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    Senior Member tmh657's Avatar
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    Lightweight clincher wheels- Stans ZTR Alpha Pro 340 vs Dura Ace 9000 C-24 ??

    My Easton EA90 SLX wheels are going to need replacing soon. I am looking to get a lightweight clincher/tubeless wheel set in the 1400 gram range and have narrowed it down to the thread title for sub $1000 wheels. Any opinions/suggestions/experience? Much appreciated. I weigh 165 FWIW and tubeless is not really necessary.
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    Senior Member robabeatle's Avatar
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    I'm riding the 340s, Cxray spokes, DA front hub, PT rear hub. Since Sept, raced on em, no problems. Oh and tubeless btw.

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    Senior Member tmh657's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input. Anyone else?
    1981 Trek 716
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    2013 Cannondale Super Six Evo Hi-Mod

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    Senior Member Tunnelrat81's Avatar
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    I'm not a huge fan of non-standard spoke/nipples, but given the super-light rim weight and low spoke count, I'd choose the D/A wheels I think. The rims are light, but they are greatly thickened at the nipple, and thin everywhere else. Smooth profile spoke bed and very lightweight rims like the stans make me a nervous about eventual rim cracking. Plus, if you're not using them for tubeless, you probably don't want to fuss with a tubeless specific design given the added difficulty of mounting tires etc. (I don't know if the non-tubeless D/A rims share the same interior profile as their tubeless variant, but if they're different, that's another reason to get the D/A).

    In addition to this, as far as quality hubs go, it's hard to beat shimano. Shimano (D/A only) and White Industries are the only companies who use Ti freehub bodies, which really is convenient when it comes to changing cassettes.

    -Jeremy

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    The non-tubeless Shimano C24 rims have the same profile but I believe are drilled for spokes. Mounting tires is a bear on the tubeless ones.

    Beyond that the wheels are light and reliable. And Shimano DA hubs are basically the best in the industry. You really can't go wrong with Shimano. Not sure what the price difference is, but the C24's are certainly more proven than lightweight Stan's (although the Stan's mountain/cross wheels have excellent reputations). If one is significantly cheaper that would be a strong argument.

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    Senior Member ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tunnelrat81 View Post
    . Shimano (D/A only) and White Industries are the only companies who use Ti freehub bodies, which really is convenient when it comes to changing cassettes.

    -Jeremy
    Sooooooo . . . why is it more convenient to change a cassette on a Ti freehub body?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkinHawaii View Post
    Sooooooo . . . why is it more convenient to change a cassette on a Ti freehub body?
    Cassette doesn't dig gouges in the freehub shell.

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    Senior Member dvdslw's Avatar
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    Given the two choices, the C24's all day long. Shimano makes some of the best wheels out there and have proven themselves time and time again. The only gripe you ever hear about them is finding a spoke if needed because they use proprietary spokes but hey here's an idea, buy some extra spokes at the time of purchase so there's no problem and chances are you'll never need them at your weight. I've never been a fan of the Stan's wheels for a road bike, they just look as though they should be on a mtb, and have read several reviews about them needing to be trued often. I've spent the last year or so looking for a new set of wheels to replace my Ultega 6700's only because I wanted something different and ended up going with a set of Reynolds Assaults just because I always wanted a set of carbon clinchers and the timing was right. I did however plan on buying a set of lightweight 1400g wheels instead so I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what I wanted. The C24's were always on my radar because of their value and so were these sets;

    Industry Nine I25's (Hed Belgium rim laced to I9's killer hub) i25TL (Clincher
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    Senior Member Tunnelrat81's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClarkinHawaii View Post
    Sooooooo . . . why is it more convenient to change a cassette on a Ti freehub body?
    I've seen cassettes jammed so tightly into the splines on a friends freehub body that he had to use a hammer to break the cassette loose for removal. If this was my repair job, it would make me very uncomfortable. As a general rule, I don't like using hammers during bike repairs. And in many cases, badly gouged bodies need to be filed down in order to slide the new cassette into place. Sure, they're replaceable in most cases by buying a new freehub, but the hassle in the mean time can be avoided by using the two above mentioned hubs. Not necessary for sure, but convenient.

    -Jeremy

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    Senior Member tmh657's Avatar
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    Looks like some C-24's are the one's. I have never used a tubeless rim so here is a newbie question. I have done some research and it seems you don't have to use tubeless tires. Is this correct? A tire and tube on a tubeless rim?
    1981 Trek 716
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    Senior Member ClarkinHawaii's Avatar
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    correct--can be used with or without tube

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    Senior Member dvdslw's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmh657 View Post
    Looks like some C-24's are the one's. I have never used a tubeless rim so here is a newbie question. I have done some research and it seems you don't have to use tubeless tires. Is this correct? A tire and tube on a tubeless rim?
    The C24's come two different ways, The C24CL's are clincher only and the C24TL's are clincher/tubeless compatible. I would get the TL's just to have the tubeless option later.

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    The tubeless version doesn't need rim tape either.

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