D1andonlyDman

Fair point, I just would never pay that for a used Bikes Direct bike. In terms of how they actually ride, I don't think there's a heck of a lot of difference between those two Bikes Direct bikes in terms of actual performance. But I'll concede that the Ultegra group is worth more in the market.

dtrain

Am I allowed an opinion as well? That bike was one of BD's mid to higher end offerings. 6600 is good stuff and that bike has a lot of it (not the generic cranks, calipers, etc.). Unless it's been abused, it's considerably better than one of their current $400-450 offerings (IMO). I'm not suggesting $600, but I don't think offering $300-$350 on a $650 listing is typically productive.

D1andonlyDman

Of course you're entitled to an opinion. I agree that my initial comment on that bike might have been a bit low, and I also agree that I don't think most CL sellers would be willing take a $350 offer on a fairly new listing asking $650, but I still don't think the bike is worth more than $400 in the used market, when you can get a Trek bike that probably sold new for closer to $1000 for that price. I wasn't actually suggesting that the OP try to get that bike, when, IMHO, there is a Trek being offered that I feel is a better deal.

I also feel that there is an unquantified risk factor with buying a used Bikes Direct bike from on original buyer who recently got the bike and is bailing on it after claiming riding it just 10 times. My initial valuing of that bike at $300-350 probably reflected this a lot more than it reflected the worth of a full Ultegra group.

eightfingers

He came down to $425, so it's either I pick that one up or grab the Mirage S. Whatever you guys feel is best I am a noob when it comes to road bikes, unless they have a motor

Sidney Porter

I would take that bike for 425 assuming it fits. The are both BD bikes but the frame of the sprint is better with the carbon stays. Inspect the forks and stays for any crashes. It really comes down to groupset. The shimano line is
Tourney, Claris, Sora, Tiagra, 105, Ultegra, Dura Ace.

The trade off is new vs used. One bike has the new entry level while the other has 2nd from the top. I am going to assume that the BB and wheels are also better on the sprint.

D1andonlyDman

Well, if you can test ride it, and it fits well, and feels solid, it certainly does have the advantage of being an already put together bike that you can be confident is the right size for you. So if I were you, I'd give it a test ride and base your decision on how comfortable it feels for you. It's within your budget, and there's certainly something to be said for buying a bike you rode and felt good riding.

ColaJacket

It sounds like you're pretty mechanically inclined, so you can tell what condition it is in. If you like the condition, and it fits, then get the one that you can actually road test. Also, the used bike won't lose as much value as a new bike, even a BD bike. Because of those 2 factors, go for the CL bike.

GH

dtrain

+3 on that bike for $425. But that should be obvious given my previous posts.

If it fits and is in reasonably good condition, I think you've got a winner. Spin the wheels, inspect the frame, take a quick ride to feel it out, etc. Remember that stems can be changed pretty easily - so you'll have some flexibility from how the reach is currently set up.

Let us know.

dtrain

Good point on the resale value. Say you don't really like cycling. This bike has (for the most part) already depreciated and will still be worth close to $400 in a year or two. A new $400 one from BD will be worth $200-250. I don't typically endorse resale value as a major consideration...but it seems relevant here.

eightfingers

Thank you all. If this guy comes through I should be checking it out tomorrow some time and if it's in good condition I will pick it up. I am a little hesitant to buy an almost 10 year old bike, but that'll just go with my 05 z1000 nicely.

I assume I'm looking for cracks in welds, wheel wobble, signs of abuse/dropped, frayed cables, etc. Anything specifically I see I should walk away from? (besides frame cracks)

Then when I do get it, what should I do maintenance wise?

D1andonlyDman

All of those, except for frayed cables. Those may be either trivially unimportant, say, for example, fraying at the end of a cable after it's mounting point to the derailleur or brake calipers (My Tommasini has one of those, I just haven't bothered to replace the cable end crimp that fell off) - or even if the fraying is within the working part of the cableing, they are easily and cheaply replaced. Wheel wobble could run the gamut to requiring just minor truing (probably costs $20 or so at your LBS), up to replacing the wheel. Cracks to the structure of the frame joints are of course, walk-away items. As opposed to paint scratches, which are not. Tires may need to be replaced. That's not the end of the world, but figure ~$25 for each tire + tube that needs replacing.

Another thing to look for, on a bike that the owner claims was hardly used, is rust on the chains and rear cogs. While not fatal, it basically implies about $50-$80 in replacement parts being needed.

If the bike is really as lightly used as claimed, it probably requires nothing more than air in the tires and light lubricating of the drivetrain to be fully rideable.

ColaJacket

I saw where somebody in another thread mentioned trying to gently flex the bicycle frame and fork in several ways. The bicycle should flex, but listen to it both when you flex it an when you release the pressure for odd sounds. Ride it, go through all the gears. Try both brakes. Check the tires. Plus the things that you mentioned.

I'd think that a road bike needs the same type of maintenance as a MTB, but it doesn't get treated as roughly. Most of the maintenance is going to be on the wheels, brakes, and drivetrains.

GH

rms13

Yes. Signs of abuse/crashes/frame failure: Cracks. Scratches on frame and components are sign it's been crashed dropped. Large dents in tubes.

I would expect to replace cables, tires, tubes and doing a tune up when buying a used bike. Wheel wobble may or may not be a problem and that is a tricky area for a new rider to determine on a short inspection. Wobble could just need a simple wheel true that you could do yourself or pay shop $10-20 to do or it could be a rim bent beyond repair that you end up having to buy a new wheel/wheels and you immediately have a $100+ investment on top of normal tuning/maintenance.

eightfingers

Also I guess I need pedals and shoes? What am I looking at for those? Another 200?

Ayers

Just last week I got a pair of Shimano brand shoes and a pair of Shimano SPD-SL pedals (540 series) delivered for 103 dollars total from Wiggle.

ColaJacket

Not necessarily.

You can ride a road bike with MTB shoes and SPD pedals. A lot of newbies do that (smile!).

I got some pretty good MTB shoes and a SPD pedals for my bike for about $150.

If you've been riding MTB for a while, do you already have some MTB shoes? If so, just get some pedals, and use the shoes you have.

I'm guessing you already have a helmet, gloves, and shorts?

GH

eightfingers

I currently ride w/flat pedals with pins. I've never gotten into the whole click in riding.

I also do not have a helmet or biking specific shorts. (I know, I should have had a helmet years ago)

I do have some thin motorcycle gloves I use when I ride... The whole glove situation is a little hard for me as I really only do have 8 fingers.

ColaJacket

There's no reason why you can't do that on a road bike. I did for my first 3 weeks. I did find that the clipless pedals/shoes did help me on climbing, in that I could spin better without slipping. Also, the stiffer sole on the shoe helped too.

GH

eightfingers

I am really digging both of these, if only my budget would allow it!
Cannondale IronMan 800 Triathalon Bike

2012 Fuji Roubaix 2.0, EXCELLENT Condition, with upgrades

dtrain

That Fuji is pretty nice. What happened with the used Motobecane...did you check it out?

eightfingers

I never had the time to get out this weekend with Mothers day and all to check out the Motobecane. Also, it doesn't interest me nearly as much as the two I linked above. Maybe its the eye candy factor, the motobecane just doesn't have it. I'm also leery of a 10 year old bike.

eightfingers

What would you think is max offer on that Fuji? I might be able to scrounge up some more funds.

dtrain

I wouldn't be too leery of hardly-ridden 10yo 6600.

That said, none of these bikes are pocket change...you have to be excited about what you are getting.

IDK about the Fuji - maybe $500? Maybe a touch more if the fit and condition are nearly perfect?

wvridgerider

Nice build, I am with you. Build your own.