lupy

So I was wondering if I could use a pair of wheels with the hub spaced at 135mm on a carbon frame spaced at 130mm? I installed it on them and it went on really easily. I didn't even notice anything until someone else pointed it out to me. I'm not sure how much carbon is supposed to bend . I don't have a good ruler so I just used a measuring tape so maybe I measured it wrong? The frame I'm talking about is a 2014 fuji norcom straight, and I'm not sure where to find dropout measurements online.

rms13

Sounds like a bad idea but I have no experience so I'll let others chime in. I thought steel was the only material that is ok stretching drop outs

lupy

That's all I've been able to find info on. I can understand not doing it, but it was just so easy that it seemed fine. The bike isn't completely set up so I haven't tried riding it that way though.

rpenmanparker 

I wouldn't. I think the tension in the stays can affect the ride quality. Also the constant stress can lead to fatigue failure. I'm relying on your numbers, of course.

TrojanHorse

It's only 2.5mm per side, seems like a tiny distance. When I put wheels in my frame, the dropouts are definitely squished inward by the quick release. We're not talking super precision here.

If you're not having to apply any force on the dropouts to fit the wheel in there then... go for it, I guess.

I'm sure it's a terrible idea, something could asplode.

jimc101

Confused about what your planning do do, given the measurements and components available on the market.

the Fuji Norcon Straight is a TT bike (and non-disc), 135mm hubs by default, are MTB (QR) or road disc (QR), given this, it's unlikely that you would have a 135mm hub matched to a rim that would be used with this frame (would expect a deep section for a TT bike).

More details on the hub you are looking to use are really needed for a question like this.

For the dropout measurement, if you can't find this info online, but have the frame in your possession, have you tried measuring yourself?

rpenmanparker 

Also CF has very low elongation at break. I wouldn't compress it like that.

GeoKrpan

If the wheel went in easily then I think it's ok. 5mm is only 0.2 inch. Lots of bikes with 130mm nominal spacing actually measure more.

lupy

I do most of my riding on my trek boone just set up for riding on the road. I'm sure its not perfect, but its good enough for me and I can still do cx on it in the winter. I was hoping to get one nice wheelset around 50mm that I could swap between the two for riding on the roads and tri's/tt's. I would still use my old disc wheelset for cx. The TT bike has plenty of room for the disc hubs when the rotors are off (thats how I figured out the hub fits in easy enough). In my budget I could get some 60mm boyd rims (pretty sure I could get them w/ the standard brake track on it, but I would have to confirm), laced to hope pro 4's in the color of my choice. If I have to get a third rear wheel (front wheel would still be fine as long as it has a normal braking surface) I would need to go with a chinese build on dt swiss 350's. The hubs would still be good but I still have a risk of asploding just like I would by stretching my dropouts . I just have to figure out which is riskier.

lupy

Thats kind of what started the problem. I figured it was just user error on a crappy measuring tape. So I sold my TT wheels hoping to upgrade two in one. Now my wife isn't too thrilled with that mistake . It was quite obvious I couldn't use my Flo's on my boone, it wasn't as obvious that their dropouts were spaced .2 inches wider.

EDIT: When I was trying to find out about axles and such I obviously didn't do my HW well enough. I thought since they were both QR's they were the same. I know Through axles were different at least . . .

Maelochs

I'd calculate the cost of an extra rear wheel versus the cost of a new carbon frame. I have no idea what you might do.

Brian Ratliff

It's fine. If your frame breaks at that, it'll break going over a bump. Each stay only moves 2.5mm over a length of something like 400mm for an angular deformation of something like 0.36 degrees. Your frame goes through more angular deformation under hard pedaling.