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  1. #1
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    Rear Wheel Removal Question?

    Had my first flat today on the EZ Sport. It was close to home and a slow leak, so I was able to pump it up and limp home, thank goodness. My question is how is the best way to manage this bike to remove and install the rear wheel? Do I flip it over on its seat back and bars? Lay it on its side with the chain up? Or is it best to try and hold the rear of the bike up to drop and install the rear wheel? The bike could be awkward to try and support from the rear so I wanted to know what others do, before I tackle this task. I should have thought this through earlier, but neglected to, and I am glad I didn't have to experiment on the side of the road. You suggestions are appreciated? Ric

  2. #2
    Free Velo Vol! Dudelsack's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RicR View Post
    Lay it on its side with the chain up?
    This.

  3. #3
    rebmeM roineS JanMM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dudelsack View Post
    This.

    Agreed.
    RANS V3 (steel), RANS V-Rex, RANS Screamer

  4. #4
    Senior Member BlazingPedals's Avatar
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    Option 2 or 3, whichever is easier for you. Don't turn it upside down, that'll be harder and you'll damage something.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    I don't know for sure exactly what your bike looks like.

    My general system is to hold the bike upright and pop the wheel off from the bottom. Then I lay the bike on it's side with the chain facing up while I mess with the flat. I'm also a believer in shifting into the smallest rear cog first to make aligning the chain easier when it's time to re-install the wheel.

    If you can up end your bike and make it stand stable I don't usually have a problem with inverting it. The exception has to do with the control cables. If they look like they are going to get in the way, don't do it because you risk kinking one of them. A kinked shift cable will screw up your indexing and will need to be replaced.
    My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.

  6. #6
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    Double kickstand and just leave it upright.
    Longbikes Slipstream

  7. #7
    The Recumbent Quant cplager's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wilbur Bud View Post
    Double kickstand and just leave it upright.
    This also makes it much easier to tune your drivetrain (if you have a RWD bike which I don't... ).
    http://Charles.Plager.net
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Aushiker's Avatar
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    With my one and only rear tyre flat (two on the front but) I turned the bike over but I am having trouble getting the wheel back into the frame. I think it needs a touch of spreading. That all said I like the idea of lying it on its side. I hadn't considered that before.

    Andrew

  9. #9
    Senior Member Aushiker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cplager View Post
    This also makes it much easier to tune your drivetrain (if you have a RWD bike which I don't... ).
    Roadside chain lubing when on tour



    Andrew

  10. #10
    Senior Member osco53's Avatar
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    I carry a length of light duty rope incase I need to tie something down, It has almost no weight....

    Lots of trees around me, lots of limbs to suspend the bike inches from the ground.

    I like the simplicity and lighter weight of my single jiffy stand..
    Last edited by osco53; 01-21-14 at 02:31 PM.
    Scott Aspect 940 29er, Tour Easy LE, Sun EZ-3 sx, Walmart Thruster :P

  11. #11
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    Thanks to all for the response and great suggestions. I like the rope idea and will get some in the event there is a tree limb near by, and if not first attempt will be to hold the bike upright until rear wheel is dropped and then lay bike on its side chain up, or if necessary lay the bike on its side chain up to remove the wheel. Ric

  12. #12
    Senior Member Balsawings's Avatar
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    Ric, This is actually something I hadn't thought of. I think I'll take some time tomorrow to experiment with the best way to pull the rear wheel on my bike. I would love to have one of the double kiskstands on the EZ Sport. It would make it much easier, but since it won't fit we don't have that option. I'll let you know how it comes out on my end and we'll compare notes.

    Bob

  13. #13
    Senior Member Balsawings's Avatar
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    DSCN0331.jpgDSCN0329.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by RicR View Post
    Thanks to all for the response and great suggestions. I like the rope idea and will get some in the event there is a tree limb near by, and if not first attempt will be to hold the bike upright until rear wheel is dropped and then lay bike on its side chain up, or if necessary lay the bike on its side chain up to remove the wheel. Ric
    Ric, The only way I would change the rear wheel/tire while the bike is laying on the ground is if there are no trees around. What a pain in the ***. It's do-able but it's tough. I then tried hanging the bike from a tree using 1/4 inch woven line. This proved to be a very satisfactory way of working on the bike. By tying the line to the top bar on each side the bike hangs level. For changing the rear wheel, just hang the bike so the rear wheel is 6 inches off the ground and it's just like working in a stand. I also used Velcro one strap to hold the front brake so the bike didn't move fore and aft. The line is now in my seat bag.


    Bob

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
    DSCN0331.jpgDSCN0329.jpg

    Ric, The only way I would change the rear wheel/tire while the bike is laying on the ground is if there are no trees around. What a pain in the ***. It's do-able but it's tough. I then tried hanging the bike from a tree using 1/4 inch woven line. This proved to be a very satisfactory way of working on the bike. By tying the line to the top bar on each side the bike hangs level. For changing the rear wheel, just hang the bike so the rear wheel is 6 inches off the ground and it's just like working in a stand. I also used Velcro one strap to hold the front brake so the bike didn't move fore and aft. The line is now in my seat bag.


    Bob
    Bob, I have to agree with you. I got my flat fixed today. Started out trying to hold it upright with one hand and remove the wheel with the other. The LWB kicked my butt. Since luckily I was at home and not beside the road, I propped the back wheel up by placing a stool under the bottom of the frame near the back. I still had to balance the bike but was able to drop the wheel and get the the chain off. The tire came off the rim easily, and I got the tube replaced and the tire mounted back on the rim with no problem. Pumped it up to about 50 lbs and realized I had not checked the rotation of the tire. I had a 50 % chance of getting it right, but wouldn't you know I didn't. So let the air out of the tire, removed the tire and tube and reversed the rotation and mounted it a second time. This time I had it correct and it inflated to 100 lbs psi with no problem. I was able to mount it back on the bike using the same stool for support and this time leaned the bike up against the wall for support and used 2 hands to mount the wheel. The wheel went on with no problems. Took it for a 20 mile ride this afternoon and it held up fine.

    While I had the tire and tube off the rim I noticed that the rim strip was only a thin piece of rubber sort of like a large rubber band around the rim. I think I need to replace this with something better. Also noticed the rims feel nice and light, but wonder if they are durable. I guess time will tell and something I will watch, but wondered what your thoughts of the stock rims are, as I am certainly not an expert? Also, While mounting the wheel and spinning it to be sure it was centered between the brake pads, I noticed it has gotten out of true quite a bit in the 470 miles I have ridden it thus far. So much so that I had to back off the adjustment at the brake lever all the way for the tire to rotate fully without rubbing on the pad. I called the shop where I bought it and I'm taking it in Tuesday and get them to true the wheel and check all the adjustments while there. A length of rope is also on my shopping list for tomorrow. Thanks for the feed back. Ric
    Last edited by RicR; 01-19-14 at 04:30 PM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member BlazingPedals's Avatar
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    When i have to take the rear wheel off while on a ride, I first loosen the Q/R skewer, then stand on the non-drive side and lift the rear end off the ground. With one hand, I pull the derailleur cage back, which releases the wheel to drop out of the dropouts. I set the wheel aside and then lie the bike on its side, preferably in grass. After working on the tire/wheel, I reverse the procedure. Wrap the chain on the correct sprocket to match the gear indicator on the shifter, and pull the derailler cage back. The wheel falls into the dropouts with only a little bit of extra guidance. I've found that sometimes it's easier to install the wheel if the skewer is completely removed. (Don't lose parts!) As the final step, lift the rear end off the ground using just the ends of the skewer to make sure the wheel is firmly seated where it belongs, then flip the lever closed.

    At no time would having the bike upside-down be an advantage.
    Last edited by BlazingPedals; 01-19-14 at 06:14 PM. Reason: edited to remove redundant sentence.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Balsawings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlazingPedals View Post
    When i have to take the rear wheel off while on a ride, I first loosen the Q/R skewer, then stand on the non-drive side and lift the rear end off the ground. With one hand, I pull the derailleur cage back, which releases the wheel to drop out of the dropouts. I set the wheel aside and then lie the bike on its side, preferably in grass. After working on the tire/wheel, I reverse the procedure. Wrap the chain on the correct sprocket to match the gear indicator on the shifter, and pull the derailler cage back. The wheel falls into the dropouts with only a little bit of extra guidance. I've found that sometimes it's easier to install the wheel if the skewer is completely removed. (Don't lose parts!) As the final step, lift the rear end off the ground using just the ends of the skewer to make sure the wheel is firmly seated where it belongs, then flip the lever closed.

    At no time would having the bike upside-down be an advantage.
    This is how I change the wheels on my DF's. Hadn't really thought about doing it the same way with the EZ Sport since it is so much longer and heavier. Probably how I will remove the wheel if there are no trees around.

    Thanks for your impute.

    Bob

  17. #17
    Senior Member Balsawings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RicR View Post
    While I had the tire and tube off the rim I noticed that the rim strip was only a thin piece of rubber sort of like a large rubber band around the rim. I think I need to replace this with something better. Also noticed the rims feel nice and light, but wonder if they are durable. I guess time will tell and something I will watch, but wondered what your thoughts of the stock rims are, as I am certainly not an expert? Also, While mounting the wheel and spinning it to be sure it was centered between the brake pads, I noticed it has gotten out of true quite a bit in the 470 miles I have ridden it thus far. So much so that I had to back off the adjustment at the brake lever all the way for the tire to rotate fully without rubbing on the pad. I called the shop where I bought it and I'm taking it in Tuesday and get them to true the wheel and check all the adjustments while there. A length of rope is also on my shopping list for tomorrow. Thanks for the feed back. Ric
    Ric, that small piece of rubber is typical for a rim strip. All it's there for is to keep the tube from rubbing against the spoke nipples. I've been told that the wheels on my bike a Velocity's. They are double walled and aluminum. The only markings on the wheel is a label that says "HJC alloy 6160-T6". I know that the 6160-T6 is the aluminum alloy the wheels are made of. I don't know what HJC stands for. I've been thinking about building new wheels for the bike using Velocity's A23 wheels. I have no problem with the wheels that are on the bike but just want to build a set with better hubs. Haven't figured out which hubs to use yet. I want something better than the Shimano Deour LX hubs but at the same time something easy to work and easy to get parts for when on tour.

    If you have the same wheels, then I don't think you have anything to worry about. They are good wheels. I'm having the same problem with the trueness of my wheels. When I put the new brake pads on, I noticed that both wheels are just a little out of true. I'm going back to the bike shop on Thursday and will have them take a look at them then.

    Bob

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlazingPedals View Post
    When i have to take the rear wheel off while on a ride, I first loosen the Q/R skewer, then stand on the non-drive side and lift the rear end off the ground. With one hand, I pull the derailleur cage back, which releases the wheel to drop out of the dropouts. I set the wheel aside and then lie the bike on its side, preferably in grass. After working on the tire/wheel, I reverse the procedure. Wrap the chain on the correct sprocket to match the gear indicator on the shifter, and pull the derailler cage back. The wheel falls into the dropouts with only a little bit of extra guidance. I've found that sometimes it's easier to install the wheel if the skewer is completely removed. (Don't lose parts!) As the final step, lift the rear end off the ground using just the ends of the skewer to make sure the wheel is firmly seated where it belongs, then flip the lever closed.

    At no time would having the bike upside-down be an advantage.
    Thanks for the response. I tried lifting the rear of the bike today and balancing it against my leg and reaching down to pull the derailleur cage back. The weight and size of the LWB EZ sport make it a little difficult it seemed, but I think with practice I could get it.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
    Ric, that small piece of rubber is typical for a rim strip. All it's there for is to keep the tube from rubbing against the spoke nipples. I've been told that the wheels on my bike a Velocity's. They are double walled and aluminum. The only markings on the wheel is a label that says "HJC alloy 6160-T6". I know that the 6160-T6 is the aluminum alloy the wheels are made of. I don't know what HJC stands for. I've been thinking about building new wheels for the bike using Velocity's A23 wheels. I have no problem with the wheels that are on the bike but just want to build a set with better hubs. Haven't figured out which hubs to use yet. I want something better than the Shimano Deour LX hubs but at the same time something easy to work and easy to get parts for when on tour.

    If you have the same wheels, then I don't think you have anything to worry about. They are good wheels. I'm having the same problem with the trueness of my wheels. When I put the new brake pads on, I noticed that both wheels are just a little out of true. I'm going back to the bike shop on Thursday and will have them take a look at them then.

    Bob
    Bob, thanks for all the information on the wheels. I was always under the impression that rim tape was a better option, but again, I'm no expert. Since I don't want to Hi Jack my own thread on removing the rear wheel, and the wheel issue is strictly related to Sun EZ Sport, I think I will open a new thread in the Sun Thread you started. Please look for my response there.

  20. #20
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
    I've been thinking about building new wheels for the bike using Velocity's A23 wheels. I have no problem with the wheels that are on the bike but just want to build a set with better hubs. Haven't figured out which hubs to use yet. I want something better than the Shimano Deour LX hubs but at the same time something easy to work and easy to get parts for when on tour.
    Butting in here -- first the A23 is a great choice. I'm starting to recommend them more and more for touring/rando type riding as they're proving to be incredibly durable for their weight. I believe part of that is due to the tubeless ready design, which in my understanding creates a much stronger sidewall and web (the inner wall of the rim). They build up beautifully too, if I may say so.

    For hubs, you might want to look at options from White Industries or Phil Wood, they are both US made and easily serviced. Extremely high quality with long, long service intervals too. Shameless plug: if you get the hubs, we can build them to A23's for you in house here at Velocity.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

  21. #21
    Senior Member Balsawings's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by seely View Post
    Butting in here -- first the A23 is a great choice. I'm starting to recommend them more and more for touring/rando type riding as they're proving to be incredibly durable for their weight. I believe part of that is due to the tubeless ready design, which in my understanding creates a much stronger sidewall and web (the inner wall of the rim). They build up beautifully too, if I may say so.

    For hubs, you might want to look at options from White Industries or Phil Wood, they are both US made and easily serviced. Extremely high quality with long, long service intervals too. Shameless plug: if you get the hubs, we can build them to A23's for you in house here at Velocity.
    Seely, I appreciate your chiming in. I want the best touring wheels possible and I really like the A23's. Your recommendation for the hubs is noted. I must admit that I'm leaning towards the Phil Wood hubs.

    I'm trying to figure out manufactured my wheels. The markings on the wheel is a label that says "HJC alloy 6160-T6". I know that the 6160-T6 is the aluminum alloy the wheels are made of. I don't know what HJC stands for. They are double wall with eyelets. Are these Velocity wheels or a different manufacture. I would like to purchase some Veloplugs if they are Velocity's. If not, will the plugs fit other wheels.

    Thaks

    Bob

  22. #22
    The Rabbi seely's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Balsawings View Post
    Seely, I appreciate your chiming in. I want the best touring wheels possible and I really like the A23's. Your recommendation for the hubs is noted. I must admit that I'm leaning towards the Phil Wood hubs.

    I'm trying to figure out manufactured my wheels. The markings on the wheel is a label that says "HJC alloy 6160-T6". I know that the 6160-T6 is the aluminum alloy the wheels are made of. I don't know what HJC stands for. They are double wall with eyelets. Are these Velocity wheels or a different manufacture. I would like to purchase some Veloplugs if they are Velocity's. If not, will the plugs fit other wheels.

    Thaks

    Bob
    No problem! None of our rims would be stamped "HJC", my guess would be that they're probably an OEM Asian manufacturer just from what I've seen Googling the name.

    You may be able to get away with using Veloplugs, regardless. If you have a way to accurately measure the inside holes, I can give you an idea of if they will work or not, but officially "we don't recommend using them with other manufacturers rims" though quite a few people do successfully.
    commuter turned bike mechanic turned commuter (also a Velocity USA employee, but this is my personal account)

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    so it's the smallest rear gear & large chainring?

    ps: if anyone needs help installing Honjo fenders - I'm NOT the one to ask .....

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