samsation7

If so, what are your impressions of the finish and build? I've not seen a pair in person. Also, can I use my ultegra 6600 bottom bracket from my traditional 53/39 setup? I 've heard that I don't need a new front derailleur for these cranks. Will there be any parts I need to change to accommodate these cranks(rear derail., chain length, cassette, etc.)? I appreciate honest helps. There's not much iforum nfo on these cranks through the search so any input here will help other noobs to this new crank system as well.

Best,

Samuel

NealH

There is a comment about the R700 in the first post of this thread.

https://www.serotta.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17446

14max

I haven't tried it yet but I will soon. I'm having my Ultegra-equipped Firenze built with the R700 crankset instead of the standard double. The finish is in line with that group so I wouldn't be surprized if it has a seamless look.

You shouldn't have to change anything for the crankset except maybe the location of the front derailleur.

FunkyTang

Do you have to change the length of the chain when you swap between an Ultegra double and the R700?

f.gump

I did a test ride with it and shifting under effort was outstanding.

irablumberg

I recently and reluctantly replaced my DuraAce 53-39 crank with an R700 50-34. You absolutely can use your existing 6600 bottom bracket. Installation is really easy. Just unscrew the end cap on the non-drive side crank, then loosen the two pinch bolts on that crank. With that, you can slide the non-drive side crank arm right off the axle and then pull the drive side crank and axle out of the bottom bracket (of course take the chain off first ;-). Once you have removed your old crank, shove the new crank axle into the bottom bracket and bolt on the non-drive side crank arm. The R700 comes with good instructions and picture for all this. It takes all of 10 minutes.

I have had good luck with my R700. It shifts very smoothly and the finish is quite nice. It is a bit more shiny than the DuraAce it replaced, but uses the same "Hollow Tech" design, so it feels quite solid, stiff and light. Build quality looks as good as Dura Ace. Overall, I am very pleased with the R700 (except that I had to admit to myself that my knees are so old and tired that I really do need a 34x27 gear on some of the local hills ;-)

You will need to slide your front der. down a bit. Again, this is easy. Just line it up so it is parallel with the chainrings and so that when shifted for the outer ring, the cage is just barely above the outer ring. Then, take up the slack in the cable.

Finally, I had to take 2 links out of my chain. I used it as a good excuse to add a Wipperman quick opening link. This operation took 2 minutes as I just needed to push out 2 link pins with a standard chain tool and then slip in the Wipperman link. Take a look at www.parktool.com. There is a good short tutorial on setting a chain to the right length.

Overall, if you want a compact crank and you already have a new style Shimano bottom bracket, I don't think you can do much better than the R700. It is about the same weight as the fancy carbon cranks, but has none of the issues of carbon, installs more simply than any other, is well built, and (if you shop on e-bay) is available for $200.

Good luck,
Ira

azwhelan

What Ira said.

Shimano states that it is built to Ultegra level even though it isn't branded that way. I got mine off Ebay for $200 as well. You do need a special tool, unless someone has found an alternative, to remove and install the endcap on the non-drive side crank. Shimano makes one or you can get a tool from Park that has the piece attached to the end of a wrench for your BB for $20. Probably a better value.

'nother

Got one; have about 3000 miles on it; love it (previous setup was 39/52 with 12-32, yes you read that right 32).

If you have the external bearing type BB then all you need is the crankset. If you have an older BB then you'll need a new BB as well. You don't need a new FD but you'll need to lower your existing FD a little bit. You probably don't need to shorten your chain but if there's any doubt or if you're a weenie about that kind of thing check out https://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26 and Get Right With Calvin.

ruppster

Have the R700 on my new Cannondale R1000. The guys I ride with thought it was DA at first glance. I bought it because the bike shop had the bike in stock in 58cm. I think I may change the cassette from 12-25 to 11-23 though. (I now get dropped downhill.)

astrodaimler

Nice cranks. I replaced my Ultegras as well 53/39 with 50/34 compacts. With 11-23 cassette, you can actually get a few more inches on the low side and a few more inches on the high side. Doesn't make sense but the math does (previous cassette was 12-25 stock from my Giant). Didn't change my BB or my front der.

'nother

++ on the 11-23. I use one for regular training rides, and swap in the 12-27 for climb-fests or long rides.

Denali

I replaced my older Ultegra crank and had to get the new bottom bracket. The bike shop that did it for me also had to put the Dura Ace chain on because the other was not shifting well.

seely

The Shimano compacts so far are EXCELLENT... the best compact I have used to date. No special derailleur, and flawless, easy setup. They aren't finicky once you get them on the road either like some others.

samsation7

Hello Ira,

No reason to feel bad, age gets the best of us. I am sure you'll probably beat me up the hill anyway. I really appreciate your taking the time to explain the system. It was very helpful. I think I'll pull the trigger on ebay soon.

samsation7

Thanks for the link to toolpark USA. This is the first time I heard that I may not need to remove the two links with the new system. However, I'll go to Mike's Bike for a check. BTW, how did you put together a 12-32 cassette? I thought I was pretty clever when I switched the end cluster(19-21-23) of my 11-23 10 speed and traded the 16-T ring for a 19-T so that I now have a custom 10 speed Ultegra cassette from 11-27: 11,12,13,14,15,17,19,21,24,27.

samsation7

I mean to say I switched the 10 speed 19-21-23 cassette cluster for a 10 speed cassette 21-24-27 cluster and traded a 16T from the 11-23 cassette for a 19T so that I now run 10 speed 11-27. I think cycling truly gets fun when you realize that you can change the gears to make your life less stressful up the climbs.

samsation7

I mean to say I switched the 10 speed 19-21-23 cassette cluster for a 10 speed cassette 21-24-27 cluster and traded a 16T from the 11-23 cassette for a 19T so that I now run 10 speed 11-27. I think cycling truly gets fun when you realize that you can change the gears to make your life less stressful up the climbs.