Lube/Grease recommendation
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Lube/Grease recommendation
Just bought my first Roadbike a Cannondale R1000. Looking for some advise on lube to keep it running smooth. What needs lubing.
1. Drivetrain - what brands would you recommend
2. Pedals, general threaded parts what would you recommend.
~ Chani
1. Drivetrain - what brands would you recommend
2. Pedals, general threaded parts what would you recommend.
~ Chani
#3
Tête de Limace
Originally Posted by Cypress
Pedro's Road Rage for everything.
Pedro's syn lube for threads.
Pedro's syn lube for threads.
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for greasing threads, seatposts, etc. It doesn't matter, but for repacking hubs and bearings and such, you should be using good grease, such as Phil Wood.
And I really like tri-flow for my chain.
And I really like tri-flow for my chain.
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All chain lubes are going to do a good job, it's more of a question of how much gunk you'll get in and how quickly, and how often you'll need to reapply.
I'm a ProLink fan. But if you ride in consistenly dry conditions you might consider a dry lube like White Lightening.
I'm a ProLink fan. But if you ride in consistenly dry conditions you might consider a dry lube like White Lightening.
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For hubs, bottom brackets, and headsets I have used Amzoil grease for over 30 years. Feeling guilty for not giving it more attention (after 10 years of heavy use), I pulled the bearings on one of my road bikes only to find they looked like they'd just been done. And one tube (remember, they're intended for cars) will last a lifetime.
For chains I use Rock"n"Roll . With Rock"n"Roll there is no grease build-up on either the chain or jockey wheels. This product was recommended to me by a local bike mechanic and has become a favorite.
For everything else I use Triflow.
For chains I use Rock"n"Roll . With Rock"n"Roll there is no grease build-up on either the chain or jockey wheels. This product was recommended to me by a local bike mechanic and has become a favorite.
For everything else I use Triflow.
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I like the rock"n"roll lube and t-9 for the chain find the t9 is a little better for wet conditions.
As for grease i like Phil Woods.
As for grease i like Phil Woods.
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Originally Posted by gurana
Are there really any dicernable differences in performance btwn different greases? I went to home depot and picked up the first tube labeled 'grease'. I didin't really know there were different types of grease before I went... Seriously. Is there a particular type of grease to avoid?
Avoid Lithium grease and:
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Originally Posted by jimshapiro
For hubs, bottom brackets, and headsets I have used Amzoil grease for over 30 years. Feeling guilty for not giving it more attention (after 10 years of heavy use), I pulled the bearings on one of my road bikes only to find they looked like they'd just been done. And one tube (remember, they're intended for cars) will last a lifetime.
For chains I use Rock"n"Roll . With Rock"n"Roll there is no grease build-up on either the chain or jockey wheels. This product was recommended to me by a local bike mechanic and has become a favorite.
For everything else I use Triflow.
For chains I use Rock"n"Roll . With Rock"n"Roll there is no grease build-up on either the chain or jockey wheels. This product was recommended to me by a local bike mechanic and has become a favorite.
For everything else I use Triflow.
I took a look at "Rock 'n Roll"'s web-site, and thought I'd give them a try - and so, with credit-card in hand, I phoned the number, and the guy who answered told me, in no uncertain terms that he was "…too busy to talk to you about our products - go to the web and read about them!"
Ah, obviously a contender for "Salesman Of The Year" - so I took another look and thought that perhaps there was a bit too much hype and very little else, so I think I'll stick to Tri-Flow, and I'll take my business elsewhere. Anyone else?
- Wil
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Originally Posted by Wil Davis
Interesting -
I took a look at "Rock 'n Roll"'s web-site, and thought I'd give them a try - and so, with credit-card in hand, I phoned the number, and the guy who answered told me, in no uncertain terms that he was "…too busy to talk to you about our products - go to the web and read about them!"
Ah, obviously a contender for "Salesman Of The Year" - so I took another look and thought that perhaps there was a bit too much hype and very little else, so I think I'll stick to Tri-Flow, and I'll take my business elsewhere. Anyone else?
- Wil
I took a look at "Rock 'n Roll"'s web-site, and thought I'd give them a try - and so, with credit-card in hand, I phoned the number, and the guy who answered told me, in no uncertain terms that he was "…too busy to talk to you about our products - go to the web and read about them!"
Ah, obviously a contender for "Salesman Of The Year" - so I took another look and thought that perhaps there was a bit too much hype and very little else, so I think I'll stick to Tri-Flow, and I'll take my business elsewhere. Anyone else?
- Wil
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1) For your chain: Pro-Link. No "black-crud" build-up, actually cleans your chain while you ride. Wipe it down after lubing; you only need lube inside your rollers, not on the outside of the chain.
2) Grease for threads, loose bearings, etc.: Phil Wood grease.
3) For hard-to-get-to places like your shifter/brake levers: Tri-flow or other teflon spray.
Cheers! - RJ
2) Grease for threads, loose bearings, etc.: Phil Wood grease.
3) For hard-to-get-to places like your shifter/brake levers: Tri-flow or other teflon spray.
Cheers! - RJ
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Why avoid lithium grease? Will it damage parts or something?
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Originally Posted by gurana
Are there really any dicernable differences in performance btwn different greases? I went to home depot and picked up the first tube labeled 'grease'. I didin't really know there were different types of grease before I went... Seriously. Is there a particular type of grease to avoid?
George
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Originally Posted by MajikMan
Why avoid lithium grease? Will it damage parts or something?
It corrodes fork bushings. If a grease damages anything on anything, it isn't going on my bike.
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ive been trying out this new grease called red devil. ive been using it on all the bikes ive been working on and i love it. it has a great consistency. its thicker than pedros velolube, but slightly softer than park polylube. i really enjoy it.
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Grease is grease... Phil Wood grease is perhaps the biggest scam in the history of cycling. The fact I can walk to the hardware store next to the bike shop I work at and purchase a tub of identical green grease for $3 vs. Phil Wood's 2oz toothpaste tube for $10 is criminal. 99% of shops out there are going to be using lithium or marine bearing grease for ALL applications. Lithium and marine both work, and they are both far cheaper than the stupid brand name designer greases like Park, Pedros or Phils, which I may add are suspiciously similar to marine bearing grease.
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Originally Posted by seely
Grease is grease... Phil Wood grease is perhaps the biggest scam in the history of cycling. The fact I can walk to the hardware store next to the bike shop I work at and purchase a tub of identical green grease for $3 vs. Phil Wood's 2oz toothpaste tube for $10 is criminal. 99% of shops out there are going to be using lithium or marine bearing grease for ALL applications. Lithium and marine both work, and they are both far cheaper than the stupid brand name designer greases like Park, Pedros or Phils, which I may add are suspiciously similar to marine bearing grease.
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Originally Posted by Arrak
Just bought my first Roadbike a Cannondale R1000. Looking for some advise on lube to keep it running smooth. What needs lubing.
1. Drivetrain - what brands would you recommend
2. Pedals, general threaded parts what would you recommend.
~ Chani
1. Drivetrain - what brands would you recommend
2. Pedals, general threaded parts what would you recommend.
~ Chani
As for the chain, Pedro's works fine.
#20
Tête de Limace
Re: Lithium Grease.
Damn, I think that's the type I ended up buying. Like I said, I simply went to the store and grabbed the first tube that said 'grease'. The only research I did was in the mechanic's forum, and the first thread I saw said something to the fact that 'it doesn't matter', not 'it doesn't matter, as long as it's not lithium'. I only used it to grease the threads of my pedals and then for the threads on my cleats.
Any other opinions on the subject of lithium grease? for or against? Should I take the time to re-do my pedals? Or is it not worth the hassle?
Damn, I think that's the type I ended up buying. Like I said, I simply went to the store and grabbed the first tube that said 'grease'. The only research I did was in the mechanic's forum, and the first thread I saw said something to the fact that 'it doesn't matter', not 'it doesn't matter, as long as it's not lithium'. I only used it to grease the threads of my pedals and then for the threads on my cleats.
Any other opinions on the subject of lithium grease? for or against? Should I take the time to re-do my pedals? Or is it not worth the hassle?
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Originally Posted by Stv
Not trolling here.
What material specifically are your fork bearings made from that grease corrodes them?
If it's "rust" thats because water entered them. Normally Lithiums resist water washout but some will absorb a fair amount of moister. Problem is, the grease never gets worked enough (warm) to evaporate the water off. You need to use a (MARINE) Lithium (polymered/tacky) Complex grease that sheds water readily.
If the bushings are brass and corroded its because a very inexpensive cheap lithium automotive lube that was very high in sulphur content was used. Sulphur is a cheap/inexpensive anti-wear, EP additive that can destroy brass bushings in not time.
Either way...............you gotta invest in better quality grease.
What material specifically are your fork bearings made from that grease corrodes them?
If it's "rust" thats because water entered them. Normally Lithiums resist water washout but some will absorb a fair amount of moister. Problem is, the grease never gets worked enough (warm) to evaporate the water off. You need to use a (MARINE) Lithium (polymered/tacky) Complex grease that sheds water readily.
If the bushings are brass and corroded its because a very inexpensive cheap lithium automotive lube that was very high in sulphur content was used. Sulphur is a cheap/inexpensive anti-wear, EP additive that can destroy brass bushings in not time.
Either way...............you gotta invest in better quality grease.
Bushings, not bearings. I'm refering to the plastic sleeves in suspension forks. I should have specified.
Your pedals are fine as they are. I just don't trust lithium grease due to a messed up manitou that I threw the grease into. It froze the bushings and I had to replace an assload of stuff to get it working again. It says on the package(bushings) to not use the lithium stuff. I found out afterwards.
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#22
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Originally Posted by rjtokyo
1) For your chain: Pro-Link. No "black-crud" build-up, actually cleans your chain while you ride. Wipe it down after lubing; you only need lube inside your rollers, not on the outside of the chain.
2) Grease for threads, loose bearings, etc.: Phil Wood grease.
3) For hard-to-get-to places like your shifter/brake levers: Tri-flow or other teflon spray.
Cheers! - RJ
2) Grease for threads, loose bearings, etc.: Phil Wood grease.
3) For hard-to-get-to places like your shifter/brake levers: Tri-flow or other teflon spray.
Cheers! - RJ
You could probably use prolink for lubing levers, etc, but unfortunately the bottle is not well designed for getting into nooks and crannies, so a light spray lube is probably a better choice for these areas.
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Originally Posted by seely
Grease is grease... Phil Wood grease is perhaps the biggest scam in the history of cycling. The fact I can walk to the hardware store next to the bike shop I work at and purchase a tub of identical green grease for $3 vs. Phil Wood's 2oz toothpaste tube for $10 is criminal. 99% of shops out there are going to be using lithium or marine bearing grease for ALL applications. Lithium and marine both work, and they are both far cheaper than the stupid brand name designer greases like Park, Pedros or Phils, which I may add are suspiciously similar to marine bearing grease.
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Now that everybody has said there piece over their favorite and inferior product I thought I'd take the time to show you a grease that blows anything and everything away. I personally saw this exact demonstration performed at University of Utah while in engineering school and was blown away. I've used Power Up products ever since and continue to amaze people by what this stuff can do. My push here is for the grease. As we all know their oil is just a dust attractant for our bike chains but when you see this demo you will think twice about buying anyone elses grease or oil for that matter. I'd like to challenge all the greases mentioned here and put them up to the same test on this video...guaranteed they will fail.
https://www.powerupmcs.com/video/grease.wmv
https://www.powerupmcs.com/video/grease.wmv
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Originally Posted by Stv
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!
I have been a technical sales representative for precision industrial lubricants with a reputable manufacturer for the past twenty plus years.
This grease demo is a SCAM and is widely (ONLY) used by every Zip-or-Zap-hi-pressure-chemical-sales-company-selling-lubes-outa-the-trunks-of-there-20-year-old-Chrysler-New-Yorkers-by-fat-old-ex-aluminium-siding-salesmen-dressed-in-polyester-pants-and-golf-shirts.
Hint: The water is purposely added at the end to act as a coolant and temporary lubricant to extend the BS demo.
It's pure ***** & BS!
Otherwise they would use an SAE approved ASTM 4-ball weld apparatus.
https://engineers.ihs.com/abstracts/astm-e18.jsp
https://www.koehlerinstrument.com/lit...-Tribology.pdf
https://www.tribotesters.com/four_ball_wear_tester.htm
I have been a technical sales representative for precision industrial lubricants with a reputable manufacturer for the past twenty plus years.
This grease demo is a SCAM and is widely (ONLY) used by every Zip-or-Zap-hi-pressure-chemical-sales-company-selling-lubes-outa-the-trunks-of-there-20-year-old-Chrysler-New-Yorkers-by-fat-old-ex-aluminium-siding-salesmen-dressed-in-polyester-pants-and-golf-shirts.
Hint: The water is purposely added at the end to act as a coolant and temporary lubricant to extend the BS demo.
It's pure ***** & BS!
Otherwise they would use an SAE approved ASTM 4-ball weld apparatus.
https://engineers.ihs.com/abstracts/astm-e18.jsp
https://www.koehlerinstrument.com/lit...-Tribology.pdf
https://www.tribotesters.com/four_ball_wear_tester.htm