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Recumbent What IS that thing?! Recumbents may be odd looking, but they have many advantages over a "wedgie" bicycle. Discuss the in's and out's recumbent lifestyle in the recumbent forum.

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Old 07-22-13, 07:25 AM   #26
chrisblessing
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I purchased this frame after viewing hundreds of images of both assembled and converted Cruzbikes. The placement of the hinge, seat height and the interesting rear suspension all looked just right. The frame is from SpeedOne, of Taiwan. They offer the frame with front suspension but I didn't think I'd need it and saved a few bucks.

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Originally Posted by Shahmatt View Post
@ cplager,

Thanks for the link. This is indeed worth pondering about.

@ chrisblessing,

A really nice piece of work.

Did you pick the bike for the job? Or did you have the bike on hand before deciding to convert it?
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Old 08-05-13, 03:11 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by chrisblessing View Post
I purchased this frame after viewing hundreds of images of both assembled and converted Cruzbikes. The placement of the hinge, seat height and the interesting rear suspension all looked just right. The frame is from SpeedOne, of Taiwan. They offer the frame with front suspension but I didn't think I'd need it and saved a few bucks.
Thanks for this. I'm looking at the Speedone website and don't see frames on offer. . Did you contact them specifically requesting for a frame?

Secondly, I believe a faster fold may be possible if the cruzbike seat could be split into two parts, i.e. into the back rest and bottom seat. If the back rest can be attached to the seat post, and bottom rest on to the frame in front of the top tube hinge then removing the seat during folding may not be necessary. Would you agree?
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Old 08-05-13, 06:32 AM   #28
chrisblessing
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Hello Shahmatt,

I purchased the frame on Ebay. I think SpeedOne primarily sells unbranded frames to assemblers; I've never actually seen a SpeedOne in the wild. *

As for the seat, I'm inclined to agree with you, but, frankly, it only takes me a moment to remove the seat (I don't use clamps), and another to separate the two parts. I use a plastic-head bolt and wing nut, so it can be done by hand. Honestly, the seat is off and broken down in about 3 minutes.

To fold this bike and get it into its carry bag takes about 4 minutes. To do some minor dis-assembly and get it into my Dahon Airporter Mini takes about 15 minutes. The only fly in the ointment is that I have to leave one wheel out. I'm still puzzling that last bit out.

Last edited by chrisblessing; 08-05-13 at 06:37 AM. Reason: more information
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Old 08-05-13, 10:51 AM   #29
cplager
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Secondly, I believe a faster fold may be possible if the cruzbike seat could be split into two parts, i.e. into the back rest and bottom seat. If the back rest can be attached to the seat post, and bottom rest on to the frame in front of the top tube hinge then removing the seat during folding may not be necessary. Would you agree?
I use wing nuts to attach the bottom to the seat back on my Cruzbike folder for exactly that reason. Works fairly well.
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Old 08-05-13, 12:37 PM   #30
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As I sit and ponder this type of drive train I think back to what the auto Industry learned from front wheel drive.

A shorter drive line,, a smaller drive shaft is lighter, spins up faster,
Pulling a thing is more efficient than pushing, Trains are proof of this.

Routing the chain even with the super efficient T-Cycle Idlers is still more drag than direct chain lines,
Re routing the chain on the power side is even less efficient than the slack side, doing both,

It's not rocket science..

Every pound of rotational mass removed has the same effect as loosing TWO pounds of static weight on a two wheeled vehicle.
The Above would also apply to ounces I would think..

I contemplated this on, 'The Tree Of Woe' for a fortnight.....
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Old 08-05-13, 02:30 PM   #31
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Every pound of rotational mass removed has the same effect as loosing TWO pounds of static weight on a two wheeled vehicle.
The Above would also apply to ounces I would think..
This is only true for accelerating and not for climbing (AND chains rotate a lot more slowly than wheels). And as big of a fan of MBB bikes as I am, I would use saved chain weight as a big factor.

No idlers is a big plus. And stiffer bottom bracket means less losses too.
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Old 08-05-13, 09:00 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by cplager View Post
I use wing nuts to attach the bottom to the seat back on my Cruzbike folder for exactly that reason. Works fairly well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisblessing View Post
Hello Shahmatt,

I purchased the frame on Ebay. I think SpeedOne primarily sells unbranded frames to assemblers; I've never actually seen a SpeedOne in the wild. *

As for the seat, I'm inclined to agree with you, but, frankly, it only takes me a moment to remove the seat (I don't use clamps), and another to separate the two parts. I use a plastic-head bolt and wing nut, so it can be done by hand. Honestly, the seat is off and broken down in about 3 minutes.

To fold this bike and get it into its carry bag takes about 4 minutes. To do some minor dis-assembly and get it into my Dahon Airporter Mini takes about 15 minutes. The only fly in the ointment is that I have to leave one wheel out. I'm still puzzling that last bit out.
Thanks for the information.

Did you have to engineer the wingnut clamp for the seat? Does the seat come with the necessary holes/grooves etc. in order for a wingnut clamp to go in? Would this require a workshop with specific tools?

I notice that both of you have chosen aluminium frame donor bikes. Is there any specific reason for choosing this material? The reason I ask is that isn't aluminium more brittle than steel? If so, and since the frame is being loaded differently from what was intended at the design stage would not steel have been a safer frame material?
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Old 08-06-13, 04:27 AM   #33
chrisblessing
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Shahmatt, the wing nut I described was simply to bolt the back and bottom of the seat. The attachment of the seat to the top bar uses a mount provided by Cruzbike. It's attached to the seat bottom, and fits over the tube. Hose clamps are used to secure it. As I have a rectangular frame I couldn't really use it, so I did machine a part which worked well but was heavy. I've since done away with it altogether. I use only a small felt pad and some Velcro to secure the seat, and so far I've had no issues. So, when I remove the seat I just undo the seat post clamp, and pull the seat away. Then I separate the two parts. As I stated, it's fast and easy.

As for aluminum, it's absolutely not too rigid for this application, and it's certainly lighter. And I don't believe my weight distribution is appreciably different than were this a conventional setup.

Chris
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Old 06-25-15, 07:04 AM   #34
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I'm afraid if you're going to go 'bent, you're going to have to give up on fast folding. If that's one of your priorities, why not a Brompton? Those suckers fold in the blink of an eye, and are set up perfectly for commuting.[/QUOTE]

Does the recumbent really have to fold in 20 seconds or less? Would 60 seconds or less do the trick? If so, I'm thinking of the HP Velotechnik Grasshopper fx. Available in above and under-seat steering (unlike the Azub) and German-made. A very solid commuting bike.
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Old 06-25-15, 02:05 PM   #35
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I wonder if they're every going to release this one??
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Old 02-28-16, 07:20 PM   #36
chrisblessing
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This post is past it's shelf life, but I thought I'd offer a quick update on my folding recumbent. Completed in 2013, with a few refinements thereafter, I've taken the bike on two fully-loaded tours in Thailand. The first, in 2014, was from Bangkok to Chiang Mai. Total distance was 900 km, but I fudged, flagging down a pickup truck for 60 km of a 140 km stretch between Uttaradit and Lampang. The stretch comprises 4 big climbs. I don't recall the elevation changes or vertical climbing totals, but Uttaradit is nearly sea-level while Lampang is about 244 m. The 4 mountains range from 800-1200 m. More sensible riders travel north to south. I caved on number 4 (Ban Mai) as it was by then 39 degrees and I wasn't ready to give up the ghost.

In 2015 I completed a second loaded tour (Burley Nomad trailer) from Phuket to Bangkok, along the Andaman Sea/Myanmar border and then along the Gulf of Thailand. 700 km, lots of intense coastal climbing but flat and pleasant on the eastern shores.

To those who argue that recumbents can't climb and can't go fast, I suggest you actually try one sometime. Both rides averaged 100 km daily, over 6-8 hours. I'm in my mid 60s, so I'm calling those adequate numbers, recumbent or not. I'm planning my next ride, Laos to Thailand, for June, and Korea in October. I'll fold my bike into a tiny package, wrap it in plastic and go. What's not to love.
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