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BB30 to GXP shim problem

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BB30 to GXP shim problem

Old 06-24-15, 06:56 AM
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Screw it. I put the Cannondale BB30 crank back on, I'll just have to get a new Stages power meter for it. It'll wind up costing me a little more but the whole thing will be lighter, stiffer, I can finally switch to mid-compact rings (110bcd), and I won't have to mess with adapters. Thanks for all your help guys. Hopefully others will read this in the future when they will inevitably need the same help.
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Old 06-24-15, 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
That's what I'm saying. Damn it.
How about this: BB30 Outboard Angular Contact BB for 24/22mm Cranks (SRAM, Truvativ, Etc.) - Black

Would this work?
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Old 06-24-15, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by dalava
It might. That actually looks pretty promising but I'm probably not going to find out
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Old 06-24-15, 08:11 AM
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Well a Stages Power meter retails for $700...no doubt you can find it for less. But to not use your existing Power Meter because you have the wrong Wheel Mfg Adapters just seems silly to me when $25 gets you back on the road. $25 adapters versus $700 Stages Power Meter.
Good luck
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Old 06-24-15, 09:53 AM
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Hi,

I have not read all the replies, tldr. But maybe I can help.

I work in a shop that sells cdales, and I have an EVO with a wheelsmfg adpater running a gxp crank.

Firstly, make sure you have the right adapter, there is pf30 and bb30. EVO uses pf30, which is the press in plastic/alu cup. bb30 bearings press direct in the the frame's alloy shell with circlips to hold them in place.

Next, the stock wheelsmfg adapter requires the use of flat spacers to take up the slack, but these are no good, they don't hold bearing preload good enough.

They can be too tight, like your case in the first post.

Or too loose, causing creaks.

This is why most pressfit systems rely on a wavy washer to provide correct bearing preload.

So what I did on my bike is to use all the adapter without any slim washers, and take up the slack with a 24mm wavy washer on the drive side. This has worked well for me. I place it on the drive side to get the Q factor even.

You can buy this 24mm washer from a SRAM dealer, as this is the washer used for pressfit gxp.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-24-15, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Campag4life
Well a Stages Power meter retails for $700...no doubt you can find it for less. But to not use your existing Power Meter because you have the wrong Wheel Mfg Adapters just seems silly to me when $25 gets you back on the road. $25 adapters versus $700 Stages Power Meter.
Good luck
I already have a Stages power meter. So selling that one and using the money to buy the Cannondale one won't cost me much. Not to mention I could get my preferred length of 172.5 this way too. And not mess with adapters, and it's lighter, stiffer, compact bcd, blah blah

Originally Posted by lwrncc
Hi,

I have not read all the replies, tldr. But maybe I can help.

I work in a shop that sells cdales, and I have an EVO with a wheelsmfg adpater running a gxp crank.

Firstly, make sure you have the right adapter, there is pf30 and bb30. EVO uses pf30, which is the press in plastic/alu cup. bb30 bearings press direct in the the frame's alloy shell with circlips to hold them in place.

Next, the stock wheelsmfg adapter requires the use of flat spacers to take up the slack, but these are no good, they don't hold bearing preload good enough.

They can be too tight, like your case in the first post.

Or too loose, causing creaks.

This is why most pressfit systems rely on a wavy washer to provide correct bearing preload.

So what I did on my bike is to use all the adapter without any slim washers, and take up the slack with a 24mm wavy washer on the drive side. This has worked well for me. I place it on the drive side to get the Q factor even.

You can buy this 24mm washer from a SRAM dealer, as this is the washer used for pressfit gxp.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info.
Re: the item in BOLD: The new EVOs use BB30, they don't have an alloy shell and this is the problem, it's a different design. There is no slack to take up with the adapter, it's either too loose or too tight, there's no in between.
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Last edited by shoota; 06-24-15 at 10:53 AM.
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Old 06-24-15, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
I already have a Stages power meter. So selling that one and using the money to buy the Cannondale one won't cost me much. Not to mention I could get my preferred length of 172.5 this way too. And not mess with adapters, and it's lighter, stiffer, compact bcd, blah blah



Thanks for the info. The new EVOs don't have an alloy shell and this is the problem, it's a different design. There is no slack to take up with the adapter, it's either too loose or too tight, there's no in between.
Maybe you didn't understand my reply.

EVO is PF30, CAAD 10 for example is BB30. Cannondale spec sheet may say EVO is "BB30" but it's a PF30.

PF30 is not the same as BB30.

For GXP, wheelsmfg used to make EITHER BB30 OR PF30 adapters. And then later introduced the universal kit.

So make sure you have the PF30 or the universal kit. The BB30 adapter will not work for EVO.

Then, use a 24mm wavy washer instead of the slim washers to get correct bearing preload.

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Old 06-24-15, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
Maybe you didn't understand my reply.

Yes you are right, EVO is PF30, CAAD 10 for example is BB30.

PF30 is not the same as BB30.

For GXP, wheelsmfg used to make EITHER BB30 OR PF30 adapters. And then later introduced the universal kit.

So make sure you have the PF30 or the universal kit. The BB30 adapter will not work for EVO.

Then, use a 24mm wavy washer instead of the slim washers to get correct bearing preload.

I literally just edited my above reply. The new EVOs use BB30, not PF30.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:04 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
I literally just edited my above reply. The new EVOs use BB30, not PF30.
Nope, EVO is PF30. It's not a special "BB30 without and alu shell"

Here's the original bottom bracket for the EVO, as you can see it's PF30.

Cannondale PressFit BB30 PF30 Bottom Bracket Shell, Bearings, Shields - KP197
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Old 06-24-15, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
Nope, EVO is PF30. It's not a special "BB30 without and alu shell"

Here's the original bottom bracket for the EVO, as you can see it's PF30.

Cannondale PressFit BB30 PF30 Bottom Bracket Shell, Bearings, Shields - KP197
huh I guess they forgot to put an alloy shell in my frame and accidentally stuck a giant "BB30" sticker on it.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
huh I guess they forgot to put an alloy shell in my frame and accidentally stuck a giant "BB30" sticker on it.


You mean like this.

I'm just trying to help you, If you don't want to believe it's PF30, I can't help you. Maybe someone else will chime in.

It's a Cannondale marketing thing, they will never put "PF30" on their frame, because they invented "BB30".
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Old 06-24-15, 11:29 AM
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Also, please refer to this thread, where more people are misled into thinking they have bb30 instead of pf30 on their EVO.

https://www.******.com/r/bikewrench/c...ottom_bracket/
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Old 06-24-15, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc


You mean like this.

I'm just trying to help you, If you don't want to believe it's PF30, I can't help you. Maybe someone else will chime in.

It's a Cannondale marketing thing, they will never put "PF30" on their frame, because they invented "BB30".
Ok I think we're trying to say the same thing but the marketing speak is making things confusing (as it always does).

Here's what I know:
My frame has no alloy shell and Wheels Manufacturing just sent me an email stating the want to send me a BBUNIV kit for all my troubles. So hopefully they send it soon and we can put this to rest.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:41 AM
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One last article:

Why PressFit BB30 on the 2012 Cannondale EVO? | Infinite Cycles Bike Shop

good luck with your bb issue.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
Also, please refer to this thread, where more people are misled into thinking they have bb30 instead of pf30 on their EVO.

https://www.******.com/r/bikewrench/c...ottom_bracket/
I assume that's R E D D I T right?
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Old 06-24-15, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
Ok I think we're trying to say the same thing but the marketing speak is making things confusing (as it always does).

Here's what I know:
My frame has no alloy shell and Wheels Manufacturing just sent me an email stating the want to send me a BBUNIV kit for all my troubles. So hopefully they send it soon and we can put this to rest.
That's good, BBUNIV works for both, good luck!
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Old 06-24-15, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
I assume that's R E D D I T right?
yea, didn't know that was censored. r.e.d.d.1.t.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
yea, didn't know that was censored. r.e.d.d.1.t.
Yeah very strange, you've been very helpful. And when I get the kit I'll give the installation a go, but if I run into trouble expect a PM from me asking for help I still really like the Cannondale SI crank though...
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Old 06-24-15, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
Yeah very strange, you've been very helpful. And when I get the kit I'll give the installation a go, but if I run into trouble expect a PM from me asking for help I still really like the Cannondale SI crank though...
Sure, no problem.

Hollowgram crank is very nice.

Wait for 2016, there is a second tier SI crank with new spiderings, which should be more affordable than SISL2.

I won't link it here, but you can find pictures online if your Google-fu is good.
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Old 06-24-15, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
Sure, no problem.

Hollowgram crank is very nice.

Wait for 2016, there is a second tier SI crank with new spiderings, which should be more affordable than SISL2.

I won't link it here, but you can find pictures online if your Google-fu is good.
Right on thanks man.
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Old 06-24-15, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by lwrncc
Sure, no problem.

Hollowgram crank is very nice.

Wait for 2016, there is a second tier SI crank with new spiderings, which should be more affordable than SISL2.

I won't link it here, but you can find pictures online if your Google-fu is good.
If you want a SISL2 I suggest you look for one on Ebay. New take offs regularly sell on Ebay in the $400 range. Still expensive but way below what you would pay to a authorized Cannondale dealer. I paid ~ $400 for a brand new SISL2 take off back in December. I didn't need the chain rings the crank came with (I used the crank for a 1 x 11 set up on my CX bike) and sold them on Ebay so my net out of pocket was a little over $300.
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Old 06-25-15, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Grambo
If you want a SISL2 I suggest you look for one on Ebay. New take offs regularly sell on Ebay in the $400 range. Still expensive but way below what you would pay to a authorized Cannondale dealer. I paid ~ $400 for a brand new SISL2 take off back in December. I didn't need the chain rings the crank came with (I used the crank for a 1 x 11 set up on my CX bike) and sold them on Ebay so my net out of pocket was a little over $300.
Good idea. I haven't looked into the cranks that closely yet, are the SISL2 alloy or carbon? Isn't there a carbon version that's supposed to be the lightest and stiffest (and probably most expensive)?
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Old 06-25-15, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
Good idea. I haven't looked into the cranks that closely yet, are the SISL2 alloy or carbon? Isn't there a carbon version that's supposed to be the lightest and stiffest (and probably most expensive)?
The SISL2 is AL. Not sure whether there is a CF version.
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Old 06-25-15, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Grambo
The SISL2 is AL. Not sure whether there is a CF version.
My quick googling tells me there is a carbon one but it's not as good as the SISL2
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Old 06-25-15, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by shoota
My quick googling tells me there is a carbon one but it's not as good as the SISL2
Just took a look at mine, I have the SI version which allows you to use any conventional ring you like assuming it is the right BCD for the crank. The SISL2 uses their one piece spider ring set up and is slightly lighter than the SI version (and more expensive $$$).
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