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will this work: replace QR skewer with solid axle/nut?

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will this work: replace QR skewer with solid axle/nut?

Old 03-02-07, 10:38 PM
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will this work: replace QR skewer with solid axle/nut?

caught this over in the fixed gear/ss forum and though it to be a good idea. i don't like running quick release on my bikes so i'm forced to use replacement hex skewers (probably meant for bmx bikes) that are notorious for having aluminum threads, nuts, and teeth that strip way too easily. obvious bolts are much more durable, but has anyone actually used these replacements? i'm hoping that this will be a solution to my problem:

instead of using QR, use this solid axle and these axle nuts


what do you think?

Last edited by pedalfile; 03-02-07 at 10:45 PM.
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Old 03-02-07, 10:55 PM
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I have done it with low end hubs having cups and cones. It may be hard for cartridge bearing hubs. Just need to make sure the threads match.

Mike

I thought Loose Screws went out fo business. Thanks
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Old 03-02-07, 10:56 PM
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Old 03-02-07, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by blandin
Nashbar has em for $8
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Old 03-03-07, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by blandin
I've used some like these when I've been touring or going to be locking up my bike, also on some century rides where I wanted my bike as light as possible. They work fine, and are light at about 35 gr.
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Old 03-03-07, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by pedalfile
i don't like running quick release on my bikes....
And the objection to QR is?
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Old 03-03-07, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
And the objection to QR is?
Theft deterrent maybe?
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Old 03-03-07, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
And the objection to QR is?
Horizontal drop or track end + big burst of torque + QR = wheel slip bike go BOOM!
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Old 03-03-07, 11:25 AM
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It's takes some work to replace hollow axles with solid ones. You have to remove everything from the axle, replace the hollow axle and then adjust the whole thing so it turns smoothly. Its more complicated than simply repacking or replacing the bearings as every thing in the system must be reset. The reason that the fixed/SS guys like solid axles is that they require really tight mounting of the rear wheel in horizontal drop-outs or track ends to resist movement when they apply back pressure to the pedals. On a newer road bike with vertical drop-outs movement is way less of a real concern.
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Old 03-03-07, 01:07 PM
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Makes sense on a fixed gear. As for theft deterrence, I wouldn't bet any wheels worth stealing on the thief's absence of a wrench.

And for pulling loose in horizontal drops, lots of TT bikes are made with horizontal drop outs to allow adjustment of the wheel to a cutout seatpost that work just fine with QR.

If you know how to tighten a QR, you're not going to pull the wheel out a geared road bike.
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Old 03-03-07, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by merlinextraligh
... If you know how to tighten a QR, you're not going to pull the wheel out a geared road bike.
Not quite true. Some newer wheels have hubs with almost no serrations on the QR side and on the nuts of the hub. So no matter how tight you make the QR, the wheel will nerver hold in horzontal drop-outs. These wheels should only be used on vertical drop-outs.
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Old 03-03-07, 04:16 PM
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its not much harder than overhauling a hub and it can be done on sealed bearing hubs too. the only additional trouble is resetting the center of the axle since both cones have to be undone, no biggie.

ive done it on both of my single speed wheels, one sealed, one loss ball.
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Old 03-03-07, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by MrCjolsen
Horizontal drop or track end + big burst of torque + QR = wheel slip bike go BOOM!
Only on a horizontal drop conversion bike it'll fall off. With a track end, the wheel will just get really loose but enough to ride on to stop, and a vertical drop bike will wobble.
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Old 03-04-07, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Trevor98
It's takes some work to replace hollow axles with solid ones. You have to remove everything from the axle, replace the hollow axle and then adjust the whole thing so it turns smoothly. Its more complicated than simply repacking or replacing the bearings as every thing in the system must be reset. The reason that the fixed/SS guys like solid axles is that they require really tight mounting of the rear wheel in horizontal drop-outs or track ends to resist movement when they apply back pressure to the pedals. On a newer road bike with vertical drop-outs movement is way less of a real concern.
Anyone with limited technical knowledge and a $10 tool set can do this in less than 15 minutes, assuming one has the replacement axle ready for the swap.
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Old 03-04-07, 07:33 AM
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I do not assume people have "limited technical knowledge." I have seen too many people screw up machines or themselves because they have no mechanical inclination. This change takes some work, however, it is within the reach of most people to accomplish given good instructions and the proper tools. Some people are not comfortable doing this even much mechanical work.
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Old 03-04-07, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by shakeNbake
Nashbar has em for $8
I wouldn't recommend the Nashbar one. I had a skewer snap when I tried to tighten it in my horizontal drops.
The only piece of Nashbar gear, or really any gear, that I've had fail like that.
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Old 03-04-07, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike552
assuming one has the replacement axle ready for the swap.
Therein lies the rub. Getting the correct replacement axle.

A couple of other posters have made mention to getting an axle with the correct thread. You have to get the right length too. The typical bolt-on axles that you see have different threading than QR axles. Consequently the cones won't thread onto them.

Actually, I think that 15 minutes might be pushing the envelope a little but, assuming you have the correct parts on hand, it shouldn't be a very hard job to do.
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