Seat post torque setting?
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Seat post torque setting?
I have an '07 Orbea Orca w/ Zeus carbon seatpost. I'm looking to adjust the seatpost height. I RTFM and couldn't find any torque settings.
1. Does anybody know the torque setting for the seatpost? I could always get it from my LBS but asking here is easier (LBS is closed right now).
2. I also need a torque wrench- I like the ratchet type. Got any recommendations? LBS suggested a Sears Craftsman but it's pretty big. Seems like overkill, but what do I know?
TIA-
not2blu
2007 Orbea Orca, Sram Force
1. Does anybody know the torque setting for the seatpost? I could always get it from my LBS but asking here is easier (LBS is closed right now).
2. I also need a torque wrench- I like the ratchet type. Got any recommendations? LBS suggested a Sears Craftsman but it's pretty big. Seems like overkill, but what do I know?
TIA-
not2blu
2007 Orbea Orca, Sram Force
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should be 5-8 newton meters on the post.
Look for a torque wrench that has inch pounds and newton meters. They are not cheap and they are usually overkill for a carbon bike build, the most torque is the bottom bracket.
I found one, not on ebay but low and behold Amazon.com, there were also metric sets of 3/8 hex to go with it, best to get a long set as well, if you build a bike you will wnat to have a longer set of 3/8 metric hex.
Look for a torque wrench that has inch pounds and newton meters. They are not cheap and they are usually overkill for a carbon bike build, the most torque is the bottom bracket.
I found one, not on ebay but low and behold Amazon.com, there were also metric sets of 3/8 hex to go with it, best to get a long set as well, if you build a bike you will wnat to have a longer set of 3/8 metric hex.
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Originally Posted by richphoto
should be 5-8 newton meters on the post.
Look for a torque wrench that has inch pounds and newton meters. They are not cheap and they are usually overkill for a carbon bike build, the most torque is the bottom bracket.
I found one, not on ebay but low and behold Amazon.com, there were also metric sets of 3/8 hex to go with it, best to get a long set as well, if you build a bike you will wnat to have a longer set of 3/8 metric hex.
Look for a torque wrench that has inch pounds and newton meters. They are not cheap and they are usually overkill for a carbon bike build, the most torque is the bottom bracket.
I found one, not on ebay but low and behold Amazon.com, there were also metric sets of 3/8 hex to go with it, best to get a long set as well, if you build a bike you will wnat to have a longer set of 3/8 metric hex.
I was actually looking at Amazon earlier. It's not easy to find the right one. First, I downloaded a PDF from Park Tools listing various torque settings for different components. This PDF gives you a good idea of the torque range you should be shopping for in a wrench. For anybody looking to purchase a torque wrench, I'd recommend looking at this first.
Then, on Amazon, the one that I found best-suited for the wide range of components is the K-D Tools KD 3459. It's a 3/8" drive with a 25-250 in-lbs (3.61-29.03 Nm). It's just under $75.
Amazon also sells one that's almost identical by SK Handtools for $98. I think I'll get the $75 K-D Tools wrench and spend an extra few bucks on a hex head set like you suggested.
Thanks for you help and quick response!
-not2blu
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hmm, I just bought one and it was $19.00, the hex set about $12.00. The dial ones are nicer to own. I don't know why your search did not bring up the less expensive ones, at that price, might as well buy the Park tool brand.
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Originally Posted by richphoto
hmm, I just bought one and it was $19.00, the hex set about $12.00. The dial ones are nicer to own. I don't know why your search did not bring up the less expensive ones, at that price, might as well buy the Park tool brand.
And here's the ratchet I'm looking at:
The ratchet is about $75 no matter where you get it. Sears has it. What do you have?
Also, a standard 3/8" 8-piece metric hex set is about $12.00, but the long ones are $35.00 to $60.00.
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Originally Posted by not2blu
Is yours a ratchet or lever type? Park Tools only sells the lever type:
And here's the ratchet I'm looking at:
The ratchet is about $75 no matter where you get it. Sears has it. What do you have?
Also, a standard 3/8" 8-piece metric hex set is about $12.00, but the long ones are $35.00 to $60.00.
And here's the ratchet I'm looking at:
The ratchet is about $75 no matter where you get it. Sears has it. What do you have?
Also, a standard 3/8" 8-piece metric hex set is about $12.00, but the long ones are $35.00 to $60.00.
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and, no reason not to go with the craftsman model from Sears, they do make good tools, It used to be that they all had lifetime warranty, now I think ther charge a little for it. We once broke a $1200.00 massive Torque wrench ( the kind you use to put Heavy machines together), granted we put too much force on it,
sears replaced it, no questions.
sears replaced it, no questions.
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I think I will go with the Craftsman because it will cost less (pay less in tax vs. shipping) than other online shops and I can get it any time I want without having to wait for it. So torque wrench + 3/8" metric hex sets (long and short) + tax = about $130.
Again, thanks for your help.
Again, thanks for your help.
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I am coming around to Sheldon Brown's way of thinking about using a torque wrench on a bicycle. I don't use one either and am an engineer and own a CF frame. My suggestion on a seat post and anything carbon fiber is...err on the low side of torque when initally setting up a bike. For the seat tube pinch bolt,
use a T allen and use fairly light torque and ride the bike. If the post slips, use a bit more torque. I do this all by hand now. As far as seat post retention...I need far less torque on my carbon fiber bike then my steel bike to keep the post in place. Same applies to CF stems for those that use them which isn't me.
The steerer clamp requires very little torque and the handlebar clamp should also be trial and error to keep from stripping or cracking. If the handlebar slips, use a hint more torque until it no longer slips.
George
use a T allen and use fairly light torque and ride the bike. If the post slips, use a bit more torque. I do this all by hand now. As far as seat post retention...I need far less torque on my carbon fiber bike then my steel bike to keep the post in place. Same applies to CF stems for those that use them which isn't me.
The steerer clamp requires very little torque and the handlebar clamp should also be trial and error to keep from stripping or cracking. If the handlebar slips, use a hint more torque until it no longer slips.
George
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i love my two craftsman micro torque clicker style torque wrenches. i have had them for close to 15 years. they have been great. i hardly use them anymore due to experience. i never really used them much on bikes...just motorcycles.
as mentioned, make sure to get the inch*pounds one. it looks big, but it works well, you'll see. while you are at it, you might want to pick up an assortment of drive adapters and some metric hex sockets.
as mentioned, make sure to get the inch*pounds one. it looks big, but it works well, you'll see. while you are at it, you might want to pick up an assortment of drive adapters and some metric hex sockets.
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