Front Derailleur adjustment -- question about inner trigger and
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Front Derailleur adjustment -- question about inner trigger and
I got my front DA derailleur out of whack. It was already working properly but I wanted to see if I could make it better, and right now it's only gotten worse. The only adjustments I made were (1) lowered the cage a few mm, but then I put it back in its original position. (2) messed with the cable tension by undoing bolt and playing with cable tension.
PROBLEM: with bike on repair stand, I try to shift from larger to smaller chainwheel. I press the inner trigger, but now the inner trigger is alot harder to press. When it finally "goes", it makes a louder, more forceful popping sound than it used to before I messed with it. Do I add more tension (pull cable tighter and re-tighten bolt) or reduce tension?
I've already gone over Sheldon Brown thoroughly, so please don't post the link to that site.
Thanks
PROBLEM: with bike on repair stand, I try to shift from larger to smaller chainwheel. I press the inner trigger, but now the inner trigger is alot harder to press. When it finally "goes", it makes a louder, more forceful popping sound than it used to before I messed with it. Do I add more tension (pull cable tighter and re-tighten bolt) or reduce tension?
I've already gone over Sheldon Brown thoroughly, so please don't post the link to that site.
Thanks
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Strange, maybe try lubricating your pivots and cables with a bit of silicone spray. Or try taking the cable right out, spraying a cleaner in the jackets and then greasing the cable...
Strange that it would be good, until you tried adjusting it. It would seem putting it back should fix it unless grit or something is is binding it.
Strange that it would be good, until you tried adjusting it. It would seem putting it back should fix it unless grit or something is is binding it.
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Make sure the cable is seated properly in the shifter....
When you reattached the cable to the derailleur did you make sure the cable runs over the lip behind the screw...
Don't know if this will help...Just the first two things that popped into my head...
When you reattached the cable to the derailleur did you make sure the cable runs over the lip behind the screw...
Don't know if this will help...Just the first two things that popped into my head...
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Originally Posted by Hammertoe
Make sure the cable is seated properly in the shifter....
When you reattached the cable to the derailleur did you make sure the cable runs over the lip behind the screw...
Don't know if this will help...Just the first two things that popped into my head...
When you reattached the cable to the derailleur did you make sure the cable runs over the lip behind the screw...
Don't know if this will help...Just the first two things that popped into my head...
Hmmm...there was a little tab -- not sure if this is what you're calling the lip -- and then a slotted recess for the cable to sit in, where the slotted recess is at an angle when you route the cable behind the lip. I figure the lip is there to move the cable a few mm away from the tire....
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Originally Posted by Towlie
Hmmm...there was a little tab -- not sure if this is what you're calling the lip -- and then a slotted recess for the cable to sit in, where the slotted recess is at an angle when you route the cable behind the lip. I figure the lip is there to move the cable a few mm away from the tire....
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Keep the chain tight!
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^^^Yea, that's the picture I was looking for....
Don't know if that makes a difference for you problem...
Don't know if that makes a difference for you problem...
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Hmmm...I think we are definitely on to something here. Glad I posted.
II brought it into a local shop for a quick adjustment after my initial post, and they got it working OK, but I am not sure they did this leverage tab thingy right.
I'll study it a bit more and see if I can make out the distinction....
(EDIT: wait, I think I see now. Mine IS set up the wrong way. It's routed under that tab.)
II brought it into a local shop for a quick adjustment after my initial post, and they got it working OK, but I am not sure they did this leverage tab thingy right.
I'll study it a bit more and see if I can make out the distinction....
(EDIT: wait, I think I see now. Mine IS set up the wrong way. It's routed under that tab.)
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Originally Posted by Towlie
PROBLEM: with bike on repair stand, I try to shift from larger to smaller chainwheel. I press the inner trigger, but now the inner trigger is alot harder to press. When it finally "goes", it makes a louder, more forceful popping sound than it used to before I messed with it. Do I add more tension (pull cable tighter and re-tighten bolt) or reduce tension?
If you have the cable routed correctly (over the leverage tab) and you have the low limit adjusted so that when it's against the low limit (zero cable tension) there is just enough clearance for the chain in the smallest ring/biggest cog combo, the rest is just adjusting the high limit to allow the front shifter to have a full range of motion/cable pull for each click.