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  1. #1
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    Trek 7300 2005 very slow

    Hi all:
    I found this forum very helpful when selecting my new Trek 7300 Hybrid.
    Now I need advice. I am 5'10 and purchased a Trek 7300 2005 size 17.5.
    The bike handles great. It hugs the road, and is very quiet and smooth.
    However, compared to my last bike, a Diamondback '88 hybrid it seems harder to get moving.

    It is slow. I have alot of trouble getting up hills, even flats feel like there is resistance.
    I have felt a little pressure on the front , lower kneecaps.
    I read where some riders were able to go 30 miles on this bike. But I don't see how I could get that far.
    I typically ride 10 miles twice a week.

    My lbs claims that older bikes had more teeth and that might account for the difference.
    Any thoughts?

  2. #2
    Queen of France Indolent58's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybike49
    Hi all:

    My lbs claims that older bikes had more teeth and that might account for the difference.
    Any thoughts?
    Teeth? More teeth? What on Earth do they mean by that?

    Unless you have unintentionally mangled what the LBS told you, you should find thee another bike shop as the "teeth" bit makes no sense.

    If they meant teeth as in gear teeth, the older bike would technically have fewer as it was probably 21 or 24 speed vs 27, but the overall gear range was probably similar. In any case the gear range would not make the bike feel fast or not fast unless it was completely missing reasonably high gears (which is not the case).

    If you are having knee pain riding I would suspect bike fit to be the most likely culprit. Assuming the frame is the right size, you may have the seat too low, which can be death on knees. Another possibility is the front suspension, which both adds weight and sucks up energy. I wish manufacturers would drop the idea of putting cheap suspension forks on hybrids. The forks are useless off road, and are unecessary on the road.

    Hopefully this is a fit issue, as there's not much you can do about the front suspension. Good luck, and be sure to slap the bike shop staff around for me.

  3. #3
    Senior Member bboseley's Avatar
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    I have a 2005 7300FX and have made several 30 mile rides on it. I too noticed a bit of roll resistance so I switched out the wheels and tires. Bontrager Race wheels and Bontrager Race Lite tires 700x23. Im not at all sure this will do any actual good but I like them anyway. Also added clipless pedals, which also contribute to a more efficient energy transfer as well as transferring a lot of skin off my knees!

  4. #4
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    What size & type tires does it have and what air pressure are you using? The maximum (or darned close to it) recommended on the sidewall? Also, you might see if the LBS has another Trek 7300 2005 size 17.5 in stock, ask them to let you ride it and see how it compares to yours. See if there's a noticeable difference. Maybe something is out of adjustment on yours.

  5. #5
    Senior Member kerk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hybike49
    Hi all:
    I read where some riders were able to go 30 miles on this bike. But I don't see how I could get that far.
    I typically ride 10 miles twice a week.
    If you are riding 10 miles twice a week, 30 should not be a problem. My daughter rode 75 miles on a Trek 700 hybrid. There is a problem with your bike. It may be the fit. 19" sounds small for you. Go to the LBS and ride a 19".
    2011 Raleigh International
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  6. #6
    Around now and then DnvrFox's Avatar
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    Sounds like tires to me.

    What pressure, what size?

    A few pounds of tire pressure can make a real difference.
    DnvrFox - still bicycling, swimming, walking and weight lifting at 74yo is participating a bit in BFN 50+.

  7. #7
    kfriel
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    If you say suspension forks not necessary, what about the difference between carbon forks and seat stays? I too am looking at a bike along these lines and semms to be about a $200 difference in price between a bike with just a carbon front fork or cro moly? Is that worth the extra $200?
    Kevin

  8. #8
    Around now and then DnvrFox's Avatar
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    Are you thinking of a hybrid with carbon forks?

    I wouldn't spend the money.

    I picture carbon forks, etc., on road bikes where, considering the tires and geometry of the bike. a carbon fork may give some increased ride smoothness.

    But a hybrid is an entirely different animal, with large tires, heavier frame, etc.
    DnvrFox - still bicycling, swimming, walking and weight lifting at 74yo is participating a bit in BFN 50+.

  9. #9
    kfriel
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    Yes,
    I am trying to budget for an 05, looking at the Trek's mentioned above and also like Specialized Sirrus.
    $800 gets me a Sirrus with disc brakes and cro mo fork. $900 gets me no disk brakes and a carbon fork.
    Want some "supple-ness" hence comfort bike, could take or leave the disc brakes, want a light performance bike weighing as others have I'm sure suspension forks, disc brakes, Part of the reason for a comfort/road is I don't like the pure road bike riding posisiton, yet at some point as my ability increases would like to be able to do a century on this new bike by next summer. So I don't want to spend $800+ on an half step bike then out grow it and be looking for a $1000 bike to do a century on.

    Do I need suspension forks on the road? Doubt it, do I need disc brakes? Doubt it Can get both for $800 with the cost of weight. I am a bit of a tradionalist, but am also thinking gee if I can GET forks and disc brakes with my budget and do say a century and a 50 mile event ride once a year would I be happer on my daily/weekend jaunts even if it weighs a little more?
    Kevin

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    Thank you for all your help.
    My tires are Bontrager 700x350. The tire pressure is 70lbs. Range is 60-80lbs.

  11. #11
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    I have a 2005 Trek 7300 and have just over 600 miles on it. I thought mine was somewhat poopy in performance also. Upon inspection the LBS found that the rear cone was absolutely shot and replaced it under warranty. I am 5'9" and weigh 185 and run 80 pounds in my stock tires and it now runs smoother. I have done quite a few 20 milers but a century would be a stretch for me on this bike. The only part I have replaced are the Walmart quality pedals. I can't comment on whether or not the shocks are worth anything because I have no experience to draw on. Overall, I would purchase this one again.

  12. #12
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    What size bike did you get?

  13. #13
    No pain, no gain. PainTrain's Avatar
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    I ride a 22" 7100 with 700X35 tires, no problem doing 30 mi. on it. Has front suspension.

  14. #14
    Senior Member kerk's Avatar
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    Checked my Trek that my 5'6" daughter rode - it's a 19" frame. You have to go to the lbs and try a bigger frame.
    2011 Raleigh International
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    Proud owner of all three colors made! Orange, Blue , Yellow .

  15. #15
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    from the specs on trekbikes.com, your bike's tire brand/model is bontrager select invert 'hardcase'. what that means is that your tires are the 'puncture resistant' type and so your ride may feel heavier.

    i just actually bought the same tires today because i had to replace the rear tire. It has a massive tear when the tube blew when i rode over some broken glass. I haven't had the chance to try them out yet.

    I have an '04 trek 7100 with a regular bontrager select invert (non-hardcase). I've had the bike for about 9 months now and was doing fine until the last few weeks when i kept getting flats every few days.

    What's weird is I never got flats on the rear tire until that one time when it blew. Before that, all my flats were on the front tire and all i had to do was either patch it up or replace the tube.

    I didn't really expect for the rear tire to rip like that, but since i had to buy new tires anyway I felt it was time to upgrade to a puncture resistant tire. The 'hardcase' model is similar to the specialized armadillo tires in that they're heavier compared to non-kevlar equiped tires.
    Last edited by tekfuel; 10-12-04 at 07:54 PM.

  16. #16
    2-Cyl, 1/2 HP @ 90 RPM slvoid's Avatar
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    Rather than tires, your old bike might be geared differently. Try lowering your gears and spinning more.

  17. #17
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    Hybike - I have the 17.5 frame.

  18. #18
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    how's the spin of the wheels? Turn the bike over and with your hand, start spinning the front wheel until it gets into a fast spin. Try to see how long (or short) it takes to stop. Do the same with the back wheel by spinning the pedals a few times.

    The resistance you're feeling may be with dirty bearings or nuts that are too tight.. as discussed here... How long should wheels spin...

    or it may be a bad axle cone.. like what zip06 has mentioned.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by tekfuel
    how's the spin of the wheels? Turn the bike over and with your hand, start spinning the front wheel until it gets into a fast spin. Try to see how long (or short) it takes to stop. Do the same with the back wheel by spinning the pedals a few times.

    The resistance you're feeling may be with dirty bearings or nuts that are too tight.. as discussed here... How long should wheels spin...

    or it may be a bad axle cone.. like what zip06 has mentioned.

    I just bought an '05 7300FX a week ago and it is a great bike. (note: i don't have a lot of knowledge about bikes, quickly learning though)... anyways, i took off both wheels to fit in my car and after replacing them, after riding about 15 miles i noticed the back wheel brakes rubbing the I brought it back for them to check out..now it seems that the wheel doesn't spin exactly "straight". I flipped the bike and I look at the back brakes and the distance between the wheel and the brake varies betweeen about 3mm to about 1.5mm, very slight, but noticeable. is there something wrong with the bike or is this normal for tuning? how do you know long is the wheel supposed to spin, before stopping?

    -thanks

  20. #20
    Member BikeLady's Avatar
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    Hmmm...it really sounds like there is a mechanical problem with the bike. I'd take it back to the shop where you got it and describe the problem to them.

    I'd also have someone check the fit. Unless you have extremely short legs, 17.5 sounds awfully small for someone who is 5'10"! That could be contributing to your knee pain, because you may not be able to get the seatpost high enough.

    Do you have another shop in your area? Yours sounds kind of...questionable?

  21. #21
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    I bought a Trek 7300 at the end of May. I found it to be easier to ride then my mountain bike due to tire resistence and frame. The 7300 is a step through frame. It is a heavy bike but once you overcome the initial resistence, it rolls beautifully. It does seem to require more power to get it going. My crusing speed is 12-13 mph and I can go up to 18mph but that takes a lot of work! If there is a solution to getting it rolling faster I would appreciate knowing it. My tires are at 80lbs.

  22. #22
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    I went back to my lbs, he slid the seat forward and raised it.
    He feels this will take care of the knee pain.

    He still claims it is the proper size fit. However, as stated, I am 5' 10 and have long legs and arms. So maybe a larger frame owuld have been better. I'll see if that helps. I plan to take a long ride in the next couple of days.

    Again, I want to thank everyone for all the great advice and research you all did. Really terrific information that I plan to use.

  23. #23
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    I bought a Trek 7300FX in August and have been using it as a commuter (16 miles round trip), and some longer rides on the weekends. It does seem a bit slow, and the speeds mentioned by Stormy sound typical. I am really interesested if the 700x23s make a significant difference in performance. I will stick with the 700x35s though because of the lousy city streets that I commute in.

    The orgional front fork was bent, so Trek sent a new one. They acutally had to upgrade it with a 7500fx fork (made in USA), since they didn't have a 7300fx fork (they are made in China). A tire also had to be replaced due to a defective bead. It seems there are a number of posts about 7300s having manufacturer's defects.

    I wonder if Trek has a quality control problem with their overseas made bikes?

  24. #24
    SeaLevel
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    I am also 5'10" and just recently bought a 2005 Trek 7500 - 17.5".

    I rode both the 17.5" and the 20" - they don't make one in between. The 20" was too large for sure. The 17.5" seemed a little small at first, but after properly adjusting it to my preference - raising the seat to where I could get proper extension, moving the seat back slightly, and adjusting the handlebars (tilted slightly more forward) - it now fits great. I know this isn't the only guideline, but when I stand over the 17.5" frame I have just a little clearance. Because of the wheels and the geometry of the frame you can't just go by the frame size. 10-15 mile rides are a breeze, and I do those just about every day. I haven't found time for longer rides yet, but I hope to work up to those as I free up time in my schedule.

    The 7500 has a different shifting system, but I doubt that makes that much difference. I would suggest making sure you have the right handlebar adjustment and pumping the tires all the way up to 80 psi.

    Have fun!

  25. #25
    Senior Member daveed's Avatar
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    I'm in the process of changing out the crankset -- to a steel Surgino 24/38/46 -- on my '05 7300 FX for no other reason than I thought the stock part looked pretty cheap (though it worked). Cost: $66, plus another double sawbuck for labor. I wanted to upgrade to a Deore or Deore LX for $100 or so. But the only cranksets in the cataogue were recommended for 9-speeds, which the mechanic claimed would not work on my bike unless I was willing to change out other components. He added that 8-speed gearing, like on the 7300, is on its way out.

    Btw, I have had no trouble getting the bike up to speed on several long rides.

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