Latex or butyl?
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Sealant seals holes, not intact surfaces. If you are going to make a claim, you should have an explanation for it. Besides there are other possible reasons for the slower air loss. If your tube is heavier than mine, your rate of air loss will be lower.
Last edited by rpenmanparker; 05-30-17 at 01:00 PM.
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Your journey to enlightenment commences. Good luck.
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You have no idea what or whom you are talking about. Give it up or look and sound even more foolish than you do already.
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You two guys . . . you know who I mean . . . it wouldn't hurt to calm down a little.
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Latex tubes can be more finicky to install than butyl tubes but if you trap either between the tire and rim it will fail.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
#82
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If you have a dedicated, full-on TT bike that has been fitted to you then there is no reason not to try to squeeze an extra watt of savings by putting up with whatever additional expense/quirks/inconvenience of rolling latex (especially if these races come down to mere seconds.)
Not worth it for everyday riding IMHO.
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That is sensible. But on the other hand, whatever is in the saddle bag is a permanent fixture of the bike for all practical purposes. And it's almost never used compared to functioning parts. If I'm concerned about weight on the bike, I think it's an even higher priority in the bag and I want the lightest possible contents there, even if they don't work as well. Since they're basically not used. So I think I'd want the latex tube in the saddle bag, and tubes that hold air inside the tires.
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That is sensible. But on the other hand, whatever is in the saddle bag is a permanent fixture of the bike for all practical purposes. And it's almost never used compared to functioning parts. If I'm concerned about weight on the bike, I think it's an even higher priority in the bag and I want the lightest possible contents there, even if they don't work as well. Since they're basically not used. So I think I'd want the latex tube in the saddle bag, and tubes that hold air inside the tires.
If you're only doing club rides and the like and are always carrying a saddle bag, then I wouldn't even worry with latex. Hard to justify.
I only use latex in my race wheels, and my race wheels are only on my bike during race season, and then only because it's too much of a hassle to swap brake pads every week. If I have a long stretch without racing, I put back on the aluminum wheels with butyl tubes.
#86
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My new tires get delivered today so I'm curious to see what improvements they have over the original stock rubber. But, dang, you guys really got me curious to try latex. I like experimenting and tinkering, that was a way of life when I flew RC planes.
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Saddle bags and performance don't go in the same sentence for me. Saddle bag always comes off when I want to go fast.
If you're only doing club rides and the like and are always carrying a saddle bag, then I wouldn't even worry with latex. Hard to justify.
I only use latex in my race wheels, and my race wheels are only on my bike during race season, and then only because it's too much of a hassle to swap brake pads every week. If I have a long stretch without racing, I put back on the aluminum wheels with butyl tubes.
If you're only doing club rides and the like and are always carrying a saddle bag, then I wouldn't even worry with latex. Hard to justify.
I only use latex in my race wheels, and my race wheels are only on my bike during race season, and then only because it's too much of a hassle to swap brake pads every week. If I have a long stretch without racing, I put back on the aluminum wheels with butyl tubes.
I'd want every edge I could get in a race, even if it meant strapping CO2 to the hub with an electronic valve. I could see wanting latex tubes in that case.
#88
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Take the top end of the range, 3 watts per tire, total 6 watts, and for a cyclist doing a 40km TT in an hour,
Latex tubes would save 37 seconds. Even if its just one watt per wheel, its still a 9 second difference.
That's a pretty significant difference for a TT. And it comes very cheap.
Just because you're not paid to race, doesn't mean you shouldn't race to win, and make equipment choices that help that effort.
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You could hit a tree and die.
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#89
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How long does one of your races last? It seems to me that the whole discussion of the drawbacks of latex is moot, if the only concern is performance at an event for an hour or two.
I'd want every edge I could get in a race, even if it meant strapping CO2 to the hub with an electronic valve. I could see wanting latex tubes in that case.
I'd want every edge I could get in a race, even if it meant strapping CO2 to the hub with an electronic valve. I could see wanting latex tubes in that case.
IME, 10%, or less, air pressure loss in 24 hours is typical with latex tubes.
People have been doing long stages of the Tour de France for a very long time on latex tubed tubulars, without pressure loss being an issue.
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You could fall off a cliff and die.
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You could hit a tree and die.
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You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
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#90
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its more than 10ths of seconds.
Take the top end of the range, 3 watts per tire, total 6 watts, and for a cyclist doing a 40km TT in an hour,
Latex tubes would save 37 seconds. Even if its just one watt per wheel, its still a 9 second difference.
That's a pretty significant difference for a TT. And it comes very cheap.
Just because you're not paid to race, doesn't mean you shouldn't race to win, and make equipment choices that help that effort.
Take the top end of the range, 3 watts per tire, total 6 watts, and for a cyclist doing a 40km TT in an hour,
Latex tubes would save 37 seconds. Even if its just one watt per wheel, its still a 9 second difference.
That's a pretty significant difference for a TT. And it comes very cheap.
Just because you're not paid to race, doesn't mean you shouldn't race to win, and make equipment choices that help that effort.
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How long does one of your races last? It seems to me that the whole discussion of the drawbacks of latex is moot, if the only concern is performance at an event for an hour or two.
I'd want every edge I could get in a race, even if it meant strapping CO2 to the hub with an electronic valve. I could see wanting latex tubes in that case.
I'd want every edge I could get in a race, even if it meant strapping CO2 to the hub with an electronic valve. I could see wanting latex tubes in that case.
Definitely worth it in races, in my opinion, but you're also not dealing with changing out flats. You just take a new wheel.
I run sealant in my latex tubes, too, so a little added protection with no rolling resistance penalties or the like.
#92
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Latex tubes can be more finicky to install than butyl tubes but if you trap either between the tire and rim it will fail.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
Putting sealant into a latex tube does reduce pressure loss, but you can only do this for latex tubes that have valves with removable cores. Mine don't so I just pump them up before rides.
#94
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Latex tubes can be more finicky to install than butyl tubes but if you trap either between the tire and rim it will fail.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
Latex tubes leak air at a measured and well established rate of between .5 and 1 psi per hour.
Sealant installed in a latex tube will cut the rate of air leakage down to at least the level of a standard butyl tube, if not better. This has been proven conclusively. I have a latex tube in use right now in which I installed sealant following a very small puncture, and this tube leaks air at a rate of less than 10psi per week. Many non-tubeless mountain bike tires will aggressively leak air through the sidewalls before sealant is installed, which stops completely following sealant installation. My mountain bike tires have the same psi right now as they did when I last rode them 11 days ago. That phenomenon is settled, it is not in debate.
Latex tubes have a consistently measured advantage of roughly 3w per tire over standard butyl tubes. Lightweight butyl tubes (which leak air, btw) split the difference between the two.
MSRP for a latex tube is generally ~$20, lightweight butyl is ~$10, standard butyl is ~$8. Put in one perspective, a 6w gain for ~$24, or ~$4/w, is about the cheapest performance gain you can make on a bike. Whether that is relevant to you is entirely yours to decide.
I personally find a readily identifiable compliance/suppleness benefit when using latex versus either standard or lightweight butyl. My acuity with such things seems to vary with different things, so I would not necessarily call myself an across the board highly sensitive person. You may or may not perceive this.
That's basically it.
#95
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Can't argue with Dave. All I can say is that I have quite different experience. All the Vittoria Corsa CXs I have used over the last several years with latex tubes have lost more than 24 psi over a 24 hour period. And Pit Stop added to them has made no difference. Zip. Go figure.
To say '0.5 - 1 psi/hour' is a bit simplistic in this regard given the wide range of pressures used by cyclists and variability of tube thicknesses. There is also the factor of potentially leaky presta valves/valve extenders.
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Can't argue with Dave. All I can say is that I have quite different experience. All the Vittoria Corsa CXs I have used over the last several years with latex tubes have lost more than 24 psi over a 24 hour period. And Pit Stop added to them has made no difference. Zip. Go figure.
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There are basically two kinds of sealants. Those that contain natural rubber latex and those based on glycol solvent(s) with cellulose fibers. The former are recommended mainly for tubeless applications and the latter are recommended for tubes. I suspect, however, that everything we are talking about here are latex type since they are the most commonly used type in bicycle tires and do work in tubes.
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