Romulus

PLEASE HELP!!!

I have posted a thread before in mechanics. I've recently got an 87 Trek 560 in like brand new shape. Well after riding it for a while, I mentioned that one ring that borders the whole for the spoke in the rim broke and was sliding up and down the spoke. Initially I thought it is the eyelet, which it maybe. The spoke is tensioned and the wheel still stays true. Ok, went to the shop and they said ride it till it breaks... then get a new wheel.

So, came back, and a big headache trying to figure it all out. Figured I'd post it here too since I see many opinions in to upgrade or not... The bad wheel is the rear. Currently have a 6 cog freewheel. If get new wheel would go to cassette, so might as well click to 9 speed. So probably would need new RD (30 bucks on ebay), FD ($15), wheelset ($60 or so), and maybe would upgrade to STI shifters (105 on ebay for like $90) - total over 200 dollar probably.

Is this worth on a 1987 Trek 560 in excelent condition though like new? (for 300 I could get a new last years bike with Soras and aluminum lighter frame (don't know if that's true - my bike is lighter then the Trek 1000c I saw in the LBS) it seems like from this forum) Please help - what do I do...

Romulus

I'm not sure I'll be able to transfer the spokes to the new rim... I did not ask the lbs if they can do that... ha.

slvoid

Are you sure you're not over reacting? It's just an eyelet..

halfspeed

Nitto makes quill stems up to 130mm. Available at aebike.com.

Grasschopper

How many spokes is the wheel? If it is something like 28, 32, or 36 spokes you are golden, simply buy a new rim and have your LBS build it up for you. They will use new spokes and nipples when they do the build. Depending on the rim you pick it will cost you around $75 I would guess (simply a wild guess) and no more than say $115 uless you pick some exotic rim.

On the other hand you could use it as an excuse to buy a new bike.

brokenrobot

I'm a big fan of these older treks, so I'd vote for replacing only the rim...

Romulus

32h rim

i see rims on e-bay for $20 or so... there's a couple rolf vectors for 60 or so, but then I'd have to change my hub and stuff right, since the vectors are 18 spoke?

Could I build the wheel myself? How much does an LBS charge for it?

Why am I golden if I have 32h rim?

Lots of questions, and thank you for all your answers

jeff williams

https://www.firstflightbikes.com/bars-ste.htm Lauren, this person has many quill stems, I have not purchased from him, but he has one on the most comprehensive sites about vintage mtb.
Seems VERY straight up.
Oops..should have read further..need more coffee.

53-11_alltheway

xxcycle.com has a bunch of really nice removable face quill stems. Their prices and selection are fantastic, but they are overseas.

Hanzo

If it's just the eyelet that broke lose I would just nip it off with some wire cutters and not worry about it if the wheel is holding it's trueness just fine. If that spoke isn't staying seated in the rim maybe put a little washer on the backside so the nipple has something to hold tension aganist.

It doesn't sound like that major of a deal to me where you need to go replacing the whole drivetrain. If it was me I would say that if I had to put more than $100 into it I'd just buy a new bike.

Steelrider

Just ride it until it is out of true. Sounds like it will hold up for a while if it's true now.


Surprised nobody has mentioned this unless there's something about this bike I missed, but you don't likely have the spacing between the rear dropouts to go to 8/9 speed. If you're 6 spd right now, you probably only have 120-126 between the rear dropouts now and you need at least 130mm. The dropouts can be cold-set spread, but there are few places I would trust to do this right and you'd also have to weigh the cost/benefit vs. buying new. Only way to know is to measure - who knows, maybe you'll get lucky - but doesn't sound like it. Good luck.

Romulus

Theoretically it is 126, but the Trek 560 has an interesting build... As a result, the spacing is much larger, I always have to force them inside to set the rear wheel. I don't think the spacing would be a problem, and it's usually not as much an issue with steel...

Right now I think I'd just consider changing the rim, even though it would be a darn hard job (sounds like), but Sheldon has good directions. Any further ideas would be appreciated...

operator

Who cares, you don't need 8-9-10-11-12 speed bikes. If it fits 6 spd, either go to 7 or keep it. A new wheel cost me exactly $60. Generic double wall alex rim on shimano alivio hub.

I find that i'm always switching between only 3 gears. Might as well turn it into 3 speed.

rufus

steel frame right, with downtube shifters?

if so, even if you don't cold set it, a new 9-speed wheel should fit in, but may require a little force to spread the stays a bit. my '89 7speed specialized sirrus took a 9speed wheel no problem. i would have done just a new rim, but a new 9speed wheel wasn't much more than the cost of a rim and a wheel rebuild. for that little bit extra, i said, hell, go to 9speed.

unless the rear derailleur is really worn and sloppy, it should shift the range, just adjust the limit screws. new chain, $20, but front chainrings ought to work fine, mine did. then, either switch to friction shifting, or buy a set of shimano 9speed downtube shifters for about $40. upgrade to 9speed on the cheap. if you're doing this all on ebay, even cheaper.