Wrapping handlebar tape with expander plug
#1
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Wrapping handlebar tape with expander plug
When using the expander type bar plug, should you start by leaving any tape past the end so that it can be tucked in? The videos show the tape being folded back into end of the bar but this plug seems pretty tight in there even without the tape, I'm not sure if there would be room for the **** as well.
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I always leave about 1/2 of the width of the tape past the bar end. I just finished wrapping up my handlebar and used expander bar plugs from Kustomcaps.com which fit without any issues.
#3
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I never leave any tape loose at the end of the bar. IMO that went out with cellophane tape, which was wrapped from the top down and had to be secured with the plug at the bar end.
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Hmmm, by coincidence I just experienced this as I rewrapped my vintage Opus III this morning with a thick synthetic leather tape. No way the thick tape would tuck in with the tight expanding bar end plugs. So I wrapped the tape even with the end of the bars. Then I used the same brown finishing tape I used up top. I ran a thin overlap on the bar tape with most of it sticking out past the bar. I then tucked this tape into the bar and inserted the bar plugs. I've actually used this technique on other bars to add a touch of contrasting color to the bike. Many would probably shudder at someone doing such a thing, LOL!
This is the same method used on my Prologue, best picture I have to show what I'm talking about.
This is the same method used on my Prologue, best picture I have to show what I'm talking about.
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#5
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Hmmm, by coincidence I just experienced this as I rewrapped my vintage Opus III this morning with a thick synthetic leather tape. No way the thick tape would tuck in with the tight expanding bar end plugs. So I wrapped the tape even with the end of the bars. Then I used the same brown finishing tape I used up top. I ran a thin overlap on the bar tape with most of it sticking out past the bar. I then tucked this tape into the bar and inserted the bar plugs. I've actually used this technique on other bars to add a touch of contrasting color to the bike. Many would probably shudder at someone doing such a thing, LOL!
This is the same method used on my Prologue, best picture I have to show what I'm talking about.
This is the same method used on my Prologue, best picture I have to show what I'm talking about.
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Does Park tool make a rubber mallet suited to this?
#9
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I will say that I've noticed that the guys in my favorite LBS have not tucked in the tape on several of the bikes they did for me. With the stretchy, thick synthetic cork I prefer it holds really well without being tucked in. In fact those bikes have thousands of miles on them with out any issues. They start at the end of the bar and with the plugs in it's a very clean finish. Most importantly, no unraveling so is it really necessary in all cases is a good question.
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I've seen some bikes where the tape isn't tucked in but they have one thing in common. They all seem to be cork-like, foam or leather type bar tape which are much thicker than say the Fizik SL classic (my preference) or Lizard Skins 1.8.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
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just make sure if you aren't going to tuck that the end plugs extend past the lip of the bar end, some don't and can do some damage in even otherwise benign crashes
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I've seen some bikes where the tape isn't tucked in but they have one thing in common. They all seem to be cork-like, foam or leather type bar tape which are much thicker than say the Fizik SL classic (my preference) or Lizard Skins 1.8.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
#13
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1. put expander plugs in before the tape goes on
2. wrap double stick tape around the very end of the bar at the flange of the plugs
3. cut a taper on the bar tape the match the starting angle of the wrap
3. wrap the tape, starting on the double stick tape, being sure the angle matches and that the angle allows enough overlap to keep the starting edge from coming loose.
4. wrap all the way to the top and finish with electrical tape.
I have done this the last 5-6 times I wrapped my bars and have had no issues with it coming loose, and it looks so much tidier at the bar end than overwrap and pounding in a plug.
Not my original idea, but glad i ran across it at some point.
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i used to think this too, but now do it this way:
1. put expander plugs in before the tape goes on
2. wrap double stick tape around the very end of the bar at the flange of the plugs
3. cut a taper on the bar tape the match the starting angle of the wrap
3. wrap the tape, starting on the double stick tape, being sure the angle matches and that the angle allows enough overlap to keep the starting edge from coming loose.
4. wrap all the way to the top and finish with electrical tape.
I have done this the last 5-6 times I wrapped my bars and have had no issues with it coming loose, and it looks so much tidier at the bar end than overwrap and pounding in a plug.
Not my original idea, but glad i ran across it at some point.
1. put expander plugs in before the tape goes on
2. wrap double stick tape around the very end of the bar at the flange of the plugs
3. cut a taper on the bar tape the match the starting angle of the wrap
3. wrap the tape, starting on the double stick tape, being sure the angle matches and that the angle allows enough overlap to keep the starting edge from coming loose.
4. wrap all the way to the top and finish with electrical tape.
I have done this the last 5-6 times I wrapped my bars and have had no issues with it coming loose, and it looks so much tidier at the bar end than overwrap and pounding in a plug.
Not my original idea, but glad i ran across it at some point.
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Why does bar tape exist?
One can use non-road bike handlebar grip covers as tubes on the drops and cut and held on with cable ties on the hoods and the result will be
1) a lot more padding
2) easier to fit
3) easier to fit and refit when replacing cables
4) really cheap from China at less than 1USD a pair with three pairs needed to cover drops and hoods.
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
One can use non-road bike handlebar grip covers as tubes on the drops and cut and held on with cable ties on the hoods and the result will be
1) a lot more padding
2) easier to fit
3) easier to fit and refit when replacing cables
4) really cheap from China at less than 1USD a pair with three pairs needed to cover drops and hoods.
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
#17
Senior Member
I've seen some bikes where the tape isn't tucked in but they have one thing in common. They all seem to be cork-like, foam or leather type bar tape which are much thicker than say the Fizik SL classic (my preference) or Lizard Skins 1.8.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
My newest build, with the Fizik SL classic tape and expander plugs; you can see its much thinner than other bar tape.
#18
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Why does bar tape exist?
One can use non-road bike handlebar grip covers as tubes on the drops and cut and held on with cable ties on the hoods and the result will be
1) a lot more padding
2) easier to fit
3) easier to fit and refit when replacing cables
4) really cheap from China at less than 1USD a pair with three pairs needed to cover drops and hoods.
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
One can use non-road bike handlebar grip covers as tubes on the drops and cut and held on with cable ties on the hoods and the result will be
1) a lot more padding
2) easier to fit
3) easier to fit and refit when replacing cables
4) really cheap from China at less than 1USD a pair with three pairs needed to cover drops and hoods.
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
Interesting- same with the stem drop.
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Why does bar tape exist?
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
I do not need the bar tape on this bike
Drop Tube Replaced with Chinese Grips by Timothy Takemoto, on Flickr
That photo answers your question
#21
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#23
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This stuff is great. For holding cable is place under the tape, when you have to rewrap, no sticky mess as with electrical tape or strapping tape. For the top end of the bar tape, presuming that you start at the end of the bar, I cut the strip wider in the middle so that when you stretch it the width becomes more uniform. Again, no sticky mess after a few rides in the summer heat. It has been in place on my CAAD for 3 years and is as tight now as it was when I initially used it. Can't get a lot better than that.
But for C&V bikes, shellaced (sp) twine looks great over cotton tape.
But for C&V bikes, shellaced (sp) twine looks great over cotton tape.
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The crap you people go through...lordy. Wrap it, tuck it, plug it, tape it, and done.
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I wrap my tape from the top down so I don't have to use that unsightly electrical tape. Just tuck any remaining tape into the bottom of the bar and put in the plug, no scissors needed. I use PRO expander plugs, works great, but having the tape tucked into the end works fine with standard plugs as well.