Are ceramic bb bearings all hype?
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Are ceramic bb bearings all hype?
Are ceramic ball bearing bottom brackets worth the extra expense? I don't know whether to believe the testimonials from pro riders paid to use them?
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If you have the money to spend... yes, otherwise, just train more.
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Analytically - At the bottom of the shopping list:
- How much of your power is lost in the bb? 3W? 1W? 0.5W?
- How many watts are dissipated by wearing cycling gloves, carrying 2 bottles not one, unzipping zersey 2" etc?
- How many watts could you gain by committing to do a training program on a regular basis?
- How many watts could you save by hiring an expert to help you riding round the velodrome in different postions and download your results on an SRM?
So unless your life means time <<<<< money, or you're about to represent your country, keep the money or spend it on things higher up the list.
- How much of your power is lost in the bb? 3W? 1W? 0.5W?
- How many watts are dissipated by wearing cycling gloves, carrying 2 bottles not one, unzipping zersey 2" etc?
- How many watts could you gain by committing to do a training program on a regular basis?
- How many watts could you save by hiring an expert to help you riding round the velodrome in different postions and download your results on an SRM?
So unless your life means time <<<<< money, or you're about to represent your country, keep the money or spend it on things higher up the list.
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Are they hype?
No - they do have a measurable benefit
Yes - it is a small benefit and very expensive (and internal, so they add no bling)
No - they do have a measurable benefit
Yes - it is a small benefit and very expensive (and internal, so they add no bling)
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Interesting. I'd like to hear more on this subject. Just got the most recent Excel catalog and on the back cover it has a number of ceramic bearing items for sale like for the DA bottom bracket and Kysyrium wheelset. Seems like bearings for the wheels would be the better of the two but I wonder if any out there have tried them yet.
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The practicality about the "efficiency" of ceramic is that first, you're talking about fractions of a watt. Second, at speed, the sheer force (read: torque) that's going through the bottom bracket is enough so that forward inertia/momentum compensates for any loss of power due to friction. In fact, I think most of the friction savings is due to the fluid the bearings are in, not so much the bearings themselves. Where it really matters is when riding slowly, i.e. during climbing, because any momentum is lost to gravity. Rasmussen is apparantly a ceramic fanatic which makes sense in that he specializes in climbing. He even went to ceramic bearings on his rear derailleur pulley wheels. As for durability, it's probably not as good as traditional bearings because as far as I know, the ceramic stuff isn't serviceable.
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all i know about ceramic balls is that they're as hard or harder than the equivalent steel ball and they're a lot lighter. i do not know if they would last longer running on steel races or if they're running on ceramic races.
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Originally Posted by headlessspider
all i know about ceramic balls is that they're as hard or harder than the equivalent steel ball and they're a lot lighter. i do not know if they would last longer running on steel races or if they're running on ceramic races.
#10
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Originally Posted by joshalope
The practicality about the "efficiency" of ceramic is that first, you're talking about fractions of a watt. Second, at speed, the sheer force (read: torque) that's going through the bottom bracket is enough so that forward inertia/momentum compensates for any loss of power due to friction. In fact, I think most of the friction savings is due to the fluid the bearings are in, not so much the bearings themselves. Where it really matters is when riding slowly, i.e. during climbing, because any momentum is lost to gravity. Rasmussen is apparantly a ceramic fanatic which makes sense in that he specializes in climbing. He even went to ceramic bearings on his rear derailleur pulley wheels. As for durability, it's probably not as good as traditional bearings because as far as I know, the ceramic stuff isn't serviceable.
Don't get me wrong -- it's still a very minor difference, but speed doesn't effect it like power and cadence do. I can't imagine anyone could perceive the difference on the bike.
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the original use was in machinery. They allow equipment to spin at higher RPMs than could with previous bearings. This I believe is mostly due to the lower weight. I think durability comes into play to, but I never read anything on the industrial side of things that led credit to how useful they may be in a bicycle. Perhaps someone could point out some more info on the subject.
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Originally Posted by joshalope
The whole point of ceramic bearings themselves, is that during the manufacturing process (which is long and expensive), they are able to make a bearing that is for all intents and purposes, perfectly spherical, as opposed to the dimensional imperfections of their steel counterparts.
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Velonews did some testing, which indicated the difference is under 1 watt. Admittedly, their test protocol left open room for quibbling.
The interesting aspect of the Velonews testing was that External bearing BB's have more friction than conventional internal BB's, and that you have to put ceramic bearings in the external BB's to get them close to the External BB's friction wise.
So the takeaway would be that the best way to decrease friction loss, (and keep money in your pocket) would be to run a conventional square taper, or ISIS BB with steel bearings.
The interesting aspect of the Velonews testing was that External bearing BB's have more friction than conventional internal BB's, and that you have to put ceramic bearings in the external BB's to get them close to the External BB's friction wise.
So the takeaway would be that the best way to decrease friction loss, (and keep money in your pocket) would be to run a conventional square taper, or ISIS BB with steel bearings.
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Originally Posted by NoRacer
Having heard/read all of the conjecture from past threads about this subject, I didn't expect much when I decided to upgrade my AC CR-420 hubs to ceramics. But, once I started riding with them, I couldn't believe how smooth they felt. It wasn't just placebo effect either, because the smoothness was felts weeks into the replacement.
Now, I have forgotten the difference. All I know is my long rides are now in the 100 mile range on the weekends and not 60 miles. I attribute this partially to the lack of fatigue from not having to pedal as much because I roll further and it takes less effort to spin the wheels up.
Now, I have forgotten the difference. All I know is my long rides are now in the 100 mile range on the weekends and not 60 miles. I attribute this partially to the lack of fatigue from not having to pedal as much because I roll further and it takes less effort to spin the wheels up.
When I saw none, I could only think of the words of John Mac Enroe: "you cannot be serious" Even if you took all the hype of FSA or Zipp, or any other ceramic bearing manufacturer as gospel, your talking about a couple of watts, and a MPH difference measured in hundredths not even tenths. It's even less difference than the rolling resistence difference between different clincher tire brands.
Your statement is like saying "when I road with Continental GP 4000's I could only ride 60 miles, but now with Michelin Pro Races they roll so much I easier I can do 100 miles." I'd suggest ther are othe factors at work.
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Originally Posted by NoRacer
Whatever. I'm riding them. You aren't.
Any data?
You cant possibly believe they reduce your effort 40%
I'm presuming you have at least one other set of wheels, without ceramic bearings. Are you claiming you can do a century with your good wheels, but only a metric with your other wheels?
Have you ever done a TT with the ceramic bearings and compared it to your time without ceramic bearings? My guess is there would be little or no difference (except maybe from the benefit of confidence.)
I just put Zipp 303 tubulars on my bike. They feel a lot faster, I'd like to say my sprint speed went up 2mph because they spin up so easy, and they do feel faster. If I didn't think about it analytically, read anything about it, or objectively measure it, I might be able to convince myself that it's true. But if you do look at it analytically, do measure it, it isn't true, and its not productive to claim things as true that are scientifically impossible, simply on the basis "I've ridden them".
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Originally Posted by dbduke
the original use was in machinery. They allow equipment to spin at higher RPMs than could with previous bearings. This I believe is mostly due to the lower weight. I think durability comes into play to, but I never read anything on the industrial side of things that led credit to how useful they may be in a bicycle. Perhaps someone could point out some more info on the subject.
Yes, they should last longer than standard bearings (cartridge & loose ball). But you can buy a crap load of replacement standard bearings for 1 set of ceramics.
#18
Making a kilometer blurry
Originally Posted by NoRacer
Whatever. I'm riding them. You aren't.
Some people feel the same way about clipless pedals.
Some people feel the same way about clipless pedals.
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I think waterocket's point, if I understand it correctly is that there is so little friction loss in a hub that will spin freely for 2-3 minutes, that even if you eliminated that friction completely it wouldn't be meaningful to bike performance.
So even if your hub would spin for hours, it just wouldn't make that much difference.
IIRC Velonews's testing put the gain from going to all ceramic bearings on the bike at less than a watt. 1 watt is not going to change your bike speed in any measurable sense, and it's certainly not going to increase your endurance 40%.
Zipp, who charges a boat load to sell some cat's ass silicon nitrate ceramic bearings, claims that their ceramic bearings save 0.8-1.0 watts, which they claim is 2-3 seconds over a 40k TT.
Now if Zipp, who get's about a $1,000 premium for it's Zed tech wheels, claims they're worth about 0.01 mph, what makes you think your American Classic bearings are a 40% improvement?
So even if your hub would spin for hours, it just wouldn't make that much difference.
IIRC Velonews's testing put the gain from going to all ceramic bearings on the bike at less than a watt. 1 watt is not going to change your bike speed in any measurable sense, and it's certainly not going to increase your endurance 40%.
Zipp, who charges a boat load to sell some cat's ass silicon nitrate ceramic bearings, claims that their ceramic bearings save 0.8-1.0 watts, which they claim is 2-3 seconds over a 40k TT.
Now if Zipp, who get's about a $1,000 premium for it's Zed tech wheels, claims they're worth about 0.01 mph, what makes you think your American Classic bearings are a 40% improvement?
Last edited by merlinextraligh; 03-27-07 at 09:07 AM.
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Ceramic bearings are "better" than steel bearings.
They will last longer and experience less friction.
They are much better at handling high speed and high temperature applications than steel bearings.
High speed and high temp - cycling is not.
Ceramics are so much more expensive than steel - if the prices were closer we wouldn't be talking about this....
The issue is not whether or not ceramics are better, but rather are they worth it for cycling applications. With regards to 99.9% of the riders my answer would be "no."
What would be more of a benefit would be if someone were to retrofit the existing external BB cups with better steel bearing cartridges. The ones in use utilize contact seals and heavy grease. This is due to the fact that they are meant for high speed motor applications...not cycling specific applications.
Anyone with an arbor press, some specific tools (available through Phil Wood for one), and a bearing catalog could make their own BB exhibit less friction while sticking with steel bearings. They wouldn't be sealed as well, but if you already have the tools then who cares. You could swap 10 sets before you would even be close to the price of ceramics.
Before I switched jobs I was thinking about doing this upgrade for people out of my home shop. Still might if all the marketing people stick with ceramics as the only upgrade.
Let's face it...cyclists are a bunch of consumers that will spend 20 hours searching the internet to save $20. They just refuse to pay $1 more for anything that they can't justify as "being worth it" performance wise. Talk about an untapped market for a "cheaper-than-ceramic" option......
They will last longer and experience less friction.
They are much better at handling high speed and high temperature applications than steel bearings.
High speed and high temp - cycling is not.
Ceramics are so much more expensive than steel - if the prices were closer we wouldn't be talking about this....
The issue is not whether or not ceramics are better, but rather are they worth it for cycling applications. With regards to 99.9% of the riders my answer would be "no."
What would be more of a benefit would be if someone were to retrofit the existing external BB cups with better steel bearing cartridges. The ones in use utilize contact seals and heavy grease. This is due to the fact that they are meant for high speed motor applications...not cycling specific applications.
Anyone with an arbor press, some specific tools (available through Phil Wood for one), and a bearing catalog could make their own BB exhibit less friction while sticking with steel bearings. They wouldn't be sealed as well, but if you already have the tools then who cares. You could swap 10 sets before you would even be close to the price of ceramics.
Before I switched jobs I was thinking about doing this upgrade for people out of my home shop. Still might if all the marketing people stick with ceramics as the only upgrade.
Let's face it...cyclists are a bunch of consumers that will spend 20 hours searching the internet to save $20. They just refuse to pay $1 more for anything that they can't justify as "being worth it" performance wise. Talk about an untapped market for a "cheaper-than-ceramic" option......
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Originally Posted by NoRacer
Yours takes 2-3 minutes? I'm assuming that you're just guessing and it might be more.
I made this after I switched to the ceramic bearings. This is the front hub spinning down. It took 8 minutes to get there (unloaded) just using my hand holding a spoke and pulling the wheel around as fast as I could. The cursor is at 1:13 (actual start) and it quits spinning (and recording the file) at about 9 minutes:
I made this after I switched to the ceramic bearings. This is the front hub spinning down. It took 8 minutes to get there (unloaded) just using my hand holding a spoke and pulling the wheel around as fast as I could. The cursor is at 1:13 (actual start) and it quits spinning (and recording the file) at about 9 minutes:
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The bottom line, to answer the OP's question, is that the cost:benefit ratio of ceramic bearings for a cycling application is ludicrous, and I'm not talking about ludicrous speed and going plaid.
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Originally Posted by NoRacer
The power is not true because the front end of the bike was prop'ed up at 45 degrees, so the iBike "thinks" it's doing 100 percent grade at about 12.5 MPH with 200 pounds of rider plus bike weight. It's nonsense, but that wasn't the point of the "experiment".
The speed seems to drop off to zero, but the wheel was still spinning which is the only way that the iBike will record data. If the wheel stops, the iBike goes to sleep.
The speed seems to drop off to zero, but the wheel was still spinning which is the only way that the iBike will record data. If the wheel stops, the iBike goes to sleep.
(Also, please don't think I'm chewing into you, it's pretty hard to convey inflection over the ol' interweb, no offense meant from my end)
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Have you tried the same experiment on a wheel with regular, non-ceramic bearings (but still high-quality) and then compared the data?
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Originally Posted by headlessspider
all i know about ceramic balls is that they're as hard or harder than the equivalent steel ball and they're a lot lighter. i do not know if they would last longer running on steel races or if they're running on ceramic races.
they are harder
they are rounder
they are lighter
they do not corrode
But guys who can't afford them will make up anything to dismiss them.