seen." Louis L'Amour

    There are two types of road bikers: bikers who are faster than me, and me. Bruce Cameron - Denver Post

  12. #12
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    Congratulations on the bike purchase. Nice looking bike. I was looking at the Tomahawk, and Patriot models before buying my KHS. Since I only use mine for commuting I was told I didn't need a MTB so I chose a comfort bike instead. However, the blue Patriot was what I was going to buy had I not bought the KHS. Hope you have a great time riding it.
    Jim

    2008 KHS TC-150

  13. #13
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    Just curious - how are the Frame dropouts replaceable? They look welded on to me.

    +1 on the seat height needing to be correct with the leg position, then adjust the handlebars if you can, or get a different quill stem.

    The brakes have an adjustment barrel by the brake levers as shown in your picture. I may not understand your statement "they are litterally hovering right over the rim", however. If I did understand, try loosening the nut and then the barrel can be rotated out to take some of the slack out of the cable, then retighten the nut.

  14. #14
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    Park V-brake maintenance

    Sounds like the bike can get you where your going. But like many xmart bikes, they are not put together very well and need alot of adjustment.

    If it gets to be too much, you can take it to your LBS to have them adjust everything. It may cost you $100 or more but you'll know it will be done right (in most cases). One reason LBS's can be the way to go for bike purchases.

  15. #15
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    "It's VERY easy to tighten it too much and collapse a tube. You might also consider taking it off and putting a few wraps of tape around the stays to protect them--if you nick that aluminum, you'll create a stress riser that may fail eventually."

    this is over-reacting. this frame is not an uber-light thinwalled racing frame. the tubing is straight gauge, and is quite robust. this frame will last longer than most would ride it.

    to the OP, enjoy your bike. ride it. you have already began to conquor the art of bicycle matainence. may i suggest getting a good book on the subject, such as "zinn and the art of mountain bike matainence". if not, become very framiliar with sheldon brown's website. I learned 70% of what i know from those two sources. the other 30% was by my learning as a kid.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by droptop View Post
    "It's VERY easy to tighten it too much and collapse a tube. You might also consider taking it off and putting a few wraps of tape around the stays to protect them--if you nick that aluminum, you'll create a stress riser that may fail eventually."

    this is over-reacting. this frame is not an uber-light thinwalled racing frame. the tubing is straight gauge, and is quite robust. this frame will last longer than most would ride it.

    to the OP, enjoy your bike. ride it. you have already began to conquor the art of bicycle matainence. may i suggest getting a good book on the subject, such as "zinn and the art of mountain bike matainence". if not, become very framiliar with sheldon brown's website. I learned 70% of what i know from those two sources. the other 30% was by my learning as a kid.
    yeh ive never even heard of collapsing tubes lol the brakes i did finally get adjusted to my liking but for all intents and purposes, im not to fond of the type of levers its using or how the front is functioning. Im not sure about the replacable drop outs...quite frankily i dont really know what that is. lol the bike rides great compared to the xmart bikes ive had and seen, with the exception of a few minor adjustments that needed to be made. There is room for improvement but for 200 bucks i think i have a good starting platform for some mods down the road. Over the summer i may consider buying new brakes and levers, and taking those wheels to get trued professionally. And maybe some different tires as well, we shall see how these ride for the time being.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spawne32 View Post
    yeh ive never even heard of collapsing tubes lol the brakes i did finally get adjusted to my liking but for all intents and purposes, im not to fond of the type of levers its using or how the front is functioning. Im not sure about the replacable drop outs...quite frankily i dont really know what that is. lol the bike rides great compared to the xmart bikes ive had and seen, with the exception of a few minor adjustments that needed to be made. There is room for improvement but for 200 bucks i think i have a good starting platform for some mods down the road. Over the summer i may consider buying new brakes and levers, and taking those wheels to get trued professionally. And maybe some different tires as well, we shall see how these ride for the time being.
    Don't go too far down the upgrade path. It is almost always cheaper to buy a bicycle equipped as you like than to try upgrading.

  18. #18
    Recreational/Utility bjjoondo's Avatar
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    Do yourself a HUGE favor, take the bike to a good LBS and have them do a Tune-Up service, I know it hurt's the macho attitude and the budget a little, but YOU will LOVE your bike after it's set up properly. I started out back in Nov. 08 with a Wally-Mart Roadmaster (Mnt. Sport SX), sudo-MTB, the assembly was CRAP!!! I spent $50 to have it tuned up at a local LBS and that bicycle worked extremely well for being a total POS!! IF you really want to ENJOY your ride and not "WORRY" about brakes, ect. GO have your bike TUNED-UP!! You will thank yourself 100 times over, learned from experiance!!
    Last edited by bjjoondo; 05-10-09 at 03:20 PM. Reason: additional info and spelling errors
    Take care, RIDE SAFE, have FUN!
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjjoondo View Post
    Do yourself a HUGE favor, take the bike to a good LBS and have them do a Tune-Up service, I know it hurt's the macho attitude but YOU will LOVE your bike after it's set up properly. I started out back in Nov. 08 with a Wally-Mart Roadmaster (Mnt. Sport SX), sudo-MTB, the assembly was CRAP!!! I spend $50 to have it tuned up at a local LBS and that bicycle worked extremely well for being a total POS!! IF you really want to ENJOY your ride and not "WORRY" about brakes, ect. GO have your bike TUNED-UP!! You will thank yourself 100 times over, learned from experiance!!
    thats some good advice, im gona call up peddlers and see how much they charge for a tune up

  20. #20
    Recreational/Utility bjjoondo's Avatar
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    FWIW, you might want to do a upgrade on the kickstand, I've seen those "steel" one's RUST easy. There is a fairly inexpensive "Alloy" kickstand that's "lighter", won't rust and even seems to hold the bike up better loaded, (at least in my limited experiance with kickstand usage), YMMV. PS, any decent bicycle shop "should" have these alloy stands, just can't remember the name, FYI.
    Last edited by bjjoondo; 05-10-09 at 03:22 PM. Reason: Geeze I need to learn how to type!!! ;)
    Take care, RIDE SAFE, have FUN!
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  21. #21
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    +1 on having an LBS do a tune up on your bike. Back when I was looking for a bike, I visited several LBS' in the area, and mentioned the cheap Wal-Mart Mongoose I had purchased. I was told that if I wa going to keep it, to at least bring it in for a tune up so they could check everything to make sure it was tight, or adjusted correctly. $40 at the local Schwinn dealer. I would say that is a good investment for the price. I did not take the bike in for that tune up only because I ended up returning the bike to Wal-Mart and buying the KHS at an LBS that offers lifetime service on bikes bought there, (like most LBS' I suppose).
    Jim

    2008 KHS TC-150

  22. #22
    Ben totoroben's Avatar
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    From the looks of the crank, I'd say that bicycle is geared for mountain biking. This is good if you don't pedal very hard, but I prefer a chainring ~50 teeth for level/downhill.

  23. #23
    Ben totoroben's Avatar
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    one downside to those cloth seats is they usually wear out after about a year or two, depending on how often you ride.

  24. #24
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    Since you don't seem to be intimidated by doing your own repairs and maintenance as evidenced by your willingness to true your own wheel, why not learn how to do your own maintenance as well? You will find an excellent guide at Harris Cyclery - the website for instructions is www.sheldonbrown.com/harris or simply google on the name Sheldon Brown. The cost of labor these days is a killer. A few years ago a kid in my Scout Troop took his bike into an LBS and was charged $70 for a "tune up" on a bike that probably wasn't worth even that much. The upside to learning basic bike maintenance is the ability to fix things on the road if necessary.

    BTW, one of the downsides to aluminum frames is that if they fail, they fail catastrophically - all at once without warning. It's a worthy exercise to occasionally inspect the frame on your bike. In my entire life I have only seen one aluminum frame fail but it was a big surprise. A young kid rode his bike out of a camping area in Death Valley on to the road and in an instant was on the ground in a heap of bike frame. Thank God it happened there and not on a fast ride down the hill from Dante's View that he was scheduled to ride later in the day. That said, I do own two used aluminum bikes, a Cannondale SM 800 that I bought for $20 in a second-hand store, and a Balance 450 MTB that I have had for more than a decade. Neither has ever given me any problems.

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