AroW

What would be a good natural step up to the trek 1000? Its pretty much my first road bike but I have been recommended to maybe step it up a bit the on the first bike so I dont have to upgrade. What do you think? Should I get the 1000 and upgrade a bit later or just get a slightly upper model like the 1200?

Budgetwise I will have to keep it under 750 most definitely, because it is already killing my college budget. Im not sure if I can even afford a road bike at this point ... If anybody in the nyc area is selling a trek or specialize road bike in my range please let me know as I can really use the break.

Bantam

Get the 1000 or used. The thing about road bikes is that you need shorts, a helmet, a jersey, a saddle bag and repair kit, pump, and those pedals and shoes look awfully nice after a while.

AroW

How is the specialized allez triple for 600, used for 500 miles, year old? How much do these run new?

varunku

They cost about $750 new
https://mikesbikes.com/itemdetails.cfm?ID=1086

Bantam

That sounds like way too much, depends on the groupset though. If it is Sora, then those go for 6-700 around here.

AroW

Hey, so is the trek 1200 worth the extra? Or is there more noticeable and worthwhile to go directly to the 1500 instead if I wanted to step it up a little bit? I dont really know if I should just get a 1000 and forget all this but I might regret it as I am only going to save up once and get this bike for the college cycling group or maybe train on my own first

nobrainer440

I got my allez new for $620 before tax.

I'd just go with the 1000 (or other entry level bike). Spend the rest of your money on clothes, bottels, tubes, patch kit, saddle bag, frame pump or co2, shoes, pedals, etc. If you get sick of the Sora shifters, upgrading to 105 parts from ebay is not too expensive.

AroW

Hey if I get a trek 1000 are there any recommended immediate upgrades that wont cost me an arm and leg such as clipless pedals, etc?

CardiacKid

I don't think you are getting much extra with the 1200, unless you have a problem with the Sora shifters. Some people don't like the way the Sora's shift from the drops. I would either go with the 1000 or the 1500 if you can afford it. Everyone seems to have the 1500 on sale for under $1000 right now.
I am 90% certain you will want to change out the saddle on either one.

ManBearPig

Man, I would go used. While in college, think used -- used car, old apartment, used (vintage) clothes. I imagine you could easily find a used 2100 for $300-600. Even a well cared for bike with 5000 miles is still relatively new, and you will get better components. I would rather have a used bike with Shimano 105 or better than a brand new bike with lesser components. Just be sure you get the right size to begin with.

pityr

Definitely swap out the saddle, the stock one sucks. You also get the 105 rd/tiagra fd and brifters. It was worth the upgrade when I bought my 1200 during a spring sale.

alanbikehouston

In the $600 to $900 price range, the functional differences between road bikes from the four or five leading companies (such as Trek, Specialized, Giant) are very subtle, and often close to non-existent. The key difference in how much you will enjoy a bike in that price range is the quality of the SHOP that you buy from.

A $700 road bike from a top quality shop is simply a far better road bike than a $1,000 road bike from an average shop, and better than a $1,400 bike from a "discount" vendor.

Why? The keys to enjoying a road bike are how well the bike is assembled and tuned. A $700 road bike with wheels that are perfectly round and perfectly true, precise and quick shifting, and perfectly adjusted brakes is a joy to ride. A poorly assembled and tuned $1,400 is a pain to ride, and will quickly end up stored in the back of your garage.

Spend some time at the four or five closest bike shops to where you live. Ask questions. Watch and listen to how the folks at the shop treat you, and how they treat both their new and old customers. Buy your bike from the shop that clearly is putting the highest priority on customer service.

If you decide to buy the Trek 1000, you will have a bike that is functionally 95% or so of the bike that you would get for twice the money, except for one thing: the wheels and tires.

By far, the biggest difference between the "best" $700 bikes, such as the Trek 1000, and the "best" $1,400 bikes are the wheels and tires. If you buy the Trek 1000, and you later decide to race (something 99% of Bike Forum members talk about, and something that 1% of Bike Forum members actually obtain a license for, and participate in) you can substantially upgrade your bike by spending about $300 or so on a pair of "race quality" wheels and tires. You could then use the original wheels and tires for your training rides and everyday riding, and use your "race" wheels for the days you need to ride a bit faster.

Although Bike Forum members love to debate "Bike A" versus "Bike B", the decals on your bike are not really that important. The key to enjoying a bike is to buy from the best possible quality of dealer, and then ride as much as possible. Spending lots of money won't make you a better rider, a faster rider, nor will it make riding more enjoyable.

AroW

Thats what I was thinking. Also, I figure there wont be a difference in terms of weight for the 1500 vs 1000.

alanbikehouston

Most folks, regardless of the price of their bike, have a "favorite" saddle, so replacing the saddle is often done before the bike leaves the shop.

Pedals are a personal choice. I prefer BMX style pedals on my road bikes, because they make it easy to ride with any sort of shoes, including dress shoes, hiking boots, tennis shoes, sandals, whatever. If you must use the clip-in type pedals, a mountain-bike model is often the best way to go. A good pair can be had for less than $50, and they work with shoes that are far more "walkable" then the typical roadie shoes. Mountain bike pedals are designed to work well even when muddy or dirty, and have reliable release mechanisms.

Roadie pedals, like so much stuff sold to roadies, are copies, of various quality levels, of pro race equipment, sold to people who won't ever have a racing license. Race-style equipment that may be ideal for a pro racer is often the worst possible choice for someone riding for fitness, recreation, or to get to work or school.

AroW

Is there a weight difference between the 1000 and 1200 or 1500? What is the main difference between the two?

gobes

For 2007 the 1200 no longer exists. It used to be that the 1000 and 1200 had the same frame while the 1200 had a step up in components. So the 1200 would be lighter due to the components.

The 1500 uses different tubing and has better components. So it will be lighter than the 1000 or 1200. In the past the 1500 didn't have eyelets to mount a rear rack but it appears that the 2007 model has the eyelets. (If that kind of thing is important to you.)

recursive

I would like to register strong disagreement on this point.

The "reliable" release mechanism on my shimano SPD pedals (with genuine shimano cleats no less) cost me my spleen. And that's not the only issue I've had with them releasing.

I've never had a single issue with the release on my Look pedals. Ever.

Also, plenty of roadie pedals are sold to people with racing licenses. Maybe not most, but a good portion, I'm sure.

Portis

The Trek 1000 is your only option in the Trek line.

AroW

Im going to suck it up and keep the limit at 900