Going from 33mm deep aluminum to 52mm deep carbon wheels...what to expect?
01-14-16, 08:36 AM
#26
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Then they're working, at least as well as normal wheels. Or maybe you just don't ride under conditions in which they create turbulence. All I know, is the ones that make noise....when they're making noise, they're not being more aero- they're being less aero.
01-14-16, 09:06 AM
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I've noticed the noise maker is the fork, if you have an aero fork, you'll hear some noise
01-14-16, 09:30 AM
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Riding down the hill from NCAR on my Aeolus 5s with the stock Bontrager cork pads and it started to rain. Dumped rain. I had about 5% braking power, was trying to decide where/how to ditch my new bike into the field with the least amount of damage, going into the neighborhood/stop lights below at full speed with no brakes was a death sentence. Eventually slowed enough that I could unclip and drag my foot (new cleats anyone?) to slow down. The stain on the back of my shorts was not from spray.
Switched to the black prince pads and it's much better in both wet and dry. I still switch out to my alu rims when we're doing a big climbing ride (Mt Evans or Trail Ridge Road last year).
Switched to the black prince pads and it's much better in both wet and dry. I still switch out to my alu rims when we're doing a big climbing ride (Mt Evans or Trail Ridge Road last year).
01-14-16, 09:55 AM
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01-14-16, 01:29 PM
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I've been riding 58mm carbon year around for the last 3+ years and I don't see a lot of downside.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
01-14-16, 05:26 PM
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I've been riding 58mm carbon year around for the last 3+ years and I don't see a lot of downside.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
01-14-16, 05:53 PM
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I know what the 33 is; what's the 52..?
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01-14-16, 08:27 PM
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Wet braking is better w/ my (road bike) carbon wheels & Reynolds blue pads
than it is on my CX bike w/ alloy (aluminum alloy I mean) rims, cantilevers & salmon pads.
than it is on my CX bike w/ alloy (aluminum alloy I mean) rims, cantilevers & salmon pads.
01-14-16, 09:23 PM
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01-15-16, 08:07 AM
#37
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I've been riding 58mm carbon year around for the last 3+ years and I don't see a lot of downside.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
With a good carbon rim and the right pads (I like the black prince ones), braking is not an issue unless you are doing serious descending. Yes, it's worse in the rain, but the newer rims/pads are much better than the older stuff. I can't speak to the rims you are considering, but zipp added a little texture to the brake track when they released the firecrests and this made a big difference in breaking. The new fire strike wheels actually have an abrasive built into the brake track that's supposed to make them outstanding in the rain, but I have not ridden those yet.
I don't have an issue with crosswinds until things get really gusty. Even a steady 30mph wind isn't an issue, but the gusts require your attention. Even with a shallow aluminum wheel, you will get thrown around in bad conditions, but the deeper wheels take some getting used to. I'm also 185lbs, so a lighter rider would have more of an issue. Also, it's not all about rim depth. The profile has a big influence on how the wheel will react to crosswinds. The rear wheel has very little to do with stability, regardless of depth.
On the plus:
Faster in most all cases. I'd estimate at least 10 watts savings at 25mph for my wheels. That's good for around 1 minute saving in a 40k TT. I'm sure there is wind tunnel data out there that claims a bigger difference, but I'm pretty sure my 58mm wheels are good for at least 10 watts at speed. Unless you are a mountain goat, a deep wheel is almost always faster.
The sound - The only thing better than the sound of a set of deep carbon wheels at speed - The sound of 50+ sets of deep carbon wheels in a race
Durability - I'm convinced that high quality carbon clinchers being made today are more durable than aluminum. I've hit some crazy stuff/pot holes that I am sure would have dented an aluminum rim. I would not have said that 5 years ago after delaminating a couple nice carbon wheels (warranty replacement thank goodness).
Even if you do have a major crash and damage a wheel, most of the high end wheel mfg's have crash replacement policies. You're still out a pocket a few hundred bucks, but that's only a couple hundred more than destroying an aluminum rim.
01-16-16, 09:16 PM
#38
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Small increase in speed. Small.
Small loss of braking performance in dry... sorry I don't ride my good bike in the rain much.
Cross winds will blow you around a bit more.
HUGE increase in coolness .
Awesome sound at speed and while braking.
Easier to damage rim in blow out, with rocks, tire irons, stones picked up in brake pads...
The chicks love them.
Small loss of braking performance in dry... sorry I don't ride my good bike in the rain much.
Cross winds will blow you around a bit more.
HUGE increase in coolness .
Awesome sound at speed and while braking.
Easier to damage rim in blow out, with rocks, tire irons, stones picked up in brake pads...
The chicks love them.
