"Sytematic" test riding?
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"Sytematic" test riding?
I'm going to start shopping for my first road bike since my late lamented 70s vintage Raleigh Competition. I'll be visiting a few LBS to try out several bikes.
Memory being what it is, plus my inexperience: is there a "systematic" method of test riding to more or less objectively rate factors like handling, etc?
Or am I just being anal?
Of course, I'll buy at one of the said LBS.
Memory being what it is, plus my inexperience: is there a "systematic" method of test riding to more or less objectively rate factors like handling, etc?
Or am I just being anal?
Of course, I'll buy at one of the said LBS.
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The whole test riding experience can be difficult because some LBS won't let people do anything beyond parking lot rides. There are a few in my area that will let you take them on the road and do a real ride - some manufacturers even have a demo program that lets you test things extensively. Not sure if you have something like this in your area or not, but a real road ride makes a difference.
I bought my Ruby Pro after having tested about 8 bikes at Interbike last fall (cycling trade show in Vegas). It really helped to compare how the bikes handled on sharp corners, uphill, downhill and on sprints - things you just can't do in a parking lot.
Ask around to see if any of your LBS have a demo program where you can take something out for a ride. They may charge you $30, but it would be worth it I think.
I bought my Ruby Pro after having tested about 8 bikes at Interbike last fall (cycling trade show in Vegas). It really helped to compare how the bikes handled on sharp corners, uphill, downhill and on sprints - things you just can't do in a parking lot.
Ask around to see if any of your LBS have a demo program where you can take something out for a ride. They may charge you $30, but it would be worth it I think.
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Systematically testing bikes can be a challenge.
Ideally, you will have enough good road shops near you that let you take the bike away in your car so you can ride the same course on each tested bike. I did that a few years ago, riding each of three bikes on a 27-mile route I regularly rode on my old bike. Knowing how I felt at each part of the course on the old bike allowed me to focus on what was different about each test bike. Riding that far also allowed me to see now the new bikes behaved/felt under me when my form was breaking down towards the end. One of the greatest pleasures of a "better" bike is that it helps you out more when you are tired.
If you are not used to clipless pedals then BUY some flat pedals and use them on each test ride.
On the first test ride, get the saddle up to a point where your leg is straight with your HEEL on the pedal at the most extended part of the stroke - the heel must be firmly on the pedal but without your knee bent. Then measure from the BB center to the top of the saddle along the seatpost, to the millimeter. On each subsequent test ride, make sure that measurement is exactly the same. Make sure the crank length is the same each time - it probably will be based on an equivalent frame size.
Finally, and bike shops guys have been known to use this variable to steer clients, pump up the tires to the exact same pressure each time - 110 is probably good since all tires can take that.
There are other variables you won't be able to control, like stem length that changes your balance a bit and thus your handling, or HT or ST angles, though odds are whichever side of 73 degrees you are will have predictable effects, but equivalent saddle height, equivalent tire pressure and identical long test ride courses will put you SO far ahead of what most people experience you should be able to make an informed decision. Seeing how the LBS reacts to these requirements will also tell you a lot about where you should be doing business.
Ideally, you will have enough good road shops near you that let you take the bike away in your car so you can ride the same course on each tested bike. I did that a few years ago, riding each of three bikes on a 27-mile route I regularly rode on my old bike. Knowing how I felt at each part of the course on the old bike allowed me to focus on what was different about each test bike. Riding that far also allowed me to see now the new bikes behaved/felt under me when my form was breaking down towards the end. One of the greatest pleasures of a "better" bike is that it helps you out more when you are tired.
If you are not used to clipless pedals then BUY some flat pedals and use them on each test ride.
On the first test ride, get the saddle up to a point where your leg is straight with your HEEL on the pedal at the most extended part of the stroke - the heel must be firmly on the pedal but without your knee bent. Then measure from the BB center to the top of the saddle along the seatpost, to the millimeter. On each subsequent test ride, make sure that measurement is exactly the same. Make sure the crank length is the same each time - it probably will be based on an equivalent frame size.
Finally, and bike shops guys have been known to use this variable to steer clients, pump up the tires to the exact same pressure each time - 110 is probably good since all tires can take that.
There are other variables you won't be able to control, like stem length that changes your balance a bit and thus your handling, or HT or ST angles, though odds are whichever side of 73 degrees you are will have predictable effects, but equivalent saddle height, equivalent tire pressure and identical long test ride courses will put you SO far ahead of what most people experience you should be able to make an informed decision. Seeing how the LBS reacts to these requirements will also tell you a lot about where you should be doing business.
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Thanks, especially to 1centaur for the detailed response and the tip about keeping the same saddle height and tire pressure from ride to ride. I'm amazed that a shop would let you take a bike away on your car for a long test like that - hope a shop will let me do that. But I'll insist on more than a "tour de parking lot" at least to see who deserves my business.
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There are microscopic differences between bikes in any particular price range. Most bikes these days are very good handling so test riding doesn't tell you anything. I don't believe I ever test rode a bike in my life.
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Let me know how that works for you bcoppola, and which stores will allow you to take an extended test ride. I think I probably live in the same general area as you do (saw the crr reference in your intro post), and am very interested in which stores are eager for business these days!!
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I rode a bunch of bikes 18 months ago before I bought my Trek, and I could tell quite a bit of difference between the frame materials even with similar component groups. But it may be a challenge to find bikes in the right sizes with similar component groups.
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Eric
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199x Lemond Tourmalet, Yellow with fenders (Beast)
Read my cycling blog at https://riderx.info/blogs/riderx
Like climbing? Goto https://www.bicycleclimbs.com
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I test rode my bike and a few others, and other than each bike's specific geometry vs. size (56 vs 58, etc) they were all comperable. I'd suggest going to an LBS that can properly FIT you so you know what size to be test riding, then a lot of it is personal preference. I wanted best "out of the box" in my price range, with components and all. All the shops in my area take your driver's license and credit card and off you go with the bike to do whatever kind of testing you want... obviously nothing crazy
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It took me two days to pick my bike. While there are several shops in the area, one in particular has quite a wide selection. So the first day, I spend trying out as many brands, types and sizes as I could (many hours). They let me take the bikes out and I did about a mile or so for each ride. Some bikes were went off the list very quickly because they just didn't feel right (for example, I didn't like the relaxed geometry bikes so much). At the end of the day I went home to think about it.
The second day (which was a couple of weeks after the first), I went in to test the two bikes that I thought were best (Cannondale R1000 and an Orbea Dauphine). Of course a third was thrown in when I found a leftover Felt F2C in my size. All three bikes were great and any one of them would have been fine. The Orbea was first to go off the list because of the paint job (perfect paint, but not my style). Superficial, but as much as I like the fit and ride, I couldn't get past it. Then I took about 2 hours testing the R1000 and the F2C back to back to back... As much as I like the eye candy of the Felt, and as much as I tried to convince myself that I could make it fit perfectly, when I got on the R1000, it was a whole different ride. And somehow the LOGOS(!) didn't stop me from getting it. Definitely not a systematic or scientific method, but no matter how hard the ride, I can't wait to get back on that bike.
The second day (which was a couple of weeks after the first), I went in to test the two bikes that I thought were best (Cannondale R1000 and an Orbea Dauphine). Of course a third was thrown in when I found a leftover Felt F2C in my size. All three bikes were great and any one of them would have been fine. The Orbea was first to go off the list because of the paint job (perfect paint, but not my style). Superficial, but as much as I like the fit and ride, I couldn't get past it. Then I took about 2 hours testing the R1000 and the F2C back to back to back... As much as I like the eye candy of the Felt, and as much as I tried to convince myself that I could make it fit perfectly, when I got on the R1000, it was a whole different ride. And somehow the LOGOS(!) didn't stop me from getting it. Definitely not a systematic or scientific method, but no matter how hard the ride, I can't wait to get back on that bike.