alreadyblue

Okay, so I have a realatively new road bike. I'm just returning to cycling after several years of absence. I've stayed in decent shape over the years, but I am finding that I am really not using the "larger" gears. I've been averaging 19 MPH on the flats, but I really don't use my "big" ring that much. I guess I spin at a higher cadence ( I really should have bought a computer with the cadence function).

Anyway, I'm going to be doing a century ride in June that will involve a decent amount of climbing. I'm a little concerned that I'm going to being in trouble when I get to the BIG hills I've got to climb. I have a full Ultegra 10 spd set up with 52/39 on the front and 11/23 on the rear cassette. Should I switch the rear cassette to something that will make hill climbing easier? Or would getting a compact crankset be a better choice? I kind of like the Hollowtech 2 crankset with the integrated bottom bracket, though. Hmmm...

UmneyDurak

There is just no correct answer to this question with informatin you have given. If you really want to know if you need compact find 50 mile ride with a lot of 1k+ climbing, see how you feel at the end.

alreadyblue

Understood, but it's going to be difficult to find a 50 mile ride in the NYC area with the type of "hills" they have out west. Unless anyone can suggest one around here? Thanks though. Maybe I should just chew the fat with the guys at my LBS.

bjkeen

I'd think about getting a different cassette - cheaper to do than getting new cranks, easy to put on, and you can alwasy swap back the old one when it's time. If you're not using the 52x11 or 52x12 gear very much - and lots of folks don't - there are 13-25 and 12-27 cassettes out there. If it was me I'd go for the 12-27 I think.

The strategy I understand for working hills on a century is to spend a little more energy climbing and recover some on the downslopes. You can do pretty good just by zizzing up the hills in a small gear.

Kirkdig

Are you looking for a short term/cheaper solution? Putting an Ultegra 10 speed 12-27 cassette would give you a couple extra gears, be cheaper than a new crank and be an easy install. Either way you go (34/23 or 39/27) you will achieve similar gear inches while climbing. I live in an area with a bunch of steeps close and have become a fan of compact cranks, but I must admit that I want one more gear on the decents. I haven't gotten around to buying a cassette with an 11 yet.

dmw010

Unless your century involves climbing actual mountains, you would probably see a significant improvement from a 12-25 or 12-27 cassette. I'd try that first before investing in a compact crankset. I've enjoyed riding a 9-speed 12-27 around New England for a couple of years. I'm putting on a compact crankset (50/34) for a weeklong trip riding big mountains in Italy; I'll have to see whether the 12-27 is too low with the compact crankset.

GuitarWizard

Too low? I just did a 23 mile ride today in my area here in CT with over 1,200 vertical feet of climbing (over 800 of that in the last 10 miles), and have a 50/34 compact w/ 12-25 cassette. Max grade was 13%, average was 6%..... a handful of ascents hit double digits at one point or another. I was wishing I had my 12-27 on a few times, which is sitting in my basement. I have over 1,000 miles in for the year already, and it really kicked my ass today.

For those of you familiar with the area, Lebanon CT is really ****in' hilly.

Snicklefritz

I know some hilly routes in the lower Westchester/Connecticut area - specifically between Ridgefield and the Cross River area.

I agree on the cassette thing. Get the 12x27 casette and see how that works out. Make a note of what cadence you can spin at on climbs that are a few miles in length (or at least 1 mile). My setup works pretty well for most of the stuff I do. It would be nicer to have lower gears for 12-15% grades, but I don't encounter those that often and when I do, they're short. If I had to do very long extended climbs, i.e the equivalent of CAT1 climbs, then I'd probably get lower gears. I might not do it with a compact though. One of my friends took her DA setup and put an XTR rear der. and cassette in the back. I rode the bike and lover the gearing on it for stuff like Death Ride and anything with 10k+ of climbing.

mscycler

I'll ask a question along the same lines...

I am going to Tahoe in June to ride AMBBR (please donate...see sig line ). Anyway, here in MS, there aren't hills to "train" on. So:

1) What could I do differently with bike setup to help out
2) What would be a good way to practice climbing without any hills available

Thanks,
mscycler

GuitarWizard

You should check out either northwestern or northeastern CT sometime.....

I soooooo can't wait to lose the last 15-20 pounds.

rufvelo

To answer your Q real quick, cassette swap is the obvious answer.

With some riding experience and reasonable fitness, for recreational riders, no one needs a triple or compact. Sure, some racers may use compacts. As a beginner, while a triple is appealing on paper, you're better off avoiding those big hills.

On the other hand...

If you're used to centuries then you alone can and should decide on proper gearing for this ride.

If you haven't done a century before, and if a 39x23 is not low enough for the 'big hill' , chances are you won't complete the century, pick a different route for your first century, preferably a loop with no hills.

Al1943

Sorry but I can't agree with that statment at all. I believe the difference in a 39/23 and a 39/27 could make the difference whether or not a person could finish a century. I may fall into that category.

ggg300

12-27 cog set should do it if your fit.

You can still trian for hills on the flat....you just need extended time on a grind-em gear or find some head wind. The point is not to coast as you can't on the hill. IMHO if you can push 19 mph for over 20-30 miles or so solo and stay below your max hrt you should be ok with a new cog set.

Snicklefritz

Chris Carmichael's "Climbing" DVD is a great way to practice things that will help you on the hills. Here's a brief rundown of what you'd do on the trainer:

2x5' muscle tension interval. 50-55rpm, 5' rest
1x10' at climbing lactate threshold. this is usually a few bpm above LT. 80+ rpm, 5' rest
1x10' at climbing LT, 1' at 65 rpm, 1' at 80+ rpm. Alternate until you've filled up 10'.

He has the riders raise the front wheel about 1 foot off the ground. It helps simulate the climbing position where you are using more muscles than on the flat (where it's mostly quads).

This workout should feel hard. The first time I did the video, I wanted to get off the bike. it sucked. second time it was a bit easier. Then after 3-4 times it came doable. Not easy, but I could do it and not feel like doodoo afterwards.

krazyderek

12-27

merlinextraligh

whether adding the 12-27 is low enough depends on your fitness, the terrain and your riding style. Find a hill that's at least as steep as the steepest hill on the ride you're outfitting the bike for. Ride up it. If you can maintain a comfortable cadence in the range you like to spin, at an effort you can or are willing to maintain for the length of the climbs on your ride you have a low enough gear, if not you don't. Starting with the cassette is the cheapest and easiest, So I'd get teh 12-27 and try it out. If that's not enough you can get just a little lower by putting a 38 inner ring on your existing crank, and if that still doesn't get it, go compact. (And you can go with Shimano's ne compact which gives you the things you like about your current ultegra crank)

redraiderpt

I have done America's Most Beautiful ride in Tahoe with a 12-27, and I don't have the avg speed you do.

rufvelo

My advice shouldn't be that hard to comprehend.

If 'alreadyblue' hasn't done a century before (and I could have missed this)....

Basic advice always is - don't include the hardest hill/course you can find to add to your woes - a first century is hard enough (if you've done a few, I'm sure you'd know), and the objective is not to make it over one particularly tough hill! When do you want to finish, in nine hours? Forget about speed, how many folks can just stay on the bike that long?

You can always increase the challenge later, by adding big hills after a couple dozen hundred milers!

Al1943

Ok, I understand your logic. I always think of a "Century" as an organized ride where adding or leaving out a "big hill" is not an option. My first century was fairly flat but had a pretty good hill one mile from the finish. If my cassette had been a 12-23 I would have done some walking, which I refuse to do. I've done several other centuries where a 12-23 would have been a problem for me. I would not count the ride as a "century" if I had to walk.

Al

Jakey

Unless you are racing... that 11 tooth is pretty much useless. Get a 12-25 or 27. No wonder you don't use the big ring...

rufvelo

Absolutely! (just look at the brand new 53 ring and 11 cog on so many used bikes)

I'm remain an 8-speed oldie switching from 12-21 to 12-26 as needed!

mscycler

I rode a good, hard 35 mile loop on Sunday. My goal was to use the big ring only (alternating on the cassette), and not dip below 12 mph anywhere. I finished at 33 miles, 1hr, 56 min, 167 avg HR, 17 mph avg, and 74 RPM average.

Is/would riding in the big ring exclusively be a benefit for "play-like" training for hills?

Oh, and PS...I know this is a stupid question, but is it readily identifiable on the cassette as to what you have? I don't think I have a 12-27, probably an 11-? or so. I don't really know.

Thanks,
mscycler

Al1943

You can count the teeth. If the first cog is a 12 it has 12 teeth. If the largest cog is a 27 it has 27 teeth. Most cogs will have a number stamped into them but sometimes the number is hidden.

Al

mscycler

At the risk of sounding lazy, I just couldn't count the teeth on the back. I know I have a 12 something, but was too lazy to take the wheel off and really concentrate on counting. However, I did have a few beers the one time I tried counting them, that could have been a factor, no?

mscycler

rufvelo

..you probably just went around and around and around...