iamtim

Ok, so, here is my bike:



I've been riding long enough now that I feel more able to ride in a more aerodynamic position. Flipping that stem, however, would put my bars at such a decline I might as well just reach down and hold on to the forks.

So here's my question -- what angle stem should I be looking at? I'm thinking that a stem running in parallel with the top tube would be good, or maybe a little higher. Is that a zero degree stem? Where do stems start counting from?

Thanks,
Tim.

gapowermike

Dude, go to bed.

gapowermike

Question wise, I would just start riding in the drops more. If that's not enough, then start removing spacers. Baby steps.

Nice bike, I've got an Orange/Blue 1000.

Michael

Thylacine

On face value, I think you should've got the next size up. Do you have long leg / short torso physiology?

Pico

If you want it level then then (head tube angle - stem angle) should be 90 degrees. Typical head tube angles are around 73 degrees so you need around a -17 degree stem to make it level. By the looks of it that would be a huge change in bar height,so you probably should try something a little extreme.

Pico

^^^^ a little less extreme that is. I hate it when I forget words.

iamtim

I used to, back in the day. Now that I've grown into my body, I'm just a big guy: somewhere around 6'2" in the high 230s. (Click here for supporting picture.) The bike fits me fine, though -- I have no fit problems.

When I started cycling again I was near 270 and any sort of an aero position was a challenge. Now that I've dropped some pounds I ride in the drops more and more frequently, although I still prefer bars and hoods. So I figure that if I drop the stem angle a bit, it will provide me a generally more aero position without having to be in the drops all the time -- and when I do go into the drops, it will be aero even more so.

iamtim

I was thinking that myself. I've been seeing lots of stems in the +/- six to eight degree range, that might be what I shoot for. That way it'll have a bit of rise, but not what I've got now.

Thanks.

jimbud

As said above a stem that would be parallel with the bike's head tube would be a 90 degree stem. You can check ebay for a $10.00 or $20.00 stem in the lenght you want. If the new stem configuration does not work simply resell the stem on ebay. This is my 2 cents worth but I'd try a 84 degree 120mm lenght stem.

roadfix

If you want to go slightly lower, I would be looking at either a 90 degree or a +/-5 degree stem. When mounted, these stems will still have a slight 'rise' but a lot less radical than you have it now...

SilentShifter

I have a specialized adjustable angle stem. You can adjust the angle from -6 to +16 degrees. If you know the exact length of stem you need, I would suggest getting this stem.

This will allow you to try different angles to determine which you like best without having to purchase many 'cheap' stems. Also, you can gradually decrease the rise which will allow you to get stronger at each level before progressing too quickly. It may hurt or feel awkward moving from one angle to another too fast, especially if they are radically different.

I have the above said stem and I really like it. It is quite stiff and I am currently finding which rise I like. Right now I have it at 10 and may lower it to around 8. But again, the great thing is, I can change it anytime I want.

marqueemoon

I would try flipping your current stem over first and see how you like that before considering a new stem.

cuda2k

What size/rise stem is on there now?

Bob S.

I am with Michael on this one. My suggestion is to pull spacers under the stem, lower the stem & put the spacers back on top of the stem. Don't cut the fork. Just, alter the position of the spacers. Like Mike says, baby steps. Lower until you find the ride position you are comfortable with. Once there, measure & purchase a new stem to fit that position as best you can & make new adjustments accordingly.

Some may say it is uncool to have spacers on top of the stem. Who cares? It is your money your saving, not theirs. Bob

merlinextraligh

Actually, I've noticed a lot of the local pro's and sponsored riders will ride with spacers above their stem. The reason being is at some point they'll sell the bike when they get the next one from the new sponsor, and it's easier to sell and fit someone else if the steerer hasn't been cut. So if it's ok for pro riders, it shouldn't be uncool.

WD_40

I'll second the spacer removal. That's what I did with my Trek 1200. I've started using my 1200 for crits, since I don't want to sacrafice my Kestrel to Cat 5 pileups. I took all the spacers out and put them on top of the stem, which gave me an acceptable seat/bar drop... cheap too!

Retro Grouch 

Good question! Actually, there's quite a bit of art involved in selecting a stem. You'll really love it if you get the right one, absolutely hate it if you don't.

1. Measure the distance from your seat top and handlebar tops to the floor. Save those numbers so you have a baseline to work from. One inch is a lot of handlebar adjustment. I'd be cautions about doing more than that at one time. Don't buy a $100.00 stem until you're sure of the length and angle that you want.

2. Most people, as they lower their handlebars, tend to like them farther from the saddle. If you keep your stem length constant, that'll happen by itself due to the change in angle. Changing the angle changes the reach, changing the length changes the height.

3. There are two different ways to measure stem angles. Some companies directly measure the included angle of the steerer tube and stem arm. A stem that's parallel with the ground would be about 83 degrees. Others start at would be 90 degrees and call that zero. A stem that's parallel with the ground would be minus 17 degrees.

4. After you lower your handlebars you'll find that your shift and brake cables are flopping all over the place. You'll have to shorten the cable housings and readjust everything. Isn't working on bikes fun!

SDRider

Flipping that stem would put the handlebars below the top of the steerer tube. I'd go with a +/- 6 degree stem and start out with it flipped up. That will drop your bar at least a couple cm from where it's at now.

marqueemoon

I'm not suggesting that flipping it is going to give the perfect position, but it will offer some perspective. The stem he has is already paid for. Why spend extra money to experiment?

Mariner Fan

Hey iamtim,
SDRider is right. It looks like you have a 17 degree stem. I had one of those on my Lemond and I changed it to a 10 degree Thompson. Changes should be made in small increments. Small changes make a big difference on how your bike feels.

cmcenroe

It really looks like if you were to flip that stem it would be parallel with the top tube.

ViperZ

Most stem angles are base don your head tube angle, so if your Head tube angle is 74 degrees, you would need a -16 degree stem angle to make it level to the ground or top tube in your case.

Most stems these days are typically +/-5 to +/- 10 degrees, so this would place the stem at a slight rise in relation to the ground or your top tube if used in the - (minus) position.

Here is a site that may help explain it

https://www.bikefitkit.com/fit_kit/support_stem.html

CardiacKid

I had the same stem on my Trek. When you flip it it should come out about horizontal.

cyclezen

nice bike
love that orange and the understated logoing, bright (not black) wheels
nice