New-ish to biking. Newbie questions.
#1
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Bikes: '06 Specialized Tarmac Comp Triple, Trek 7200 FX hybrid, Torker LX 20 in. Unicycle, My old bike that I used when I was 8 and have since put a lawnmower engine on it.
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New-ish to biking. Newbie questions.
Greetings!
I've been biking around on a trek 7.2 FX hybrid bike that I bought to get me around campus and over a few mountains on rec rides, but I'm starting to see that I like road biking a lot more than mountain biking. I thought that I could get by with just my hybrid, but then I biked to Santa Cruz (70 miles) and realized that it wasn't that comfortable or efficient. So now I'm looking into getting a road bike and think that I'd be interested in investing in the quality of a bike in the $700-$1500 range (I'm aiming at around a grand for a COMPLETE bike). I hit up the bikes direct website and a few of my LBS's but I have some questions.
I'm interested in long distance (50+ miles) rides but I'd also like to race with my school's club (because I get free bike shorts and a jersey as well as discounted shoes....and parties )
1) Paired spokes vs. Standard spokes? I know that wheelsets with paired spokes are lighter but by how much I don't know. Is this weight drop even significant? Is it worth the sacrificed durability? If I mack a curb/deep pothole going 5 mph, will I destroy one of those precious spokes? Most bikes in my price range come with standard wheels. Any other pros or cons?
2) Frame material? Lets see. Aluminum, Steel, Carbon, Titanium. Titanium is out of my price range. Steel is rare. Carbon could be in my price range. Aluminum can come with a carbon fork or just all aluminum. What's the difference? I know it depends on the frame and the person riding style etc. but just throw out some opinions and I'll make up my mind at a LBS.
3) Components? So Shimano seems to be the thing you get. However, I see sora, 105, ultegra, dura ace. Sora seems to get slammed a lot but my question is: What makes these various shimano components different? Is it a different feel? Just more durable?
4) How do you tell if a bikesdirect bike will fit? Should I even consider bikes direct? Please slam them if you feel its necessary, but explain why. If you think they're good say why.
5)Would building my own bike make more sense and save some cents? If so, do you start with the frame and then get the parts to match?
Thanks for all ur help, I'm sure I'll have some more questions as well.
-Chri3s (the three is silent)
I've been biking around on a trek 7.2 FX hybrid bike that I bought to get me around campus and over a few mountains on rec rides, but I'm starting to see that I like road biking a lot more than mountain biking. I thought that I could get by with just my hybrid, but then I biked to Santa Cruz (70 miles) and realized that it wasn't that comfortable or efficient. So now I'm looking into getting a road bike and think that I'd be interested in investing in the quality of a bike in the $700-$1500 range (I'm aiming at around a grand for a COMPLETE bike). I hit up the bikes direct website and a few of my LBS's but I have some questions.
I'm interested in long distance (50+ miles) rides but I'd also like to race with my school's club (because I get free bike shorts and a jersey as well as discounted shoes....and parties )
1) Paired spokes vs. Standard spokes? I know that wheelsets with paired spokes are lighter but by how much I don't know. Is this weight drop even significant? Is it worth the sacrificed durability? If I mack a curb/deep pothole going 5 mph, will I destroy one of those precious spokes? Most bikes in my price range come with standard wheels. Any other pros or cons?
2) Frame material? Lets see. Aluminum, Steel, Carbon, Titanium. Titanium is out of my price range. Steel is rare. Carbon could be in my price range. Aluminum can come with a carbon fork or just all aluminum. What's the difference? I know it depends on the frame and the person riding style etc. but just throw out some opinions and I'll make up my mind at a LBS.
3) Components? So Shimano seems to be the thing you get. However, I see sora, 105, ultegra, dura ace. Sora seems to get slammed a lot but my question is: What makes these various shimano components different? Is it a different feel? Just more durable?
4) How do you tell if a bikesdirect bike will fit? Should I even consider bikes direct? Please slam them if you feel its necessary, but explain why. If you think they're good say why.
5)Would building my own bike make more sense and save some cents? If so, do you start with the frame and then get the parts to match?
Thanks for all ur help, I'm sure I'll have some more questions as well.
-Chri3s (the three is silent)
#2
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1) you are giving in to marketing hype. Paired spokes are not necessarily lighter, it is just a single lacing pattern developed by Rolf and then stolen by trek/bontrager. There are many lacing patterns, and MANY better wheels than those made by rolf/bontrager.
2) Aluminum with a carbon fork and maybe rear stays would probably be in your price range. Check out some of the current offerings from Performancebike.com, I think they have some in the 1000-1200 range with the carbon bits
3) As components get better, they get lighter, crisper, and usually more durable. Try to stay away from Sora, the shifters seem to have been designed by a blind mentally deficient monkey. Tiagra (right above Sora) and 105 are near your price range, so look for a bike that comes with these levels.
4) Find out what size you need at your local bike shop, and see if you can get a deal there first. Always better to support the local guys. If you can't get a deal, you will at least know what size you are so you can get the right size bike at bikedirect or some similar online company. Be warned though, if you bring your bikesdirect bike into the shop to get fit, they aren't going be all that happy with you.
5) Building your own bike will almost never be cheaper, unless you get everything at super deals (on ebay and the suchlike). Bike companies get components much cheaper than you can, and they usually pass on that savings in the cost of the whole bike.
2) Aluminum with a carbon fork and maybe rear stays would probably be in your price range. Check out some of the current offerings from Performancebike.com, I think they have some in the 1000-1200 range with the carbon bits
3) As components get better, they get lighter, crisper, and usually more durable. Try to stay away from Sora, the shifters seem to have been designed by a blind mentally deficient monkey. Tiagra (right above Sora) and 105 are near your price range, so look for a bike that comes with these levels.
4) Find out what size you need at your local bike shop, and see if you can get a deal there first. Always better to support the local guys. If you can't get a deal, you will at least know what size you are so you can get the right size bike at bikedirect or some similar online company. Be warned though, if you bring your bikesdirect bike into the shop to get fit, they aren't going be all that happy with you.
5) Building your own bike will almost never be cheaper, unless you get everything at super deals (on ebay and the suchlike). Bike companies get components much cheaper than you can, and they usually pass on that savings in the cost of the whole bike.
#3
n00bie
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: 10 feet ahead of you.
Posts: 215
Bikes: '06 Specialized Tarmac Comp Triple, Trek 7200 FX hybrid, Torker LX 20 in. Unicycle, My old bike that I used when I was 8 and have since put a lawnmower engine on it.
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awesome. thanks for the answers. Anybody else?
#4
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1) STANDARD.
2) I'm partial to aluminum, but to each their own.
3) Dura-ace is lightest. The cassettes are actually less durable than ultegra. Sora have bad (in many people's opinions) shifters, with less gears. 105 is a great compromise; I have ultegra; depending on your budget, you won't go wrong with either, assuming you're buying Shimano.
4) I wouldn't buy a bikesdirect bike as a newbie.
5) Building your own bike is more expensive.
2) I'm partial to aluminum, but to each their own.
3) Dura-ace is lightest. The cassettes are actually less durable than ultegra. Sora have bad (in many people's opinions) shifters, with less gears. 105 is a great compromise; I have ultegra; depending on your budget, you won't go wrong with either, assuming you're buying Shimano.
4) I wouldn't buy a bikesdirect bike as a newbie.
5) Building your own bike is more expensive.
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#5
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Don't over analyze. It comes down to fit and budget.
Since this is your first road bike you probably don't know for sure what a good-fitting bike feels like. Find a bike shop with people who act like they both know what they're doing and care enough to make sure they get it right.
Budget drives everything else.
Since this is your first road bike you probably don't know for sure what a good-fitting bike feels like. Find a bike shop with people who act like they both know what they're doing and care enough to make sure they get it right.
Budget drives everything else.
#6
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A few of my current favorites in terms of bang for buck (recently helped a bunch of new teammates for my collegiate team buy bikes in your same price range):
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ce_instock.htm
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../ltd30_wcs.htm
But I'm still a huge advocate of buying from your LBS, or at least going in and talking to them first.
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...ce_instock.htm
https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/.../ltd30_wcs.htm
But I'm still a huge advocate of buying from your LBS, or at least going in and talking to them first.
#7
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1) Paired spokes ain't necessarily lighter. I used to run a pair of Bontrager Selects, those things weighed close to 1900g. My latest wheels aren't paired, and they're a scant 1600g. Bottom line, there are a bunch of different spoke designs, paired being one of them, and wheel weight depends on more than spoke pattern.
2) No comment. They all have merits and they're all hyped by their respective fans. Test ride em, see what you like.
3) Sora's just a little unreliable, and many don't like the position of the thumb shifter. I had it, and the drivetrain required constant adjustment. I'd advise you to start with Tiagra, maybe 105. Those are both very solid groups that'll last you years and years.
4) I will not say "always support the local guys", because there's no reason to go into every purchase with such a strong bias. A smart consumer looks at all the choices. That being said, as a beginner you'll benefit from the learning experience you get from a good, patient bike shop. As you learn more you'll find sites like Bikesdirect will offer better deals.
5) I'd advise you to start with a full bike. Build once you learn more about what you want in a bike.
Cheers,
Will
2) No comment. They all have merits and they're all hyped by their respective fans. Test ride em, see what you like.
3) Sora's just a little unreliable, and many don't like the position of the thumb shifter. I had it, and the drivetrain required constant adjustment. I'd advise you to start with Tiagra, maybe 105. Those are both very solid groups that'll last you years and years.
4) I will not say "always support the local guys", because there's no reason to go into every purchase with such a strong bias. A smart consumer looks at all the choices. That being said, as a beginner you'll benefit from the learning experience you get from a good, patient bike shop. As you learn more you'll find sites like Bikesdirect will offer better deals.
5) I'd advise you to start with a full bike. Build once you learn more about what you want in a bike.
Cheers,
Will
#8
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Head to your LBS and ride, ride, ride. See if you can find a deal on an '06 or earlier bike. I got an '06 C'dale R800se (CAAD8) for ~$1k. Now is a good time to find some deals (although it is getting a little thin).
I wouldn't even consider buying online for a first bike. If you know the material and geometry already then it is fine. If not you could be setting yourself up for some trouble.
I'm going to plug your LBS again. Example: when shopping for a bike I was automatically looking for a ~63cm frame. That is what I rode before. I watched ebay and visited local shops. I ended up on a 60cm frame with a relatively short stem. The LBS spent an hour fitting me to the bike. The difference in comfort from my previous bike is amazing. Fit is everything!
Good luck!
I wouldn't even consider buying online for a first bike. If you know the material and geometry already then it is fine. If not you could be setting yourself up for some trouble.
I'm going to plug your LBS again. Example: when shopping for a bike I was automatically looking for a ~63cm frame. That is what I rode before. I watched ebay and visited local shops. I ended up on a 60cm frame with a relatively short stem. The LBS spent an hour fitting me to the bike. The difference in comfort from my previous bike is amazing. Fit is everything!
Good luck!
#9
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Plus with the local bike shop you won't have to pay 40 or so dollars to have them assemble and fit your online purchase, and they'll give you lifetime tuneups and whatnot.
#10
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+1 to the lifetime tuneups. Index shifting can be a real pain in the unmentionables, and having someone to tweak it when there are problems is a big plus. Later on, you get more familiar with how to deal with that stuff, but for now it would have some benefit.
Plus, a good LBS will offer you fitting before and after the bike is bought. One LBS around here will do fit sessions for the life of the bike, in addition to the tune-ups.
Plus, a good LBS will offer you fitting before and after the bike is bought. One LBS around here will do fit sessions for the life of the bike, in addition to the tune-ups.