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  1. #1
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    How can I improve this?

    I enjoy long rides. I got the most comfortable seat I could find and just this year added those things on the handle bar. I bought them at the advice of the guy who runs my local bike shop. But how can I make it an even easier ride? it's a very heavy bike and that is it's biggest down fall. Other then that I really love this bike.
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  2. #2
    The Recumbent Quant cplager's Avatar
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    If your riding on the roads, then putting slick (smooth) tires will make a huge difference.

    One issue that your going to have problems with is the suspension. Cheap(er) suspension is hard to adjust and can be very lossy.

    I highly recommend changing tires. Given the suspension, I wouldn't sink to much more money in the bike.
    http://Charles.Plager.net
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  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by cplager View Post
    If your riding on the roads, then putting slick (smooth) tires will make a huge difference.

    One issue that your going to have problems with is the suspension. Cheap(er) suspension is hard to adjust and can be very lossy.

    I highly recommend changing tires. Given the suspension, I wouldn't sink to much more money in the bike.
    Pretty much sums up what I was thinking. What kind of terrain are you riding on during your long rides? Street, hardpack bike path, dirt, etc?

    I have Michelin Pilot Sports on my old steel non suspended MTB. I went fat and pretty smooth for a good combo of silky ride and reasonably efficient. 26x2.0 size. They work well around town, much better than a knobby but you can still hit rough stuff and not worry about it.

    I had some Michelin City series 26x1.5 ( I think they come in 1.4 nowadays but close enough ) that I had on that same bike before the 2.0s. Was a good tire and size if you want to do mostly pavement. I have 26x1.75 Conti somethinorothers on my Trek Transport.

    Your bike is not going to be very efficient on the street by basic design. If you want to ride mostly road and bike path, urban stuff, I'd consider getting something more targeted at that kind of riding if efficiency is a concern.

  4. #4
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    Thanks your reply!
    I ride on the street but enjoy a bike path. That's why I got a mountain bike so I could handle both. I never thought about bigger tires and that's an interesting idea. Going with a smooth tire is also a good idea. I know I went with a Target bike and I didn't break my bank lol! It's a great bike and I have no issues with it at all, other then it's heavy. But a heavy bike make me work harder and burn more calories lol!
    What tires should I get that would be bigger and smooth but won't cost a lot?

  5. #5
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    My suspensionless steel mountain bike is a heavy beast - about 40 lbs with the rear panniers. I mostly ride roads and paved MUPs, but I occasionally enjoy dirt bike paths. I switched from knobbies to Kenda K838 26 x 2.0 hybrid slicks, and have been very happy with them. I think they cost about $15 each at the time.

    Is there any way you can lock out both suspension mechanisms? This would make riding easier by allowing you to transfer more power to the drive train instead of having some of it be dampened by movement of the suspension frame and fork.

  6. #6
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Re: How can I improve this?

    you would be better off just replacing it ..

    Its a bike resembling a full suspension mountain Bike.. but Aka, a Bike Shaped Object..
    a proper FS MTB is in the $2K+ range.


    Better will be a Hybrid.. Narrower, easier rolling wheels ... without being overly thin.

    and a reasonably comfortable handlebar that many are satisfied with ...


    Visit a proper Bike Shop and take some test rides. the quality of bikes in those shops
    is better than those coming out of mass merchandisers .

    And they, the shop staff, are there for service after the sale ..

  7. #7
    Member registrar's Avatar
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    Those handle bar can help you ride easily ?? Cannot figure it out how though ?

    Thank you!

  8. #8
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    Ciao Nick,

    I agree with most of your serious posters that the quickest upgrade if you only ride pavement and well packed and groomed gravel paths is a new set of tires. It is amazing what a difference it makes to have the right tires for the job.

    Further improvements hinge on what you want to do with the bike beyond long rides.

    Fenders make the bike much more enjoyable on wet roads. I love the smell of the world right after it has had a bath.

    A rack of some kind can bring the pleasure of the bike into the everyday tedium of errands, though with that bike your choice of racks is quite limited. The easiest is one that clamps on the seat post - but look for one with a wire loop that extends down on either side of the wheel if you want the option of mounting panniers. You need something to hook them to and to keep them out of the wheel.

    I have a locking box/case that I have on the rear rack of one of my bikes - it is cheap and ugly and no real deterrent to a determined thief - but it keeps my camera out of sight and gives it more protection when I combine biking and photography. It also means that backpack sized loads are not carried on my back which produces much less sweat an better air flow.

    If you really want to extend the utility of the bike, a cargo trailer is a great addition. I go hit the yard sales and go grocery shopping with mine. My trailer fits 4 flip top totes in two stacks. Lots of grocery capacity there.

    And - LIGHTS!!. I am a great fan of those cheap little frog lights that you just wrap around a bar or tube of the right diameter. With the current LED technology they last all summer. And you don't have to leave them on the bike to be stolen. In flashing mode especially, those lights really up your visibility. Nothing ruins a good ride faster than being run over by some cage pilot who "didn't see" you, eh?

    AND - don't let any fool tell you that you need to spend 2000 buck to have a "real" bike. Such people are just trying to bum you out in order to feel better about how much they spent for their ride. Would you really notice the difference if you dropped 2g on a bike - absoposifrigginlutely. That does NOT mean, however, that your bike is not a bike, and the pleasure it gives you is not real pleasure.

    Besides - some of us would be downright EMBARRASSED to tell the world I spent that much for my bike. It I had such a bike, I would have to debadge it.

    Have fun. Enjoy the ride.

  9. #9
    Senior Member
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    First, I'd go with the advice of locking out the rear suspension since it won't cost you any money to do so. If you can't lock it out, them set it as high as you can. You don't need it (stand up if it gets too bumpy) and it robs energy from you.

    And like others have said, change the tires. From what you posted about riding on the street, tell your LBS that and have them recommend a tire that will give you a better ride on the road, but will also handle an ocassional ride on a packed trail.

  10. #10
    Bicyclerider4life
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    I have the Pacific PK-7 version of this bike (Target's version in 2002/2003). The only change I've made is a 28/38/48 tooth Bio-Pace crank set, full fenders, and a WALD flashlight handlebar clamp. I have the rear suspension adjusted so when I jump a curb, the rear "shock" does not quite bottom out. NO penalty when pedaling, and a smooth ride.
    I ride city streets, gravel. grass, sand, snow, and mud, so kept the original fat knobbies.
    "Whenever I see an adult riding a bicycle, I know there is hope for mankind." (H. G. Wells)

  11. #11
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