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Ok... the truth about wheels

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Ok... the truth about wheels

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Old 05-24-17, 02:21 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
you can ask any number of people their opinions about such things, but until you put the miles in on multiple bikes with various types of wheels and tires yourself, you'll never know. it varies from person to person and for various reasons.

but i will say this, i've found precious little difference between middle of the road priced, or even DIY wheels and the expensive stuff. work on dropping five percent of your body weight if you really want to make or feel a difference in performance.
Agree.

Most meaningful upgrade is good tires. And learning that max PSI is too effing high!
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Old 05-24-17, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Maelochs
I suspect this is the case with most "upgrades."
I put a 300 watt speaker on my bike, and I was really disappointed that I didn't go any faster with it. I mean, c'mon, 300 watts.

But then one day I left the speaker home, and used it to play Lincoln Park. Fastest sprint of my life, until I was out of earshot.

The parachute upgrade actually made me slower.
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Old 05-24-17, 02:23 PM
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Thank you all for the replies.
I have a Domane S 6
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...ode=white_blue

Im not saying is not stable, just wonder if there would be an improvement. Because Im a rookie I don't have a lot of comparison.

My generic question is if it's really worth spending 500 in a 3K bike
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Old 05-24-17, 02:33 PM
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I cannot see why you would be having any stability issues related to your wheels.

If your tires are properly inflated .... you should be absolutely stable--within your ability to balance on a bike at all.
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Old 05-24-17, 04:53 PM
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I saw this thread and thought what a peasant you no BRAGGING RIGHTs! Im told by lbs my guy that you need the TOP TIER of wheels for showing all your monies to. They are the lightest in the universe of course but cost alot and I can afford it. You can check this thread here for the best info on it.

https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...ht-wheels.html
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Old 05-24-17, 05:09 PM
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Also, what is the minimum rim with I need to fit 28mm tires?
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Old 05-24-17, 05:49 PM
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You might as well throw in the towel kid. Only way to stay upright on a bike is to spend $12K or more. Minimum $12K.

I see cyclists splayed out on the side of the road all the time. They cry out: "help! I've fallen and I can't get up!" All to no avail. Silly peasants thought they could get away spending $7K on a bike.

You can't remain upright without spending at least $11.9K. Minimum.
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Old 05-24-17, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by dvai
Also, what is the minimum rim with I need to fit 28mm tires?
They'll fit on basically anything.

If you're looking at aero rims, forget minima and maxima; in that case, never use a tire bigger than what the manufacturer says it's designed for, because doing so destroys the aero profile.
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Old 05-24-17, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by reggieray
The only thing in cycling that is a bigger scam than carbon wheels or superlight aluminum wheels is ceramic bearings.

They're all overpriced junk for fat old men who don't know the first thing about training.
I have to agree. I succumbed to the hype this winter and picked up a set of 303s and have not found them to be any faster than my 28/32 spoke 240s/Belgium wheelset that I built up last winter. Maybe it makes a slight difference for guys at the absolute highest levels but I've found carbon wheels to be nothing but hype.
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Old 05-25-17, 04:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazzguitar
I have to agree. I succumbed to the hype this winter and picked up a set of 303s and have not found them to be any faster than my 28/32 spoke 240s/Belgium wheelset that I built up last winter.
That says more about your measurement abilities than anything to do with the wheels.
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Old 05-25-17, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by asgelle
That says more about your measurement abilities than anything to do with the wheels.
Seeing as how my Garmin is doing the measuring I'd say it was quite good.
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Old 05-25-17, 05:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Jazzguitar
Seeing as how my Garmin is doing the measuring I'd say it was quite good.
Speechless.
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Old 05-25-17, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas
Agree.

Most meaningful upgrade is good tires. And learning that max PSI is too effing high!
What do you mean?
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Old 05-25-17, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by SylvainG
What do you mean?
That just pumping your tires to the max PSI is often a terrible idea.

Relevant to point out because a fair amount of people who shouldn't be doing it, do it.
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Old 05-25-17, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev
That just pumping your tires to the max PSI is often a terrible idea.

Relevant to point out because a fair amount of people who shouldn't be doing it, do it.
Yeah, I got that point but, why?
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Old 05-25-17, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SylvainG
Yeah, I got that point but, why?
A - It's uncomfortable

B - On imperfect surfaces (includes new, smooth asphalt) a relatively lower tire pressure will actually be faster. Basically if the whole bike and your body are bouncing up and down, even vibrating, you slow down. It takes energy to vibrate 200 lbs of bike and person...and that energy is subtracted from forward momentum. Let the tires do their job, which is to cushion the ride.
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Old 05-25-17, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by asgelle
Speechless.
Well I put on 5.5k miles on the HEDs last year so you could maybe say that I have a pretty good idea of how they ride. Granted I only have about 400 miles on the Zipps, but on the same courses I am repeatedly about the same as with the HEDs, that's enough proof for me. If there is any difference it's not 3x better than my other wheelset.

And since you're implying that I just can't measure the difference, isn't that just proving my point? At 3x the cost I should be able to tell the difference without having to go into a lab. FWIW I can easily tell the difference when I'm riding my cheaper and heavier wheelset so I don't think my lack of perception is the problem.

Anyway, ride what you like and spend your money where you want, it makes no difference to me.

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Old 05-25-17, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by SylvainG
Yeah, I got that point but, why?
probably because it's the only number referencing PSI that is commonly visible on bike tires.
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Old 05-25-17, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by datlas
Agree.

Most meaningful upgrade is good tires. And learning that max PSI is too effing high!
Depends on the weight on bike and road.
Sometimes - it is too low.
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Old 05-26-17, 12:41 AM
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Replacing the stock wheels (around $200, 2kg) transformed my bikes. The most drastic improvement was in the handling. I'm not sure if it was shedding 500g, or the quality of the hubs, spokes and rims that made the difference.

Carbon vs alloy is up to you. If you're a WW go carbon. If you need deep section for for 20mph+, go carbon. If you want bling, go carbon. Otherwise aluminum rims are fine. HED Belgiums are plenty bling for me.
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Old 05-26-17, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by speshelite
You might as well throw in the towel kid. Only way to stay upright on a bike is to spend $12K or more. Minimum $12K.

I see cyclists splayed out on the side of the road all the time. They cry out: "help! I've fallen and I can't get up!" All to no avail. Silly peasants thought they could get away spending $7K on a bike.

You can't remain upright without spending at least $11.9K. Minimum.
I am a scientist and can reaffirm that this is true.
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Old 05-26-17, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by reggieray
The only thing in cycling that is a bigger scam than carbon wheels or superlight aluminum wheels is ceramic bearings.

They're all overpriced junk for fat old men who don't know the first thing about training.
Well, I don't believe either is a scam, but they are of *very* limited benefit anyone who doesn't race. At 30-35MPH, well, yes. You'll see a benefit. But for me? Who averages around 17MPH? Nah. Stock DT Swiss is just fine, thanks.

Tires, on the other hand...
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Old 05-26-17, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan
One thing I noticed on the stock wheels (PR-2?) on my former Giant defy was low spoke tension and obvious brake rub. Better wheels that that is definitely available, or an experienced mechanic could have improved on the poor factory assembly. I do how ever agree that there needs to be some reason to buy new wheels other than "just because" or imagined shortcomings. If possible try some "better" wheels before committing to the expense.
Sorry Dan, but low spoke tension has nothing to do with brake rub.
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Old 05-26-17, 07:15 AM
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The problem with asking opinions on upgrades is confirmation bias.


I know people who swore that their power balance bracelet made them feel like a new person.
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Old 05-26-17, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Racing Dan
The irony is that fewer spokes require a stronger and heavier rim and crazy spoke tension. I have 20+ year old wheels, with 32 slim spokes, that are as light as any reasonable (outside of exotica) wheel you can buy today. We are literally reinventing the wheel.
Lower spoke count wheels do not require higher spoke tension. The notion that they do is a myth. Higher spoke tension also has no effect on wheel stiffness.

Also if you have fewer spokes, you need a more flexible rim to avoid brake rub. That is hard to believe until you analyze the situation, but then it is an obvious truth. It is true that you will have flexy wheels with fewer spokes and a flexy rim, but that is the price to play. If you want to avoid brake rub with fewer and/or lighter gauge spokes you must avoid a stiff rim. A flexy rim bends at the horizontal axis when stressed instead of rotating around the horizontal axis and hitting the brakes. A stiff rim doesn't bend as much, but rotates in a plane around the horizontal axis causing brake rub. So more spokes or heavier spokes help prevent the rotation caused by the stiff rim.
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