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  1. #1
    Senior Member Dubbayoo's Avatar
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    Should there be any play in a cassette?

    My first 10-speed Shimano cassette. I notice if I grab the 6-7 smaller rings I can wiggle them back and forth a few mm with the lockring on. Should that happen? The lockring seems to be on as tight as it will go.

  2. #2
    Senior Member austinspinner's Avatar
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    The alumanium cassette carriers do not last forever. The splines can be notched over time by the cassettes when the freewheel engages especially if they are steel. Best bet is to take the cassette off and see if the carrier needs to be replaced.
    "I love fools’ experiments. I am always making them." - Darwin

  3. #3
    Member squintal's Avatar
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    might be missing a spacer - some freehub bodies are slightly longer than others, so those may require a small shim on the wheel side of the cassette. You should be able to find one at you LBS

    Before you do that however, make absolutely sure that your cassette lockring is on straight, and also that the smallest cog is lined up properly with the freehub. Check the lockring threads for wear and stripping (especially on used hubs.) and check all surfaces for dirt or irregularities.

    When everything is stacked properly, and before the lockring is installed, the cassette should sit slightly (2 mm or less) proud of the end of the freehub. This way the lockring will clamp the cassette firmly together and eliminate play. Torque the lockring down reasonably tight, to avoid the possibility of it's coming loose.

    Once you have installed the cassette, give it a good spin to check that the cogs run true. If they don't, repeat cleaning, aligning and installation.
    good luck

  4. #4
    Faith-Vigilance-Service Patriot's Avatar
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    There should be no movement.
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  5. #5
    Used to be a climber.. GuitarWizard's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patriot
    There should be no movement.
    +1
    1999 Trek 2500 - hit by a car on it in May, 2011 and currently bikeless

  6. #6
    Dirt-riding heretic DrPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GuitarWizard
    +1
    +2.
    "Unless he was racing there was no way he could match my speed."

  7. #7
    Senior Member DieselDan's Avatar
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    If you are using a 8/9 speed freehub body, you will need a 1mm spacer between the hub and cassette.
    Bikes use brakes to stop.

    If your bike has breaks, don't ride it.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by squintal
    might be missing a spacer - some freehub bodies are slightly longer than others, so those may require a small shim on the wheel side of the cassette. You should be able to find one at you LBS

    Before you do that however, make absolutely sure that your cassette lockring is on straight, and also that the smallest cog is lined up properly with the freehub. Check the lockring threads for wear and stripping (especially on used hubs.) and check all surfaces for dirt or irregularities.

    When everything is stacked properly, and before the lockring is installed, the cassette should sit slightly (2 mm or less) proud of the end of the freehub. This way the lockring will clamp the cassette firmly together and eliminate play. Torque the lockring down reasonably tight, to avoid the possibility of it's coming loose.

    Once you have installed the cassette, give it a good spin to check that the cogs run true. If they don't, repeat cleaning, aligning and installation.
    good luck
    Yep. Follow this advice. In fact, I would take everyone off and re-install just to be sure.

  9. #9
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    Is the cassette on mavic wheels?

  10. #10
    Senior Member Dubbayoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by canaxer
    Is the cassette on mavic wheels?
    Yes, Ksyrium but it's not the Mavic shim thats the problem. It's definitely the lockring spacer. it's a brand new 10-speed that I just put on and there are definitely no spacers missing. I may have used the wrong one for the lockring. During install I had a Mavic spacer on my desk so I may have mixed them up. They are not the same thickness. I can see the lockring doesn't mate up to it evenly so I'll switch it when I get back.
    Last edited by Dubbayoo; 03-15-07 at 09:25 AM.

  11. #11
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    almost all mavic or zipp wheels ive seen need either a 1mm or .5 mm spacer behind the cassette to work correctly.

  12. #12
    Guadzilla JayC's Avatar
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    Did you install the spacer that's included with the cassette AND the Mavic one?

  13. #13
    Senior Member Dubbayoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayC
    Did you install the spacer that's included with the cassette AND the Mavic one?
    No, hence the reason I said I mixed them up. If they were both on the net width would still be the same....c'mon people! Dang!


    Quote Originally Posted by recneps
    almost all mavic or zipp wheels ive seen need either a 1mm or .5 mm spacer behind the cassette to work correctly.
    Actually it depends what cassette you mate it to.

  14. #14
    R3 richphoto's Avatar
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    I had to add more than the one that came with the shimano cassette when I added a set of SL's. At first I thought I must have dropped a hub spacer ring while changing it out.

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