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  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    ...or least have the greater potential towards being faster for road cycling: the Trek SU200, or the Trek 7.3 FX. I am deadlocked between these two bikes, although I am partial towards the SU200 since it has disc brakes (which are important to me for year-round commuting) and since it has 26" wheels, which I am accustomed to and believe would have lower rotational weight (refer to specs). Although I would be using these bikes predominantly for daily commuting (which is why I am not considering an actual road bike), the deciding factor for me is how each bike would perform over the other when subjected to long-distance rides during the weekends. Which would you prefer in this respect? Thanks

    SU200 Complete Specifications
    Frameset
    Sizes 13, 16, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5"
    Frame Alpha SL Aluminum
    Fork Alloy w/lowrider mounts, straight blades

    Wheels
    Wheels Shimano M495 disc hubs; Bontrager Ranger disc rims
    Tires Bontrager Satellite Plus, 26x1.5"

    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano EF50, 8 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano C102
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
    Crank SR XCC-100 48/38/28 w/chainguard
    Cassette SRAM PG830 11-30, 8 speed
    Pedals Alloy platform w/alloy cage

    Components
    Saddle Bontrager Race Lux Basic
    Seat Post Bontrager Sport
    Handlebars Bontrager
    Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
    Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
    Brakeset Shimano M465, mechanical disc w/Shimano EF50 levers


    7.3 FX Complete Specifications
    Frameset
    Sizes 15, 17.5, 20, 22.5, 25"; Women's 15, 17"
    Frame Alpha SL Aluminum
    Fork Cro-Moly w/lowrider mounts, straight blades

    Wheels
    Wheels Alloy front, Shimano Deore rear hub; Bontrager Camino rims
    Tires Bontrager Invert Hardcase, 700x35c

    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano Alivio, 8 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano C102
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
    Crank Shimano T303 48/38/28 w/chainguard
    Cassette SRAM PG830 11-32, 8 speed
    Pedals Alloy platform w/alloy cage

    Components
    Saddle Bontrager Sport (women's: Bontrager Select FIT)
    Seat Post Bontrager Sport
    Handlebars Bontrager Crowbar Sport
    Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
    Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
    Brakeset Avid SD-3 w/Tektro alloy levers, Kraton inserts
    Last edited by anonymouse99; 03-24-06 at 03:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Faith-Vigilance-Service Patriot's Avatar
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    They both look pretty comparable as far as frames and components go. ARe tehse flat bar road bikes? Hard to tell.

    I think which ever one is faster depends on how strong your legs feel that day.
    President, OCP
    --"Will you have some tea... at the theatre with me?"--

  3. #3
    Orbea Crayola Rider
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    What color are they? We all know that color plays into this conversation alot.

    mscycler

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patriot
    ARe tehse flat bar road bikes?
    Yes, although the FX is categorized under Bike Path --> Fitness and the SU is categorized under Urban. The SU has the same geometry as their hardtail mountain bikes.


    Quote Originally Posted by mscycler
    What color are they? We all know that color plays into this conversation alot.

    mscycler
    I think they both come in gorgeous colors. Attached are pics from Trek's website.

    Note: although the 7.3 FX pictured has disc brakes, the one I'd get does not have disc brakes.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    cmh
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    Are you going to be riding them offroad on singletrack? If the answer is "No" or "Not Much", I would suggest looking into a cross bike. A cross bike will be faster than either of these on the road, but still plenty durable for commuting.

  6. #6
    Orbea Crayola Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarcia2
    Yes, although the FX is categorized under Bike Path --> Fitness and the SU is categorized under Urban. The SU has the same geometry as their hardtail mountain bikes.




    I think they both come in gorgeous colors. Attached are pics from Trek's website.

    Note: although the 7.3 FX pictured has disc brakes, the one I'd get does not have disc brakes.
    Dude, I was just kiddin about the color thing...that has been a topic of discussion around here though. However, the 7/3FX does have what appears to be a pretty sweet bell on the bars.

    In all seriousness, and more out of curiosity, why not consider a road bike? Just wondering?

    mscycler

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmh
    Are you going to be riding them offroad on singletrack? If the answer is "No" or "Not Much", I would suggest looking into a cross bike. A cross bike will be faster than either of these on the road, but still plenty durable for commuting.
    The answer is indeed not much. Any suggestions on a cross specific bike?


    Quote Originally Posted by mscycler
    Dude, I was just kiddin about the color thing...
    I figured, but went ahead and answered it seriously just to post pics.


    Quote Originally Posted by mscycler
    why not consider a road bike?
    I suppose I should, and I keep ariving at that same question myself. Indeed, my advisor who is a big time roadie, insists on road bikes only and was quite disappointed, I think, on my last bike purchase, a Raleigh M50 mountain bike. I am forced mainly to consider said low-end bikes for financial reasons, and in a perpetual cycle, since I have always ridden these sort of bikes, for said reason, I am more accustomed to them.
    Last edited by anonymouse99; 03-24-06 at 03:56 PM.

  8. #8
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    I know the answer to this one! Whichever bike has the faster rider. Seriously, all this equipment and stuff makes less than 0.001% of a difference. I won races on an old, heavy Centurion with downtube shifters then lost plenty more on a Carbon bike with Ultegra STI and tons of titanium and aluminum (seriously, a magnet wouldn't stick to ANYTHING except the spokes). There are no fastest bikes, just fastest riders.

  9. #9
    In beaurocratic limbo urbanknight's Avatar
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    On another note, I belong to a car forum as well and would have never expected to see this kind of thread here. They're terrible flame fests with cars, and I'm sure that's the best that become of a bike one as well.

  10. #10
    Cat None SDRider's Avatar
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    Why are you discounting a road bike specifically? I ride a road bike to work once or twice every week. It's much faster than my MTB.

  11. #11
    Ride, baby...RIDE! High Cadence's Avatar
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    The faster bike would, in theory, be the one that weighs the least amount, and has the lightest wheels (reduced rotating mass).

    Ultimately the ONLY answer to your original question is - how fast are YOU?

  12. #12
    cab horn
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    The faster bike would, in theory, be the one that weighs the least amount, and has the lightest wheels (reduced rotating mass).
    Wrong.
    And Wrong.

    Only applies in
    1) criteriums
    2) uphill time trials

    Quite irrelevant in day to day riding.
    Rotating mass is overhyped. You are also forgetting aerodynamics. Also irrelevant for day to day riding.

  13. #13
    Ride, baby...RIDE! High Cadence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator
    Wrong.
    And Wrong.

    Only applies in
    1) criteriums
    2) uphill time trials

    Quite irrelevant in day to day riding.
    Rotating mass is overhyped. You are also forgetting aerodynamics. Also irrelevant for day to day riding.
    Wrong...and wrong?

    OK so one bike weighs in at 40 pounds, the other is 20. One has rotating mass of 40 pounds, the other is 20 (just numbers I am plugging in).

    And you say there would be no difference?

    Wrong.

  14. #14
    Up and comer pelotonracer's Avatar
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    Obviously, all other things being equal, you'll take a lighter bike. Though the speed difference may be negligible unless you're sprinting or climbing a lot, a lighter bike feels more agile under your feet (at least that's my opinion).

    Sure, weight may not matter much for day to day riding, but what really does? Reliability? That's all I can think of, and that's a wash between most bikes.

    Test ride them, see which one makes you feel like you're going faster, and if you still can't decide, go for the lighter one.

  15. #15
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by High Cadence
    The faster bike would, in theory, be the one that weighs the least amount, and has the lightest wheels (reduced rotating mass).
    Quote Originally Posted by pelotonracer
    Obviously, all other things being equal, you'll take a lighter bike. Though the speed difference may be negligible unless you're sprinting or climbing a lot, a lighter bike feels more agile under your feet (at least that's my opinion).
    I agree that the faster bike would be the lighter one, especially the one that’s lighter in the wheels, although I won’t be able to determine this definitively until Tuesday. I have a feeling though that the 26" wheels will be lighter, but I only basing this on an assumption that the double walled rims and 1.5" tires on each are just about pound for pound, and the one with the smaller diameter is going to win out over the one with the larger diameter in terms of weight. I totally see where your typical 700c wheel on a road bike would be lighter, but there we're dealing with lighter, thinner everything. Not the case here. Indeed, I just weighed my wife's 7300FX (prior year model equivalent to 7.3FX) and it weighs 31.5 pounds with a Bell child seat attached and based on a weight measurement I received from a different Trek dealer who had a SU200 in stock, that bike weighs 29 pounds. So, overall weight may be just about the same between the two.


    Quote Originally Posted by High Cadence
    Ultimately the ONLY answer to your original question is - how fast are YOU?
    Pretty darn fast on a heavy-arse mountain bike (Raleigh M-50) with slicks. I must admit I find myself passing roadies from time to time, and when I go on long distance rides with with my wife who has a theoretically faster bike, she is left in the dust.

  16. #16
    . botto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarcia2
    when I go on long distance rides with with my wife who has a theoretically faster bike, she is left in the dust.
    wow. you must be very, very, very fast.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by botto
    wow. you must be very, very, very fast.
    Faster than a speeding bullet.

    Now, in all honesty I bet the only times I have passed roadies were under unusual circumstances for them, and my wife only rides once in a blue moon whereas I commute everyday by bike, so I would inherently have a faster motor. I have ridden her 7300FX, and I actually feel quite sluggish on it and I haven't a good idea as to why. It is one frame size too small for me, and of course the geometry is different than what I'm used to, but I wouldn't think that would matter as much. That's part of the reason why I think the larger diameter wheels might be heavier.


    Quote Originally Posted by urbanknight
    I know the answer to this one! Whichever bike has the faster rider. Seriously, all this equipment and stuff makes less than 0.001% of a difference. I won races on an old, heavy Centurion with downtube shifters then lost plenty more on a Carbon bike with Ultegra STI and tons of titanium and aluminum (seriously, a magnet wouldn't stick to ANYTHING except the spokes). There are no fastest bikes, just fastest riders.
    All in all, I think this is the wisest advice, yet.
    Last edited by anonymouse99; 03-25-06 at 03:24 AM.

  18. #18
    <>< SoonerBent's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by operator
    Wrong.
    And Wrong.

    Only applies in
    1) criteriums
    2) uphill time trials

    Quite irrelevant in day to day riding.
    Rotating mass is overhyped. You are also forgetting aerodynamics. Also irrelevant for day to day riding.
    No. It applies anytime you take off from a stop. Something you do a lot in town. The only time weight doesn't matter is at a steady speed on a flat road.

    SB

  19. #19
    Up and comer pelotonracer's Avatar
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    An interesting fact about climbing weight:

    According to http://zipp.com/tech/zseries.shtml,

    The upgrade from Zipp's normal steel bearings to their Si3N4 (Silicon Nitride) bearings in their Z-Series is equal to about 1 watt of energy savings. On an 8% grade, the friction savings are equal to a 340g static weight reduction.

    So, by shaving 3/4 of pound off your bike, you save 1 watt on a pretty steep hill. Maybe this number is meaningful to some- but in many cases, a small weight reduction is meaningless.

    Unless you're going from a 35 lb MTB to a 17 lb roadie.

  20. #20
    Senior Member AnthonyG's Avatar
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    If you realy want a faster bike and you don't want to go to a traditional roadie because of expense you realy should try some flatbar roadbikes instead. Those dual action brake/shifters are realy expensive so road bikes without them are quite a bit cheaper. Flatbar roadbikes will be considerably lighter in overal weight, use narrower, lighter wheels/tires and quite importantly they won't have their forks jacked up as the two bikes you posted do and this will give the flatbar roadie a significant aerodynamic advantage which is important for speed. Giant has a whole range of them at many price points as do other makers.

    Regards, Anthony

  21. #21
    Senior Member CPcyclist's Avatar
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    I say go for a "Full" roadie as your second bike even if it means you save for a few more months as you already have a MtB you can ride for not and when the weather gets bad for commuting.

  22. #22
    I-M-D bell curve of bikn'
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    Quote Originally Posted by tgarcia2
    ...or least have the greater potential towards being faster for road cycling: the Trek SU200, or the Trek 7.3 FX. I am deadlocked between these two bikes, although I am partial towards the SU200 since it has disc brakes (which are important to me for year-round commuting) and since it has 26" wheels, which I am accustomed to and believe would have lower rotational weight (refer to specs). Although I would be using these bikes predominantly for daily commuting (which is why I am not considering an actual road bike), the deciding factor for me is how each bike would perform over the other when subjected to long-distance rides during the weekends. Which would you prefer in this respect? Thanks

    SU200 Complete Specifications
    Frameset
    Sizes 13, 16, 18, 19.5, 21, 22.5"
    Frame Alpha SL Aluminum
    Fork Alloy w/lowrider mounts, straight blades

    Wheels
    Wheels Shimano M495 disc hubs; Bontrager Ranger disc rims
    Tires Bontrager Satellite Plus, 26x1.5"

    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano EF50, 8 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano C102
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Alivio
    Crank SR XCC-100 48/38/28 w/chainguard
    Cassette SRAM PG830 11-30, 8 speed
    Pedals Alloy platform w/alloy cage

    Components
    Saddle Bontrager Race Lux Basic
    Seat Post Bontrager Sport
    Handlebars Bontrager
    Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
    Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
    Brakeset Shimano M465, mechanical disc w/Shimano EF50 levers


    7.3 FX Complete Specifications
    Frameset
    Sizes 15, 17.5, 20, 22.5, 25"; Women's 15, 17"
    Frame Alpha SL Aluminum
    Fork Cro-Moly w/lowrider mounts, straight blades

    Wheels
    Wheels Alloy front, Shimano Deore rear hub; Bontrager Camino rims
    Tires Bontrager Invert Hardcase, 700x35c

    Drivetrain
    Shifters Shimano Alivio, 8 speed
    Front Derailleur Shimano C102
    Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore
    Crank Shimano T303 48/38/28 w/chainguard
    Cassette SRAM PG830 11-32, 8 speed
    Pedals Alloy platform w/alloy cage

    Components
    Saddle Bontrager Sport (women's: Bontrager Select FIT)
    Seat Post Bontrager Sport
    Handlebars Bontrager Crowbar Sport
    Stem Bontrager Sport, 10 degree
    Headset Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed
    Brakeset Avid SD-3 w/Tektro alloy levers, Kraton inserts
    Your bike is only as fast as strong as your legs and lungs are! That make sense? Hope so because that is way it goes. In other words it is like golf, cheap $100 clubs played by Tiger, will still beat you miserably with you playing with a custom $2000 set. Cheap K-Mart road bike ridden by Armstrong............you riding his bike, you still lose!

    That's the way I look at it, seriously, I have ridden with guys that are about 40 pounds heavier than me and they smoke me. They are conditioned!
    Ego Campana Inflectum of Circuitous

  23. #23
    Senior Member curt in denver's Avatar
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    Throw out both choices and get a cross bike. It will save you money in the long run because you wont be happy using either of those as a road bike.
    "People who speak in metaphors should shampoo my crotch"
    -Jack Nicholson

  24. #24
    Prefers Cicero cooker's Avatar
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    For me as a commuter I need the ability to mount fenders and a rear rack. There's always a way, but if the bike has the mounts and clearance it makes it easier.

    In theory the 700c wheel with a larger rotating weight is a tiny bit slower to accelerate but holds its speed better when you ease up, so it makes no speed difference overall. The tires on that one are marginally skinnier which means a tiny bit less rolling resistance and I don't know how air resistance would be affected by the slightly taller, slightly skinnier front profile. In other words the wheel difference is small and the speed difference is not intuitively easy to judge.

  25. #25
    Dirt-riding heretic DrPete's Avatar
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    Yeah, I think the answer is that neither will be as fast as a good road or cross bike. If you're wondering which of these is the faster bike you're probably looking at the wrong kind of bike entirely. Just a thought.

    DrPete

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