Before & After pic's
Ritchey fork installed: 302g cut... not too bad.
Last edited by mattheis; 07-17-14 at 08:31 AM.
why does the decal say boardman? I didn't know Boardman bikes made Ti.
coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
No @coasting, you should stay 100% as you are right now, don't change a thing....quote Heathpack
Buy a can of spray rust inhibitor like JP Weigle's Frame Saver, or RustCheck, or Boeshield T-9, and spray it down the seat tube, head tube, and into any small holes you see in the stays and forks...but while that is the best way I did it an easier way and never used the spray stuff and never had rust issues, but combine both of these things and the bike will outlast your grandchildrens lives!! The simplest things to do is to put a light coat of grease on the seat post and the inside of the seat tube and after reinserting the post wipe off any ooze. Do the same thing with the stem. Next buy a Lizard Skin headset seal protector, it wraps around the lower headset keeping muck out of the headset. Do not use WD40 to spray into the frame, it will not work at preventing rust, it will displace water so if you get water in the frame you can spray the frame with WD40 once you drained it out, wait a couple of days and then spray the rust saver products I mentioned.
Anytime you find a scratch that goes to bare metal quickly touch it up with paint, usually fingernail polish or Testors model paint will have a color that matches.
Wax your bike with a good automotive wax like Mequiar's Ultimate Liquid Polish or NXT Generation Tech liquid, or Mothers Reflection or California Gold Synwax Liquid, either of those two brands are the best just use whatever you prefer, I prefer Mequiar's Ultimate for dark colors especially black. Anyway just wax the bike gently, no need to scrub hard, and apply twice a year. If you use any other wax then mentioned you'll need to pay real close attention to make sure the wax contains NO cleaning or compound agents that are design to remove swirl marks or restore faded color etc because those remove a thin layer of paint and constant use of that sort of product will ruin a bicycles paint job and destroy decals, so always use non-abrasive.
Last edited by rekmeyata; 07-17-14 at 11:26 PM.
Airborne Zeppelin that previous owner had a bunch of tri-gear on. I've since replaced pretty much everything outside of the frameset. In the process of looking for a better fitting titanium seatpost and I have brifters and white cabling that I am in the process of installing.
Been wanting to build a Ti road bike for years. I'm interested in comfortable rides, not weight or stiffness and want a bike that I can keep forever. Just picked up a used Guru Praemio frame on Ebay and transferred all of my components from my previous ride. Test drive yesterday was fantastic. Very smooth.
Here's my new Lynskey as it stood when I bought it (except the bar tape). Has become a project bike for me. Put a fizik arione on it and have new wheels, handlebar, stem, crankset and bottom bracket on the way.
Still on my '99 Merlin standard...rides as good as the day it came out of their MA shop...
Here's my 2013 Lynskey Helix. I purchased the frame and fork from eBay for a steal.
Shimano 105 everything from eBay with a coupon.
3t arx stem
Easton ec90sl fork
Easton ec90 seat post
Easton ea 50 bars
Easton ea 90ltd wheelset off of my old bike.
Ultegra cassette off of my old bike.
Still playing with a few saddles and such.
This bike feels perfect when riding.
Comotion Speedster, Caad 9, Salsa Vaya, Lynskey R230