euphoria

I weighed nearly 270 pounds when I graduated high school and put all that excess cash flow from being uninstitutionalized towards the increasingly popular Motobecanes-in-a-box off eBay for a mere $320. A bargain considering the MSRP is $650, right? Nowhere in the product description did it mention the company going out of business and that I was really bidding on a 04 Fuji. Regardless, I dropped 20 pounds over the summer rather effortlessly while steadily developing my legs into writhing sinew, at great consequence.

After the first couple of weeks I managed to average one flat tire per every couple of rides. It got so bad that I didn't wonder if I would get a flat the next ride, but how long it would take. After the first dozen flats in a month and a couple of patch kits that couldn't keep legos together I dropped $60 on a pair of Armadillos, effectively turning my ride into a rolling tank. I didn't mind too much, seeing as how I could finish rides with more muscle being torn up.

And then Shimano decided to dropkick me in the nuts.

The guys at the LBS grew to detest the sight of me and my broken ride at least twice a week. The first time we got familiar with each other was when I realized I didn't know how to put the bike together and paid a mighty $65 for a tune-up. To put things in perspective here, I'm a jobless college student. That was just the beginning, though. I've gone through three crankarms on the left pedal, two sets of brake pads, several wheel trueings which were generously serviced free of charge, handlebar tape, two chains, and a derailleur adjustment, all in the first six months, at an average of 100 miles a week. Even snapped the brake cables when I got cut off by the world's worst monstrosity at the end of a long hill, the sport utility vehicle.

The first real hindrance came when I tried to race an elderly gentleman down a sloped street. At the height of my brash cockiness I hit a patch of gravel at 35+ mph and turned my collarbone into a pleasant X shape. Looking at the X-Ray hurt worse than the first time they set my arm in the sling. Even on three doses of morphine it was by far the worst pain in my life. Six weeks of internet surfing and weight gain ensued. Getting back in the saddle was akin the Great Reawakening, being born again, losing your virginity, etc. My poor bike never was the same. Brakes made horrible screeching noises, handlebar tape was tattered (electrical tape made for a great inconspicuous replacement), and then I couldn't shift to the small chainring.

I tried to take matters into my own hands with a second necessary adjustment of the front derailleur. Equipped with a book with lots of pictures and a phillips head, I loosened one screw too many and sent a crucial spring flying into the great unknown, a.k.a. the bushes next to the driveway. A relatively inexpensive part, but I'll be damned if any shop in the tri-city area carries Sora triples. Not that I could afford it anyway, and I hate bumming off the parents. This is more than enough motivation to secure gainful employment, but here comes the question for the ages.

Do I continue pumping cash into this well-worn Super Mirage complete with bottom-line components or should I save up for something with gusto, i.e. a Trek or Specialized? Will I wear out a new bike just as fast? I'll admit that I'm not the most passive cyclist around. I'm a freakin' giant who attracts attention wherever I go, and there's no greater joy in life than climbing a hill out of the saddle, lungs ready to explode, and then pushing the biggest gear down the other side and seeing how long I can hold out.

Am I setting myself up for disappointment by going with some Ultegra here and there? Should I just buy a MTB and be complacent with my Clydestatus?

P.S. I also enjoy commuting to school and plan on showing up to work in style; sweaty and invigorated.

ovoleg

hahahahahaha, that was hilarious...

ovoleg

This is what riding is all about

All the fansy shmansy Ultegra/Dura-Ace components only keep the poseurs in line. You need to figure out what you love about the sport. Is it the bike or is it the joy you get out of riding? Some of us have nice bikes and we enjoy riding. Most of those people would ride a POS if thats all they could afford.

You have problems, like alot of us...My first bike was a POS and I almost gave up but I was determined after a few days of not riding.

Do you have money to save? Then go ahead and save it and get yourself a bike that you like. Should you change the bike? I don't think so...I think that it should be fine if you keep maintaining it.

Just imagine what kind of a beast you're going to be when you get on a nice bike with the fansy shmansy components. All the training on your Sora equipped bike will pay off.

Keep the pounds off and keep on training

Good luck

PS: I like your commentary, well written

peachthief2

If you are 250, realize that you are probably putting a pretty solid amount of stress on your components, and that crash probably damaged more than your front derailleur. if you go to the LBS and pick up the latest ultegra equipped bike, you'll be happy, because it will shift and ride a hell of a lot better. you might not be happy because it will still get just as mangled in a crash. However, you should not have too much trouble if you end up with solid wheels (kysriums) and a good frame, and if you're really worried about toughness, get a thomson seatpost and stem.

ovoleg

Okay, I totally disagree.

How is Ultegra going to last you that much longer vs Sora? I want a non-half ass explanation.

Ksyriums? I happen to think that my non-aero Ares front wheel will last alot longer than the Ksyriums...

Trust me, people that buy high end equipment always make it sound like it is so much better than the low end stuff. Peach, have you ever ridden a Sora bike? How can you make the assumption that Ultegra will last longer?

If you want good advice, stick with the bike that you have and ride it to death. Get some cheap high spoke, non-aero wheels and ride them.

They aren't too expensive and I happen to think that the stiffness in my 32spoke front wheel is pretty damn good and it holds up.

Get a part-time job and save money. Help your parents out or at least ask them for a loan(if possible).

ovoleg

The Ksyrium Elites are 18/20 spokes...
https://cycleworldbikes.com/site/item...andName%20desc

Nice suggestion...Maybe he should get the SL's?

euphoria

Both. What I really love is not relying on a 2-ton motor cage to move about town. Health benefits come second. What really puts me off is that it ends up costing more than driving, which makes it hard to recommend my love affair to other people. I've tried getting involved in other sports but nothing else quite compares. Racquetball and swimming seem like the only viable alternatives, assuming my gym membership didn't get axed in our switch to Comcast.

All things considered, a $20 part isn't anything to get worked up over. I need to realize that I'm just not mechanically minded and will probably have to pay a dude for major repairs.

euphoria

Holy crap. Definitely not going to spend $550 on a new set of wheels, much less over $100. I'll need new ones not too far down the line, but I'd rather buy a whole new rig than Ksyriums.

tlupfer

build up a fixed gear. fewer things to break and more challenge for those sinewy muscles of yours.

AndrewP

Keep the bike but get a pair of 36 or 32 spoke wheels with deep rims. There are tires with kevlar belts giving puncture resistance that are a lot lighter than Armadillos. Get a floor pump so you can keep the tires at full pressure every day and avoid pinch flats.

euphoria

Are you saying I should just leave the derailleur off and ride in the middle ring? It wouldn't be a half bad idea, and I could still manuever about on the smaller cogs. Interesting...

I actually love my Armadillos. They look awesome and I enjoy the extra challenge. Any extra weight is immediately cancelled by the convenience of not having to carry a pump.

UmneyDurak

Don't listen to people who say you need Ultegra. I have Tiagra/105 on my bike. So far it survived couple of crashes and me using it. Also one thing to keep in mind is that you are commuting to school. So I'm guessing you will be leaving a bike outside. Then you definetly might want something that is not flashy, with 32 spoke solid build wheels. I have 01 (I think before they went to compact frames), Specialized. Since I got it only thing I had to replace was a front chain ring. It was bent curtosy of some driver. Do you have hills in your area? If there are no major hills or they are relatively short I would recommend a single speed bike. Less things that can go wrong, and needs to be adjusted.
Also visit commuting forum, there are lots of people there that will have great recommendations too.

rufvelo

Stick with your current bike...

Fix things as you go along...

Always carry a pump, spare tubes, learn how to replace/fix flats...

When you do trash a rim, get the cheapest 32/36 spoke wide rim with widest (that you bike can take) 28/38mm Kevlar belted tires..

Get a new bike when you have a job/more money and are closer to your target weight..

ovoleg

I wish more people would take advice like this on the forums...

I ride Ultegra, but I won't say that I need it.

I think this is the root of the problems that are developing with new riders. They get pushed into equipment that they definately do not need.

Motophoto

I don't understand why your stuff is breaking so much, maybe you ride harder than me(I ride about 80 miles per week when it is warmer). I am still on a 22 year old Schwinn with Suntour stuff that has tubulars tires and I am having no problems. I plan on staying on the old bike until I can get back down to around 200 from the 250 pounds I am now at. I say keep your old bike until you drop a few more pounds (Oh God I sound like EURO now). That being said if you have the cash to burn buy what ever makes you happy(ahh that sounds more like it).

As far as tires go I have not had a flat yet this year or I should say in the last six months since I dug out the old road bike and got off the MTB. I run 32 spoke Araya rims (two sets). For wheels I am sure you have looked on Ebay for something that would work, you might also check around at some of your local bike shops most have old wheels hanging around they might let go pretty cheap. That is what I have done, got a set of tubular rims in new shape from a local shop for $30 and a set of wheel with Dura Ace hubs on Araya rims off Ebay for $100 I could of got something cheaper that would work but they matched the bike when it was new.

AndrewP

The weight of the tires will affect your accelration a bit but you wont notice it. However you will notice the reduced weight in better handling.

thebankman

Ask the folks at your LBS if any of your parts in any way look damaged, for instance can they see visual signs of damage on wheels, chain, etc. If they believe a part is damaged, check it out for yourself and ask yourself, are they making this problem up to make a sale? If they've worked with you before they're probably not going to scam you as you'll be back again soon anyway (that's the curse of any hobby). I recommend keeping your current bike and, if the tires and components are doing the job, stick with it until a part gives you problems. And definitely don't get Ultegra/Dura-Ace or any other top of the line parts, they're overkill unless you're a pro cyclist. My bike has Shimano's cheapest, bummiest parts and with weekly lubrication and cleaning and a lot of practice I know exactly how the parts will work and can use every bit of the bike. It works for now and when I get a full-time job (I'm like you a broke college student about to graduate) I'm telling myself I'll drop a few thousand bucks and get a top of the line bike.

BeTheChange

So why did you get a road bike? I am a senior in college right now and have had a touring bike for about 2 years now (untill I wrecked it pretty bad and broke the frame). Now i have a surly frame that I'm building up. It seems in the college/commuting situation where cost is an issue a touring rig is much more practical. Unless you are racing a touring bike will be much more durrable and handles heavier loads. I was 236 and now I'm down to 195 and the wheels and parts hold up great. Also I seem to like to wreck and having regular brakes and some bar-end shifters is great because when you wreck and mess up your brake levers your shifting is still fine. If you can find a used touring bike that may do you well. A new touring rig is gonna be around 1000 bucks but you can put racks and fenders or whatever and still ride on the road like a champ.

I'm finially getting a racing bike but I wouldn't have been able to save up for it if I had been driving instead. So it's all cost-benefit. For bigger people these small racing-type bikes just aren't going to have the durrability your looking for. The parts are manufactured so they are as light as possible which can hurt dependability when you are over the weight limit. I really loved my late touring bike and am betting I'll love my new surly since I'm transferring most of the parts. If that is an option a touring bike can be a great all arounder. I even went on group rides with the late touring bike and didn't get dropped too bad unless the racers really wanted to lay it on in the hills.

Just something to consider. Good luck!

tinrobot

Keep your current bike, but get sturdier wheels because you're a big guy. A 32 spoke wheel is a must.

If you keep flatting, armadillos are good, but you could also go to a slightly bigger tire. I run 28cm tires and it really cut down on flats. Also, put Slime in your tires, it'll help with pinhole punctures.

As for components, upgrade when things break, it'll be cheaper. Ultegra is fancy and pretty, but 105 or Tiagra will do just as good and last just as long. Also, if you learn to fix things yourself, you'll save a lot of money on labor.

Ed Holland

"It doesen't get any easier, you just go faster"

Well, I say good for you mate. Stick with it and cycling will repay you many times over.
Learning to do your own work is cost effective, saves time and money and I find it enjoyable.
Upgrades are fun, not necessarily essential, but can spur ones enthusiasm for the sport.

Cheers,

Ed

EURO

Cheap bikes don't hold up to lots of riding. They are designed for weekend twiddlers.

MichaelW

You seem to be heavy, strong and lack the advanced riding skills of an experiend rider. Thats what being a newbie is like. You cannot get away with lightweight bikes or components.
A heavyweight rider with some finesse may be able to ride a 32 spoke wheel but you should go for 36 spokes. You wont notice the weight difference.
Can I suggest that you forget about using the bike for fitness for a few weeks and concentrate on your riding style. Learn to spin the pedals in smooth circles, not jerky up and down movements. Select a lower gear than usual and a higher pedalling cadence. Most experienced riders are pedalling at >80 revs/min.
Look at the road surface and respond to what you see. Dont sit like a sack of potatos in the saddle, raise yourself on your legs when you hit a rough patch. Pick your line to avoid bumps and potholes. Look ahead and think about the exit from one manouvre and how it leads into the entrance of the next one.
Learn to modulate your braking force, feather the brakes, brake in good time using observation.
On one group ride we hit some gravel on a corner at the bottom of a hill. A couple on a tandem, towing their daughter on a tag-a-long recovered from the skid and cornered safely. A newbie on a full sus MTB wiped out.
Your equipment will last longer and you will have more fun if you improve your cycling skills.

Extort

Check the PennySaver and other free classifieds for your area, you might just find a quality replacement for under $100 that your parents may help you purchase.

You will get better, so will your ride!

alanbikehouston

The problem with "E-Bay" road bikes is not the Shimano components. Low-end Shimano parts are heavier than "Pro" level Shimano parts, but they are also built to be stronger and more reliable.

The weakness of discount "E-Bay" bikes is poor workmanship and bargain basement wheels. Most "top" road bike wheels are designed for a 150 pound "Pro" who has a team car behind him with the roof covered with the spare wheels he will need on an almost daily basis. Most cheaper road wheels are flimsy "el cheapo" copies of those flimsy Pro wheels....won't work for a 150 rider, let alone a 250 pound rider.

For around $300, a good bike shop can replace pretend "racing" wheels with wheels designed for "loaded" touring...wide, sturdy rims, and tough, reliable hubs, 36 or 40 super-strong spokes. Add some 32mm touring tires, and you have a reliable ride.

An oddity of "bike economics" is that you can buy a mountain bike from a "name" company, such as Trek, for about the cost of a good set of wheels for a road bike. If a 250 pound guy told me he wanted to buy just ONE bike, and wanted a bike that was affordable and reliable, I'd tell him to get a Trek, Giant, or Specialized mountain bike with a "street" price of around $300 to $400. Such mountain bikes can handle levels of stress that would rapidly destroy an $800 road bike.

I see 1990 to 1995 era Trek mountain bikes in pawn shops and resale shops selling for $75 or so. Some look like Christmas presents that got a ride around the block, and then got hung up in the garage. These bikes are often need no more than a tune-up to be as good as new.