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Recumbent What IS that thing?! Recumbents may be odd looking, but they have many advantages over a "wedgie" bicycle. Discuss the in's and out's recumbent lifestyle in the recumbent forum.

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Old 12-14-13, 08:59 AM   #26
Elad63
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RicR, welcome to the forum. I like where you put your pump.
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Old 12-14-13, 10:47 AM   #27
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Bob, Thanks for the feed back on the riding speed. I guess I'm in the ball park, and you're right, the bike is so much fun to ride and comfortable, I should take more time to enjoy the scenery. I like the looks of the Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX wire bead tires and I am very interested in what you think after you ride with both of them mounted. Were they any harder to get on the rim than normal and if you notice the decreased resistance?

Strange, but I was able to use the plastic stay protectors that came with the kick stand and the bolts actually extend about 1/8th inch on the inside. Not sure what the difference is? The seat back bag you ordered looks like it will hold a lot and it looks good on the bike. I'm trying to decide on a trunk back and panniers for the rear rack. The rack was also installed at the LBS and was suppose to be a sun or made for the sun, but I don't know what it is. I would like to pack a lunch some days for long rides and also be able to make runs to the grocery store. Would also like to do so touring one day, but don't know if I will get to that.

Thank you for starting this thread.

Ric
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Old 12-14-13, 08:55 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
osco53,
I'm planning a trip to Bicycle outfitters to test ride several recumbents or trikes after the first of the year. I see you're in central Florida. We should get together and do some riding. Bob
Yup that would be fun BUT My job is very demanding when the snowbirds pile up on us down here.
I tend to work my tail off from the first northern cold snap in November to late May or the first of June when the lightening storms
and mosquitos run the winter birds back home....

Bicycle outfitters is where I got my Tour Easy and they sold my EZ-1 sx for me on only three weeks.

The cool part, Bicycle outfitters has a gate just out the back door, opens ON the Pinellas trail XD

Saturdays are my ride day,, I'll watch for you here and if you go to test ride on Saturday I may be able to throw my Tour Easy
in my pick up truck and ride over, tag along while U test ride on the Trail..... May even rent me a Tadpole for a few hours..

FYI: They are between two trail overpasses, real good climbing to cross over the multilane streets there, It'll make ya pump hard, very steep to a flatlander like me.

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Old 12-14-13, 11:01 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by osco53 View Post
Yup that would be fun BUT My job is very demanding when the snowbirds pile up on us down here.
I tend to work my tail off from the first northern cold snap in November to late May or the first of June when the lightening storms
and mosquitos run the winter birds back home....

Bicycle outfitters is where I got my Tour Easy and they sold my EZ-1 sx for me on only three weeks.

The cool part, Bicycle outfitters has a gate just out the back door, opens ON the Pinellas trail XD

Saturdays are my ride day,, I'll watch for you here and if you go to test ride on Saturday I may be able to throw my Tour Easy
in my pick up truck and ride over, tag along while U test ride on the Trail..... May even rent me a Tadpole for a few hours..

FYI: They are between two trail overpasses, real good climbing to cross over the multilane streets there, It'll make ya pump hard, very steep to a flatlander like me.
Sounds like it might work. I have plenty of vacation time and Saturday is my brothers day off. He's had surgery on his neck so he needs a bent. We used to ride together a lot when we lived in Indiana. For me it's just a matter of planning a day and I'll put in for the day off. I'm so tired of riding by myself, that a group ride will be a welcome change. A group ride with fellow bent riders would be a big plus.

We'll have to stay in contact. If you see a good Saturday that will work for you, just let me know a couple weeks in advance, and we'll see what happens.

Bob
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Old 12-19-13, 11:31 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by RicR View Post
Bob, Thanks for the feed back on the riding speed. I guess I'm in the ball park, and you're right, the bike is so much fun to ride and comfortable, I should take more time to enjoy the scenery. I like the looks of the Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX wire bead tires and I am very interested in what you think after you ride with both of them mounted. Were they any harder to get on the rim than normal and if you notice the decreased resistance?

Strange, but I was able to use the plastic stay protectors that came with the kick stand and the bolts actually extend about 1/8th inch on the inside. Not sure what the difference is? The seat back bag you ordered looks like it will hold a lot and it looks good on the bike. I'm trying to decide on a trunk back and panniers for the rear rack. The rack was also installed at the LBS and was suppose to be a sun or made for the sun, but I don't know what it is. I would like to pack a lunch some days for long rides and also be able to make runs to the grocery store. Would also like to do so touring one day, but don't know if I will get to that.

Thank you for starting this thread.

Ric
First, yes the new Schwalbe Marathon GG RLX were a bit more difficult to get onto the rim than the Kenda tires. The Kendas practically fell off the rim. Not really but they came off rather easily.

Second, the ride on these tires was very comfortable. They roll very well and just feel better. They are stiffer than the Kenda and are a bit harder so they don't absorb the bumps like the softer tires. I feel they have less resistance than the Kenda. I've now put 105 miles on the tires and my very satisfied with them.



The new kickstand has been working very well. The bolts on the mount are just flush on the backside so as I stated above, I couldn't use the stay protectors. I think I know what the difference is between the two bikes. Ric, yours is a CX (chrome moly), mine is an AX (aluminum alloy). Mine probably has thicker tubing to help strengthen the lighter material.



I've got the new seat bag on the bike. I've decided to use it for my tool kit, spare tubes and other incidentals. The bag fits the seat perfectly and has a lot of space. I'm quite happy with this purchase. If there is a draw back, it's the extra weight up that high. But it hasn't affected the riding.



I'm using the Topeak Explorer rack with the MTX pannier rack bag. The best feature of this bag/rack system is the track. The bag has a plate on the bottom that inserts into a track on the rack. I can take the bag off with just a push of a button. I take the bag into the house when I'm loading it for my commute. I take my lunch in the rack bag and put a change of cloths in the fold out panniers. When I start touring I will opt for a better pair of panniers but for now, this works great for commuting.



I've been concentrating on getting the bike set up for commuting but now that it's done, I'm going to start getting items I'll need to do a week long tour. I've been looking at tents and other camping supplies as well as the Ortlieb Bike-Packer Plus Rear Waterproof Pannier



I will also ad an under seat rack with panniers. I've really enjoyed setting this bike up the way I want it and look forward to making it my perfect bike. This is a picture taken today on the Chinese Bridge at Deering Estate.



I'm glad you're enjoying the topic Ric. I hope you're getting lots of useful information.

On a personal note. I've been striving to break 100 miles in one week. Well today's ride put me at 105 miles and I've still got two commuting days left. If the weather holds out, I should gain another 36+ miles just commuting.

Bob
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Old 12-21-13, 04:20 PM   #31
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So, how many of you can live with the stock handlebars? I couldn't stand them. Too short and the wrist angles are all wrong. So I had some new ones made which are 4 1/2" longer and the wrist angles have been opened up. This solved my problems. Three months later Rans came out with their 3 way adjustable bars. Better solution, and much cheaper. The real problem is they are made to fit a fairing instead of fitting you. bk
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Old 12-21-13, 04:44 PM   #32
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Never had a problem with the stock bars..
A longer stem got the bars closer to me, found a like new used one for ten bucks,

Other mods,
The rear Avid BB7 disk brake gave me way more control and stopping power,
never could lock the rear wheel with the rim brake, I can now with ease.
The point just before lock up can now be controlled

The T-cycle center Idler made my drive train silent,

That Pump mount to the seat I want to do, my pumps in my seat bag now.
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Old 12-22-13, 07:57 PM   #33
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Bob;

I've enjoyed seeing the pics and reading about how you set up you Easy Sport. I like what you did. I did a little additional research on the Kenda Kwest tires that came on my CX and found that they contained wire beads as well, which helps explain how they are so resistant to flats also. I just reached 300 miles on my easy sport and my speed has come up as you indicated it would. I'm now riding in the 14 - 17 MPH range depending on conditions. So I think I am satisfied to get some more wear out of the kenda tires and down the road when they show some wear change them out and look at what you went with.

I've been making small adjustments to the Handle bar height, handle bar angle, seat distance, and seat back angle every since I got the bike. I wound up 2 inches further back than what the dealer started me out. As of today I have 300 miles on the bike and have made what I feel are my final adjustments and have it set up optimally for me. I think this helped increased my riding speed as well.


bkaapcke - so far I like the stock handle bars. I've been able to adjust them so they feel really good for me.


Actually, I like this bike a lot, and grow fonder of it the more I ride it. Now that I finally have it adjusted properly for me I'm looking forward to putting many more miles on it.
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Old 12-22-13, 08:55 PM   #34
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Kenda Kwest tires have a reputation for durability but wire beads have no effect on puncture protection.

Sheldon Brown explained beads:
'The "bead" is the edge of the tire. On most tires, the beads consist of hoops of strong steel cable. The beads hold the tire onto the rim, and are, in a sense, the "backbones" of a tire. While most beads are steel, some tires use Kevlar cord instead.'
http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
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Old 12-23-13, 07:27 AM   #35
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RicR,

Seat distance you mentioned,, from pedals right ? I started with the standard base line for DF bikes,

Your rear end all the way back in the saddle,
On the pedal at its farthest point from your hip,
Your heel on the pedal axle, (center) In your riding shoes,
Knee locked straight, Lock the seat postion,
now place the ball of your foot on that pedal,, a perfect base line knee angle you will have...

My Sun made Tour easy may have a lower seat that the Sport but this makes no difference.
Funny thing, this 'base line' setup was perfect for me, I have never had to change it......
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Old 12-23-13, 02:34 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JanMM View Post
Kenda Kwest tires have a reputation for durability but wire beads have no effect on puncture protection.

Sheldon Brown explained beads:
'The "bead" is the edge of the tire. On most tires, the beads consist of hoops of strong steel cable. The beads hold the tire onto the rim, and are, in a sense, the "backbones" of a tire. While most beads are steel, some tires use Kevlar cord instead.'
http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html
JanMM - Thank you for the information. I learned something I certainly did not know. I book marked the link as well for future reference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by osco53 View Post
RicR,

Seat distance you mentioned,, from pedals right ? I started with the standard base line for DF bikes,

Your rear end all the way back in the saddle,
On the pedal at its farthest point from your hip,
Your heel on the pedal axle, (center) In your riding shoes,
Knee locked straight, Lock the seat postion,
now place the ball of your foot on that pedal,, a perfect base line knee angle you will have...

My Sun made Tour easy may have a lower seat that the Sport but this makes no difference.
Funny thing, this 'base line' setup was perfect for me, I have never had to change it......
osco53, Yes, distance from the pedals. I started out where the LBS set me up. I knew it was to close but assumed they would not have me to far off, and not wanting to make major adjustments at one time I kept moving the seat back 1/4 inch at the time periodically. Wound up as of yesterday being 2 inches further back from the point I started. Just checked the distance using your procedure and I am exactly where you said with the leg straight with heel on the axis of the pedal. I guess if I had just asked the question about proper seat distance set up I would have saved myself a lot of time and headaches. Thank you for the information as it does confirm that I have the distance set up correctly now.
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Old 12-25-13, 06:30 AM   #37
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So, how many of you can live with the stock handlebars? I couldn't stand them. Too short and the wrist angles are all wrong. So I had some new ones made which are 4 1/2" longer and the wrist angles have been opened up. This solved my problems. Three months later Rans came out with their 3 way adjustable bars. Better solution, and much cheaper. The real problem is they are made to fit a fairing instead of fitting you. bk
bkaapcke, I've been thinking of longer bars. I really like the stock bars and they would work fine if they were only 4 inches longer. The angles work fine for me and overall they are comportable. But, my knees brush my wrists at the top of the crank stroke. I'm going to visit the LBS to see if we can talk Sun out of a set of bars for the XL Easy Sport. If not then I'll likely go with the Rans 3 way adjustable bars. At full extension the Rans bars are 4 inches longer than stock and would allow me more clearance for my knees. I would also like to recline the seatback a bit more and the longer bars would allow me to this as well.

Bob
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Old 12-26-13, 01:57 PM   #38
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Hello all,

I bought my first recumbent, a Sun Speedster CX, a little over a year ago. It served its purpose of familiarizing me with the recumbent experience, as well as helping me to understand which features I'd like to keep and which I'd like to change when I was ready to move on. I still have it, although I took the plunge with a Bacchetta Corsa a few months ago. I've found the Speedster to be heavy with an uncomfortable seat - since the seat pan angle isn't adjustable I always feel like I'm sliding forward. Nonetheless, I've had a few hundred enjoyable miles on it. Here it is on a tree-lined country road.

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Old 01-01-14, 06:10 PM   #39
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Hello all,

I bought my first recumbent, a Sun Speedster CX, a little over a year ago. It served its purpose of familiarizing me with the recumbent experience, as well as helping me to understand which features I'd like to keep and which I'd like to change when I was ready to move on. I still have it, although I took the plunge with a Bacchetta Corsa a few months ago. I've found the Speedster to be heavy with an uncomfortable seat - since the seat pan angle isn't adjustable I always feel like I'm sliding forward. Nonetheless, I've had a few hundred enjoyable miles on it. Here it is on a tree-lined country road.

Now that I have the seat angled back more on my EZ Sport I'm having a tendency to slide forward as well. Has anyone else experienced this and has anyone come up with a solution?
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Old 01-03-14, 09:21 AM   #40
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I have an old RANS Rocket, which similarly has a non-adjustable seat pan. You might try adding an extra piece of foam under the seat cover near the front to help keep you from sliding off, maybe sculpting the foam, or a different type of foam. I replace my original foam pad with a piece of much denser, memory-type foam, cut with scissors to fit. Much more comfortable!
Thanks for the advise Recumbomatic. If I'm able to get the longer handlebars, I hope to recline the back a bit more and the seat pan might become a problem. I've been running this through my head for a while and have a couple of ideas I want to try out.

On an unrelated note, I added fenders to the EZ Sport yesterday. They were intended for the Sport and they mostly fit fine. The front fender went on with no problem at all:



The rear fender was a bit more of a problem. The two elongated holes in the fender had to be lengthened in order to match up with the bike frame. Also the mounting at the top hole did not match the fender. I was worried about undue stress on the fender causing the fender to crack so I fashioned a neoprene wedge to help match the angles and give some shock relief to the fender. The problem is as much caused by the bike frame as the fender. Over all I'm happy with the installation and look of the fenders.


In this picture you can see the neoprene wedge


Bob
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Old 01-03-14, 01:42 PM   #41
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Thanks as well recombomatic.

Bob, the fenders look good. I would like to see another pic of the whole bike now that they are installed just to get a feel for how it all looks together.

Ric
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Old 01-04-14, 08:39 AM   #42
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Thanks as well recombomatic.

Bob, the fenders look good. I would like to see another pic of the whole bike now that they are installed just to get a feel for how it all looks together.

Ric
Ric, Here's the pic you wanted. I don't think the fenders look to bad. Since they're black, they don't stand out too much.



Here's were I got them. At only $34, I think they're a good addition to the Sport.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bob
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Old 01-05-14, 08:15 PM   #43
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Thanks as well recombomatic.

Bob, the fenders look good. I would like to see another pic of the whole bike now that they are installed just to get a feel for how it all looks together.

Ric
Ric, I took a ride out to Key Biscayne and Bill Baggs State Park today. How I managed to keep from getting rained on I'll never know. It absolutely poured as I was driving to my starting point and I could tell it was raining ahead of me as I was riding North, but I never got more than a sprinkle as I was riding. The rain left lots of water standing on the bike path and streets that couldn't be avoided, but narry a splash did I get from riding through any standing water. I feel like I've already gotten my moneys worth out of the fenders in just my first ride with them on the bike.

The EZ Sport at the foot of the Cape Florida Light House.



The ride was 38 miles total with my first hill/bridge to climb. I managed the assint going out and coming back but it showed me that I need to work on my hill climbing before I could do the Ride Virginia.



I can tell my legs got a good workout today, but it was a very enjoyable ride.

Bob
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Old 01-06-14, 09:59 AM   #44
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Ric, I took a ride out to Key Biscayne and Bill Baggs State Park today. How I managed to keep from getting rained on I'll never know. It absolutely poured as I was driving to my starting point and I could tell it was raining ahead of me as I was riding North, but I never got more than a sprinkle as I was riding. The rain left lots of water standing on the bike path and streets that couldn't be avoided, but narry a splash did I get from riding through any standing water. I feel like I've already gotten my moneys worth out of the fenders in just my first ride with them on the bike.

The EZ Sport at the foot of the Cape Florida Light House.



The ride was 38 miles total with my first hill/bridge to climb. I managed the assint going out and coming back but it showed me that I need to work on my hill climbing before I could do the Ride Virginia.



I can tell my legs got a good workout today, but it was a very enjoyable ride.

Bob
Bob, thanks for the pictures and the link. I agree the fenders make a nice addition and will probably give them a try. While I try to avoid riding in the rain, there are times when I have this same situation of wet roads after a rain. I'm envious of your weather right now, even with the rain. We had 60 degrees and overcast yesterday, so I got in a 20 mile ride, that was most enjoyable as well, but it was so overcast I didn't want to venture to far. However, it is going to drop into the teens tonight and the high tomorrow is only in the low 20's. Congratulations on crossing your first bridge. I have two near me I've been trying to get up the nerve to attempt. They are pretty heavily traveled, but there is a space between the outside of the road line, and the edge of the bridge, but it is littered with debris. However, I've seen other cyclist riding over them, so I'm sure it is only a matter of time before I give them a go. I also have a lot of work to do before I can do a tour as well, but hope to catch up in the spring. For now I look for breaks in the weather and ride when I can. Still have to do something about pedals, as my feet are occasionally sliping off and moving around. I really don't want to go to clip on, so I'm leaning toward those you posted in another thread, but I want to call them first before ordering. Thanks again, Ric
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Old 01-06-14, 03:07 PM   #45
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The Rickenbauker Causway Bridge

The bridge out to Key Biscayne is a very friendly bridge to ride or walk. The East bound side has a pedestrian/walking path that is separated from the roadway as well a bike path on the roadway. The West bound side has the same type of bike path but no walkway. It's kept very clean and well maintained. I rode the walkway side going East because I wasn't sure if I would be able to pedal all the way to the top the first time. On the way back I rode the bike path. I hit 30.4 mph on the downhill side. What a rush.

All of Key Biscayne is very bike and pedestrian friendly. They even have a lighted road sign when entering the City of Key Biscayne that warns motorists to yield to pedestrians. The roads are very wide and the main street through town has bike paths on both sides. The state park has paved paths as well as dirt for the adventurer. Most residents use bikes, golf carts and walk to were they're going if they aren't leaving the island. It's a bikers paradise. The batteries' in my camera were running low or I would have more pics of the ride through town. I've attached pics of the bridge and the bike path in the park. I'll be riding out there quite a bit now so I can work on riding up the bridge, so I'll get more pictures.

Bob



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Old 01-06-14, 07:09 PM   #46
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Very strange about the rearender not
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Old 01-07-14, 05:53 AM   #47
RicR
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Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
The bridge out to Key Biscayne is a very friendly bridge to ride or walk. The East bound side has a pedestrian/walking path that is separated from the roadway as well a bike path on the roadway. The West bound side has the same type of bike path but no walkway. It's kept very clean and well maintained. I rode the walkway side going East because I wasn't sure if I would be able to pedal all the way to the top the first time. On the way back I rode the bike path. I hit 30.4 mph on the downhill side. What a rush.

All of Key Biscayne is very bike and pedestrian friendly. They even have a lighted road sign when entering the City of Key Biscayne that warns motorists to yield to pedestrians. The roads are very wide and the main street through town has bike paths on both sides. The state park has paved paths as well as dirt for the adventurer. Most residents use bikes, golf carts and walk to were they're going if they aren't leaving the island. It's a bikers paradise. The batteries' in my camera were running low or I would have more pics of the ride through town. I've attached pics of the bridge and the bike path in the park. I'll be riding out there quite a bit now so I can work on riding up the bridge, so I'll get more pictures.

Bob



Keep the pics coming.. So we can enjoy them vicariously. What a great place to ride, especially in the winter.
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Old 01-12-14, 09:01 PM   #48
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Bob, you can raise the front of the seat a little by removing the seat base and loosening the front seat bracket quick release. I put a hard rubber washer under the front edge of the bracket which raised it about 1/4". That was enough to prevent sliding forward. If you need more lift, you can put wedges between the seat bracket and the plywood bottom of the seat base.

You will notice that the seat base mounting screws are in slots, so there is some forward/back adjustment of the base in relation to the seat back. Also, by keeping the seat back cover strap at lumbar height fairly tight, you actually get comfortable lumbar support.

I found the best way to fine tune the seat position in relation to the pedals was to get it as far back as possible but still be able to push off the seat back when climbing hills. This takes a few readjustments, but once you get it right on, it really is comfortable. Having this right also reduces sliding forward.

They really are wonderful seats. Happy riding. bk

Last edited by bkaapcke; 01-12-14 at 09:06 PM.
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Old 01-13-14, 02:17 PM   #49
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Bob, you can raise the front of the seat a little by removing the seat base and loosening the front seat bracket quick release. I put a hard rubber washer under the front edge of the bracket which raised it about 1/4". That was enough to prevent sliding forward. If you need more lift, you can put wedges between the seat bracket and the plywood bottom of the seat base.

. bk
BK, Thanks for this suggestion. I was able to make a 3/16 in. Plastic wedge out of some material I had and after loosening the front seat bracket quick release I was able to push it under the bracket on the frame with a wooden ruler, without having to take the seat bottom off. Took it for a 10 mile test ride and boy what a difference this small adjustment made. Did not slide forward at all and the bike finally feels and rides the way I think it should. Thanks again. Ric
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Old 01-13-14, 07:49 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by bkaapcke View Post
Bob, you can raise the front of the seat a little by removing the seat base and loosening the front seat bracket quick release. I put a hard rubber washer under the front edge of the bracket which raised it about 1/4". That was enough to prevent sliding forward. If you need more lift, you can put wedges between the seat bracket and the plywood bottom of the seat base.

You will notice that the seat base mounting screws are in slots, so there is some forward/back adjustment of the base in relation to the seat back. Also, by keeping the seat back cover strap at lumbar height fairly tight, you actually get comfortable lumbar support.

I found the best way to fine tune the seat position in relation to the pedals was to get it as far back as possible but still be able to push off the seat back when climbing hills. This takes a few readjustments, but once you get it right on, it really is comfortable. Having this right also reduces sliding forward.

They really are wonderful seats. Happy riding. bk
BK, your suggestion was exactly what I had in mind. Since I haven't changed the handlebars or the angle of the seat back I hadn't tried it until now. After reading your post I went out to the garage and made a 1-1/4 inch square by 1/4 in thick wedge out of a piece of neoprene I had laying around and put it under the mounting bracket and the frame. I've put over 500 miles on the bike and still making adjustments. I had been noticing that I'm moving around on the seat so I will see if the wedge helps. I've also moved the seat back another 1/4 inch. The seat is now back as far as it will go. I haven't tried out the new angle yet but will let you know how it works out for me after getting a good ride in. Might be the weekend before that happens. I'm fighting a cold right now and we are getting a "cold" (cold for South Florida) snap this week. Don't figure riding in 40 degree weather with a cold is a good idea.

On another subject. I've come to the conclusion that this bike offers everything I want in a bike so don't anticipate buying a "better" bike any time soon. So, I'm looking at upgrading this one. I've not been happy with the brakes on the bike. Yesterday I took the time to pull the brake pads and sand them. I also pulled the brake arms and greased the block stubs. I also cleaned the rims. The brakes may be a little better but I'm still not happy with their stopping power. I'm used to the stopping power of the 105's on my rode bike. I've ordered two pairs of Kool-Stop double compound pads that should be here Wednesday. I'll see if that improves the stopping power.

The bike has Shimano Avid single digit 5's on it. I'm wandering if there would be a noticeable difference in braking if I upgraded to Avid single digit 7's. If I do change the brakes I would also upgrade all the cables and housings as well.

Anyone have any experience with the upgrading of brakes that I'm contemplating? Is there a better brake that I should be looking at? Should I save my money and just upgrade the cables, housings and pads? I have no problem spending the money for the new brakes so don't let that influence your suggestions. Any suggestions should be a direct bolt on replacement.

Also, I would like suggestions for the best cables and housings available.

Here's pics of the current front brake.





Bob
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File Type: jpg DSCN0316.jpg (70.3 KB, 17 views)

Last edited by Balsawings; 01-13-14 at 07:51 PM. Reason: correct text
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