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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

How Much Weight Can Ultra Light Bikes Take

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Old 09-26-05, 09:32 AM
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How Much Weight Can Ultra Light Bikes Take

How much rider weight can ultra light bicycles take? Being a larger person, hoping to become a slightly smaller one through riding, I have read and heard that some of the ultra light weight parts can not handle riders over 180-200lbs. Is this true and is it true that some manufactures will not cover broken parts if you are over this weight? This kind of stuff is making me wonder if I should wait until I drop a few lbs before buying a new high end bike. For reference I am 6 foot 250lb or as the press would say a adverage size American male .
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Old 09-26-05, 09:56 AM
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Lets say you are currently riding a 10kg bike. You weigh 113 kilos, plus the bike is 123kg.

If you get an 'ultra-light' bike, at the UCI weight limit of 6.8kg (cost - about $4000), your overall (bike + rider) weight will be (113 + 6.8 = 119.8kg)

The comparison of total weight is therefore as follows.

Old total 123kg (100%)
New total 119.8kg (97.4%)

A total weight reduction for rider and bike of 2.6%, cost $4000. You would't begin to notice the difference.

You are too fat for a light bike. Go on a diet, then get one.

For reference, I'm the same height as you, and 100 pounds lighter. That's (as the press would say) an average cyclist's build.
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Old 09-26-05, 10:12 AM
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What are YOU considering an ultra light bike?

To me, my <19lb Bianchi is "ultra-light" since I am used to riding 35+lb mountain bikes. As of this morning I am at 284. Once I get back to MY race weight, 235 to 240, I will be keeping up with some of the fastest riders once again

No need for a real "ultra-light" ride. Get something around 20lbs. As your weight drops you will become a more proficient rider.


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Old 09-26-05, 10:25 AM
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some companies (more should) have 90kg (~200lb) rider weight limits on most of their frames, with 75kg (~165lb) limits on the really light stuff

Viner is the only company I can think of at the moment with weight limits. They have a 90kg limit on just about all their frames, perhaps only as a guide,but I figure it's a good guide

note the little 90kg man on the right, and this is the steel model!!!!


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Old 09-26-05, 10:54 AM
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I was a bit worried about that when I bought my Lemond. It's not a particularly light bike, but at 6'2" and 220 I'm not a particularly light person either. The guy at the shop said Lemond and Trek both have no weight limits on their frames.
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Old 09-26-05, 11:52 AM
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I am 6'2", 225, ride a CAAD8 R1000, have only 1k miles on it but no problems so far.
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Old 09-26-05, 01:50 PM
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Thanks for the info., I know I am over weight, that's why I am out there on the bike to drop a few lbs but there is no way I could ever get down to 150 with out having some horrible wasting disease . I also know even if I get back down to 180-200 a really light bike is wasted on me but that does not stop me from enjoying the ride. I am older (40) kind of fat (as you pointed out) and gimpy (fused ankle) but I still like getting out there just for fun and I am not under the mis-guided impression that I can keep up with some 20 year old weighing 120-150 lbs. A new bike would be fun so against my own lap times I might improve and be able to go faster, faster is always more fun .
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Old 09-26-05, 02:05 PM
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I think some of the components have weight limits but rarely the frames. When I was fat (about 70 lbs. ago) I rode a steel bike with 32 spoke wheels and it worked out just fine. I can ride light bikes now and I have a couple but it's the loss of body weight that has really made the difference. A couple of pounds on the bike frame is chicken feed compared to losing 70 lbs on the human frame.

Honestly, it is a lot easier and less expensive (and healthier) to remove weight from your body than from the bike and the effect on your cycling performance will be positive. I would just get the quality of bicycle you want and can afford and let the weight fall where it falls. It won't matter for many more pounds. Just stay away from wheels with few spokes, titanium spindled bottom brackets or pedals and that sort of thing.
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Old 09-29-05, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Motophoto
Thanks for the info., I know I am over weight, that's why I am out there on the bike to drop a few lbs but there is no way I could ever get down to 150 with out having some horrible wasting disease . I also know even if I get back down to 180-200 a really light bike is wasted on me but that does not stop me from enjoying the ride. I am older (40) kind of fat (as you pointed out) and gimpy (fused ankle) but I still like getting out there just for fun and I am not under the mis-guided impression that I can keep up with some 20 year old weighing 120-150 lbs. A new bike would be fun so against my own lap times I might improve and be able to go faster, faster is always more fun .
Hey man, It's never too late to get into shape.
I weighed 250lbs at 5'9... 2 years ago. I am now 185lbs and CUT. I now have a triathlete's body (or very close to it). Besides hitting the treadmill, I rode my old Nishiki bike for quite some time, I only recently picked up a Cannondale Saeco Team Replica. I can tell you that my training would not be the same if I rode such an easy bike.

Although cycling doesn't burn as much calories as jogging on the treadmill, it will raise your cardio if you burst into sprints every 3-4 minutes for 1.5-2 minutes in duration. And it's safer for your overweight body by causing much less stress on your joints. Good Luck with your quest, you're doing the right thing by losing weight!!!! I am 27 with a pronounced level of arthritis for my age, and the bones stopped cracking as soon as I lost the weight. It's never too late!

P.S. COUNT YOUR CALORIES!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 09-30-05, 08:38 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement I need it. The doctor says that it is best if I use a bike or the pool for exercise, I chose the bike for now......Speedo . My routine is to ride aound our downtown airport road which has very little traffic 3 to 4 laps three times per week each lap is 3.7 miles. I peddle non-stop the whole time with a slower first lap and last lap. What I am up against is age, weight and infermity. I am 40 years old now and at 6 foot 250 pounds I am at least 50-60 pounds over where I should be, I also have a host of medical problems. I have a fused ankle (there is no movement in the ankle it is solid) and arthritis in the other legs knee but I hope to feel better after I am lighter and in better shape. I have already noticed that I am feeling a little bit better overall after just two months on the bike.

The best part is after I reach my goal I am going to buy myself a new Cervelo bike .
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Old 09-30-05, 08:52 AM
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Excellent! I'm guessing that if you can keep it up and swim/ride a trainer in the winter, ride through next summer, you'll be down to 190'ish and won't believe how much better you'll feel. It's pretty amazing how some time on the bike will make many of life's other little aches and pains (the ones you thought were just part of aging) go away. Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.
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Old 09-30-05, 09:09 AM
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at 250lbs, I think your biggest issue will be wheels. I wouldn't buy something superlite. Kyserium SL's would be a good choice, reasonably light and very strong. Also pinch flats can be an issue. You might consider a little wider tire if you find yourself having a lot of flats (e.g 700 x 25c , instead of 23c) If you do want a high end wheel, Zipp makes a 404 for Clydesdales (over 200lbs). If you do ride with 23c's , pump them way up.
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Old 09-30-05, 11:08 AM
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Why wait? The bs above about being too fat is just that-bs. I was up around 300 when I started out last year and 3000 miles later I am at just below 250 and getting smaller. The litespeed ghisallo for next year is a super light frame and has NO weight limit... What you may feel is flex, and you may destroy superlight wheels. And there are some pedals etc that have weight limits-what you can do though, is build up one heck of a 16-17 lb bike that is fast, comfortable, handles well and makes you want to ride it every day-which is a big winner. And though the folks that are less gravity challenged will claim you can't tell and difference, and that its easier to loose the weight-when you are riding seriously, you can tell the difference.... I can feel the extra 3 lbs my felt weighs over my Litespeed Tuscany, just like I could tell the 1.5 lbs more my old Litespeed Firenze weighed over the Tuscany. I can also tell the difference between my 30 lb foes and my sub 25 pound Niota. Is it a bunch? I would say it isn't the biggest factor-but it is close (in the top 3). You can tell the geometry changes, and the difference in the wheels stiffness more. Get a strong, light frame that fits you, put on some good, strong light wheels, get a good group on it (say Ultegra), make concessions for your weight and lack of shape (Like a compact crank and 12-25, or get a tripple)and ride the heck out of it. 16-17 lbs will MAKE you want to be there more than anywhere else.

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Old 09-30-05, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike552
Hey man, It's never too late to get into shape.
I weighed 250lbs at 5'9... 2 years ago. I am now 185lbs and CUT. I now have a triathlete's body (or very close to it). Besides hitting the treadmill, I rode my old Nishiki bike for quite some time, I only recently picked up a Cannondale Saeco Team Replica. I can tell you that my training would not be the same if I rode such an easy bike.

Although cycling doesn't burn as much calories as jogging on the treadmill, it will raise your cardio if you burst into sprints every 3-4 minutes for 1.5-2 minutes in duration. And it's safer for your overweight body by causing much less stress on your joints. Good Luck with your quest, you're doing the right thing by losing weight!!!! I am 27 with a pronounced level of arthritis for my age, and the bones stopped cracking as soon as I lost the weight. It's never too late!

P.S. COUNT YOUR CALORIES!!!!!!!!!!!!

Actually it depends on your pace if you are keeping a good 16-19 mph pace you have a higher mets value then jogging 6mph. Obviously beginning you will probably not carry that sort of pace, but it's something to keep in mind.
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Old 10-01-05, 08:19 AM
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Thanks for the help guys . Right now I average 18.5 mph on the road bike and 15 mph on the MTB on the ride I take three times per week. The rear tubular is squished down pretty good while I ride (Continental Giro, 125 psi). The old bike I ride is made of Columbus tubing and I do feel a little flex on fast corners.
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Old 10-01-05, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by EURO
Lets say you are currently riding a 10kg bike. You weigh 113 kilos, plus the bike is 123kg.

If you get an 'ultra-light' bike, at the UCI weight limit of 6.8kg (cost - about $4000), your overall (bike + rider) weight will be (113 + 6.8 = 119.8kg)

The comparison of total weight is therefore as follows.

Old total 123kg (100%)
New total 119.8kg (97.4%)

A total weight reduction for rider and bike of 2.6%, cost $4000. You would't begin to notice the difference.

You are too fat for a light bike. Go on a diet, then get one.

For reference, I'm the same height as you, and 100 pounds lighter. That's (as the press would say) an average cyclist's build.

You are extremely smart i did not understand anything but you are to fat. I give you props.
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Old 10-01-05, 08:42 AM
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250 pounds on a 6'0 frame (even large frame) would be considered a little over weight.

Currently I am hovering around 235 pounds at 6'6", x large frame (body) size, and could be around 195 at min. I ride a 18 pound road bike with no problems at 7k miles, 16/20 spoke wheels also.
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Old 10-01-05, 09:10 AM
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I am 50 years old and weigh 244 at 6'5". I ride a motobecane Legacy that weighes 18.1 lbs as opposed to my old MB Grand Record of 28 years that weighed 26 lbs. The difference in technology is stunning. My new bike holds up really well but the top speed is the same as the crank being a 53 limits that. it is a blast to ride and I am looking to shed pounds too. My frame is a Kinesium frame with carbon seat stays and front fork riding on 700x 25 tires at 120 psi. I works great and I have been on crushed lime stone trails with it as well. Go find the bike of your dreams and then set a goal and time to accomplish your goals by. Above all enjoy.
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Old 10-01-05, 09:46 AM
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Get any bike you want. Just make sure the wheels are strong.
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Old 10-01-05, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by FLBandit
I was a bit worried about that when I bought my Lemond. It's not a particularly light bike, but at 6'2" and 220 I'm not a particularly light person either. The guy at the shop said Lemond and Trek both have no weight limits on their frames.
Of course they don't. It's the wheels that break first.
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Old 10-01-05, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by EURO

You are too fat for a light bike. Go on a diet, then get one.

For reference, I'm the same height as you, and 100 pounds lighter. That's (as the press would say) an average cyclist's build.
What's your problem? How nice of you to reply to Motophoto's post in such a loving manner. Perhaps, as the press would say, you need a lesson in manners.
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Old 10-01-05, 04:42 PM
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saying a frame "has no weight limits" means nothing

it just means they did the math and realized the loss of potential buyers due to published weight limits would be more than the loss incurred by replacing some warranteed frames

usually 175-180lb seems to be the cutoff for lightweight wheels and components

good luck
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Old 10-01-05, 04:55 PM
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Hey man, 6'2", 200 here, down from 280 about two years ago. I'm with zing, buy what you want, buy what you can afford, but most of all have fun and don't overdo it. Some people's idea of fun is riding at 25+. Some people's idea of fun is just getting out and riding and seeing everything. Don't let the beanpoles get you down, chances are, after you lose a few pounds, you'll be able to slam past them on the flats and most of the hills. Having a few extra pounds can be a huge advantage in some instances.(see decending)

BTW...TREK Madone 5.9 here. Started with a TREK 1000 when I was heavy. The only problem I ever had was busted spokes on my rear wheel. Went through two rear wheels in the first two years.
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Old 10-01-05, 07:33 PM
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Yes I like going faster it seems more fun and takes my mind off of the work. I am sure I get as good or better a work out on the MTB in 3 laps than the road bike in 4 but I enjoy the speed and do not feel so cramped. The MTB is just not geared tall enough most of the time I am in the tallest gear and the tires sound like I am peddling a truck at 15mph(hard to hear cars coming).
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Old 10-01-05, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by EURO
Lets say you are currently riding a 10kg bike. You weigh 113 kilos, plus the bike is 123kg.

If you get an 'ultra-light' bike, at the UCI weight limit of 6.8kg (cost - about $4000), your overall (bike + rider) weight will be (113 + 6.8 = 119.8kg)

The comparison of total weight is therefore as follows.

Old total 123kg (100%)
New total 119.8kg (97.4%)

A total weight reduction for rider and bike of 2.6%, cost $4000. You would't begin to notice the difference.

You are too fat for a light bike. Go on a diet, then get one.

For reference, I'm the same height as you, and 100 pounds lighter. That's (as the press would say) an average cyclist's build.
I'm curious why you used kg in your entire post up until the last paragraph where you switched to pounds. Were you just trying to be an a$$ and make some kind of I'm a superior european elitist and you're a fat American point?

Geez, the guy is riding at least.
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