Thoughts on this wheelset? Is it even an upgrade?
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The Axis Classic weights are as follows (with skewers installed):
Front: 1062 gr
Rear: 1212 gr
Total: 2274 gr
Vuelta Corsa SLR
Front: 712 gr
Rear: 816 gr
Total: 1528 gr
Weight Difference: 746 gr = 28.3 oz ~ 1.65 lbs
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Strange... my google search said your outgoing wheels were lighter than that. Color me corrected nice weight savings
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If you want to improve the ride quality on rough roads, you don't want these. You'll want wider (not higher profile) rims for that. That said, these may well be lighter.
I generally discourage buying prebuilt wheels on the intarwebz. I know lots of people do it and are satisfied, but IME, the tension and true are not up to snuff, especially on cheaper sets. A bike shop can fix that, but it won't be free if you don't order from them. OTOH, lots of people don't seem to mind pulsing brakes and early failures. YMMV.
I generally discourage buying prebuilt wheels on the intarwebz. I know lots of people do it and are satisfied, but IME, the tension and true are not up to snuff, especially on cheaper sets. A bike shop can fix that, but it won't be free if you don't order from them. OTOH, lots of people don't seem to mind pulsing brakes and early failures. YMMV.
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Both sets of Vueltas that I have purchased arrived true. I spent a few minutes on the trueing stand with the corsa pros after the first couple thousand miles, but they didn't necessarily need it. They aren't machine built like some of the less expensive brands. I imagine quality could fluctuate with inexperienced employees or a lax QC inspector, but in my sampling of two I've been happy with the build quality.
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It's also worth noting that in my only experience of Vuelta's customer service (I emailed about how to remove the freehub when I was replacing it to go from campy to Shimano 2 years ago), they responded within a few hours and gave me a very detailed explanation of how to disassemble/reassemble everything, and offered to call me if I needed more help.
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True is easy to do even with just a machine process. The real test is the consistency of tension among all the spokes. You can have a perfectly true yet lousy wheel if the spoke tensions are all over the place. That is what I would test for upon receiving the wheels.
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True is easy to do even with just a machine process. The real test is the consistency of tension among all the spokes. You can have a perfectly true yet lousy wheel if the spoke tensions are all over the place. That is what I would test for upon receiving the wheels.
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Tension meter is on my list of tools to buy. I'm running out of acceptable (by my wife's standards) space for bike stuff though. We'll be looking to buy a house next year. I'll hopefully have a larger workspace then. Maybe I'll even be able to hide multiple bikes without her noticing.
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On my IPhone it works okay, but the numbers are squirrely. And it is hard to deal with crossed spokes that touch at the cross. Radial spokes are much easier. I think for incoming QA purposes, it might be okay. You just might have to calibrate it against a known wheel to get realistic values.
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I think after a bunch of research, I've decided I'm going to get the Corsa Lites and not the SLRs. With my weight, I fear issues with the SLRs, whereas everyone says the Lites are very strong and there's no flex in them, I've heard some problems with SLRs with heavier riders (over 180 lbs). It's 100g more, but I'd rather add 100g and not bust a spoke or get the wheel out of true.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
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I think after a bunch of research, I've decided I'm going to get the Corsa Lites and not the SLRs. With my weight, I fear issues with the SLRs, whereas everyone says the Lites are very strong and there's no flex in them, I've heard some problems with SLRs with heavier riders (over 180 lbs). It's 100g more, but I'd rather add 100g and not bust a spoke or get the wheel out of true.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
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I think after a bunch of research, I've decided I'm going to get the Corsa Lites and not the SLRs. With my weight, I fear issues with the SLRs, whereas everyone says the Lites are very strong and there's no flex in them, I've heard some problems with SLRs with heavier riders (over 180 lbs). It's 100g more, but I'd rather add 100g and not bust a spoke or get the wheel out of true.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
I'm bummed I figured this out today though, as Nashbar doesn't have the 20% off anymore. Guess I'll have to wait for another sale or 25% off coupon.
2015 Vuelta Corsa Lite 700c Clincher Road Wheelset New Shimano SRAM 8 9 10 11SP | eBay
Or you can wait for another inevitable Nashbar sale. Personally I like the more understated graphics on these wheels now. Mine are a little flamboyant with VUELTA CORSA in huge white/red lettering.
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To me, cannot install wheels without a bolt and some nuts or a skewer so they should be included.
OP, I was going to do the same but there are so many cyclists in my 200lb range or more that have had success with the SLR and that Nashbar is really good about returrns that I figured I had to give them a try. Also, I thought more spokes were better than less not because I knew that to be the case but some sights suggested a correlation between weight and spoke count. Also, someone said the Corsa Lites were noisier than the SLR so that pushed me to the SLR.
So far, so good.
Personally, I think either would be a good wheel for our purposes.
I hate to put this question out there but if your bike was an entry level road bike(< $1000) and you damaged a wheel or both, would you spend more than $500 on wheels?
I can understand having a bike that is $1600 or $2K and looking at $500 wheels but I do not think a less expensive bike where I am sure the manufacturer has taken many shortcuts to arrive at that price point is going to benefit from more expensive wheels. then again, maybe they will. For where the SLR lack, and to me there isn't in many areas, a more expensive wheel MIGHT have made up in. Of course there are cheaper wheels than these as well.
As for the cartridge bearing and a few other comments, these wheels are so cheap, I could buy 2 or almost 3 for the price of some of the other wheels that were recommended that were over $500. Besides, should I hit a pot hole and damage a wheel, a $234( what I paid) is a lesser nut to crack than over $500. He11, my bike only cost $800 new!!! I would more likely just go buy a whole new bike instead of buying wheels.
OP, I was going to do the same but there are so many cyclists in my 200lb range or more that have had success with the SLR and that Nashbar is really good about returrns that I figured I had to give them a try. Also, I thought more spokes were better than less not because I knew that to be the case but some sights suggested a correlation between weight and spoke count. Also, someone said the Corsa Lites were noisier than the SLR so that pushed me to the SLR.
So far, so good.
Personally, I think either would be a good wheel for our purposes.
I hate to put this question out there but if your bike was an entry level road bike(< $1000) and you damaged a wheel or both, would you spend more than $500 on wheels?
I can understand having a bike that is $1600 or $2K and looking at $500 wheels but I do not think a less expensive bike where I am sure the manufacturer has taken many shortcuts to arrive at that price point is going to benefit from more expensive wheels. then again, maybe they will. For where the SLR lack, and to me there isn't in many areas, a more expensive wheel MIGHT have made up in. Of course there are cheaper wheels than these as well.
As for the cartridge bearing and a few other comments, these wheels are so cheap, I could buy 2 or almost 3 for the price of some of the other wheels that were recommended that were over $500. Besides, should I hit a pot hole and damage a wheel, a $234( what I paid) is a lesser nut to crack than over $500. He11, my bike only cost $800 new!!! I would more likely just go buy a whole new bike instead of buying wheels.
#119
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So that's "better"? Cartridge bearings aren't meant to be serviced, you just replace the entire cartridge bearing (I guess you could argue that the tools required to replace cartridge bearings are more prohibitive than the tools needed for cup/cone bearings, but either way you still need tools). Also, there are plenty of "higher end" hubs with aluminum freehub bodies that likewise get chewed up.
I don't have any experience riding Vuelta wheels. I do ride with a person who had them. He had spoke breakage issues. he was not heavy, about 158
lbs. I would do some research about build quality. If your not cranking 6,000+ miles a year in all kinds of weather, they probably a good wheelset.
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To me, cannot install wheels without a bolt and some nuts or a skewer so they should be included.
OP, I was going to do the same but there are so many cyclists in my 200lb range or more that have had success with the SLR and that Nashbar is really good about returrns that I figured I had to give them a try. Also, I thought more spokes were better than less not because I knew that to be the case but some sights suggested a correlation between weight and spoke count. Also, someone said the Corsa Lites were noisier than the SLR so that pushed me to the SLR.
So far, so good.
Personally, I think either would be a good wheel for our purposes.
I hate to put this question out there but if your bike was an entry level road bike(< $1000) and you damaged a wheel or both, would you spend more than $500 on wheels?
I can understand having a bike that is $1600 or $2K and looking at $500 wheels but I do not think a less expensive bike where I am sure the manufacturer has taken many shortcuts to arrive at that price point is going to benefit from more expensive wheels. then again, maybe they will. For where the SLR lack, and to me there isn't in many areas, a more expensive wheel MIGHT have made up in. Of course there are cheaper wheels than these as well.
As for the cartridge bearing and a few other comments, these wheels are so cheap, I could buy 2 or almost 3 for the price of some of the other wheels that were recommended that were over $500. Besides, should I hit a pot hole and damage a wheel, a $234( what I paid) is a lesser nut to crack than over $500. He11, my bike only cost $800 new!!! I would more likely just go buy a whole new bike instead of buying wheels.
OP, I was going to do the same but there are so many cyclists in my 200lb range or more that have had success with the SLR and that Nashbar is really good about returrns that I figured I had to give them a try. Also, I thought more spokes were better than less not because I knew that to be the case but some sights suggested a correlation between weight and spoke count. Also, someone said the Corsa Lites were noisier than the SLR so that pushed me to the SLR.
So far, so good.
Personally, I think either would be a good wheel for our purposes.
I hate to put this question out there but if your bike was an entry level road bike(< $1000) and you damaged a wheel or both, would you spend more than $500 on wheels?
I can understand having a bike that is $1600 or $2K and looking at $500 wheels but I do not think a less expensive bike where I am sure the manufacturer has taken many shortcuts to arrive at that price point is going to benefit from more expensive wheels. then again, maybe they will. For where the SLR lack, and to me there isn't in many areas, a more expensive wheel MIGHT have made up in. Of course there are cheaper wheels than these as well.
As for the cartridge bearing and a few other comments, these wheels are so cheap, I could buy 2 or almost 3 for the price of some of the other wheels that were recommended that were over $500. Besides, should I hit a pot hole and damage a wheel, a $234( what I paid) is a lesser nut to crack than over $500. He11, my bike only cost $800 new!!! I would more likely just go buy a whole new bike instead of buying wheels.
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I have Dura Ace hubs on my rain wheels. The seals are so tight that after about 6,000 miles of rain riding, when I had the hub serviced, the grease was still clean. Dura Ace hubs also have a 3 year warranty. I have used Dura Ace hubs since 1985. They have always been great hubs.
I don't have any experience riding Vuelta wheels. I do ride with a person who had them. He had spoke breakage issues. he was not heavy, about 158
lbs. I would do some research about build quality. If your not cranking 6,000+ miles a year in all kinds of weather, they probably a good wheelset.
I don't have any experience riding Vuelta wheels. I do ride with a person who had them. He had spoke breakage issues. he was not heavy, about 158
lbs. I would do some research about build quality. If your not cranking 6,000+ miles a year in all kinds of weather, they probably a good wheelset.
The only thing that I avoid with them is riding through flood water that is hub-deep. That's probably a bad idea with any hubs though
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I've got maybe 6,000 on my Vuelta wheels, about a year old, in every kind of weather. I haven't felt the need to have the hubs serviced yet - I'll probably do it myself when the time comes but I have no complaints about their durability.
The only thing that I avoid with them is riding through flood water that is hub-deep. That's probably a bad idea with any hubs though
The only thing that I avoid with them is riding through flood water that is hub-deep. That's probably a bad idea with any hubs though
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There are many possible explanations including poor initial spoke tension balance. But I think it is important to mention that inexperienced home mechanics can do a lot of damage to a very good set of wheels in the name of "truing". It only takes about 5 minutes and a spoke wrench to totally wreck a perfectly good wheel in the course of improper truing. The final product can be perfectly true and yet the wheel can be so cocked up that broken spokes over the short run will be guaranteed. There is no reason for me to postulate that this is what was going on with your riding buddy, yet it is among the possibilities.
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Well, as expected, Nashbar has another sale, 21% off now. I ended up ordering the Corsa Lites, which were about $205. Any recommendations on tires? Should I just continue to use my 23mm stock Bontragers until they die? They're still pretty new.