Inpd

Hi,

I've seen quite a few times people mention that if you build up a bike component-wise its a labor of love and will be more expensive than what the manufacturers sell. But I just want to point out it is possible IF you buy your components from the UK.

The details are below, but essentially for $850 I got a steel bike with complete 5800 drive train and other entry level components. If your wondering why I bought other entry level components, I'm going to ride the bike with these components and then upgrade in 6 months.

For $895 I could have bought a Gran Premio Elite (a steel bike) from BD which contains most of the 5800 drive train but compromises on the cranks, brakes and BB. Also, according to reviews the BD bike weights 21.8 pounds and mine should come in at under 20 pounds.

Now of course the big difference is my bike is lying around in parts and I have to put it together, but so far so good. Putting together the steering assembly took 40 minutes including cutting down the steering tube. I estimate it will take me about 10 hours to assemble.

Details
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My cost break down is:

Frameset: Breezer Venturi $300 (BikeWagon)
Entire 5800 Groupset: $350 (Wiggle or Merlins)
Wheels: Camparelo Khashims Assymetric 2016 $118 (Merlin)
Tires, bottle cages, pedals, seat, handlebars, tape etc $80 (Ribble)

I think my bike is better speced than the BD offering. The Gran Premio frame appears to have a regular Chromly rear triangle (not 520) and BD uses a non-Shimano brakes, cranks and BB. The Campy Khashims and the RS11 wheelset the BD bike has are comparable.

Lazyass

Just have to shop right. I'd get a Centaur group, though, or even spend a little more for Athena. A complete hydroformed steel bike with full Athena for less than $1K would be cool.

rpenmanparker 

520 is just "regular" CrMo steel. The butting details may be different, but 520 is made under license by someone else for Reynolds in Asia. I am not sure whether or not it is seamless, though I have never believed that made any difference. Just saying there is no reason to believe the plain Jane rear triangle on the Moto is less good than the main frame as far as tubing goes.

Inpd

This guys review implies https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...mio-elite.html Is what I read. He implies the rear triangle is 4130

rpenmanparker 

No, he thinks it is hi-tensile steel which is not as strong as 4130 CrMo. That is absolutely incorrect. The rear triangle is 4130 steel.

Just so it is clear, 520 is a tube model, not a steel alloy. The 520 tubes are made from 4130 CrMo steel or at least an alloy so close that it isn't any use to argue about it.

rms13

OP forgets to mention that he got the frameset for about 1/3 original retail cost. If you shop around and or get a used frame you can certainly do it but hard to beat bikesdirect or Nashbar otherwise. Sourcing my carbon frame and wheels from China I did my build for around $1800. For $400 more I could get a carbon bike with full dura ace from bikesdirect.

Maelochs

I second rms13, in that the frame is often the most expensive part of the project. Trying to find a decent frame for under $500 is tough, unless you go to Ebay or Craigslist and risk used.

I suppose I could get a slightly overweight Nashbar Al frame for $150, but for $150 I could get a similarly heavy steel framed bike on CL To build a bike Above entry level takes some real luck. Major-maker frames seem to run $900-$2900 and the really good ones, way too much more. Wasn't the Breezer on super-sale ... because the company is going out of business or something? Can't count on that happening a lot.

rms13 proved that it can be done ... but he bought a Chinese carbon frame, which seems to make a lot of people uncomfortable. nashbar sells similar frames for about $100 more ... but nashbar and BD sell full bikes with comparable frames for not a lot of money at all. it is hard to beat the advantage of mass purchasing power.

Not saying it Cannot be done. I got my groupset from Merlin for a real bargain (relatively) and hope to duplicate rms13's feat. But as general advice, I tell people it cannot be done cost-effectivley unless you either compromise (not that I find Chinese or Nashbar carbon a compromise, but some do) or find an amazing deal.

I haven't priced good steel framesets, but I get $300 is about half or a third of what the good ones run.

More specific to this post ... great for you sir. Please post pics of the build and the finished product if you like.

anotherbrian

I recently bought the Performance aluminum frame to use as my dedicated mounted-in-the-trainer bike. It has a Chris King headset on it now -- a headset that costs more than the frame itself (though mine was a spare from a past bike -- less and less need for 1 1/8" headsets these days).

I did go full on on the cheap frames though, also buying the Nashbar carbon frame and fork. It's going to get my White Industries Eno Eccentric wheel with a fixed cog.

I'd spent a couple weeks searching Craigslist for cheap steel and aluminum frames to use as the permanent trainer bike and for the fixed gear, and finally gave up. If I can pay a little bit more, for a new frame delivered to my door, with Perf/Nash's warranty, it's an easy choice. And being able to buy a new Ultegra crankset from Ribble for $128 is stupid silly.

seymour1910

One could also go with this frame from Taiwan and come out with a pretty low cost build.

https://www.texascyclesport.com/raw-carbon-frameset/

MaxxTraxx

I'll take my Tarmac, thanks.

rms13

Bikesdirect has Fuji Altamira with full DA Di2 for $1800. 10 speed but still pretty good
Save Up To 60% Off Carbon Road Bikes - New Fuji Altamira Di2 LE, Full Carbon Road Bikes with Electronic Shimano Di2 Dura Ace 20 Speeds/ Ultegra Cranks + Fast Wheelsets

Inpd

Well, the MSRP of my frameset was $1099 but I think it probably retailed for $600-$700 from what I've read. But I think that frame is much nicer than the BD frame.

As for cheap frames there are many here is a really cheap but decent Chromoly frameset https://www.overstock.com/Sports-Toys...3/product.html and here is a 1600 gram ALU frame Nashbar Alloy Road Frame

Darth Lefty 

Just don't forget anything in your budget.

I'm curious how good any of the things in this list could be to make it total $80. I think I'd choose tires that would cost all of that. If you're cheaping out everywhere else why not splurge on the contact points? I hope he also remembered post and stem!

Maelochs

"Tires, bottle cages, pedals, seat, handlebars, tape etc $80 (Ribble)"
Tires $20 each --Continental Ultra Sport Folding Road Tire (Nashbar)
Cages, Blackburn Competition Bottle Cage 2x $5
Seat--Vader 104, $10, or Nashbar R1 Saddle Returned, $12
Tape, $3 maybe off Ebay
Cables, maybe $12 (Ebay also)
Pedals $20 Forté ATB Comp Pedals (Performance Bike)
Handlebars $12 Nashbar returns--I forget the details, but I saw them and they looked decent

Shop the close-outs and returns pages wherever, and you can save a bunch of money on good stuff. Otherwise, Ebay and Amazon and patience ...

None of this stuff is suited for a lightweight, hi-tech, high-dollar frame, but for a just-ride-it bike which won't weigh a ton and won't break, these are all fine parts.

Inpd

MICHTUBE250000075040 - Michelin Airstop Butyl Inner Tube 700x25/32 SV40mm 317049 2 2 18/01/2016 14:06:09 2 0 US$6.66
MICHTYRF425BKDG70X25 - Michelin Lithion 2 Folding Tyre Black/Dark Grey 700x25mm 2 2 18/01/2016 14:06:09 2 0 US$27.66
TRASCABB280000000010 - Transfil Cable End Crimps Bag of 10 1 1 18/01/2016 14:06:09 1 0 US$1.51
LIZDHBTP300000000000 - Lizard Skins Bar End Plugs 1 1 18/01/2016 14:06:09 1 0 US$1.15
TORTBOTC250BL0000000 - Tortec 5.0mm Welded Aluminium Bottle Cage Blue 1 1 18/01/2016 14:06:09 1 0 US$3.62
MUCOLUBE4000000050MB - Muc-Off Dry Lube 50ml Bottle 1 1 18/01/2016 14:06:09 1 0 US$3.27
is half the order for $40.

Shimano pedals for $25 Shimano PD-M530 MTB SPD Pedals | Competitive Cyclist



These UK retailers are amazingly cheap. Shipping can be free but takes 1-2 weeks.

dksix

If one buys smart and isn't in a hurry they should be able to build bike that's more ideal for them but to just call and order, BD is going to be hard to beat. I always have a hard time letting go a big sums of money, even when I have it. I love bargains and shopping online so the buy it piece at a time works out great for me. I would have been glad to buy a China CF frame but couldn't find one in my size with the geometry I was looking for but found a used one that should be in on Tuesday.

gsa103

Stay far away from that Di2 bike. It's early generation Di2 and not compatible with anything. If anything ever breaks your only option is NOS parts for an obscure group.

JonnyHK 

The only time I've built up a new bike at a huge saving to anything a bike company can do I had a couple of advantages.

1 - groupset at 'staff' price via a friend who is an engineer at one of the big three component companies
2 - custom steel frame at 'team' price direct from the frame builder who was the team sponsor

You can't beat trade prices or the economies of scale unless you get a couple of sweetheart deals to help.

RollCNY

I have never built a bike with the goal of being "cheaper than Bikes Direct". I don't know why anyone would have that as a goal. I build my own bikes so that every piece is exactly what I want, not the cheapest component I can find.

rpenmanparker 

Your approach is one of several common and well-established ways to go about the process. There are many others like seeking good functionality for the lowest possible price. It's all good.

Inpd

Ah but read the title and my initial post. The title includes the term "higher speced" and I was trying to counter this argument you have to pay a fortune to buildup your own bike.
@JonnyHK hit the nail on the head. You need to get some sort of discount. My understanding is that the UK retailers like Wiggle/Ribble/Merlins build bikes themselves and can hence sell you the OEM version of the component at an affordable price.

Just about all 5800 bikes are $1000+ and they often compromise by using cheaper cranks and Tektro brakes etc. But the *entire* 5800 groupset from Wiggle/Merlins is just $350 (every day i.e. no sale) shipped to your door. If you get hit with duty it will be $385.

Inpd

I think another approach is to quite simply to build a good looking bike. That's the approach I'm taking but until I know (for example) whether Merckx or Ergonomic or Compact bars are the best fit for this bike I'm holding off on that investment.

rpenmanparker 

There are a bunch of ways to go about it. OP's is perfectly sensible...for him.

RollCNY

I did not mean to sound harsh, and I absolutely pay attention to price. What I was trying to say is that setting the bar of a build at meeting or beating the price and "build quality" of a BD model seems arbitrary. We all bring a subjective element to any build, which you even mention in seeking "good functionality for the lowest possible price". Good is subjective.

I will give an example: stems. To many people, a stem is a trivial portion of a build, and anyone who spends more than $4 on a stem is wasting money. Most likely, the BD bike has a $4 stem, or less (the $4 is a WAG, and simply illustrative). To me, a stem matters cosmetically because I see it every time I look down. It is one of the most common things in your view, and I would argue that you see your stem, handlebars, and bar tape more often than you see your frame. So how much is that worth, and how does it factor into "good functionality"?

My only real point is that you don't ride a budget, you ride a bike. The amount you paid will fade in your mind, but the choices you made will be visible every time you ride. Make choices that make you content long-term. I would rather overpay for a bike I love than underpaying for a bike that I don't.

RollCNY

Very few credible posters on this forum have said that you have to pay a fortune to build a bike. The most common comment is that building a bike is more expensive than buying stock, but it all hinges on the choices you make. Much like you are demonstrating in this thread.