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  1. #1
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    Converting my Boyd Vitesse wheels to 11 speed

    I've had these great wheels for just over 3 years now, and I have been looking forward to getting them working on my new bike with the 6800 series 11 speed Ultegra. I have the older style hubs with 6 pawls, and have purchased the new freehub body to go on that converts it to 11 speed.

    According to Boyd's website, no re-dishing should be required after installing the 11 speed hub. After installing the new 11 speed hub, the wheel looked a little off in my frame. I checked it with the dishing tool, and it is indeed a few mm off, like the rim needs to be moved towards the drive side about 2 mm or so. Pretty sure the dishing was correct when the wheel was on my previous bike.

    A few things about my install. The dust cover from the original 10 speed hub was stuck onto the axel pretty well, and it appeared to be the same as the new dust cover included with the 11 speed hub, so I just left it on. Also, in the new 11 speed freehub, there was a thin washer between the dust cover and the outermost bearing of the freehub. I did not find this washer on the old hub. I did install the new 11 speed freehub with this thin washer in place.

    Anyone else do a conversion on a Vitesse wheel with the older style hub and find the dishing was off? Thinking about taking it apart and removing the washer and swapping the dust cover to see if it makes a difference. I know I can redish the wheel, but its a PITA because I get all anal doing it, making sure the tension is perfect and all. Hoping there is something simple that I am missing here...

  2. #2
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    Gee, I wonder if Coach Boyd could answer that question for you?
    Robert

    My hero: "Tar-Baby ain't sayin' nuthin'..." (Joel Chandler Harris, Uncle Remus")

  3. #3
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    Coach Boyd does provide great support, and I have contacted him about some issues in the past. I have not reached out to him about this yet, I wanted to see if someone on here had a similar experience with these wheels first.

  4. #4
    Coffin Dodger Pirkaus's Avatar
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    Why ask here when Boyd knows the correct answer?
    The 41 brain trust is no match for the man who make your wheels.
    Triples are for the weak and the old.........I guess that make's me both
    If you wait until you're ready, you will wait forever.

  5. #5
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    If you don't have to add any spacers that increase the over-locknut dimension (OLD) to make the freehub sit inside the OLD and the smallest cog and chain to not foul the chainstay, I don't see how you could need to redish.
    Robert

    My hero: "Tar-Baby ain't sayin' nuthin'..." (Joel Chandler Harris, Uncle Remus")

  6. #6
    Senior Member seymour1910's Avatar
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    I'm sure Boyd will find this thread sooner than later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    If you don't have to add any spacers that increase the over-locknut dimension (OLD) to make the freehub sit inside the OLD and the smallest cog and chain to not foul the chainstay, I don't see how you could need to redish.
    Yeah, it doesn't seem logical. Its like the interior workings of the freehub, where the axel goes thru, must be slightly wider on the new 11 speed hub. That makes me wonder if I should take that washer out, and maybe the new dust cover is not as thick as the old one...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlamb01 View Post
    Yeah, it doesn't seem logical. Its like the interior workings of the freehub, where the axel goes thru, must be slightly wider on the new 11 speed hub. That makes me wonder if I should take that washer out, and maybe the new dust cover is not as thick as the old one...
    But I'm telling you that if the lock nuts are in the same place, then the hub is sitting the same between the dropouts. And the rim hasn't moved between the dropouts, so it can't be needing to be redished. Dust cover and spacer on the freehub makes absolutely no difference.
    Robert

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  9. #9
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    But I'm telling you that if the lock nuts are in the same place, then the hub is sitting the same between the dropouts. And the rim hasn't moved between the dropouts, so it can't be needing to be redished. Dust cover and spacer on the freehub makes absolutely no difference.
    Correct. If it needs redishing now, then it did before too. Separate issue, unless you made changes to the axle itself. Put the wheel in backwards and see if the rim is off the other direction. Or remove the wheel and check it.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
    But I'm telling you that if the lock nuts are in the same place, then the hub is sitting the same between the dropouts. And the rim hasn't moved between the dropouts, so it can't be needing to be redished. Dust cover and spacer on the freehub makes absolutely no difference.
    I think I get what you are saying... I estimate the rim needs to be moved about 2mm towards the drive side now. So if I was dished perfectly before(did not check before I took the old hub off), that would mean that somehow I added 4mm of distance between the locknuts, on the drive side of the hub. If I had done that, I would have a hard time getting the wheel in the dropouts, right? It seems to fit in easy just like the factory wheel. I'm thinking I am going to put the old hub back on and check the dish to solve this mystery...

    I guess one thing that could explain it is that maybe my old 10 speed bike had 130mm between the rear dropouts, and my new 11 speed bike has 135?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlamb01 View Post
    I think I get what you are saying... I estimate the rim needs to be moved about 2mm towards the drive side now. So if I was dished perfectly before(did not check before I took the old hub off), that would mean that somehow I added 4mm of distance between the locknuts, on the drive side of the hub. If I had done that, I would have a hard time getting the wheel in the dropouts, right? It seems to fit in easy just like the factory wheel. I'm thinking I am going to put the old hub back on and check the dish to solve this mystery...

    I guess one thing that could explain it is that maybe my old 10 speed bike had 130mm between the rear dropouts, and my new 11 speed bike has 135?
    Uh, yeaaaah!
    Robert

    My hero: "Tar-Baby ain't sayin' nuthin'..." (Joel Chandler Harris, Uncle Remus")

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    Darn, this is going to bug me for the rest of the afternoon until I can get home and check it.

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    what it was like "before" is immaterial. if the new freehub was installed correctly and the rim needs to be centered in the stays, then that is what needs to be done (it's trivial job for a LBS or if one has built a wheel before), IMO. good luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mlamb01 View Post
    I've had these great wheels for just over 3 years now, and I have been looking forward to getting them working on my new bike with the 6800 series 11 speed Ultegra. I have the older style hubs with 6 pawls, and have purchased the new freehub body to go on that converts it to 11 speed.

    According to Boyd's website, no re-dishing should be required after installing the 11 speed hub. After installing the new 11 speed hub, the wheel looked a little off in my frame. I checked it with the dishing tool, and it is indeed a few mm off, like the rim needs to be moved towards the drive side about 2 mm or so. Pretty sure the dishing was correct when the wheel was on my previous bike.

    A few things about my install. The dust cover from the original 10 speed hub was stuck onto the axel pretty well, and it appeared to be the same as the new dust cover included with the 11 speed hub, so I just left it on. Also, in the new 11 speed freehub, there was a thin washer between the dust cover and the outermost bearing of the freehub. I did not find this washer on the old hub. I did install the new 11 speed freehub with this thin washer in place.

    Anyone else do a conversion on a Vitesse wheel with the older style hub and find the dishing was off? Thinking about taking it apart and removing the washer and swapping the dust cover to see if it makes a difference. I know I can redish the wheel, but its a PITA because I get all anal doing it, making sure the tension is perfect and all. Hoping there is something simple that I am missing here...
    I converted mine this year with the hub Boyd had on their website, and didn't seem to have any issues. I have put about 500 miles since the move to 11 spd. The dishing seemed to be ok when I moved it, I'll take a look when I get home later tonight.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan View Post
    what it was like "before" is immaterial. if the new freehub was installed correctly and the rim needs to be centered in the stays, then that is what needs to be done (it's trivial job for a LBS or if one has built a wheel before), IMO. good luck.
    True... It's just concerning when you follow the directions, and you don't get the right expected outcome.

  16. #16
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    Thing is, your wheel were not intended for 135 mm OLD dropouts. Could be the problem.
    Robert

    My hero: "Tar-Baby ain't sayin' nuthin'..." (Joel Chandler Harris, Uncle Remus")

  17. #17
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    This isn't an old bike, its a new Giant TCR Advanced with rim brakes. It was just a guess on my part that the rear dropouts happen to be spaced wider on this bike. Only thing I know for sure is that as it is now, the rim is not perfectly centered between the chainstays. Its off just enough where you can confirm it visually. If the tire were on the rim, I might not be able to notice.

  18. #18
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    No the Giant is 130 mm OLD. I thought you were saying it was 135, but I guess I misunderstoood.
    Last edited by rpenmanparker; 04-25-15 at 03:29 AM.
    Robert

    My hero: "Tar-Baby ain't sayin' nuthin'..." (Joel Chandler Harris, Uncle Remus")

  19. #19
    Senior Member Homebrew01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlamb01 View Post
    I think I get what you are saying... I estimate the rim needs to be moved about 2mm towards the drive side now. So if I was dished perfectly before(did not check before I took the old hub off), that would mean that somehow I added 4mm of distance between the locknuts, on the drive side of the hub. If I had done that, I would have a hard time getting the wheel in the dropouts, right? It seems to fit in easy just like the factory wheel. I'm thinking I am going to put the old hub back on and check the dish to solve this mystery...

    I guess one thing that could explain it is that maybe my old 10 speed bike had 130mm between the rear dropouts, and my new 11 speed bike has 135?
    You mean "cassette body", not "hub".
    Last edited by Homebrew01; 04-25-15 at 07:05 AM.
    Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike

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