ptempel

Didnt see he was considering a 70mm stem. I reread the original post and missed that he has a 100mm and was ordering a 90mm. I think they should be good enough to dial in the bar position pretty close.

I've never had that experience in the past. But I guess your milage may vary. I went to someone recommended by another guy I rode with. So I'd prefer a guy with a recommendation than one without, I guess. I had the Serotta fit system done but hear good things about the Sepcialized one as well. I'm sure that either should get the job done but the OP should expect $120 or so for those systems. They take flexibility into account so can be more helpful in determining the stem to saddle drop.

If the OP wants to try a fit himself, then that's fine. But just be aware that the stem length and height might be a bit tricky to get right without some flexibility knowledge. I also used the KOPS technique for saddle position. So would recommend that as a good starting point. But once the saddle height and fore and aft position is determinded from that, it should stay. Then after all of that, fiddle with the stem length and height. Would take more rides to get comfy with the stem choices. So think of the fit as a "work in progress". Another reason for a good fit is the cleat position on the shoe. Most fit guys have a special pedal with the two pointers to help with that. That might also be difficult to get right without some knee pain and trial and error.

dddd

This discussion has many posts so I am possibly just adding "noise" here at this point, but I'm only 5'9" tall now at 55 yrs old (I'm fairly long in the legs) and find the bigger frames allow me to ride most comfortably on brisk training rides through the foothills.

So FWIW, the bikes end up looking like this. Obviously I have moved the saddles forward to shorten the reach to the bars. I appreciate the forward handlebar position on the hoods when leaning way forward (both in and out of the saddle) on steeper climbs, so I keep the longer stems on there for better handling at speed. I always buy older used bikes btw, and bought all of these for well under $2K in total.

For reference, I have the top of the bars 2-1/2" to 3" below the top-middle of the saddle in all cases, and all of these feel good for the 2-4 hour rides I like to do here. I run the top-center of my saddle at 30" above the center of the crankset in all cases.
These range from 59-63cm, and people often suggest I am on too big of a bike, but they all feel right while riding, that's what counts. I've put plenty of miles on these, except the very last one has only recently been put on the road. My various saddles are "level" only in the sense that the front 2/3 of the saddle is about level.

topslop1

Thanks for all of the replies and information. After putting a 90cm stem on the bike and moving the seat slightly forward I did a 28 mile ride today. I felt pretty good, initial thoughts are seat should come back a bit to its original position and an 80cm stem might be better. There's still that slight stretch. I feel good in the drops so I don't think this is a flexibility issue. I'm in OK shape at 6'1.5'' and 205lbs (sure I could lose 10lbs, but I'm fairly muscular), I've always been fairly flexible so as to take some of the confusion out of folks minds of how 'flexible' I am.

Here's the results: The front of my right knee felt pinched and was not at all having it around the last 8 miles or so. In taking KOPS into consideration I believe that my knee may be slightly more forward than center of foot. I will push the seat back a tad (to its original position) and perhaps angle the stem up a bit.

I figure at this point since I am serious enough about riding (I had the epiphany today that I think I'm going to be doing this a hell of a lot more and for a good future) that I will put $150 to a fit.. as some may have mentioned, I might be lighting the extra $75 dollars on fire to go from a basic $75 fit to the 'pro' fit at $150. So be it, at least they will dedicate another hour to check out how I actually push the pedals and look at my cleats. This as well as whatever measurements are taken can all be 'saved information' for down the road.

I figure at the very least this fitting will do 1 of 2 things: fit me to my bike OR give me confirmation that a 56 is the better bet. Regardless of which happens I will not be buying a new-bicycle at that shop or any other. I picked this bike up for $600 on craigslist and if it happens to be too big I will sell it for most likely near the same or possibly more, and then I will hunt for a used 56 (which there are MANY more available to choose from). I do not have a $2,500-$3000 out of pocket for another new bike.. and that's the level that I would be looking at for another (Shimano 105 or up and possibly carbon).. which can be found on craigslist for $1000-$1200.

I could spend a few more weekends dialing the fit in on my own - sure, but to expedite it I think that's my reasoning behind going to a shop. I don't want to change my seat height trying to fit my knee problem and then find out next weekend when I can get a ride in that my hips are rocking or some other bit has been messed up.

Fiery

This is your first proper road bike? It is very likely that you are not used to the position so you can't relax and stretch out properly. I believe you will find your saddle moving back and your stem extending as you put more miles in. I wouldn't go changing the frame before you have a better idea of what really is your optimal fit.

topslop1

Correct, first proper road bike. Decided against doing anything bike size wise. Will get fitted at a shop and then go from there - at least at this point the fit will help me address my knee pain issue as well and not JUST the 'stretched out' concern. The knee pain was a 'bad' knee pain, not a 'I'm tired' knee pain.

Will update post fit again with results for anyone possibly curious as to what happened.

FLvector

Depending on your flexibility it may take 20-30 minutes for your body to relax and feel comfortable dropping into a lower position. Age certainly is a factor also.

Yes, it would be interesting to hear the results of your fit. The fitter should give you a printout (and electronic file) of the fit so you can set up any future bikes to the same specs.

PepeM

You might find this interesting:

Guidelines For Making Adjustments After a Bike Fit | TrainingPeaks