Bike Weight Reduction and Getting Faster
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Hmmm, so if a full 6lbs reduction isnt super significant, why do people on this forum fuss about shaving off a few grams by switching out bottle cages/handlebars/etc.? Seems a little overkill unless you're Sir Wiggins going for an hour record. I am obviously new here, so I may be off base with my assessment...
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If that math is correct, that's actually fairly significant. "Significant" is a subjective term, but if you aren't just buying a new bike to commute to school or work, or tool around the neighborhood, then that actually is a lot. Also, you can't really take into account the performance of the bike, which certainly will have some additional effect.
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Depends on what you consider significant. According to Richard Schwinn it takes 12 pounds to make a 1 mph difference(I'm assuming that's on level terrain), so I would think 5-6 pounds climbing is enough for most people to notice. Even so, it will probably feel like it's making more of a difference than it actually is.
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My bike recently gained weight. Almost 3/4 of a lb in fact. This came from a saddle swap, thicker (Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm) bar tape, going from 23mm tires to 25mm, and a few other nick knacks.. A bunch of little things that added up, but I didn't even notice the weight had gone up. What I did notice was how much nicer the new tape, saddle, and tires are to ride. I think it was a decent trade-off.
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I would argue that unless you are on top form, I mean really high level of fitness, physical limits will vary so wildly from friend to friend that its highly unlikely that 6lbs will change the outcome of anything. you are better off making certain that everything on your bike is in perfect working order.
I'm not sure making your bike work properly is at odds with making it lighter.
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I wonder if your Sora stuff could be tuned up to shift a little better -- one shouldn't have to go electronic to get decent shifting, although I'm sure it's nice stuff to use.
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Each time we enter a hilly race we are at 'x' level of fitness. At that level, whatever it may be, we will likely at some point be subjected to an attack or acceleration and either keep the wheel or not. If it takes 520w, and you can only make 500, you will be dropped. Six pounds can make that difference, maybe - I'm not going to do the math. When that happens you will have a long, lonely ride by yourself but perhaps your spirits will be buoyed by thoughts of your healthy bank account and happy spouse.
I'm not sure making your bike work properly is at odds with making it lighter.
I'm not sure making your bike work properly is at odds with making it lighter.
#33
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Right on. I'm always curious, because some folks who ask about lighter components could stand to lose a bike's worth of weight off their ass.
I wonder if your Sora stuff could be tuned up to shift a little better -- one shouldn't have to go electronic to get decent shifting, although I'm sure it's nice stuff to use.
I wonder if your Sora stuff could be tuned up to shift a little better -- one shouldn't have to go electronic to get decent shifting, although I'm sure it's nice stuff to use.
Easier said to cyclists than unknowing parents! As a 21 year old, it'll take me a decent amount to save up for the bike first
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I figured, not sure if I could really drop much more weight, I'm fairly thin in comparison to my height as it is! I thought the same thing about my Sora, I have brought my bike to 2 seperate LBS and tried having them tune up the groupset and they cleaned and oiled everything with very minimal difference. I figure at this point I will continue to ride almost daily, and its a worthwhile investment to make.
Easier said to cyclists than unknowing parents! As a 21 year old, it'll take me a decent amount to save up for the bike first
Easier said to cyclists than unknowing parents! As a 21 year old, it'll take me a decent amount to save up for the bike first
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As said previously, I am 21 years old and without unlimited income. I have seen several recent forum posts about the new-found higher reliability of Chinese carbon wheels, is this accurate? I have seen some sets going for around $300 on various websites. If these are reliable, I would much rather spend $300 than $600-700 for virtually the same thing.
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We're not talking about grams here, we're talking about 6 pounds.
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Better fitness is always better, but we always only have what we have. As an example: my teammate Mark has a very good sprint, he will beat me every time. I can climb much better, I will beat him on every hill. If he stays with me on the climb, he wins. If we're at a stage race, he can win the crit, do a good flat TT, and then maybe he only needs to hang on to my wheel in the RR. Are you starting to see how the logic plays out? Maybe you would tell him he only needs to have more in the 'bank', but at the end of the race we did what we could with what we had when we started.
We're not talking about grams here, we're talking about 6 pounds.
We're not talking about grams here, we're talking about 6 pounds.
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As said previously, I am 21 years old and without unlimited income. I have seen several recent forum posts about the new-found higher reliability of Chinese carbon wheels, is this accurate? I have seen some sets going for around $300 on various websites. If these are reliable, I would much rather spend $300 than $600-700 for virtually the same thing.
Vuelta Corsa Lite Road Wheelset
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Some of those actually aren't all that light, especially the deep aero wheels. Braking with carbon rims sucks. Your wheelset is probably heavy, over 2000 grams I imagine. Looks for a lightweight aluminum wheelset like these, on sale for like $200:
Vuelta Corsa Lite Road Wheelset
Vuelta Corsa Lite Road Wheelset
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Would you venture to say the decreased weight of the aluminum rim would provide better performance than the increased aero of a carbon rim? Also, what makes the braking any different on a carbon rim vs aluminum? Thank you for the wheel suggestion by the way, I really appreciate you going out of your way to search for those!
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If anyone has more input on the subject, I am very open to suggestions as well!
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Hmmm, so if a full 6lbs reduction isnt super significant, why do people on this forum fuss about shaving off a few grams by switching out bottle cages/handlebars/etc.? Seems a little overkill unless you're Sir Wiggins going for an hour record. I am obviously new here, so I may be off base with my assessment...
Until you have the lightest bike, you can blame it on the bike. That is why I say go for the upgrades. Buy the lightest stuff so you have no excuses but the one in the mirror.
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Tiny people just had to have some place to lord it over the normal-sized folks. When two people have essentially the same average power over a 1 mile, 7% climb and for one that means they're 15/240 and for the other 104/240 on the Strava segment that's oppression and should be illegal! hehe
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Yes. If the new bike makes you happy and there by you think your faster then you will be faster. Eventually you will be a lot faster because you will ride more. But actually no.
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Does it matter all that much to be 20 seconds faster on a 20 minute climb, especially if it costs thousands of dollars? If you are racing then I can see why. Besides, aero is always (almost) faster unless the course is a net uphill thats really really steep.
If you have the money to spend, and it'll make you ride more and make you happy and healthier then I say go for it.
If you have the money to spend, and it'll make you ride more and make you happy and healthier then I say go for it.
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No, you will actually have to exert less watts to go a given speed. You can buy "speed" by reducing your weight and drag.
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If that math is correct, that's actually fairly significant. "Significant" is a subjective term, but if you aren't just buying a new bike to commute to school or work, or tool around the neighborhood, then that actually is a lot. Also, you can't really take into account the performance of the bike, which certainly will have some additional effect.
I think that's a little high. I ran it on Kruezooter, assuming 8% grade (which would increase the difference, and assumed 300 watts. The results with those assumptions are 8 seconds a mile.
Meaningful difference in a race. On a 5 mile climb it might be the difference with staying in contact with the pack and not, but riding recreationally, hardly noticeable.
Also OP, are you sure about that 15.5lb weight. With pedals, it may not be quite as big of difference as you're thinking. Real world bike weights tend to be higher than advertised.
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I think that's a little high. I ran it on Kruezooter, assuming 8% grade (which would increase the difference, and assumed 300 watts. The results with those assumptions are 8 seconds a mile.
Meaningful difference in a race. On a 5 mile climb it might be the difference with staying in contact with the pack and not, but riding recreationally, hardly noticeable.
Also OP, are you sure about that 15.5lb weight. With pedals, it may not be quite as big of difference as you're thinking. Real world bike weights tend to be higher than advertised.
Meaningful difference in a race. On a 5 mile climb it might be the difference with staying in contact with the pack and not, but riding recreationally, hardly noticeable.
Also OP, are you sure about that 15.5lb weight. With pedals, it may not be quite as big of difference as you're thinking. Real world bike weights tend to be higher than advertised.
Same speed, about 3% less power. Same power, about 3% more speed. At 8-10 mph the aero drag doesn't count for much.
If it's strictly about weight, that makes it pretty clear cut. If the cost of shedding 5.5 pounds is worth it for 3% extra power on the hill, then go for it.