EZ-1 Mod Frame+Questions
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EZ-1 Mod Frame+Questions
Hey there guys, I am building my first recumbent bike off of a modified EZ-1 frame. the frame I'm gonna use[/URL] . I think I have various road bikes laying around my garage, older schwins and some suntours. The guy says to use a 20" front wheel, I was wondering what you all thought of me using a 26" front wheel. The reason is, I have everything I need for that, but would have to fiddle around with getting brake assembly/fork/wheel to use a 20" front. This is my first groud up bike build(although I built my 1957 Chevy Bel Air from the ground up) so I'm a bit of a novice.
Also, I was thinking of brazing a connecting bar to another brake caliper, about 5 inches apart, so I could have 4 shoes squeezing rather than just two. I am going to use some of those ginourmous brake shoes that I've seen around about 4 inches long. Is there a better way to do this?
One more thing, are all chains a standarad size? Could I just take the chains off my old bikes, kick out a few of the links and re link them to make a longer chain?
Once these few things are answered, heres my plan, to build this LWB rockstar, 26" front and back wheels, possible USS(but I've never rode on one of those), the best bearings I can find. A friend is giving me all his campy components, and his hill climber gear set/cassette, so that should cover that part. I'm going to be commuting about 12 miles a day on this(to campus,around campus, to work, and back home). The terrain is mostly flat, save for about a mile of decent hills(they didn't kill me on an upright, and I'm not super in shape).
If you all have any advice for me, I'd love to hear it. The reasons for buying the frame and monkey'ing this together is that I am a broke college kid who can't afford a beautiful rans rocket(or stratus) and I have lots of parts sitting around. I've always wanted a recumbent, rode one(a few years ago and I can't get it off my mind) and this is my chance.
Any help you can give me would be great!
Thanks,
Mike Perrault
Eugene, Oregon,USA
I apologize for the(possibly) stupid questions.
Also, I was thinking of brazing a connecting bar to another brake caliper, about 5 inches apart, so I could have 4 shoes squeezing rather than just two. I am going to use some of those ginourmous brake shoes that I've seen around about 4 inches long. Is there a better way to do this?
One more thing, are all chains a standarad size? Could I just take the chains off my old bikes, kick out a few of the links and re link them to make a longer chain?
Once these few things are answered, heres my plan, to build this LWB rockstar, 26" front and back wheels, possible USS(but I've never rode on one of those), the best bearings I can find. A friend is giving me all his campy components, and his hill climber gear set/cassette, so that should cover that part. I'm going to be commuting about 12 miles a day on this(to campus,around campus, to work, and back home). The terrain is mostly flat, save for about a mile of decent hills(they didn't kill me on an upright, and I'm not super in shape).
If you all have any advice for me, I'd love to hear it. The reasons for buying the frame and monkey'ing this together is that I am a broke college kid who can't afford a beautiful rans rocket(or stratus) and I have lots of parts sitting around. I've always wanted a recumbent, rode one(a few years ago and I can't get it off my mind) and this is my chance.
Any help you can give me would be great!
Thanks,
Mike Perrault
Eugene, Oregon,USA
I apologize for the(possibly) stupid questions.
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You shouldn't need a quad brake pad setup. If you want phenomenal braking power, use a disc brake. Take a look at this book, https://www.atomiczombie.com/book-bonanza.htm for some ideas. Maybe your library has it! I think there's another post in this section of the forum, from another member who is selling plans for a lowracer, you might be able to get some ideas from there, too.
Finally, you should visit the "Framebuilders" section of this forum, if you haven't already...
Finally, you should visit the "Framebuilders" section of this forum, if you haven't already...
#3
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I notice you said you are going to braze brake arms together, so that tells me you have fabrication tools and skills. I would have to say nix the EZ-1 convert frame (I assume it's one of the ones off ebay- your link didn't work).
Anyway, I say NO to the heavy EZ-1 frame (which would have issues with trail since the headtube angle was originally designed for a 16" front wheel) and would advise you to have a look at AD Carson's website:
Recycled Recumbent
for a much better frame geometry for very little money.
Also, have look at my bike, which is very good on hills, but lousy for commuting.
atomBLASTER
Anyway, I say NO to the heavy EZ-1 frame (which would have issues with trail since the headtube angle was originally designed for a 16" front wheel) and would advise you to have a look at AD Carson's website:
Recycled Recumbent
for a much better frame geometry for very little money.
Also, have look at my bike, which is very good on hills, but lousy for commuting.
atomBLASTER
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Yeah, that's the one I was talking about... Got any plans for a taller bike, atombikes?
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Originally Posted by jeff-o
Yeah, that's the one I was talking about... Got any plans for a taller bike, atombikes?
I unfortunately do not offer any plans other than the BLASTER plans. But a BLASTER with 26" mtn bike wheels can have a seat height in the 18-19" range, which is not that much lower than the Toureasy Clone type of bikes.
I suppose you could call the 26" atomBLASTER more of a mid-racer, if that is a term?
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So, about my building skills. I've rebuilt the entirety of a 1957 Bel Air body, through traditional lead work. I know a lot about body work, but little about construction. I just know a lot of metal workers. I've thought about doing all the pre-weld prep, and cutting and just bringing it to my metal monkies to weld together. The main issues I am running into are:
1. I don't know bike frame geometry to ad-lib any mistakes along the way.
2. I don't know the nature of the beast(actually riding a bent) enough to feel comfortable in being its creator.
3. I haven't had much experience in the mechanics of bikes as of yet(as much as my car guy mind would like to tell me that they're the un evolved version of the HotRod, I know it isn't true) to feel comfortable in both building a frame and doing the mechanical stuff.
Also, if I buy this frame, and put it all together and it is too heavy, it will be much easier for my metal worker buddies to build a jig for a new frame if they have one to work from, even if it isn't the exact thing I want. Also, in riding it, I'll work out what needs to change for it to be a perfect bike for me.
Atombikes: You said that adding anything larger than a 16" will screw up trail? In the car world, this means front to back tracking(ie "good alignment") Is this the same meaning? The ebay guy, says that his mod's are done with a 20" front wheel in mind. The Head Tube angle is considerably different on this frame as opposed to a normal EZ-1. Also, he's taken out a lot of useless framing(useless at least from my perspective) it ends up looking much like the frame in the link you added. It still will be made of steel though.
Also, will a normal braking system(from a early 80's roadbike lowish quality) be enough to stop this beast? Bear in mind that I live in western oregon(it rains 9months out of hte year) and that I am 280 lbs, in sometimes semi hilly terrain. I still can't shake the hot rodders mindset, "lose all the weight you can, except in the drivetrain and the brakes, there you need to add weight".
Commuting is the name of the game for me, yeah there are some semi steep hills(I can ride up on an upright in second to lowest gear, easey peeezie).
Also, the position of a ez-1(or most bents for that matter) makes me think that some extra weight isn't really much of an issue for me. I'm rugby player(the pushing position is the same as a riding pos is on a bent) and I legpress about 1000 lbs for my daily leg work out. I do have bad knees though, and have read about "bent knee syndrome".
I'll take a look around hte library/book stores for your book Atomic.
I get paid at the end of the month, so I have 25 days to decide whether or not to build a frame or buy a fatty first frame.
Thanks for your help guys, I'll keep you updated as to how this project goes.
Mike Perrault
Eugene,Oregon
1. I don't know bike frame geometry to ad-lib any mistakes along the way.
2. I don't know the nature of the beast(actually riding a bent) enough to feel comfortable in being its creator.
3. I haven't had much experience in the mechanics of bikes as of yet(as much as my car guy mind would like to tell me that they're the un evolved version of the HotRod, I know it isn't true) to feel comfortable in both building a frame and doing the mechanical stuff.
Also, if I buy this frame, and put it all together and it is too heavy, it will be much easier for my metal worker buddies to build a jig for a new frame if they have one to work from, even if it isn't the exact thing I want. Also, in riding it, I'll work out what needs to change for it to be a perfect bike for me.
Atombikes: You said that adding anything larger than a 16" will screw up trail? In the car world, this means front to back tracking(ie "good alignment") Is this the same meaning? The ebay guy, says that his mod's are done with a 20" front wheel in mind. The Head Tube angle is considerably different on this frame as opposed to a normal EZ-1. Also, he's taken out a lot of useless framing(useless at least from my perspective) it ends up looking much like the frame in the link you added. It still will be made of steel though.
Also, will a normal braking system(from a early 80's roadbike lowish quality) be enough to stop this beast? Bear in mind that I live in western oregon(it rains 9months out of hte year) and that I am 280 lbs, in sometimes semi hilly terrain. I still can't shake the hot rodders mindset, "lose all the weight you can, except in the drivetrain and the brakes, there you need to add weight".
Commuting is the name of the game for me, yeah there are some semi steep hills(I can ride up on an upright in second to lowest gear, easey peeezie).
Also, the position of a ez-1(or most bents for that matter) makes me think that some extra weight isn't really much of an issue for me. I'm rugby player(the pushing position is the same as a riding pos is on a bent) and I legpress about 1000 lbs for my daily leg work out. I do have bad knees though, and have read about "bent knee syndrome".
I'll take a look around hte library/book stores for your book Atomic.
I get paid at the end of the month, so I have 25 days to decide whether or not to build a frame or buy a fatty first frame.
Thanks for your help guys, I'll keep you updated as to how this project goes.
Mike Perrault
Eugene,Oregon
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I'm not sure that Atomic Zombie and Atombikes are the same guy...
In your case, you'll probably want a decent amount of frame to support your weight. A lot of commercial bikes are only spec'd up to 275 pounds or less, so be sure that your ride can support you.
As far as trail goes, a head tube angle is chosen for a specific range of wheel diameters; going outside of the design parameters will cause the steering to flop side to side, making it hard to steer and keep straight.
For brakes, you'll definitely want some cable-actuated disc brakes up front. Not only are these far more powerful than regular V-brakes, but they also perform better in the rain. You'll need a lot of stopping power, that's for sure. You could probably just put v-brakes on the back wheel, though.
Take another look at the "koolkat" recumbent on the link I posted above. It's a short wheelbase bike, but it looks like it would be very cheap AND easy to build. All you need is a children's bike and some steel pipe/conduit. Heck, you might even be able to build it for free....
In your case, you'll probably want a decent amount of frame to support your weight. A lot of commercial bikes are only spec'd up to 275 pounds or less, so be sure that your ride can support you.
As far as trail goes, a head tube angle is chosen for a specific range of wheel diameters; going outside of the design parameters will cause the steering to flop side to side, making it hard to steer and keep straight.
For brakes, you'll definitely want some cable-actuated disc brakes up front. Not only are these far more powerful than regular V-brakes, but they also perform better in the rain. You'll need a lot of stopping power, that's for sure. You could probably just put v-brakes on the back wheel, though.
Take another look at the "koolkat" recumbent on the link I posted above. It's a short wheelbase bike, but it looks like it would be very cheap AND easy to build. All you need is a children's bike and some steel pipe/conduit. Heck, you might even be able to build it for free....
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Originally Posted by jeff-o
I'm not sure that Atomic Zombie and Atombikes are the same guy...
The only thing I have published are the plans for my lowracer, the atomBLASTER, seen here:
https://www.geocities.com/atombikes/plans.html
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
As for headtube angle, the EZ-1 series of bikes were designed with a 16" front wheel, 20" rear. And the headtube angle was probably specified at an angle that was a good balance between too much tiller in the steering and excessive trail. Changing either the front wheel or the rear will change the headtube angle, unless you cut out the headtube and re-weld to reorient it (which I doubt has happened with the ebay EZ-1's - but I could be wrong...).
Now whether the changes made to the ebay EZ-1 frames are significant enough to affect handling, I don't know. The changes could actually IMPROVE handling. There is a guy over on bentrideronline.com that modified an EZ-1 with a different fork to add a 20" front wheel ( no change to the rear). He said it drastically improved the feel of the bike.
Last edited by atombikes; 02-07-06 at 08:42 AM.
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Hey there guys, I was looking at the stock EZ-1 and the photos the ebay guy(APbikes) posted, the front head tube looks to be at a different angle. Also, lots "editing"(again, car guy lingo) was done to the frame, looks much cleaner/lighter.
If it doesn't work out, I can always get a smaller wheel/fork assembly. No worries.
Thanks for your help guys.
Mike P
If it doesn't work out, I can always get a smaller wheel/fork assembly. No worries.
Thanks for your help guys.
Mike P