Doge

I think you read more into it. If I have $150K to spend on my first car and I say I've never driven, then someone advising me to rent a few, asking if I want an SUV or 4 door or 2 seater 1st before I spend my $150K seems reasonable advice. Saying $150K can get you a sports car that plenty good is not telling them they can't go spend $900K. It is saying $150K will get you to the track and playing with the other kids just fine.

BillyD

Yes, I guess I must have mis-read your post. I'm glad you distanced yourself from my misinterpretation.

HotWheels86

I also agree with using restraint and exercising caution when you start something like this that can easily take a lot of money out of your pocket. It's just common sense.

There is nothing wrong with mixing both paths mentioned here. Visit a bike shop and try out a few bikes to see how they feel. Learn by talking and researching. Narrow your field, find what you want, and then choose the best way to get what you want. If you find a good condition or easily repairable $3000 for $500 on Craigslist, go for it. You may even get more out of a used bike since you'll learn about basic bike repairs and maintenance. I did. I went the CL route and am better for it.

Explore all possibilities. Just because you may have $3000 doesn't mean you have to spend it all on the bike. You also have to take into account all your gear and clothes.

Calling someone else ignorant because you don't like their well-formed, reasoned, and explained post... Way to go keyboard hero, feeling good about yourself now?

mcours2006

OP's title of 'Total Newbie' is a bit misleading, then, considering he 'used to ride quite a bit'. If that's the case, then sure, spend the $3K on a road bike. In all likelihood you'll put it to good use for many years, or until you get the urge to upgrade. Three thousand dollars can get you a nice mid-range, 11-speed carbon bike. You'll probably want to upgrade the wheelset at some point, so factor in another $800-1000. Pedals, clothing, shoes, etc. all adds up pretty quickly. Then power meter, HR monitors...

Doge

Straight to the advice then...
Used you get more. Last year's model you get more. Mail order you get more. But a relationship with a LBS is valuable, as folks said.

Save some money for your kit. Shoes, shorts, helmet. I think selection in that order.

Choose along frame and components and fit. Fit 1st if you know, but hard advice to give on the Internet. You likely would ride a 56cm, 172.5 cranks, 42 wide bars. I gave that as a starter.

I'd suggest you look at the Shimano 105 to Ultegra components or SRAM Force (I don't know the SRAM and Campy equivalent lines so well). Avoid the Dura Ace / SRAM Red. If you get them in that price they will likely be older or worn.

Wheels - go cheap. These are great upgrades later and pages of posting in other threads should tell you that there are both many opinions and many options. If you race someday, as you said, you would likely buy race wheels. If road biking means dirt roads - you can get tires for that.

Frame. I would not buy a no-name carbon. I'm sure there are good ones. I'm also sure there are dangerous ones. If you were solo riding, steel might be good, but for what you said - Alloy or CF. They have different rides. Both are about equally as good in your value price range. The very top end are not alloy. I'd add an old Ti frame - depends - could be good. Ti would likely be the best ride of those meeting your criteria, but I doubt you'd get new in that price range.

Seats and stems are often changed. Don't be too concerned. Treat them kinda like wheels.

Pedals. This could be a long discussion. A pedal with single side entry and larger platform like the Look or Shimano is what I'd suggest. Use cleats with some float.

But, as others have suggested get into the relationship part of it if you can. Ask at group rides, the local bike shops.

WhyFi

Lol

...except it wasn't at all a well-formed or well-reasoned post. Doodling around the lake at 11mph is a different world from pushing yourself to the edge of your capabilities, which the OP has potentially set his sights on. You want to doodle along, fine, buy anything off of CL that's within a stone's throw of your size.

Pushing yourself means making sure that the bike is right for you under periods of heavy exertion for potentially long periods of time. All sorts of problems can creep up and hurt you (your knees, back, feet, hands, reproductive/recreational organs, etc) when things are a little out of alignment and you've got repetitive stresses acting on them (and this doesn't even address the performance inefficiencies). IMO, some time spent on a trainer is a good litmus test - when you're locked in for an hour or more and you can't hide issues by repeatedly standing and stopping, you'll find out real quick if things are out of whack. Let me know when your average CL seller provides this type of service.

HotWheels86

You can buy your bike from a random CL seller and go to a shop if you need service after the fact. You can also 'push yourself to your limits' on a random CL bike just as easy as a new bike shop one. You can also adjust whatever is needed to fit your list of points on a random CL bike as well. You know why? Those 'random CL bikes', well, started out at a bike shop.

A used bike does not lose it's capabilities. Two wheels, something to grip, something to sit on, basic drivetrain. Easy. Anything else you want, need, or desire to change... do it.

All those issues you point out can happen no matter what you do to try and avoid them also. You may not know there's an issue until it hits you. Your body may just start disagreeing with you at some random point. That's also why an accident is called an accident. Even the most seasoned cyclist on a high-end bike can damage anything you listed when something unexpected occurs. Watch the Olympics?

You also don't cover the point about going to a bike shop to get all relevant info and then saving some money by buying what you want at a greatly reduced price from a CL seller. Maybe you got burned by a CL scam? Maybe you're jaded? Maybe just an elitist? Who knows, don't care. There are options that you can't discount simply because you think you know better.

Also, since i'm sure it needs said... bike shops use CL too. Chew on that one for a bit.

WhyFi

This is you not getting it. Ta ta.

Jean3n16

Are you saying I doodle at 11mph or the OP because neither is true.

A CL bike doesnt have problems and neither does your fancy one- its the rider and working out any kinks.

Im not sure what your problem is either? YOU are claiming a higher priced bike and a LBS is the best option when i ( along with OTHERS) have said CL/used for a new person.

In the end, who really cares? Its not a competition. No one rides along as if its highschool making fun of someone for their bike.

PepeM

Didn't take long for this one to go down the drain...

****.

Homebrew01

MOD NOTE to ALL: On topic, or don't post. Thanks

caloso

My advice: Shop for a bike shop first. Once you've found one you like, start test riding the bikes they offer. When you find the bike that's right for you, you'll know.

jpres

Thanks for the suggestions!

Any recommendations for good brands and models for starter road bikes that I could potentially race eventually?

caloso

Cannondale CAAD10 or 12. Specialized Allez. Trek Emonda ALR. Giant TCR. All very raceable off-the-peg bikes under $2k. Basically, you're looking at fairly aggressive geometries in Al or CF, with 105/Force/Athena level groupsets.

You'll want to find a bike for less then $2k, assuming you need a kit, helmet, shoes, pump, saddle bag and flat kit, etc., etc., etc.

mcours2006

Yeah, what he said^^

Jean3n16

Not to beat a dead horse but its not a special bike, its your body that will let you race one day. You do want certain things to help you but they can be on ANY bike

Maelochs

Since the OP used to ride a lot, he probably has a good idea about what fits and doesn't and maybe how things work.

I would still recommend getting new ... for the warranty and the lifetime service deal he bargains for (If I dropped that much on a bike, I wouldn't leave without a lifetime service contract in writing.)

I would recommend doing Lots of Long test rides. I am sure if he goes to a shop sincerely looking to find a $300 bike, he will get some decent treatment (and if not, he can laugh all the way out the door.)

Unless he is bent on reaching Pro Tour-performance levels, he can race any bike at all. No need to buy a pure racing bike which might limit his other riding. So he needs to decide: is his focus racing and is his mindset so competitive that he won't leave the tiniest bit of potential performance on the table? Then he needs CF and Dura-Ace or Sram Red.

Also, if he is going dedicated race, he will want some superlight raced wheels and some training wheels. Add that to the budget.

Does he want to go on long weekend rides where he might want to push a little a lot of for 100 miles, but might Not want to? Consider endurance geometry ... with a simple stem flip he could go from relaxed to racy.

He could still race a more "all-around" road bike, and could buy a decent set of wheels (if it didn't come with decent wheels) which would work for all his riding needs ... if he was willing to know he could go a tiny bit faster if he spent a lot more.

I'd say, the guy really needs to test a lot of stuff, but he also needs to define and refine his goals.

Buying a $3000 bike is stupid if one buys the Wrong $3000 bike. If he blows his wad on a bike which is either racy too or not racy enough, he will probably be far less happy than the guy who got a brand new entry-level bike from Nashbar.

As to brand ... basically they are all the same. One dealer might offer a better deal on some part of the line, another on another. Components are all comparable across cost levels. The best idea would be too test-ride a lot, and if no one bike jumped out, then carefully weigh all the numbers ... and pick the bike with the best paint job.

Doge

Trek, Giant, Specialized, Fuji, Cervelo, Cannondale, MASI - (no order there).

But as others have suggested - look to a shop. They will likely NOT carry big competing brands. They will carry one major and maybe a few minors.

In my experience, bigger brands do not mean better service. So the shop/dealer matters.

Oh - and save your receipt.

Doge

esp if you like to climb.

longbeachgary

What is wrong with you people? Is it winter rage already?

CreamyPete

Hey, if it goes that way, someone gets a good deal on a bike, and someone learns more about what they actually consider fun. It works.
Op, have fun, go ride some bikes. The suggestion to get something ride able and reliable, but less than precious to start t on is a good one, but not gospel. Hell $3K may be less than precious to you, and awesome for you if that's the case.
Keep your options open for a bit.

Doge

I don't get either. What is wrong with this thread's responses and what is winter?