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Old 06-17-04, 08:07 PM   #1
jopatco
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'bents and 'puters

Hi Guys

I just got a Cycle Genius CLWB and want to add a computer (w/cadence). Probably a Cat's Eye Astrale 8. Can I expect the wire to be long enough to reach from the rear wheel cadence sensor to the handle bars?? Or should I just go wireless?

Thanks All
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Old 06-18-04, 06:36 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopatco
Hi Guys

I just got a Cycle Genius CLWB and want to add a computer (w/cadence). Probably a Cat's Eye Astrale 8. Can I expect the wire to be long enough to reach from the rear wheel cadence sensor to the handle bars?? Or should I just go wireless?

Thanks All

Hi,

I just recently purchased a Rans Tailwind (CLWB, 20" wheels). My dealer fitted it with that exact same computer. He added a bracket to the front deraileur mount to take the cadence sensor. The speedo pick-up is on the FRONT WHEEL, not the rear. The cables reach nicely with that configuration. The computer can be progammed for wheels sized from less than 16" to the biggest roadie size wheels so there is no issue with the sensor being on the front. My 'puter works like a champ. It allows me to measure my progress in developing my "'bent" legs. There are some wireless computers out there that have increased range I believe, and they may work on a 'bent. For most the distance is possibly too far to work correctly.

Any other comments from anyone?

'bent Brian
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Old 06-18-04, 09:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jopatco
Hi Guys

I just got a Cycle Genius CLWB and want to add a computer (w/cadence). Probably a Cat's Eye Astrale 8. Can I expect the wire to be long enough to reach from the rear wheel cadence sensor to the handle bars?? Or should I just go wireless?
Most wireless computers won't work over the distances necessary for a bent. All the computer makers that I know of offer a longer-wire kit to make the reach from the front wheel to the computer.

As has been mentioned, you may need to do some customizing for the cadence sensor because the frame/crank configuration on bents isn't the same as on DF's.
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Old 06-18-04, 12:24 PM   #4
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I have a Sigma (forget which model) with the standard wiring kit, which was mounted on an Easy Racers EZ1. Wheel sensor went to the front wheel. Cadence sensor was mounted on a scavenged reflector bracket, which allowed it to be placed far enough out to pick up the magnet on the left crank arm. I transferred it to my Rans Fusion semi-bent with pretty-much the same setup. Not much wire length to spare, though.
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Old 06-18-04, 07:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by madpogue
I have a Sigma (forget which model) with the standard wiring kit, which was mounted on an Easy Racers EZ1. Wheel sensor went to the front wheel. Cadence sensor was mounted on a scavenged reflector bracket, which allowed it to be placed far enough out to pick up the magnet on the left crank arm. I transferred it to my Rans Fusion semi-bent with pretty-much the same setup. Not much wire length to spare, though.
Yup! The dealer used the standard wiring kit, and yes, he used a reflector bracket to mount the cadence sensor! There was enough cable. It all works very nicely until you knock the cadence sensor off the bracket with your heel! (foot slipped!) Easy fix. Just re-secure the sensor and back in business!

'bent Brian
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Old 06-18-04, 08:34 PM   #6
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I use a wireless Vetta V100 with wireless computer and wireless cadence on my Volae Team. Works like a charm.
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Old 07-24-04, 06:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnet1
Hi,

I just recently purchased a Rans Tailwind (CLWB, 20" wheels). My dealer fitted it with that exact same computer. He added a bracket to the front deraileur mount to take the cadence sensor. The speedo pick-up is on the FRONT WHEEL, not the rear. The cables reach nicely with that configuration. The computer can be progammed for wheels sized from less than 16" to the biggest roadie size wheels so there is no issue with the sensor being on the front. My 'puter works like a champ. It allows me to measure my progress in developing my "'bent" legs. There are some wireless computers out there that have increased range I believe, and they may work on a 'bent. For most the distance is possibly too far to work correctly.

Any other comments from anyone?

'bent Brian
I have the Rans Tailwind also. I ordered the Astrale 8 because of your post. Today I installed it, but there is no length in MM listed for 20 X 1.50 tires in my instructions. Do you happen to know the number I would use to set the tire circumfrence? I don't own anything that measures in millimeters.

Thanks in advance,

GotBent
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Old 07-24-04, 10:40 PM   #8
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I don't own anything that measures in millimeters.
Welcome to Canada.
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Old 07-25-04, 07:42 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by GotBent
I have the Rans Tailwind also. I ordered the Astrale 8 because of your post. Today I installed it, but there is no length in MM listed for 20 X 1.50 tires in my instructions. Do you happen to know the number I would use to set the tire circumfrence? I don't own anything that measures in millimeters.

Thanks in advance,

GotBent
Try the "rollout" method of calculation ..... position your front wheel valve stem in the "6 o'clock" postion - mark this position on the pavement/driveway/sidewalk with chalk or a piece of tape. If at all possible, sit on your 'bent, and roll forward slowly until that front wheel valve stem makes one complete revolution back to the "6 o'clock" postion; mark the finishing spot on the pavement/driveway/sidewalk. Measure the distance between the two marks, then multiply your measurement (in inches) by 25.4 to get the millimeter equivalent. Might try the rollout routine a couple of times, and average the readings.

msm
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Old 07-25-04, 01:09 PM   #10
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Excellent advice msm, thank you.

GotBent
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Old 07-25-04, 02:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trsnrtr
I use a wireless Vetta V100 with wireless computer and wireless cadence on my Volae Team. Works like a charm.
That's not a CLWB-the 70 cm transmitter range can be sufficient for a SWB-not a CLWB. The longer distance other bents have front wheel to handlebars or rear wheel to handlebars won't due. My 1999 Vision R32 CLWB handlebars are min of 100 cm from either wheel sensor points. The transmitters have limitted range to prevent interference with other bikes' receivers when riding in packs.

We had a couple of threads over at BROL and came up with the humerous solution that partially defeats the purpose of a wireless - running wires part way to create waveguides or antenaes to bridge the gap.

Fortunately for Cateye wired users, they sell longer sensor wires.
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Old 07-25-04, 05:40 PM   #12
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That's not a CLWB-the 70 cm transmitter range can be sufficient for a SWB-not a CLWB. The longer distance other bents have front wheel to handlebars or rear wheel to handlebars won't due. My 1999 Vision R32 CLWB handlebars are min of 100 cm from either wheel sensor points. The transmitters have limitted range to prevent interference with other bikes' receivers when riding in packs.
I also don't run the computer on the handlebars. I run it on a peg made by Profil, the time trial people. The peg is placed lower on the tiller to shorten the distance to the transmitters and also to get better line of sight.

As to the thread on BROL, yes, it was humourous.
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Old 07-26-04, 05:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GotBent
I have the Rans Tailwind also. I ordered the Astrale 8 because of your post. Today I installed it, but there is no length in MM listed for 20 X 1.50 tires in my instructions. Do you happen to know the number I would use to set the tire circumfrence? I don't own anything that measures in millimeters.

Thanks in advance,

GotBent
That is interesting that there is no listing for your wheel. In the instuctions wit the computer I found a listing for the wheel and tire size used on my Tailwind. I checked the computer and that is the number the dealer entered when he programmed it. The tires are Primo Comets, but I don't recall the width, and I don't remember the figure that was progammed into the computer. I remember the computer had a huge range of wheel sizes available though. The rollout method should work fine though.

'bent brian
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Old 07-26-04, 10:49 AM   #14
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Cateye sells "tandem length" wiring harnesses but these can be hard to find.
The wire is a simple two conductor wire stranded copper about 22g or 24g
and it is straight forward to splice a foot or two of wire into the harness and
use shrink tubing to cover the splice if you have a long bike like my Rotator
Pursuit. 406 size tires come in such a wide variety from Stelvio/Contis at
24-26mm wide to Maxxis at 45+ mm that roll out is the only practical way
to come up with a number. Steve
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Old 07-26-04, 12:54 PM   #15
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I did the roll out method a couple of times and came up with very similar results. 1,526 millimeters is my tire roll out length for my 20 X 1.50 Primo Comets.

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions.

GotBent
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Old 07-30-04, 10:43 AM   #16
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I installed the Cat Eye Astrale 8 on my Rans Tailwind. Everything seems to work fine except I can't figure out how to set the clock. I have read the instructions a number of times with no help. Normally I have no problems with electronic devices. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,

GotBent
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Old 08-02-04, 05:48 AM   #17
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Fortunately I set the clock only once. And that was by a miracle. The directions are somewhat confusing and small to read to boot. Can't remember how I did it though. Possibly one of the back buttons to enter a setup mode?

'bent Brian
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Old 08-03-04, 05:58 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by GotBent
I installed the Cat Eye Astrale 8 on my Rans Tailwind. Everything seems to work fine except I can't figure out how to set the clock. I have read the instructions a number of times with no help. Normally I have no problems with electronic devices. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,

GotBent
The print on the directions is SMALL isn’t it?

1. Push the “START/STOP” button (on the bottom of the unit) and hold for 2 sec.
2. Push the grey “SET” button (on back of the unit at the top). The HOUR should flash. (It took a couple of tries to get this far.)
3. Push the “MODE” button (the triangular button below the display) to advance the hour.
4. Push the “START/STOP” button and the MINUTES will flash.
5. Advance the minutes with the “MODE” button.
6. Hit the “SET” button on back to finish.

Setting the clock was EZ compared to mounting the sensors!! I've had mine about 3 weeks and am just now finishing up the installation.

Good luck!
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Old 08-04-04, 08:13 AM   #19
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All right, you guys inspired me to keep trying. I figured out what my problem was. Like jopatco, I was holding down the button on the bottom of the unit for two seconds. I did this over and over. It seemed like that was the correct choice according to the instructions. There is a little picture pointing that way it seems.

WRONG. Hold down the button on the front face of the unit for 2 seconds. Gee, now the time is displayed. That's a first. Now push the set button on the back. Follow the instructions in the message prior to this. (For #1 hold down Mode instead of Start/Stop).

When you are riding, and want to know what time it is, hold down the button on the front face for two seconds, and the clock will be displayed.

Well, I'm all set now.

Thanks for all of the help.

GotBent

Oh yeah, to mount the cadence sensor I had to use multiple layers of double sided foam tape to get it close enough to the magnet. I agree that mounting the sensors was not very easy.
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Old 08-05-04, 11:43 AM   #20
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Oh yeah, to mount the cadence sensor I had to use multiple layers of double sided foam tape to get it close enough to the magnet. I agree that mounting the sensors was not very easy.
That's why I mounted mine on an old reflector mount; it spans the greater distance between stay and crank arm common to many 'bents.
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