TT-Do you really need 2 chainrings?
11-04-06, 03:31 PM
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TT-Do you really need 2 chainrings?
Im debating if I should put 2 chainrings on my tt bike or 1. I use the tt bike only on flats to rolling. Please help.
11-04-06, 03:39 PM
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It depends on what you prefer, a second chainring wouldn't hurt, but it probably wouldn't help much aero-wise. I'm TTist, but once I get the right cluster in the rear, I don't need the small chainring, I can take 20+% grades in the large ring, so if you have enough power, go for it.
11-04-06, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Dial_tone
You don't need both but if it's already there - what do you gain by taking it off? and vice versa.
More importantly, do you need a 50, 52, 53 or 55?
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11-04-06, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
I can take 20+% grades in the large ring, so if you have enough power, go for it.
Speed For Given Power
Speed For These Parameters 2.65 m/s = 5.9 mph
Power 400 watts
Frontal Area 0.5 m2
Coefficient Wind Drag 0.5 Dimensionless
Air Density 1.226 kg/m3
Weight Rider & Bike 75 kg
Coefficient of Rolling 0.004 Dimensionless
Slope of Hill 0.2 decimal
Then we take 5.9 mph to Sheldon Brown and since I'm lazy, I look up speed at 40 rpm. I see that a 53x25 gives 6.6 mph. So I figure you're turning less than 40 rpm using a totally inappropriate gear, you're monstrously powerful to TT at over 400W, your hills are so short, you're letting momentum carry you over the top (in which case you're not really riding the hill), or just perhaps you misjudge the grade of hills.
11-04-06, 04:03 PM
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I guess you really dont need two rings but its a hassle taking off the rings and putting them back on. I'd just leave 'em there.
11-04-06, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Juklano
Im debating if I should put 2 chainrings on my tt bike or 1. I use the tt bike only on flats to rolling. Please help.
11-04-06, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
I can take 20+% grades in the large ring
11-04-06, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cat4ever
I would like to see you do that.
Keep in mind, if you remove the 2nd ring and accidently knock that front derailleur you're down 20 seconds putting that chain back on...way more than you save by removing it.
Last edited by Dubbayoo; 11-04-06 at 08:47 PM.
11-04-06, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CrimsonKarter21
It depends on what you prefer, a second chainring wouldn't hurt, but it probably wouldn't help much aero-wise. I'm TTist, but once I get the right cluster in the rear, I don't need the small chainring, I can take 20+% grades in the large ring, so if you have enough power, go for it.
and then you wake up.
11-04-06, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Dial_tone
Keep in mind, if you remove the 2nd ring and accidently knock that front derailleur you're down 20 second putting that chain back on...way more than you save by removing it.
11-04-06, 07:02 PM
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limiter screws could solve the derailler issue, and an upgraded power dial could solve the 20+% grade issue
11-04-06, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by PenguinDeD
limiter screws could solve the derailler issue, and an upgraded power dial could solve the 20+% grade issue
I'm still using the outdated dials that go to 9.
11-04-06, 07:21 PM
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This one goes to eleven: https://www.cyclingnews.com/road/2002...02/?id=results
11-04-06, 07:41 PM
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if you are taking off the second chainring, what the hell do you need to keep the derailler on for?
11-04-06, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by goldfish
if you are taking off the second chainring, what the hell do you need to keep the derailler on for?
11-04-06, 08:18 PM
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Now you might want to make the big and little ring closer - I have a 42 on the middle ring of my triple (gasp) and it's great for what I might call rolling ascents. So you could go with a 53/42 and that might cover all you'll ever really see, including headwinds.
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11-05-06, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Dial_tone
I couldn't take a 20% hill on the big ring of a compact.
Keep in mind, if you remove the 2nd ring and accidently knock that front derailleur you're down 20 seconds putting that chain back on...way more than you save by removing it.
Keep in mind, if you remove the 2nd ring and accidently knock that front derailleur you're down 20 seconds putting that chain back on...way more than you save by removing it.
11-05-06, 09:27 PM
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I see no real reason why you would bother taking off the smaller chainring, pointless pain in the ass. Just don't use it if you don't need it.
Interesting about the dial to 11, my tri club's shirt this year has "This is Purdue Triathlon" in the appropriate font with a big dial set to 11 on the front, and on the back it says "we go to eleven" it's pretty sweet.
Interesting about the dial to 11, my tri club's shirt this year has "This is Purdue Triathlon" in the appropriate font with a big dial set to 11 on the front, and on the back it says "we go to eleven" it's pretty sweet.
11-05-06, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by sathomasga
That happened to David Millar in the TdF prologue a few years ago. Only took him 3 seconds to put the chain back on (damned impressive to those mechanically challenged folks like me). Still cost him the yellow jersey though.
but if you were to get rid of the small ring, why have to brakes?
11-05-06, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by fogrider
I was thinking the same thing...I would just leave it alone. but going with a closer chainring is a great idea, you could find a 44.
but if you were to get rid of the small ring, why have to brakes?
but if you were to get rid of the small ring, why have to brakes?
11-06-06, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dial_tone
what does one have to do with the other?
I'm still stuck on climbing 20% in the big ring. Maybe he's running 39/30 in the front. Probably not though, probably tell us it's a 55.
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