Custom builds where to start?
06-13-15, 10:48 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 14
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Custom builds where to start?
How do you guys do custom builds? I want to do a custom build but don't know what order to do things. Do I get fit from shop first so I know what components to buy? Some parts will come off old bike and others I'll be buying off eBay. I can't afford to pay full LBS prices on everything. Or do I build bike to match old bike as best as I can and then get a fitting to make small adjustments and switch out a stem or seatpost as needed? I will be starting off with the frame and I know what size fits me. So what I'm worried about is filling everything in from there.
06-13-15, 11:13 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
choose a builder first. he or she and you can then decide on what parts you'll be using. the builder will then build appropriately.
06-13-15, 12:02 PM
#4
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,025
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 560 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22570 Post(s)
Liked 8,918 Times
in
4,152 Posts
06-13-15, 12:04 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
hueyhoolihan means a frame builder. But that doesn't sound like what you are doing. If you can afford a fit, and aren't sure without it, go for it. Otherwise you should know your frame size. Crank length and bar width shouldn't be different from what you are riding unless you are unhapoy. Stem length is really the only question.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 06-13-15 at 12:30 PM.
06-13-15, 12:06 PM
#6
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,025
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 560 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22570 Post(s)
Liked 8,918 Times
in
4,152 Posts
06-13-15, 12:14 PM
#7
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Delaware shore
Posts: 13,556
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1104 Post(s)
Liked 2,167 Times
in
1,459 Posts
This thread is confusing. I think the OP is buying a stock frame and putting on a mix of components from ebay, LBS, and old bike.
If so I agree with Datlas that the OP probably is better finding a deal on a complete bike from a LBS
If so I agree with Datlas that the OP probably is better finding a deal on a complete bike from a LBS
06-13-15, 12:25 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 13,439
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4217 Post(s)
Liked 2,940 Times
in
1,800 Posts
Donor bikes (broken frames or frames of sizes that don't fit but have the parts you want that you get a great deal on) are the way to go. Also, the UK shops for groupsets. Sounds like you don't know what size frame to buy, so maybe this is more than you want to bite off as a first timer.
__________________
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),1990 Concorde Aquila(hit by car while riding), others in build queue "when I get the time"
Bikes: 1996 Eddy Merckx Titanium EX, 1989/90 Colnago Super(issimo?) Piu(?),
06-13-15, 12:38 PM
#9
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
Most people assemble ("build") their own bikes because they want a specific frame and specific parts. If you don't know what you want, then I'm not sure there's a practical reason to do it.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
06-13-15, 01:41 PM
#10
~>~
I treat it as a Project with a clear statement of Scope, Requirements, Budget and Timeline.
If you can't define each element precisely your bike build project is likely to fail, and having someone else do it for you it is certain to fail.
-Bandera
If you can't define each element precisely your bike build project is likely to fail, and having someone else do it for you it is certain to fail.
-Bandera
06-13-15, 10:57 PM
#11
Fresh Garbage
This right here. There is no reason to build up a bike if you don't already know what you want. Also keep in mind this might end up costing more than a complete bike.
06-13-15, 11:57 PM
#12
ka maté ka maté ka ora
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: wessex
Posts: 4,423
Bikes: breezer venturi - red novo bosberg - red, pedal force cg1 - red, neuvation f-100 - da, devinci phantom - xt, miele piste - miche/campy, bianchi reparto corse sbx, concorde squadra tsx - da, miele team issue sl - ultegra
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
if you don't know what you want, you aren't ready. it's a self-authorizing language.
06-14-15, 12:46 AM
#13
:)
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,420
Bikes: Cannondale CAAD12, Specialized Rockhopper, Norco Fluid FS1
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 127 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
2 Posts
If you're assembling your own bike, take your original budget and double it. Probably going to get you closer to what you're actually going to be paying.
Not a concrete rule, but it's not completely incorrect.
Not a concrete rule, but it's not completely incorrect.
06-14-15, 07:00 AM
#14
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,843
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 927 Times
in
612 Posts
Assembling your own bike can get you more bike per $ in certain cases if you shop around, will accept some used parts and some NOS parts. In my case, I bought a slightly used frame, components a couple years old, but new, some generic 50 mm carbon tubular rims, and built my own wheels. I think it's "better" than an equivalent new bike for $1300. It has the drivetrain & wheels that I want. But it's not "new", does not have the most up-to-date parts, or have a warranty.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Last edited by Homebrew01; 06-14-15 at 07:18 AM.
06-14-15, 07:09 AM
#15
In the wind
It is easier to do if you already have a parts bin full of useful stuff. This usually results from riding and fixing lots of bikes, which has the helpful side-effect of learning what you want in a bike.
06-14-15, 07:20 AM
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Assembling your own bike can get you more bike per $ in certain cases if you shop around, will accept some used parts and some NOS parts. In my case, I bought a slightly used frame, components a couple years old, but new, some generic 50 mm carbon tubular rims, and built my own wheels. I think it's "better" than an equivalent new bike for $1300. It has the drivetrain & wheels that I want. But it's not "new", does not have the most up-to-date parts, or have a warranty.
06-14-15, 07:20 AM
#17
I'm doing it wrong.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,875
Bikes: Rivendell Appaloosa, Rivendell Frank Jones Sr., Trek Fuel EX9, Kona Jake the Snake CR, Niner Sir9
Mentioned: 85 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9742 Post(s)
Liked 2,812 Times
in
1,664 Posts
If you have a few parts already, and have the frame, all you have to do is fill in the rest of the components to get your bike. The actual act of putting it all together isn't all that hard as long as you follow some directions and use appropriate torque/grease. Don't cut your brake cables/housing too short and make sure you get the right/correct headset and bottom bracket size. You might wind up buying several different sizes of stems and maybe a different handlebar shape over the course of the build...these things happen. You can't really tell exactly what you need until you build the bike up, get on it and ride. I went through two stems and two saddles on my last build to get the right length and comfort right.
I bought a complete component group for my build, and that is usually the way I like to do it. It gives you most of the parts you will need and you know they are going to work right together. Get the cassette and the chain rings that are right for the terrain you are going to ride in. Mine was the standard 50/34 and 11x28 and it seems to work pretty well for me.
I usually "build" my bikes from parts because it affords me the ability to buy and hide parts/frame from my wife over the course of time. She keeps me on a tight money leash, so....I do what I can. I also get the bike with the parts I want instead of purchasing a complete bike and then go about replacing parts I don't want.
But, honestly...if I were going to buy a new 2nd road bike today I would probably go to the local bike shop, a trek dealer, and buy a complete mid range Domane or Emonda and swap my current wheels with the stock ones. Those are pretty good bikes with good parts spec and it will come in somewhat cheaper with less hassle.
I bought a complete component group for my build, and that is usually the way I like to do it. It gives you most of the parts you will need and you know they are going to work right together. Get the cassette and the chain rings that are right for the terrain you are going to ride in. Mine was the standard 50/34 and 11x28 and it seems to work pretty well for me.
I usually "build" my bikes from parts because it affords me the ability to buy and hide parts/frame from my wife over the course of time. She keeps me on a tight money leash, so....I do what I can. I also get the bike with the parts I want instead of purchasing a complete bike and then go about replacing parts I don't want.
But, honestly...if I were going to buy a new 2nd road bike today I would probably go to the local bike shop, a trek dealer, and buy a complete mid range Domane or Emonda and swap my current wheels with the stock ones. Those are pretty good bikes with good parts spec and it will come in somewhat cheaper with less hassle.
06-14-15, 07:43 AM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Alpharetta, GA
Posts: 15,280
Bikes: Nashbar Road
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2934 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
228 Posts
Sorry for the delicate question but do you have some unusual physical challenges? If so, it makes sense to get a fitting and then design your build to match.
Otherwise it's pointless to go into a bike shop first. Build the bike, ride it and then decide how to tweak your position on the bike. Let me emphasize "position" because that's what you're really looking for, not "fit". Your preferred positions change depending on how you want to ride, what bike you're on, how strong you are, and other individual factors.
The bigger issue, for me was making sure that everything was compatible and worked together. To start, build it on paper first, leaving nothing out. Then if you're inclined compare the result to similar bikes from Bikes Direct or Bikes Island.
Otherwise it's pointless to go into a bike shop first. Build the bike, ride it and then decide how to tweak your position on the bike. Let me emphasize "position" because that's what you're really looking for, not "fit". Your preferred positions change depending on how you want to ride, what bike you're on, how strong you are, and other individual factors.
The bigger issue, for me was making sure that everything was compatible and worked together. To start, build it on paper first, leaving nothing out. Then if you're inclined compare the result to similar bikes from Bikes Direct or Bikes Island.
