Save me...titanium frame?
#1
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Save me...titanium frame?
I had Retul fitting a little while ago and the fitter suggested a 160 crank. Great. So I started looking at shorter cranks which, somehow, lead me to looking at No.22 frames. Which lead me to thinking ... Any thoughts on titanium frames; rough paved roads, lots of hills, older rider. Coming from Specialized Roubaix.
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I ride two steel forked ti bikes from TiCycles on any pavement (and occasionally off) as a 62 yo. Love them. Can't compare to any CF bikes because I have yet to ride one. But these bikes have 9 and 13k miles on them and will get many more. Road surface is never a consideration on my rides (other than paved or no) except that I sometimes choose the lesser pavement as being more interesting.
Now, I am long and all my cranks are 175 but I doubt that makes any significant difference in this discussion. (I'm slightly under 6' but all arms and legs. Wt 155.)
Ben
Now, I am long and all my cranks are 175 but I doubt that makes any significant difference in this discussion. (I'm slightly under 6' but all arms and legs. Wt 155.)
Ben
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If you're looking for comfort, Ti can't be beat. By changing tubing, it can be stiff or giving. It doesn't rust, scratch, ding, or look bad with age. It's a lifetime frame.
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Who did your fitting, and how tall are you(inseam)?
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I hadn't heard of 22. They look nice.
Merlin Extralight is out there if you want a level top tube. This might be my next bike.
For some reason I am always disappointed when I see a sloping top tube on a steel or ti bike.
Edit: Just saw "Sloping or level top tube. Your choice" on the TiCycles website. Will have to give them a look.
Merlin Extralight is out there if you want a level top tube. This might be my next bike.
For some reason I am always disappointed when I see a sloping top tube on a steel or ti bike.
Edit: Just saw "Sloping or level top tube. Your choice" on the TiCycles website. Will have to give them a look.
#6
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I'm 5'7", 58, about 155lb; pretty fit. I too occasionally get off the road for old field roads, woods, etc.
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What is wrong with the Specialized Roubaix? Everything I've heard is that they make very nice bikes. Or, is this a throw the baby out with the bathwater thing?
I've been riding a Litespeed "Frankenbike". It makes a great winter bike. I can't say it is any better at reducing road vibration than other bikes, but it is a good ride, and easy to keep clean and rust free.
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What did the "fit" involve?
As far as I can tell, cadence is related to the circumference of the crank circle, so there would naturally be a trade-off between cranklength and cadence.
So, you could probably maximize the cadence with shorter cranks, but not necessarily maximizing the actual power. Likewise, longer cranks would give more leverage, but at a cost of slower overall cadence due to the longer circle.
It would seem complex to dial in the perfect crank length, gearing, resistance, and cadence.
As far as I can tell, cadence is related to the circumference of the crank circle, so there would naturally be a trade-off between cranklength and cadence.
So, you could probably maximize the cadence with shorter cranks, but not necessarily maximizing the actual power. Likewise, longer cranks would give more leverage, but at a cost of slower overall cadence due to the longer circle.
It would seem complex to dial in the perfect crank length, gearing, resistance, and cadence.
#12
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The fit was a computer/video Retul fitting; in my opinion, very extensive. My inseam is 29" and, yes, I do have some hip mobility issues. I was simply going to put shorter cranks on the Roubaix and was "internet shopping" and came upon the titanium frames which got me thinking about simply buyin new bike as opposed to upgrading current frame.
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But they do crack, so I guess it depends on whose lifetime...
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Last month I rented a Roubaix for a week while visiting family in Arizona. While I did enjoy riding this bike, IMHO, both of my Ti bikes have a much better ride over rough and chip sealed roads.
I can’t offer any feedback on No 22 frames. Never even seen one.
I have had my Ti bikes for many years and both have well over 10,000 miles on them. I see no reason why they won’t be passed on to someone after I am too old to ride.
In my mind an added benefit of many metal frames (Ti, steel and AL) is the use conventional headsets and bottom brackets.
I can’t offer any feedback on No 22 frames. Never even seen one.
I have had my Ti bikes for many years and both have well over 10,000 miles on them. I see no reason why they won’t be passed on to someone after I am too old to ride.
In my mind an added benefit of many metal frames (Ti, steel and AL) is the use conventional headsets and bottom brackets.
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Last month I rented a Roubaix for a week while visiting family in Arizona. While I did enjoy riding this bike, IMHO, both of my Ti bikes have a much better ride over rough and chip sealed roads.
I can’t offer any feedback on No 22 frames. Never even seen one.
I have had my Ti bikes for many years and both have well over 10,000 miles on them. I see no reason why they won’t be passed on to someone after I am too old to ride.
In my mind an added benefit of many metal frames (Ti, steel and AL) is the use conventional headsets and bottom brackets.
I can’t offer any feedback on No 22 frames. Never even seen one.
I have had my Ti bikes for many years and both have well over 10,000 miles on them. I see no reason why they won’t be passed on to someone after I am too old to ride.
In my mind an added benefit of many metal frames (Ti, steel and AL) is the use conventional headsets and bottom brackets.
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the only people that want a threaded headset these days are Luddites and Hipsters that want to use quill stems.
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Dear goodness! 160mm cranks at 5'7" are just wrong! I have a friend who is 5'2" with short legs, and he doesn't even ride 160mm cranks!
I think a lot of these fittings are pure BS. Seems like they throw in off-the-wall stuff just to be different and appear "scientific"- They woprk for lots of people, because our bodies can adapt to quite a wide range- but they are likely unnecessary. Unless you are having some major comfort/performance issues with standard cranks, I wouldn't waste time and money going after 160's. just because some proprietary fitting sceme says you should.
I think a lot of these fittings are pure BS. Seems like they throw in off-the-wall stuff just to be different and appear "scientific"- They woprk for lots of people, because our bodies can adapt to quite a wide range- but they are likely unnecessary. Unless you are having some major comfort/performance issues with standard cranks, I wouldn't waste time and money going after 160's. just because some proprietary fitting sceme says you should.
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Yeah, it could be some "proprietary fitting sceme" but the people doing the fitting aren't making any money selling shorter cranks. Maybe instead it is an industry which has decided 165-170 mm cranks are a happy medium, good enough for most people and not terrible for the rest---but not really suited to people not in the median range.
Another thing is riding style. I used to spin, so short cranks were not an issue. Now my heart can't handle high revs, so long cranks (with my long legs) offer extra torque to compensate for lower revs---I can still be efficient (though I'd much prefer to be able to spin---more power strokes per minute is better, IMO.)
Attacking the guys who did this fitting when you know absolutely nothing about them makes it seem a bit like you were abused by a bike fitter as a kid, or something. Maybe these guys looked at this specific rider, his range of motion, length of limb, limb-to-body proportions, disabilities and limitations, and calculated that he could get the best performance out of 160-mm cranks.
Unless they immediately followed up with "And we just happen to have the only set of 160-mm cranks in the region--but they are Way expensive" then i don't see why these guys would lie.
Besides, the guy is going after a Ti frame---so you should be steering him to lightweight build-it-yourself Chinese carbon.
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Steel is a different story though. If you want to smooth out your ride, go for a light steel bike. Reynolds 853, True Temper OX Platinum or S3 if you can afford it. Much smoother ride and very little weight difference. An S3 frame might actually come out as light or lighter than an equally strong titanium frame.
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But if you must have Ti, definitely check out Lynskey:
https://www.lynskeyperformance.com
Or buy this cool Litespeed in their used section:
https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/s...e-size-53.html
https://www.lynskeyperformance.com
Or buy this cool Litespeed in their used section:
https://www.lynskeyperformance.com/s...e-size-53.html
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Dear goodness! 160mm cranks at 5'7" are just wrong! I have a friend who is 5'2" with short legs, and he doesn't even ride 160mm cranks!
I think a lot of these fittings are pure BS. Seems like they throw in off-the-wall stuff just to be different and appear "scientific"- They woprk for lots of people, because our bodies can adapt to quite a wide range- but they are likely unnecessary. Unless you are having some major comfort/performance issues with standard cranks, I wouldn't waste time and money going after 160's. just because some proprietary fitting sceme says you should.
I think a lot of these fittings are pure BS. Seems like they throw in off-the-wall stuff just to be different and appear "scientific"- They woprk for lots of people, because our bodies can adapt to quite a wide range- but they are likely unnecessary. Unless you are having some major comfort/performance issues with standard cranks, I wouldn't waste time and money going after 160's. just because some proprietary fitting sceme says you should.