Not having made a seat, I am guessing, but I have done wood laminating. I would suspect you are going to use something thin like veneer to allow for shaping easily. Then are you planning on using sheets or strips? If you use sheets, you should do like plywood, and make the grain perpendicular (sp) to each layer for strength. Depending on thickness, you may not need anything else. If you use strips, I find glassing helps hold the strips together along with alternating the grain. Use a good epoxy glue.
Thanks for your reply, I plan on using sheets of vaneer recycled from some closet doors I picked up, the wood is actually three layer plywood, and if I use four layers of this material I will end up having a half inch thickness. Would you still recomend using glass in this case? If so would you use glass sheets, or fiber strands (this option being cheeper). I would like to keep the cost down, and glass would for sure put the cost up! I was also thinking of using contact glue as an adhesave, what is the differance between this and epoxy?
Thanks again for letting me pick your brain!
I gather you are curving these in one plane only and not attempting to create an M5 clone. (M5 seats look like the inside of half a banana peel) 3 ply veneer is probably too thick to bend much, so I imagine something resembling a lawn chair. Do you plan to use a vinyl airbag to compress the veneer or an external caul and clamps? Contact will work but not be anywhere near as strong as epoxy. Check out West System (Gougeon Brothers) for example epoxy glues for veneer. If cost is a concern, epoxy may be a nonstarter however. Contact might work for a trial effort and proof of concept. Steve
With your recomendation, I think I'll go ahead and put out the money for epoxy, sounds like you know what your talking about!
Yes I am going one plane, although the shape is a little more radical than a lawnchair....I'm hopeing that with a lot of soaking the three ply veneer that I have will be up for the bending(here's hopeing). Being in Atlantic Canada, there's a lot of boat building going on and I may be able to get the epoxy at a reasonable enough price....
I'll check in after to tell you how it went
I hope the original veneer glue is upto the soaking, be a good way to find out if it delaminates by soaking. If so you will need some other source of veneer than doors. Most veneer doors are 'indoor' so the veneer glue may be problematic. As I said
you may end up doing several before you end up with a satisfactory final product. Contact is not forgiving of positioning errors but can be rolled into place using a release sheet between the layers and slowly removing as it is put in place. Contact and epoxy may not stick to wet veneer. Hot veneer (200F or so) is more flexible but glues do funny things at high temps. You will need to practice a lot to use cauls and wraps. Long set epoxy will be needed, short set will harden before you get it spread out and the layers put together and clamped. Urethane cement would work well for this application but will be time restricted as well. I can't recall at present what the working time is for that but it IS waterproof and very strong. (also sl toxic, but epoxies and contacts are too) Steve
Looks like I'm in for some fun....I still think I'll go with the slow dry epoxy, I'll try to keep it at a lower temperature to slow the drying process, and leave it for a long time....maybe a week or so to make sure the veneer has time to dry.
Here's hopeing again...and again , thanks for all the invaluable information! I'll post in a while and let you know how it comes out.
Looking forward to seeing your results. Now you have to figure out how to pad and cover it. A friend went through 10-15 different foam combos and 2-3covers for his carbon M5 seat before an acceptable solution was found. Steve
Nice looking result. Is that the approximate angle of mount? Some provision for a head rest with the float material or something else might be in order. Depends a lot on your neck.. :-) For one approach to a head rest check out
the Catrike site. Steve