stevelewis

I'm a climber looking for a super light bike (under 15 pounds with pedals and cages). My budget is around $6500. Any suggestions?

Doge

Tons of options. Are you serious?

stevelewis

Yes I'm serious. (Not sure why you think I'm not.)

If I could get away with spending a lot less than $6500 that would be great obviously. My bike shop sells: Trek, Cervelo, BMC, Wilier, Pinarello, Fuji and Storck. But I'd to hear about all of options outside of those brands too. Thanks!

allen254

if i was buying one i would definitly go with the pinarello but if you want to save money go with a fuji transonic fuji makes great bikes for fuji transonic more aero , fuji sl for climbing, pinarello all the brands you mentioned are good bikes. try to get one with at least ultegra or dura ace im sure with that money you could fine one full dura ace especially in the fuji , i'm sure with fuji you could find a full ultegra one or ultegra di2 and with the money you save you could buy a killer wheelset

Bunyanderman

Scott Addict frame, less than 800g, and less than $1500 but used. Sram red, possible lightweight wheels. That's an actual brand fyi. Easily sub 13 pounds.

stevelewis

Why pinarello? And which model is their "lightweight climber bike"?

allen254

i not sure if they have a dedicated climbing bike(don't quote me on that) but their Pinarello dogma f8 is what chris froome uses and hes a pretty good climber tour de france winner last year, but i think the dogma f8 is a good all arounder some aero, light weight, stiff, eye pleasing to me at least. or you could get a fuji sl which their new super light bike at around i believe 10lbs and you could probably get one foe 3000 full dura and buy BOYD 44mm deep carbon fiber wheelset for maybe $1400 more leaving you with 2100 left in your pocket go to

pdedes

Argon 18

kbarch

Does it have to be a ready-made bike? Or could you approach the assembly of one systematically with a spreadsheet? Set up variables for the weight and cost for the three big-ticket items (frame, wheels + groupset) and miscellany, and the sums for them to compare with your budgets.

Presumably you have a preferred group, so you could fix that first, and if you don't need electronic shifting, that would give you more to play with for the other items.

Do you need/want aero wheels? You can easily stay within both cost and weight budgets with low-profile wheels.

Personally, as far as SL frames go, I like the Ridley Helium SL (1050 grams normally $3500 full price, on sale for $2800 at Competitive). In my book, it's as attractive as it is light. You can't add aero wheels or a fancy group set and stay in budget, and there is usually a significant premium to be paid for build-to-suit, but you just might be able to put together something nice, and it could be fun. By the way, with the same frame, Ridley deliver a bike that's just 13 lbs, but you'll need increase your budget $3500 (or just $1500 more, on sale) to cut the extra two pounds.

shelbyfv

Because it's quite a jump from where you are now and most people who commit to that level of equipment are more experienced and are able to decide for themselves what they want. No harm in dreaming, though....

rpenmanparker 

The secrets to a cheap, light bike are pretty simple:

* First you have to have patience. Start searching for stuff.
* Used or new-old stock ultralight carbon frame. Scour ebay for Giant TCR Advanced SL, Cannondale Super Six Evo, and the like. $1,500 for a really nice frame should be very doable. Or less.
* Or a very light unlabeled carbon frame from China like Workswell 066 for $450 delivered. These are getting a very positive reputation.
* SRAM Red mechanical group from Merlin, Wiggle, or Ribble in the UK. Lighter than DA but not significantly more expensive.
* Low profile aluminum wheels with parts sourced from Bike Hub Store or BDop. Unbranded Taiwnaese hubs under 300 g/pair. Laser or CX-Ray spokes. Assemble yourself or pay a little to have them assembled. 1,250 g clinchers are easy to do.
* Or unbranded tubular carbon wheels from China. Or buy 270 g carbon tubular rims and proceed as above. 1,000 g tubular set is easy to do.
* New-old stock, old graphics/labels, FSA cockpit parts like the OS-99 stem for about $25 these days on ebay. Used is fine here. Most are just tried for size and then resold. Scour ebay for inexpensive, but name brand carbon bars. The Workswell frame comes with a light post.
* Look Keo Easy pedals are an example of a cheap, light set. 240 g for under $60 on ebay, new.
* Etc.

If you can't break through 14.5 lb for under $4,000 that way, I would be very surprised. If you go the Chinese frame and wheels route, you can pretty easily get to 13.5 lb with wheels, cages, and bike computer for that money. I know because I have done it. But keep in mind that used stuff carries no warranty.

Good luck.

DXchulo

+1 on the Addict. That's the one I've been lusting over for a while.

If I had $6,500 to spend I wouldn't go for a stock bike. Sram red is going to be the lightest groupset, but not a lot of bikes come with it stock. Wheels are huge on a lightweight build, and it's not likely that a stock bike will have the wheels I would want.

kbarch

You should change your alias to "Thrifty McFrugal"

rpenmanparker 

Hmm. Not a bad idea. But I wouldn't want to start from zero again on my post count.

noodle soup

Yes, because without that, how would anyone know that you are a knowledgeable forum member?

rpenmanparker 

I dunno, but I bet some folks could pull it off.

gsa103

Frame is honestly one of the least important places to save weight, but it's a significant cost. The difference between an ultra light carbon frame and a midtier frame is about 300g ( frame & fork), and the cost difference is likely to be $2k.

You absolutely want SRAM Red, and then it comes down to wheels. Something like a Shimano C24 is <1500g, without breaking the bank. Tubular is hands down 200-300g lighter, if you're willing to go that route. The real place to stay within a weight budget is the auxiliary stuff like stems and posts.

You'll want to start a spreadsheet to track weight on everything and estimated cost. Since you're realistically building a bike. Unless you want to go the Emoda SLR, or EVO high-mod Black route.

A CAAD12 frame might actually be a good frame for a budget build. Decently light and would leave a lot for other stuff.

rms13

At least one person here with 20k+ posts had his post count reset and kept his name. I asked why and got a vague answer. Maybe just doesn't want wife or work to know how much time he spends here .

I think that guy may be back over 20k by now

rms13

I've seen steel frame bikes come in around 16.5 lb just by using Red, light wheels and some reasonable well though out components. Rodriguez claims their steel Outlaw frame can be built up sub 15 lb with Red. My Workswell came in around 15 lb with Ultegra for a couple hundred shy of $2000. A CAAD10 or 12 can easily be built to 15 lb or less as well

noodle soup

at least you don't reply to your own posts trying to keep things lively.

rpenmanparker 

Yes, my old steel frame builds up to 17.0 with clincher wheels and Rival derailleurs and shifters. FSA SL-K crank. I do cheat a little with Zero Gravity brakes. I could get it down about two pounds with really light steel and a lighter carbon fork. That frame and mid-range carbon fork weigh way over 5 lb together.

rpenmanparker 

BTW I agree with using a light aluminum frame. If you can get one fairly inexpensively at under 1100 g for the frame only, you can very easily beat your weight goal for thousands less than you are willing to spend.

lupy

Are there any decent links to weight spreadsheets or something similar to play around with? Starting with a spreadsheet thats reliable and pre-made sounds a lot better than making one since I'll probably leave out most of the good stuff on accident.

rms13

Weight Weenies - Listings Index

Doge

All of those can be had < 15# for your budget with a light seat and wheels.