What brand of Tire Tubes do you use?
#29
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Am surprised at some people using heavy inner tubes. Wouldnt something 50-60g be faster than a 100g+ inner tube? Give that lightweight tubes are not that much more expensive. Personally i run Maxxis superlight that is 49g each.
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Where are you finding maxxis super light? I bought once and liked a lot, actually noticed a difference. But have trouble locating them. I know Amazon has them but in weird odd ball sizes or they come in weird bags with Asian characters on them - like they've been sitting in a box since '89.
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Bontrager AW3 tires in 700x25 on the road bike and 700x32 on the touring mutt. Continental tubes. Very pleased with the combination.
#33
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Walmart tubes. They're inexpensive and available 24 hours a day. The only downside is the narrowest tubes are 25s, so if you have narrower tires you're out of luck. Also not available in long stem. All my bikes have them except the two with modern wheels. I like the consistency of airing up the tires from bike to bike.
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+1
With tubes being so cheap I do not see the problem buying low cost and replacing when necessary. I carry a patch kit and spare tube all the time. If I get more than 2 flats on 1 ride I make the call to home and begin the walk of shame. Honestly though, tube are cheap. I never give them a 2nd thought. I've actually had a couple of Forte' tube fail immediately after installing and I just throw it away and grab another. I don't even bother taking it back to let the store know a seam or valve was bad.
I am blessed with smooth roads and few flats. Actually, my last flat was about 1 year ago.
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I don't know what kinda pump head that is.. My more pedestrian Joe Blow (Topeak) only extends down a total of 1.5cm. However from that, the gasket in the head (which is what people are worried about wearing out) only begins about .5cm from this furthest point. So IOW the clamping of the pump head is going on from about .5cm to 1cm below the end of the valve stem. Pretty sure it's not hitting the extra threads of a threaded-valve-stem type, but for sure is hitting the cap threads anyway.
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Vittoria latex in the summer, and Continental Race Light when I switch to the Conti GP 4 Season tires for durability during the cold and dark months. I switch because I truly hate flatting when it below 45F.
But those latex tubes sure ride nice. The lose air quickly, but it's worth it.
But those latex tubes sure ride nice. The lose air quickly, but it's worth it.
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Whatever the shop has, and although one bike has box rim wheels I'll get long stems regardless, since the others have 35 and 40mm rims. Oh, and they need to have threads, because my floor pump screws on.
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Any 'light' or 'super light' tube.
That way I can fit TWO tubes into my mini saddle bag.
That way I can fit TWO tubes into my mini saddle bag.
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Two wheels good. Four wheels bad.
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Whatever brand the LBS I am buying them from has in stock. My road bike is tubeless so I pretty much only need them for my touring bike.
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I agree that, rolling, tubes don't seem to make a whole lot of difference (latex notwithstanding), but they sure pack differently and weigh differently! Given we've got one of these (at least) stowed on the bike at all times, these are the things which matter to me.
Panaracer R'Air is the smallest 23c tube I've seen, and it is very low weight at 67g, like latex light, so that's my tube of choice. They're expensive, but for the rarity I need one and my preference for small seat bags, it's a fine tradeoff.
I've never heard of nor seen Maxxis Superlight as mentioned in an earlier post, but 49g seems unbelievable! If true, that might be the new tube for me, at least as the emergency tube for my tubeless sets; I'd worry it's too fragile for everyday use. I gotta go check it out...
EDIT: Maxxis site shows a tube called Flyweight at 44g for 18/25c...wow! I'm presuming less material packs smaller, but I'll order a couple (if not crazy pricey) and see.
Last edited by chaadster; 07-11-16 at 07:27 AM.
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Vittoria latex in the summer, and Continental Race Light when I switch to the Conti GP 4 Season tires for durability during the cold and dark months. I switch because I truly hate flatting when it below 45F.
But those latex tubes sure ride nice. The lose air quickly, but it's worth it.
But those latex tubes sure ride nice. The lose air quickly, but it's worth it.
I believe they are slightly more supple and stave off flats a bit, no?
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I start mine at 110PSI before every ride, and don't really notice and change as I ride. I'll have to check after the next long ride and see.
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Whatever the shop has, or whatever Amazon is carrying that pops up if I am already buying something up. You should definitely ride slower. You must be riding so fast you just burn up your tubes!
#46
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Whatever free ones come in the Merlin combos.
#47
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But to the OP, I just have a bunch of whatever I bought at the time and haven't seen a huge difference between brands. I just patch any holes that I get now instead of buying new tubes. Holes are usually a function of riding over something that pierces the tire and tube, and whatever will puncture a tire will usually puncture a tube even more easily.
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I don't know what kinda pump head that is.. My more pedestrian Joe Blow (Topeak) only extends down a total of 1.5cm. However from that, the gasket in the head (which is what people are worried about wearing out) only begins about .5cm from this furthest point. So IOW the clamping of the pump head is going on from about .5cm to 1cm below the end of the valve stem. Pretty sure it's not hitting the extra threads of a threaded-valve-stem type, but for sure is hitting the cap threads anyway.
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They'll lose about 15 PSI overnight. I'd guess about 3-5 PSI during a century, but I've never checked. I haven't flatted one, so the durability issue seems to be a non-issue. But they do ride nicely.
I start mine at 110PSI before every ride, and don't really notice and change as I ride. I'll have to check after the next long ride and see.
I start mine at 110PSI before every ride, and don't really notice and change as I ride. I'll have to check after the next long ride and see.
I've been using latex tubes (almost exclusively) since I switched from tubulars to my carbon clinchers (about 3 years). I've found as long as you stay away from the ultralight latex tubes (vredestein makes one), they're plenty durable. I've found them more resistant to blowouts - they often don't go completely flat- if I'm close enough to home I'll just pump it back up once or twice and it gets me there. They're also easy to repair (with standard patches and glue). The only drawback to them not going completely flat is I've had to partially inflate the tube and hold it underwater to find the pinhole (not really a problem). They do tend to lose 10-15 psi overnite, but I haven't had an issue w/ losing too much during the day. I use my commute as a training ride - pump the tires up to 95-100 psi before I leave, get into work around 5:30 am and leave around 3-3:30 PM. Never had an issue w/ air pressure for the ride home, nor on long rides (100-200 mi).
#50
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Here's a photo of my pump head's gasket.. somewhere between 7-8mm total thickness. This is inset approx. 4-5mm in from the very end of the pump head, meaning the end of the gasket is falling at 1.2cm from the end of the valve. At the worst, the most threaded stems I have begin about 1cm below the tip of the stem, meaning that 'maybe' the .7mm gasket is covering 1-2mm of the extra threads, but the bulk of the gasket is going over the stem cap's threads anyway. IOW, the discussion about threaded valves ruining pump heads is doing nothing but spreading FUD.