FlyGTI

Gang, I've finally resolved myself to getting back in shape. I stepped on the scale at the doc's office this week and it read 380 lbs. I'm 6'6" tall, but still, that's way too heavy, and diabetes runs in the family. I've wanted to get back into cycling to regain some health, but being 20 lbs. away from 400 has fast-tracked the idea.

So, I took my old bike (a Trek 7000 SHX...1995, I believe) to my LBS and after they stopped laughing at me, they pointed out that I'll probably spend nearly $300 overhauling it to be a mountain bike with fat road tires that'll hold my weight. At that point, I'm starting to wonder if I'm miles (and dollars) ahead if I put that money towards a new/closeout '04/'05 road bike. In a perfect world, I'd like to spend less than $800 for a road bike. I'm looking for reliability moreso than uber-cool parts, and lightweight this and that. At 380 lbs., one pound of difference in the weight of a bike doesn't mean a whole lot...

The problem is that 380 number. What should I be looking for that's going to be strong enough to hold me and that I can ride for the next few years as I work back down from where I am right now? If you can provide some specific models that may work better than others, or things that I should be looking out for, please do.

Don't know which way to turn, folks, and I'm anxious to start doing something about my situation.

Any advice?

Kid-Cycle

FlyGTI - Welcome to the forum and back to cycling! I'm no expert on bikes for your weight but I would imagine a steel frame hybrid with mid range components should do the trick. You will probably need 32 to 36 spoked wheels. This setup should allow you to run a wider tire and the hybrid has more of an upright riding positon which is probably what you will want until you drop some lbs.

I suggest you visit some local bike shops and try and find someone who is willing to help you rather than just wanting to make a sale. Then you need to test ride several bikes and go with the one you finid most comfortable and fits your budget. For $800 you can get a nice ride.

Good luck and let us know what you decide on. I'm sure you will receive some better advice from some of the clydedales on this forum (I'm a clydesdale but not quite in the 300+ category).

the beef

The wheels are important to consider. As Kid said, you'll want 32 to 36 spokes per wheel, these will be a lot stronger. And if you weigh 380, why not go with a steel bike? It's stronger than other materials, and the extra 1 or 2 pounds over an aluminum frame won't even equal 1 percent of your body weight. Good luck on your goal, cycling's a great way to get in shape.

FlyGTI

I don't have a problem at all with a steel frame. Heck, if my dad's late 60s Schwinn Varsity was nearby and I could have it refurb'd, I'd ride that and probably feel fairly safe that I wouldn't pancake it.

I'd really like to find something a little more "roadie" than hybrid if it's possible. At 6'6", I'm told that I carry my weight fairly well...maybe I'm being placated on that one, but I think I might be able to handle the position. Again, I haven't ridden one yet, though. That could change very quickly.

The LBS I visited today recommended a Specialized Sequoia. Thoughts?

And...on this steel suggestion, who makes a good quality bike that'll work for what I'm trying to do?

BTW, I'm reading through that Clydesdale forum right now.

mikeoverly

For about $150 you can get a good Schwinn mountain bike at Wal-Mart, Target, etc. if you're just looking for a "lose weight" bike. Once you're down you can hop back on the Trek or go shopping.

Nachoman

Why will you have to spend $300.00? Just get a basic tune up, and get your trek up and running. If your tires are no good, or too thin for your current weight, go out and buy some wider tires (on sale).

FlyGTI

The Trek is pretty rough. Needs new cables, new shifters, chain, seat, tubes, tires, pads, brake levers, etc. It'd probably be less if I did the work myself, but I simply don't have time. I work 45-50 hours per week and don't know a ton about tearing down a bike and putting it back together.

I think that in the back of the house, the mechanics who looked the bike over were having a pretty good laugh trying to envision a giant like me riding anything. That irritated me just a little. They also may have been cranky because it was late in the day and they wanted to get out of the shop for the night.

the beef

Personally, I love Bianchi's steel frames. They're strong and comfortable as heck, while being fairly lightweight (all sub-24 pound bikes). Not only will a nice bike perform better, they'll give you more motivation to get out there and ride.

FlyGTI

In an optimal situation, I'd like to do two things.

1. Keep the Trek. It was, and still is, a good bike. No cracks in the frame that I'm aware of, and it performed very well for me for a long time in college. I'd like to tear it down and put it back together as time permitted, most likely with cheap Nashbar parts or something similar. I'd also toss the ancient Rock Shox Quadra 21R and turn it into an unsprung bike.

2. Buy a good quality road-ish bike that I can take on RAGBRAI someday, as well as do the local rides. Central Iowa has a ton of trails.

I'll look into a Bianchi.

Jinker

Man, don't let those guys get you down. You're taking a good first step here.

I'd second Kid's advice. Go with a hybrid to start. A few advantages:

1) More upright riding position, may be easier on your back.
2) Generally more robust frames
3) Often come specced with mtn bike gear train, a little more durable, and will get you a more useful low gear range for grinding up those steep hills. Remember, keep those legs spinning, your knees will thank you later!
4) Often a lot cheaper to get to the 'entry level' of decent quality.
5) The bike will probably come with wider rims which will accept wider tires which will give a softer ride and probably be more durable.

Road bikes seem to 'start' around $600-800 in a shop, and that gets you Sora level gear. You can order online for less, but from the sounds of it you want to start up a relationship with a bike shop, it'll pay off later. You should be able to get a pretty reasonable hybrid for less money than that.

You never mentioned where you are? Folks here might have some good advice as to which shops you should visit to get good service...

-Greg

FlyGTI

Thanks Jinker. I'm in Central Iowa, and I know that there are a bunch of West Des Moines/Waukee people around here.

If the hybrid comes with all the advantages of a fat-tired mtn. bike, I may as well keep the Trek and spend the money on it to get it ride-able. Perhaps some of you Central Iowans can point me in the right direction for a shop that won't try and put me on a new bike. I truly do/did like the 7000, and if there was a way to ride it again reasonably, I'd do it.



I guess the way I look at it, I'd rather be riding than not...

pseudobrit

Half of that is stuff you'd quickly want to replace on a hybrid anyway. I'd lean toward keeping your current steed.

Cycling is a sickness that will eventually consume you to the point where taking stuff apart is something you look forward to.

Bockman

welcome, flygti. Much respect for getting off your ample *ss and doing something about your situation (as a former fat f*ck, I can say stuff like that ). I would recommend perusing any of the threads with 'clydesdale' in the subject line, as that seems to be the politically correct term we're using here for people with excess adipose. Keep us posted on your progress please.

Dave

big john

If you do decide to get a road bike, at your height you are going to need a big frame, maybe 63cm or more. You'll find many builders don't make big frames. Have you thought about a used bike? You might be able to find a bike set up by another clyde that will work for you. Cannondale makes some big frames and I would suggest 36 spoke wheels or even more.

ElJamoquio

Just to re-iterate, as you're getting a lot of advice in this thread:

Keep your cadence (pedal RPM) up. Your knees are under a great deal of stress through normal day-to-day living; so keep the stress off of the knees while biking. A bonus upside is that the higher you spin, the more aerobic the exercise tends to be, and the further you'll be able to go without your legs being fatigued. (your lungs are a different story...). Everyone is different, but look for 80-90 RPM at a minimum. It'll feel fast at first.

Good Luck!

Kid-Cycle

FlyGTI - sounds like you're hell bent of a road frame. For strength and durability I suggest you look at actual touring bikes. Touring bikes typically have strong Cro Molly steel frames, the frames a little longer (good for tall rider), heavy durty wheels, slightly wider tires, and solid drive trains.

I've never ridden a true touring bike but other than a little weight they are similar to a road racing bike. You may want to check out the Trek 520. The largest frame looks to have a 25-inch seat tube (63.5 cm center to top of top tube or ~61 cm center to center).

Here is the link: https://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike...id=1432000&f=8

FlyGTI

All, thanks for the considerable kudos and advice given on these forums. Here's what I've decided to do, for the time being.

1. Keep the 7000. It's a good frame, and from time to time, I used to like to do more than make the commute back and forth from campus.
2. Put some new parts on it, and take a whole bunch off. After talking with a bike shop that I feel like I can trust, we're going to overhaul it into a single speed, so that I can concentrate on getting maximum benefit from the workout.
3. Save moolah, and search next spring for a closeout '06 road/touring setup.

I promise, I'll keep everyone up to speed on my progress. Look for me on the Clydesdales thread.

BTW...anyone have a rigid 7000 front fork in green, or an unused set of Rock Shox Quadra 21R elastomers?

Thanks again!

the beef

Not sure if going for the single speed set up is the correct path. You get a great aerobic workout simply by shifting smartly and staying within a good cadence range (80-90 rpm). Mashing pedals or spinning too quickly won't yield results (two things you are sometimes forced to do with a fixed gear). But then again, I haven't had as much experience with fixies, so I can't tell you for sure what the best course of action is in your situation. Good luck!