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Cracked stem

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Old 03-24-17, 10:05 AM
  #26  
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^^^^
Spooky!
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Old 03-24-17, 10:25 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Scarbo
^^^^
Spooky!
I googled "Thomson stem cracked".


Lots of pictures.


Probably not unique to Thomson, but I'm not going to keep looking for other brands.
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Old 03-28-17, 04:27 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by TenGrainBread
Thomson stuff is very strong and heavily tested, and not much lighter than other production stuff out there. Popular in downhill mtb circuit, etc... Nothing gets by without a failure here or there. Let's not misinform the lurkers out there...
Correct. Just took off the Thomson and it indeed did crack all the way through the metal at the 3:00 position. It weighed in at 138 grams and the Easton EA 90 I replaced it with weighed 128 grams.
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Old 03-28-17, 06:03 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by whitemax
Correct. Just took off the Thomson and it indeed did crack all the way through the metal at the 3:00 position. It weighed in at 138 grams and the Easton EA 90 I replaced it with weighed 128 grams.
The FSA OS-99 all alloy stem is a good one. Lighter and cheaper and so far I have no complaints.
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Old 04-29-17, 06:52 PM
  #30  
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Good observation strange place to start failing. I know this sounds stupid but are you sure it's a crack. Sometimes you can chase a crack to see how deep and get some clues. Do you use TRI bar extensions or did you have a loose headset? One things for sure, this stem is not up to par. A stem should be able to take regular loads a few times over before a yield. I lost a little respect for this company.
Originally Posted by whitemax
Guess you could let that one go till the crack reached the faceplate. Seriously, that is the strangest place for a crack to appear.
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Old 04-29-17, 06:55 PM
  #31  
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Thanks for the information on ball burnishing.
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Please do not read this as some kind of critique or warning, but.....

Thomson, like many makers of "machined from billet" stems don't do a step that was common BITD of forged quill stems.

Ball burnishing "tightens" up the surface structure of aluminum parts, partly duplicating and/or enhancing the effects of near net forging. By compressing and flowing the surface it closes surface micro cracks that may otherwise become the seeds from which cracks grow.

As mentioned, ball burnishing used to be SOP, but has gone out of fashion, probably for cosmetic reasons. Also keep in mind, that aluminum, (both forged and machined) is vulnerable to corrosion, which cause surface defects that later start the cracking/fatigue process.

On the bright side well designed and built can tolerate crack formation for quite a while before failing. I suspect that this stem's crack woulf have become obvious either by sight or sound (creaking) or even by feeling looser well before it let go.

So, don't obsess, but don't neglect or take your aluminum parts for granted either.
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